Installing Bluetooth Car Kit in TSX - Philly region installation recommendations?
Installing Bluetooth Car Kit in TSX - Philly region installation recommendations?
I just ordered the Motorola BLNC IHF1000 bluetooth car kit. Looks to be of similar features and functionality as the OEM kit for the TL, which makes me happy. 
I guess I could install it myself, but I've never installed something in a car before, so I'm hesitant. I'm looking for a local installer who is going to care about my brand new TSX, and not scratch or mark up anything in the process.
Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Jon

I guess I could install it myself, but I've never installed something in a car before, so I'm hesitant. I'm looking for a local installer who is going to care about my brand new TSX, and not scratch or mark up anything in the process.
Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Jon
Wherever you get it done, ask them if they are going to tape up the interior around the center storage area. They will mostly like have to take that area out, and it can get scratched if they don't do it right.
Actually if you want to be sure they don't scratch it. Go buy some blue painters tape. The 7 day no residue stuff and tape everything up yourself before you bring it in.
When I got some install stuff done, I assumed that would tape everything up and of course they didn't. I wished I taped it up myself before I brought it in because they scratched up some of trim and interior. The car had like 500 miles, it sucked.
Actually if you want to be sure they don't scratch it. Go buy some blue painters tape. The 7 day no residue stuff and tape everything up yourself before you bring it in.
When I got some install stuff done, I assumed that would tape everything up and of course they didn't. I wished I taped it up myself before I brought it in because they scratched up some of trim and interior. The car had like 500 miles, it sucked.
Tsx536- thanks for the tip!
TSXsurf -
I paid retail for the kit -- $299. Directly from Motorola.com. A bit steep for a BT car kit, but I also think it's a step above the rest in features, design, and compatibility.
You can see details and purchase from here:
http://www.motorola.com/automotive/solution_blnc.html
I've been waiting for them to release this for over a month now, so the first day it was available, I bought it. I'd assume sites like expansys.com will have it discounted later this year (in the $260 range).
What really got me interested in this unit is how it essentially mimmicks the functionality of the OEM bluetooth kit built into the TL. But it even does more than the TL's kit.
Atop of all this, this is Moto's 2nd generation car kit, so they've learned from their first attempt (which, from what I read, was a good unit as it is) and improved the user experience, compatibility, and design.
The outstanding questions that remain to be answered include:
- How will it work with non-Moto phones? (my guess: well - I plan on pairing it with a Nokia 6230)
- How will it look installed in the TSX? (my guess: well, since it matches my ebony interior)
- Can I hook it into my TSX stereo? (elduderino says 'not worth it')
- Can I hook it into my TSX stereo mute? (elduderino says 'possible')
- Where will I install it? (my plan: mic hidden up in the rv mirror area, control unit on the front side of the center storage bin/arm rest, where I can easily reach it but not be forced to stare at it)
TSXsurf -
I paid retail for the kit -- $299. Directly from Motorola.com. A bit steep for a BT car kit, but I also think it's a step above the rest in features, design, and compatibility.
You can see details and purchase from here:
http://www.motorola.com/automotive/solution_blnc.html
I've been waiting for them to release this for over a month now, so the first day it was available, I bought it. I'd assume sites like expansys.com will have it discounted later this year (in the $260 range).
What really got me interested in this unit is how it essentially mimmicks the functionality of the OEM bluetooth kit built into the TL. But it even does more than the TL's kit.
Atop of all this, this is Moto's 2nd generation car kit, so they've learned from their first attempt (which, from what I read, was a good unit as it is) and improved the user experience, compatibility, and design.
The outstanding questions that remain to be answered include:
- How will it work with non-Moto phones? (my guess: well - I plan on pairing it with a Nokia 6230)
- How will it look installed in the TSX? (my guess: well, since it matches my ebony interior)
- Can I hook it into my TSX stereo? (elduderino says 'not worth it')
- Can I hook it into my TSX stereo mute? (elduderino says 'possible')
- Where will I install it? (my plan: mic hidden up in the rv mirror area, control unit on the front side of the center storage bin/arm rest, where I can easily reach it but not be forced to stare at it)
I bought mine at this site (http://www.expansys-usa.com/product.asp?code=HFW8000) two yrs ago and installed it myself. It works flawlessly. It has all the functions of the bluetooth in the TL and also can store name and numbers. The one in the TL can only connect and dial numbers on the phone. I can tell you that installation is very easy, the only difficult part is where to place the speaker. I hide it behind the center console.
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Technically that could work, even though it's the "wrong" way. A better way is to get some silicone hot glue and a glue gun, insert the wire, and hot glue it into place (if it's big enough, I would insert something like a paper clip section and crimp/solder onto it.)
I really need to go down to the Acura dealer and see if I can get some of these.
Technically that could work, even though it's the "wrong" way. A better way is to get some silicone hot glue and a glue gun, insert the wire, and hot glue it into place (if it's big enough, I would insert something like a paper clip section and crimp/solder onto it.)
I really need to go down to the Acura dealer and see if I can get some of these.
Originally Posted by JonDeutsch
Ah. That's good news. Where did you install the control unit? And, did you get it to mute your stereo?
That was on my wife's 01 civic, the Kenwood X869 HU doesn't has mute input. What I have used is a couple of relays on the speaker output and the mute wire from the bluetooth unit triggers the relay. It works fine without any problems. The sound and microphone quality is way better than the TL I have now.
To mute the stereo, you probably used the relay to break the ACC line. YOu would need 4 relays to mute the four speakers coming out of the head unit, and more on a TSX.
But then again, if you didn't get the mute pin to work, you could use 1 relay to break the RTO wire to the amp...
But then again, if you didn't get the mute pin to work, you could use 1 relay to break the RTO wire to the amp...
OK, I have to admit, I don't know any of these abbreviations. Maybe someone can publish a glossary so the pros can continue to abbreviate, and newbees to EE like me can just look 'em up instead of asking people to explain themselves.
In any case, what's an ACC and an RTO?
Thanks for the info in this thread, though. I'm thinking that muting the stereo now seems plausible and feasible. My only concern is the polarity and/or current issue. If that comes up, hopefully the installer can improvise a solution. I'll be sure to print out some of the comments posted on this forum to give him a head-start!
Jon
In any case, what's an ACC and an RTO?
Thanks for the info in this thread, though. I'm thinking that muting the stereo now seems plausible and feasible. My only concern is the polarity and/or current issue. If that comes up, hopefully the installer can improvise a solution. I'll be sure to print out some of the comments posted on this forum to give him a head-start!
Jon
Originally Posted by elduderino
To mute the stereo, you probably used the relay to break the ACC line. YOu would need 4 relays to mute the four speakers coming out of the head unit, and more on a TSX.
But then again, if you didn't get the mute pin to work, you could use 1 relay to break the RTO wire to the amp...
But then again, if you didn't get the mute pin to work, you could use 1 relay to break the RTO wire to the amp...
I'd like to test out my BT kit before it's installed. The instructions state to power the kit via a 5A fuse in the car's fuse panel to avoid damage. Do I have to do this for the test, or can I safely hook it right up to the battery?
Also, it says for the mute wire that an "optional relay may be required." But it does not say which polarity it is, or what power it's sending out. So, I guess I won't know until I try.
Jon
Also, it says for the mute wire that an "optional relay may be required." But it does not say which polarity it is, or what power it's sending out. So, I guess I won't know until I try.
Jon
ACC= accessory, switched 12V. BAT = constant 12V.
RTO is remote turn on, a 12V + output from the head unit that turns on the amp.
You can touch it to the terminals for testing.
The optional relay is for muting. I believe that the standard in EU is for 12V+, so what I would do is test the output with a test light or a voltmeter when you aretesting the BT kit.
RTO is remote turn on, a 12V + output from the head unit that turns on the amp.
You can touch it to the terminals for testing.
The optional relay is for muting. I believe that the standard in EU is for 12V+, so what I would do is test the output with a test light or a voltmeter when you aretesting the BT kit.
Originally Posted by JonDeutsch
I'd like to test out my BT kit before it's installed. The instructions state to power the kit via a 5A fuse in the car's fuse panel to avoid damage. Do I have to do this for the test, or can I safely hook it right up to the battery?
Also, it says for the mute wire that an "optional relay may be required." But it does not say which polarity it is, or what power it's sending out. So, I guess I won't know until I try.
Jon
Also, it says for the mute wire that an "optional relay may be required." But it does not say which polarity it is, or what power it's sending out. So, I guess I won't know until I try.
Jon
You don't need to connect to your car to test the bluetooth kit. The way I test my car electronics by using an AC adapter with a 12v dc output. Just connect both the ACC and +12 volt to the positive output and GND to the negative output.
I was attempting to get the HCE-16 module to work with my stereo, but then I put in the speaker to see how it sounded. To tell you the truth it worked great, so much so that I forgot about even trying to get it through the stereo. I will do that when someone else has it figured out.
Originally Posted by TrashCan
You don't need to connect to your car to test the bluetooth kit. The way I test my car electronics by using an AC adapter with a 12v dc output. Just connect both the ACC and +12 volt to the positive output and GND to the negative output.
Why doesn't it work with the speaker
So .. why can't we hook up this kit to the TSX's speakers? Or rather .. why is it not worth it .. any idea how much a shop would charge to put this thing in?
The TSX HU has an amp connected to a speaker.
The BT HF kit has an internal amp and a two-wire amplified output for a speaker.
It also has an output (the "mute" output) which is active during a HF call.
The way you use the TSX speaker is you use two relays, which are triggered by the Mute OP, and you physically disconnect the speaker (probably the pass front) from the TSX OEM amp whenever a call is in progress, and you temporarily connect it to the BT HF kit speaker output. Then the sound comes from the OEM speaker.
At the same time the BT Mute OP has to be triggering a relay that breaks the remote turn on signal from the HU to the amp, to mute the stereo (if the mute input at the radio is not used, which is preferable, of course).
If you have an upgraded speaker system and upgraded amp, I wouldn't insert relays in the speaker line - the higher power would eventually cause problems with their internal contacts, and you don't want to have the tiny HF kit amp chip trying to push through an aftermarket speaker outboard crossover circuit. I would rather hide the BT HF kit's speaker.
As far as what a shop would charge, someone like Peter's Auto Radio or that one Alpine dealer on Van Ness across from the Holiday Inn - that's who I would ask...
The BT HF kit has an internal amp and a two-wire amplified output for a speaker.
It also has an output (the "mute" output) which is active during a HF call.
The way you use the TSX speaker is you use two relays, which are triggered by the Mute OP, and you physically disconnect the speaker (probably the pass front) from the TSX OEM amp whenever a call is in progress, and you temporarily connect it to the BT HF kit speaker output. Then the sound comes from the OEM speaker.
At the same time the BT Mute OP has to be triggering a relay that breaks the remote turn on signal from the HU to the amp, to mute the stereo (if the mute input at the radio is not used, which is preferable, of course).
If you have an upgraded speaker system and upgraded amp, I wouldn't insert relays in the speaker line - the higher power would eventually cause problems with their internal contacts, and you don't want to have the tiny HF kit amp chip trying to push through an aftermarket speaker outboard crossover circuit. I would rather hide the BT HF kit's speaker.
As far as what a shop would charge, someone like Peter's Auto Radio or that one Alpine dealer on Van Ness across from the Holiday Inn - that's who I would ask...
My BLNC IHF1000 arrived. But, as it turns out, I've been knocked out by the flu, so it'll be a couple more days before I get things moving on that front.
My plans:
- Hook up BLNC kit using AC adapter at home
- Test BLNC with Nokia 6230 to make sure they're compatible *enough*
- If BLNC and 6230 don't play nice, then return 6230 with Moto V551 or RAZR V3
- Locate talented local installation shop (wish me luck)
- Have them install the control unit on the front side of my arm rest, so that it really won't be seen, but I can easily reach and press one of the 5 buttons.
- Have them install the shipped speaker up out of sight behind the dash somewhere
- Try to get the mic installed where the NAVI mic is (guys -- do you think this is possible?). If I can't get it in that compartment, then try to install it in the rear-view mirror area in such a way that it does not look aftermarket. (guys - any better ideas here?)
- Hook mute line to pin 14 in HU harness to mute the stereo when calls come in
- If mute polarity is reversed, then have the installer install the requisite relays
Any thoughts on my plans?
Thanks,
Jon
My plans:
- Hook up BLNC kit using AC adapter at home
- Test BLNC with Nokia 6230 to make sure they're compatible *enough*
- If BLNC and 6230 don't play nice, then return 6230 with Moto V551 or RAZR V3
- Locate talented local installation shop (wish me luck)
- Have them install the control unit on the front side of my arm rest, so that it really won't be seen, but I can easily reach and press one of the 5 buttons.
- Have them install the shipped speaker up out of sight behind the dash somewhere
- Try to get the mic installed where the NAVI mic is (guys -- do you think this is possible?). If I can't get it in that compartment, then try to install it in the rear-view mirror area in such a way that it does not look aftermarket. (guys - any better ideas here?)
- Hook mute line to pin 14 in HU harness to mute the stereo when calls come in
- If mute polarity is reversed, then have the installer install the requisite relays
Any thoughts on my plans?
Thanks,
Jon
Ahhh, a very interesting idea! Unfortunately, I'm not one who can make a mount. Maybe it'll fit in the NAA all nice and snug without a custom mount.
On a related note, it was very nice of Acura to utterly undefine an area of the car (i.e., not an ashtray) just so that we could all define it in our own personal ways.
How zen of them.
On a related note, it was very nice of Acura to utterly undefine an area of the car (i.e., not an ashtray) just so that we could all define it in our own personal ways.
How zen of them.
Originally Posted by JonDeutsch
Ahhh, a very interesting idea! Unfortunately, I'm not one who can make a mount. Maybe it'll fit in the NAA all nice and snug without a custom mount.
On a related note, it was very nice of Acura to utterly undefine an area of the car (i.e., not an ashtray) just so that we could all define it in our own personal ways.
How zen of them.
On a related note, it was very nice of Acura to utterly undefine an area of the car (i.e., not an ashtray) just so that we could all define it in our own personal ways.
How zen of them.
You'd probably have to have had come from an Acura Integra to get this joke, but...
Sometimes, I think they should have labeled the VOL UP/DOWN buttons on the steering wheel "NOT A HORN"
Because boy do I turn up the volume on my stereo whenever I want to honk at someone!
For those who never were lucky enough to own an Integra,
, the Integra's horn buttons were developed before they could integrate them with the airbag, so they were on the sides of the steering wheel, not in the center. It took me 5 years to get used to this unique placement on the Integra. Now I have to re-adjust all over again.
Sometimes, I think they should have labeled the VOL UP/DOWN buttons on the steering wheel "NOT A HORN"
Because boy do I turn up the volume on my stereo whenever I want to honk at someone!
For those who never were lucky enough to own an Integra,
, the Integra's horn buttons were developed before they could integrate them with the airbag, so they were on the sides of the steering wheel, not in the center. It took me 5 years to get used to this unique placement on the Integra. Now I have to re-adjust all over again.
OK, my BLNC kit is home. It requires a 5-9A power lead, ground lead, and ignition lead.
If I want to test this in my house, what do I hook up to the ignition lead? The manual doesn't state what it's looking for.
Also, if I want to do this in my car, is there a diagram that shows the wiring and what's what?
Any info appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon
If I want to test this in my house, what do I hook up to the ignition lead? The manual doesn't state what it's looking for.
Also, if I want to do this in my car, is there a diagram that shows the wiring and what's what?
Any info appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon
OK, got the testbed working. Just combined the ingition line with the power line into 12V.
Everything seems a "GO" from my tests. My Nokia 6230 seems to work fine with the Moto BLNC. The BLNC is pretty impressive in its voice recognition from my limited tests.
One of my favorite features is that it says the caller ID (number) when someone calls. This feature suitably replaces the TL's HandsFreeLink callerID LCD in the dash cluster.
In addition to the TL's HFL, the BLNC not only lets you set upto 20 internal contacts, but lets you tap your phone's voice tags as well. This is a very handy feature. If you run out of internal contacts, you just use your phone's... and, if your phone number is complex and requires "pauses", you would use your phone's phonebook to manage that complexity, since HFL and BLNC do not support pausing from what I've read.
With the BLNC IHF1000, your calling options are:
(... = BLNC confirmation sequence)
"Call <BLNC Voice Tag> ..." (ie., "Call Elduderino")
"Phone Voice Tag ... <Phone Voice Tag> ..." (ie., "Phone Voice Tag..."Elduderino")
"Dial ... 6135556834 ..."
"Dial ... 613 ... 555 ... 6843 ..." (lets you send groups of numbers at a time)
When I get it installed, I'll follow-up with a full review.
Jon
Everything seems a "GO" from my tests. My Nokia 6230 seems to work fine with the Moto BLNC. The BLNC is pretty impressive in its voice recognition from my limited tests.
One of my favorite features is that it says the caller ID (number) when someone calls. This feature suitably replaces the TL's HandsFreeLink callerID LCD in the dash cluster.
In addition to the TL's HFL, the BLNC not only lets you set upto 20 internal contacts, but lets you tap your phone's voice tags as well. This is a very handy feature. If you run out of internal contacts, you just use your phone's... and, if your phone number is complex and requires "pauses", you would use your phone's phonebook to manage that complexity, since HFL and BLNC do not support pausing from what I've read.
With the BLNC IHF1000, your calling options are:
(... = BLNC confirmation sequence)
"Call <BLNC Voice Tag> ..." (ie., "Call Elduderino")
"Phone Voice Tag ... <Phone Voice Tag> ..." (ie., "Phone Voice Tag..."Elduderino")
"Dial ... 6135556834 ..."
"Dial ... 613 ... 555 ... 6843 ..." (lets you send groups of numbers at a time)
When I get it installed, I'll follow-up with a full review.
Jon
hmm.. interesting.. so when someone calls and say the name is joe on your phone and the # is
1-714-554-6666
the bluetooth unit would say" one - seven one four... <etc>"? Or can it actually attempt to read the name off the caller id you have on your phone?
1-714-554-6666
the bluetooth unit would say" one - seven one four... <etc>"? Or can it actually attempt to read the name off the caller id you have on your phone?
For the sake of people who don't read the other thread, yes, the BLNC reads out the caller ID numbers when someone calls. It effectively minimizes the need for an LCD screen for a bluetooth car kit.
Well, in comparison, even the built-in HandsFreeLink that the TL has only displays the numbers... no text. I think Parrot may have a car kit that displays text, but the display is butt-ugly, IMHO.
Have you seen the Raytel 4000 display? Looks like it might be pretty cool in a TSX...
http://www.raytel-llc.com/TellPhone4000Blue_index.html
http://www.raytel-llc.com/TellPhone4000Blue_index.html
Originally Posted by elduderino
Have you seen the Raytel 4000 display? Looks like it might be pretty cool in a TSX...
http://www.raytel-llc.com/TellPhone4000Blue_index.html

http://www.raytel-llc.com/TellPhone4000Blue_index.html


Originally Posted by elduderino
Oh, that's OFFW pricing... I am working on getting a hookup.
I just read the user manual, and it seems to operate very similarly to the BLNC IHF1000. So similar, that it seems that they may share some of the core technology.
The main difference is, obviously, the integrated display, which is nice for caller ID names. I'm not sure this is worth an extra $300 for me. But it probably would be worth another $75.
I'm kind of surprised that someone hasn't made a battery-operated, bluetooth caller ID LCD display that works with all car kits without LCD displays.
The main difference is, obviously, the integrated display, which is nice for caller ID names. I'm not sure this is worth an extra $300 for me. But it probably would be worth another $75.
I'm kind of surprised that someone hasn't made a battery-operated, bluetooth caller ID LCD display that works with all car kits without LCD displays.



