ResidualFreedom

Subwoofer Instalation Project


I have installed my sub and I am blowing fuses, I will walk through what I did and maby something will stand out.

-first the back seats were taken out

-then tapped on to the orange wire for a remote (did not cut the orange wire just tapped on to it) and ran the remote to the amp.

-cut the BLU/GRN (+) wire and attached it to (+)wires on line adapter (converts to RCA).

-cut the ORN/BLU (-) wire and attached it to (-) wires in line adapter.

- tapped on to ground wire (black) (did not cut) and ran it to the ground on the line adapter.

- Ran a 0 or 1 awg(gauge) from the Battery to an in-line fuse (50A fuse).

- 0 or 1 awg from the in-line fuse (in engine area) to fuse distrubution block(35A fuse) in trunk .

- 0 or 1 awg from the fuse distro block to the amp.

- THIS IS WHERE IT MIGHT BE INCORRECT, I THINK. I grinded away the paint in a 2"x 2" square below the carpet in the trunk by the spare tire. I then drilled a small hole through the bottom of the trunk and bolted my 0 or 1 awg ground wire to the bottom of the trunk. ( I know the ground will not work if the paint is not scratched off ). I will cover the screw from both sides with silicone so I won't get any leaking.

- the ground runs to a ground distrubution block and then to the amp.

- the RCA cables are plugged from the line adapter to the amp.

- the speaker (sub cables) are going from the amp ( installed correctly, not touching and in the correct order (+)(-).

- the gains and dials from the amp are turned down.

- volume on stereo is down.

When I turned the car on and the music comes on the 35A fuse in the trunk fuse distro block blows.

-the power obviously works (fuse blows - has to get power from somewhere)
- the remote works, or the amp would not attempt to turn on, blowing the fuse. (I think)

-I think the ground may be the problem

I thank all of you for reading and I hope someone can give me a few suggestions( I usually know my way around a stereo pretty well, I just need some trouble shooting tips, I have tried a few)


Thanks again

hellas

why do you have a dist block if you only have one amp?
why do you have 2 fuses?

get rid of the dist block in the trunk, leaving only the 50a fuse under the hood, and see what happens

why such thick wire? what kind of amp?

ResidualFreedom

A Concept Class D 1200Watt amp, this amp really kicks a**, I haven't seen an amp that I would say could beat it in SQ or SPL. and I have a fuse distro there b/c I am going to install the rest of the system after I get the face plate for an aftermarket deck. Audio Control 5.1 - Line Driver, Cap, 4-channel amp for the highs. I know I don't need them but I figured it wouldn't really matter. I checked the ground with a voltage meter and the ground in the trunk is good. I can get a reading at the power side of the fuse distro block, and the ground on the amp, so the ground is good, and the power is almost at the amp. I am kind of weary of attaching it directly to the amp. but I really think I have checked the system over and over. I might just take out the fuse distro but that couldn't be it. any more ideas will be extreamly helpful.

hellas

does the amp have a built in fuse? if so, what amperage

ResidualFreedom

the Amp has 3 30 Amp fuses and I was using 50 amp fuses, in both the in-line fuse and in the distro block. I think that is my problem. I'm going to grab 100 amp fuses tomorrow and see if that works. I thought the amp would only attempt to pull 90 Amps if it was turned up. I know amps usually hold a charge when they are disconnected from a system. I assume the amp was trying to "fill-up/power-up" itself and pulled over 50 amps even though the RCA cables are not connected.

Any Comments? Do You Think That's The Problem?

hellas

sounds like thats your problem. if the amp wants 90 and your only giving it 35A (dist block) it'll blow. put 2 100A fuses.
let me know if you get it working

ResidualFreedom

I think I have a problem with my AMP. It is going back to get fixed.

My 1200watt Amp was blowing the fuses before. So I uped it to 2 80A fuses (I couldn't find any glass 100A fuses). the fuses held but all three 30A fuses in the amp blew. I by passed the remote at this point so I know the remote has enough power.

Don't worry I have a back up and my amp has a three year warranty so I can send it back for a brand new one. My back up amp was/will be used when I get new door speakers and and extra sub for replacement of the stock one. I have a PPI 5440 it is a 5 channel amp so I am only using the sub channel for my 12" sub as temp untill I get my main sub back.

My origional problem I figured out, the remote was showing 12v but when I attached it to the amp, it dropped to 3v and was not enough to turn the amp on. The amp would go into protection mode.I was able to get my back up amp running when I ran a new remote.

The back up amp actually sounds really good, and alot better than I thought it would. I origionally used my 5 channel for 4 x MBQuart 3.5" in the dash and the rear. I used the sub channel to run my 6" Phoenix Gold components in my doors in my old s-10 ss.

I would highly reccomend to everyone, to do what I did with regards to wiring my system. I pulled a wire as a remote when I installed my PWR cable. I tried to use the remote wire at the stock amp like everyone else did, obviously without it working for me. But when I decided to go with a remote from the fuse panel the wire was already there. I didn't have to run another and if the remote from the stock amp did work, no harm done, no time lost.

I will keep you up dated on the 1200watt amp I can't wait to hear it in this car.

hellas

sounds good. hopefully it'll work out.

my remote wire is turning on my changer, 2 amps, and factory amp. i used a relay, and one of the power wires from the factory amp to make it work

ResidualFreedom

I also used a relay but it still didn't work.

- I had 12v at the remote
- Then I connected a 3 inch piece of wire and attached it to the relay
- when I did that the voltage dropped lower than 3 volts and it wasn't able to activate the relay. We couldn't understand it, the gound and the power at the relay was good, all the wires were onnected right, but the voltage dropped. Trust me it was frustrating testing wires and then connecting them and getting a different reading.
- I just ran a remote from the fuse panel to the relay. ( I didn't up the stock fuse in the panel so I figured the least power I am taking from the stock system the better.

hellas

i had the same prob. i found a super small relay, meant for PC's i think

RandyB

Hey guys, how can i get to the third fuse box bc my display along with my gear lights not on. the fuse under the steering wheel n under the hood is perfect but how can i find the third fuse box. manual said under the dash but where exactly is it, is it behind the stereo. help needed

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

try the "small light" fuse in the fuse box under the hood.