Waynester

My apologies first. As this is a long thread. ANy help you can provide I would really appreciate it.

I am truly stumped!!!!

I have a 2006 TSX AT. I’ve installed a Viper 160XVL Remote starter and an idatalink ADS-DLSL-HA bypass module. When I lock the car with the Viper remote, the factory alarm is armed. I wait 15 sec or so, and click the Viper remote to remote start. As soon as the starter engages the factory alarm starts to sound (loud horn). I have to press on the brake and click the OEM remote “unlock” for the alarm to turn off. However, If I don’t lock the car - not engaging the factory alarm - I can remote start the vehicle just fine.

In short, when the alarm is set I cannot use the remote start cause it will cause the OEM alarm to sound.

I thought I would share how I've connected everything together. Maybe I have something connected wrong that someone can point out.


Below are my connections:

VIPER RELAY SATTELITE MODULE:

*Purple starter wire - Blk/ylw Starter Side
*Green Key side starter wire - Blk/Ylw Key side
*(2)Red 12V Constant input - White (Battery on car)
*Orange accessory output - White red(ACC on Car)
*Pink/White 2nd ign - Blk/Red (Ignition 2 on car)
*Pink Ignition output - Blk/Ylw (Ignition 1 on car)
*Red/White 12V constant - NOT USING THIS ONE AT ALL. Removed the 30 amp fuse and taped up.
*Blue (-) status input to IDATALINK Blue/white “ground out when running”
*Orange (-) 200mA 2nd ACC output (NOT USING)
*Violet (-) 200mA starter output (NOT USING)
*Pink (-) 200mA 3rd ignition output (NOT USING)
*Relay Satellite Ribbon Harness is connected to Viper

VIPER MODULE

*Green Door Lock - IDATALINK lock (-) Grn/Blk
*Blue Door Unlock - IDATALINK unlock (-) Blue/Blk

H1-PLUG
*Red/White (-) 200mA channel 2 output - IDATALINK Trunk (-) input Red/White
*Red 12V Constant input - Red 12V Constant input above in Viper Relay Module
*Brn(-) Horn Honk output - Not connected yet - will connect w/ a relay to brown connector under steering wheel
*Black ground connected with IDATALINK “ground black” and black/white “neutral safety” input from H3, all three connected to the same ground point on the car.
*Violet (NOT USED)
*Blue (-) 2nd unlock output (NOT USING)
*Green (NOT USED)
*Black/White (-) 200mA dome light (NOT USING)
*White/Blue(-) activation input (NOT USING)
*White (+/-) parking light output ŕ to
*Orange ground when armed output (NOT SUING)

H2- PLUG
**I did not use this connector at all since the IDATALINK handles alarm arm/disarm
*Light green/Black (-) Fatory alarm disarm
*Gray/Black (-) wait to start input
*Green/white (-) Factory alarm rearm
*Violet/Black (-) 200mA channel 4 output

H3-PLUG
*Black White neutral safety - paired with IDATALINK ground wire and ground from H1 and grounded to car at same location.
*Violet/White tach input - IDATALINK tach output Purple/White
*Brown (+) brake shutdown input - White/Blk on switch above brake pedal
*Gray (-) Hoodpin shutdown input - IDATALINK Yellow Hood (-) output
*Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd status/defogger - Not connected yet, will be connecting with a relay.

IDATALINK MODULE

*Ground out when running Blue White - Blue (-) status output on Viper Relay Satellite
*Ground black - Connected to H1 ground and H3 Neutral Safety input and grounded at same location
*12V Red - to (2) red 12V constant input on Relay Satellite module
*Lock (-) input Grn/Blk - Green on Viper Main Module
*Unlock (-) input Blu/Blk - Blue on Viper Main Module
*Trunk (-) input Red/White - Red/White (-) 200mA channel 2 output
*Left Sliding Door (-) input Purp/Ylw (NOT USING)
* Left Sliding Door (-) input Red/White (NOT USING)
*Starter input Blk/white - Purple starter wire on Viper Relay Satellite
*Door/Trunk Status (-) output Green (NOT USING)
*Tach Output Purple/White - H3 Violet/White tach input
*Wht/Blk Security light input - Cut Orange #5 pin (Key Side) of Immobilizer 7 pin connector by ignition
*White/Red Security light output - Cut Orange #5 pin (front of car side) of Immobilizer 7 pin connector by ignition
*Yellow Hood (-) Output - H3 Gray (-) hood pin shut down
*Orange/Black Key Data - Red #2 pin Immobilizer 7 pin connector by ignition
*Orange Door lock Data - #4 Brown/Red 21 pin connector Driver side fuse box
*Pink Ignition input - #6 pin of Immobilizer 7 pin connector by ignition


Again, any help you guys can offer is greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much

AznX TL

that sounds right usually if the alarm is armed, you cant start the car from inside or the alarm will go off.

Waynester

True. But the Idatalink module is supposed to disarm the alarm to allow for remote start. It supposed to bypass key and OEM security.

Waynester

Come on guys. No alarm/ remote start installers to chime in?

Thanks

Reach

Shot-in-the-dark answer (I know nothing of remote starters):

If the bypass module is somehow allowing only a temporary bypass of the factory alarm, and then the remote starter is forcing an ignition start, but then the OEM alarm thinks its still armed / locked, you could be triggering the OEM alarm. (could you?)

I wonder what would happen if you, say, left your valet key in the ignition and did this. That would rule out, or include, the issue with the module that is bypassing the factory security. Just a thought.

Waynester

Reach,

I left the key in the ignition, armed the alarm, tried remote starting and the alarm went off as soon as the started attempted to start the car. DAMN!!!!

Great suggestion, thanks. I had not tried it until your recommendation.

Anyone else that may have some suggestions please chime in.

I'm calling the idatalink today to see if they can help me troubleshoot or isolate the problem. I hope they are open today.

Waynester

I called idatalink tech support this morning and they said I had to program the Viper 160XVL unit to unlock as soon as I press the remote start. This will disarm and unlock the doors before the starter engages. Makes sense , I guess, since the locks do not unlock when the remote start is engaged.

Does anyone know how to program this unit to unlock when pressing the remote start button on the key fob?

Thanks in advance.

Edward'TLS

That's not very good -> unlocking car doors when the car owner is still staying inside the warmth of his/her house. Thieves are very fast nowadays. They can swipe everything off (including the stereo) inside a car in just a few minutes.

A good remote start system should not need to unlock car doors in order to work properly.

buste2

its going off because you're not using this harness...

H2- PLUG
**I did not use this connector at all since the IDATALINK handles alarm arm/disarm
*Light green/Black (-) Fatory alarm disarm
*Gray/Black (-) wait to start input
*Green/white (-) Factory alarm rearm
*Violet/Black (-) 200mA channel 4 output

you will need this for remote start. the remote start uses this harness to arm/disarm the alarm for remote starting and to properly use the factory alarm with the viper.

the factory arm and disarm is located in the driver door...please tell me you did use these two wires right?

i remember telling you that already

buste2

also, this harness allows the car to remote start while the car is still armed that way it will not unlock no matter what. if you try to program it to unlock...it will unlock and remain unlocked while the car is started...which beats the purpose of having an alarm hehe

brivalen

when I installed on my 06 TSX i did the following:

VIPER MODULE

*Green Door Lock - NOT USING
*Blue Door Unlock - NOT USING

H1-PLUG
*Red/White (-) 200mA channel 2 output - IDATALINK Trunk (-) input Red/White
*Red 12V Constant input - Red 12V Constant input above in Viper Relay Module
*Brn(-) Horn Honk output - Not connected yet - will connect w/ a relay to brown connector under steering wheel
*Black ground connected with IDATALINK “ground black” and black/white “neutral safety” input from H3, all three connected to the same ground point on the car.
*Violet (NOT USED)
*Blue (-) 2nd unlock output (NOT USING)
*Green (NOT USED)
*Black/White (-) 200mA dome light (NOT USING)
*White/Blue(-) activation input (NOT USING)
*White (+/-) parking light output ŕ to
*Orange ground when armed output (NOT SUING)


H2- PLUG
**I did not use this connector at all since the IDATALINK handles alarm arm/disarm
*Light green/Black (-) Fatory alarm disarm ------- connect to UNLOCK on IDATALINK
*Gray/Black (-) wait to start input
*Green/white (-) Factory alarm rearm ------- connect to LOCK on IDATALINK
*Violet/Black (-) 200mA channel 4 output


This was when the car is lock and both alarms are armed, when you remote start the car doors will unlock, car will start and the doors will relock. This is the easiest way to wire the car WITHOUT having to go into the drivers door. The doors are only open for about 7 seconds - AND no one can steal the car, once they press the brake the car will die and the alarm will sound - tried it.

this setup should also work for the door locks. When you press unlock on the VIPER remote it will automatically put (-) to the factory alarm disarm thus unlocking the doors.

When you press lock on the VIPER remote, it will try and rearm the factory alarm thus locking the doors.

Hopefully this helps - might not be the 100% by the book way to do it, but its been working for me for almost 2 years straight and i didnt have to waste time getting new wires into the drivers door.

Waynester

Haha...You sure did man. I actually did pull open the driver door panel and attempted to do it this way. However, I couldn't bring myself to drilling a hole through the door to run the wires to the driver kick panel area. So I decided to find something that would facilitate it. That's when I found Idatalink. The module I bought from them handles the locks and factory alarm among other things (hood, trunk, etc).

I actually ended up using this harness and fixing the annoying factory alarm going off. So that worked. Now, I'm having to trouble shoot the car not remote starting all the time. Sometimes it starts with the doors locked and armed other times it does not. If the doors aren't locked and car is disarmed, then it starts all the time.

Another thing is, it always starts with the key in it. So I'm down to (-) status output maybe not reaching the module all the time.

Man, what a royal PITA.

Any thoughts????

buste2

sounds like a bad module recording your key signal...did you try resetting the idatalink to rerecord your key? i had the exact same problem when i used a chip module. i said screw it and i used my valet key and it fixed it. now it works 100% of the time and stays armed and locked. if you decide to go this route...just to be extra safe...damage the valet key so no one could steal your key if they find it by any chance...i doubt it but it doesnt hurt to be extra safe. i mounted my module really high close to the guages and screwed it in place. i'll post pictures of my door for you later today.

Waynester

Awesome!!! Thanks bro.

My next move will be to take the Viper tach wire, remove it from the idatalink and connect it to the tach pin on the PCM/ECM. I hope that the RS inconsistency is because of the idatalink module not being able to pick up a consistent tach signal.

IF you can post some pics, that would be great.

Thanks again.

buste2

best i can do with my current treo camera...no digi on me sorry




warning, this is a PITA part...do it slowly

Waynester

buste2,

Thanks for the pic. You basically ran it inside the boot leading to the connector and then inside the weather stripping around the door. Pretty clever.

BTW- I finally figured out why it wasn't consistently remote starting. It was the damn tach wire. I changed it from the idatalink and wired it to the ECM/PCM connector, tach lead. Now it works every time.

Definitely going to come in handy in the Chicago winter months.

Thanks for all of your help, bro. Couldn't of done it with out you. I'll be posting a how to on th site soon with pics.

K serious

The Remote Start Has To Have A Factory Arm Wire And A Disarm Wire. You Need To Use A Tsx Wiring Diagram To Find Those In Your Car. You Can Get One On Wiremagic.com.