cascade done


spacer installed


woofer in

 

crossover installed


almost done


done


stay posted kids, more as I go along

Iggy

 

uuummmmmmm.......did you remember to remove the Beck's from behind the speaker.

Lookin' good.....can't wait to see more.

 

Did you just buy those spacers or have them made? If you bought them where did you buy them from and how much. Thanks

 

[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Loren/Desktop/Smilies!!!!!!_files/overwhelmed.gif[/IMG]

 

Chinoz,
Naw, I had to make them. Check out this thread, it explains it all:spacer pics

 

Nice spacer work

 

Nice job dude !!! Especially the spacer. The Rotor Zip is actually pretty useful, may be I should invest the $99 tool.

Cheers !!!

 

NICE WORK IGGY!

You will have one nice sounding door once you finish off that BECKS! lol

That cascade work must have taken some doing. I was afraid to pull my white plastic off for fear I'd never get it to stick back on. You have really gone the distance. I just mounted one sheet of dynamat extreme directly underneath the speaker. Your cascade work and custom spacer is why I settled on the smaller POLK DX6s. I didn't have your endurance for that amount of detailed work. Be sure to remind your wife how much money you have saved. And I doubt that you would find many shops that would do that nice of work!

I only see ONE thing missing...

You need my "Terminator mod"... You need a .05uF/1kv ceramic disc cap in series with a 100ohm/1watt resistor tied across the input of your crossover... It will do wonders for that zipcord wiring.

So far there is a list of about 6 people who have tried my "terminator" mod and ALL have reported improvements in sound. YOU WILL TOO! With the way you've mounted your crossover, You've made it a cinch to attach and detach for A-B listening tests. Just read the thread that you started called "door speakers, replace em or no?". There are unsolicited testimonials there. I'd hate to see you miss out while you still have the door panels off...

Not that I'm pushy or anything. You can tell me to shove it like sniper wanted to do... He's the only one still left out in the jury who said he would try the mod, but hasn't reported results.

NICE WORK REGARDLESS!!! Have another Becks!
Southbound

 

i wouldnt put the xover in door.. in time the screws on the xover will rust due to moisture in the door.. this will then affect ur sound. i know its easier for the install but i would move them to inside the car...



FiddlyD

 

fiddly,
Yep I thought about that. I used all stainless hardware along with plexi which will not corrode. Also I put the vapor barrier behind the croosover. see below


Cheers,
Iggy

 

where did you mount the tweeters?? any pics

 

Hey Iggy,
Do you plan to bypass the EQ anytime soon ? If you do, let me know hard it would be cause I want to add an after martket amp to drive the speakers. I have started to save some $ to get a good 4-channel amp.

Cheers !!!

 

Ask and you shall receive:

 

The bypass will happen soon. I'm in the process of figuring out where/how to mount the amp then it's time to rip out the interior and do some real wiring. I'll post pics of the whole thing as I go.

With the four doors done and being powered just by the HU it sounds VERY NICE, but I have to turn up the volume so high to drive the JL's that it is'nt all that clean. Once the bypass is done and feeding each speaker 65wRMS(conservative number I'm told), this thing will ROCK, relatively speaking of course.

Iggy

 

Southbound(or can I call you Southy?)

Rest assured the "Terminator mod" will happen, but I'm going to wait until the system is complete and had a chance to road test it for a while so I can do a realistic comparison. If you get a chance could you give me your email addy. Thanks

Iggster
Yuppuguppi@adelphia.net

 

HEY I HAVE THE JL XR650CS IN MY FRONT DOOR TOO, I ALSO HAVE THE JL VR525CS IN THE BACK DOOR. MINES SOUND NICE BUT I STILL HAVE TO HOOK MY JL 300/4 FOR THE MIDS. BUT I DO HAVE MY JL 500/1 HOOKED UP TO MY 3 JL W6'S. SO YEHA MY SYSTEM SOUNDS NICE JSUT HAVE TO INVEST IN SOME DYNAMAT AND HOOK UP TEH REST OF MY SYSTEM AND IT WOULD SOUND REALLY NICE. YOUR INSTALL IS NICE THO PROPS BUT I PUT MY TWEETERS ON THE DOOR I LIKE THEM THERE BETTER CAUSE THERE FLUSH MOUNT. OH WELL STILL LOOKS NICE THO.

 

HEY IGGY JSUT WANTED TO KNOW WHAT AMPS AND SUBS YOU ARE GONNA USE?

 

ANDYTRAN,
The JL's for the front and Polk DX-6 in the rears. I put the tweets in the sail panels because I want to be as non-invasive to the car as I can. If I sell the car I want the option to rip everything out with minimum fuss. This way I could just repair/replace the sail panels as opposed to replacing $300+ door panels. I know the sound staging will be off a bit, but I guess there's a trade off to everything in life.

As far as the sub goes, I'm still debating about that one. I got a five channel amp, of which I will only use four until I upgrade the sub.
The amp is an Earthquake TNT-900

specs:
Maximum output power: 900Watts
Output Power: 65Watts RMSx4 into 4 Ohms
200Watts RMSx1 into 4 Ohms
Bridged Output Power (5Ch): 200Watts RMSx2 into 4 Ohms
Distortion: 0.015% THD
Frequency Response: 10Hz-35kHz +/- 1.5 dB
Signal To Noise: 104 dB
Low Level Input: 200mV-4V
Size(WxHxD): 8 1/2" x 2" x 16"


Cheers,
Iggy

Btw- Turn off your caps, It hurts my eyes. :p

 

Iggy,
I just gotta repeat that you have done some super work here!!!

I'm impressed with everything you have done so far, and I'm sure you have probably figured out that I'm not easily impressed:p

I wish I still had the energy and time to do your kind of mod work. I may end up there yet, because I just can't stand a mediocre car stereo. Driving ALONE in the car with my favorite tunes CRANKED is how I relieve my stress. I CAN'T crank the home stereo because of neighbors and family, etc. So I get away in the TLS and blow out the cobwebs!

I wouldn't worry at all about what Diddly said with regard to mounting your crossover inside the car. That would really make no sense. First, where do you mount it inside the car without it being in the way? Second, drill holes through the door panel just to connect a crossover? I don't think anyone would want to ruin their door panels that way... Third, Corrosion on those connections will be the last of your concerns! I'm sure they are gold plated to prevent corrosion. If they're not, you've used stainless hardware, to cover yourself. IN ANY CONNECTION... as long as you have a "gas-tight" crimp, screw lug, or solder, the actual conductive contacts will not tarnish. The metal around the contacts may tarnish, but not the actual "gas tight" connection. If I were to worry about corrosion, I'd be worried about the slip on terminal connectors used to slide on the speaker itself. That is NOT a gas tight connection, and it would corrode WAY before your screwed down crossover connections will. So unless Fiddly solders his speaker connections, he'll have trouble there, way before his crossover corrodes. The speaker is outside in the elements as compared to your crossover that is mounted on the inside of the moisture barrier. It would take being mounted on a boat in constant salt water/air to finally corrode the entire terminal off of the speakers and screw lugs before you'd have trouble. By then, the speaker itself would be rotted out. I'd totally disregard that concern. Fourth, and not least, Keep the crossover where you have it because it is perfect for the "terminator" mod. The shorter the wires are from the crossover to the individual speakers, the better. And since you didn't mount it inside of the actual door frame, you can still do A-B tests with realtive ease. I understand the scope of your work, and would prefer you wait to try it out. That way you can give it a fair evaluation. Take your time to do it when you can actually appreciate its effects. It will be a final touch to your coveted "super system".

I'd also be happy with where you mounted the tweeters. Like you say, it's much easier to buy and replace new sail panels than to replace a door panel. Also, I really feel that the placement of the tweeters should be up closer to ear level. The higher the frequency, the more directional it becomes. They don't mount tweeters on the bottom of home stereo speakers for a reason... they mount them at the top to try and keep them up at your ear level...

Thanks again, and with YOUR install work, YOUR THE MAN!!!

Southbound

 

Is your cascade one sheet?

 

yep