Exactly. The mutiplex control module looks to be confused by the additional siganl and shuts down the bus interface until the overlap is resolved. Cutting power from that interface drops the input to the bus and all is well in the world again. I'll have info and a fix hopfully tomorrow for the 04 TL setup. Got Josh's torn apart in the garage right now


D.

 

I-MOD, now that I have the switch hooked up and everything works properly, I have a slight alternator whine, but only when I'm listening to XM radio. How do I fix this?

 

Most people have to put in a ground loop isolator on their RCA run from the trunk.

thanks
D.

 

Is the cable and/or adaptor on top of the Airbag ECU on top of the hump? We've had problems with GLI's and other types of adaptor picking up noise from this device when on top or a couple inches away. Three confirmations so far...

 

Do I need to add a GLI to the XM? I only get the alternator noise when I'm listening to XM radio, not when I'm listening to my AUX source (DVD player). The SHOND3 adapter is just below the cubbyhole in my 2004 Accord, inside the center console.

 

Hmm... if it is electro-magnetic interference from the ECU, the GLI won't help. If the noise goes away when the AUX is selected, it implies the circuit is different when the SHOND is turned off.

One experiment I would perform is cutting the ground to the SHOND and see if the noise goes away with XM. Might, might not. If it did work, then a double-pole switch breaking (+) and (-) could solve the problem. (Don't try just breaking (-), it'll ground elsewhere - the reason it might not work).

I would also try physically moving the SHOND away from the ECU. Easy to try once it's apart.

The GLI would be a pain to insert, and seems like a last-resort test. But you could do it using that diagram I sent you, if you had to...

 

OH MY GOD..............im sorry for chiming in so damn late, but here i am

1st: humperdood, welcome to the HELL that i have been going through for the last 4 weeks. I had the entire thing done, but the XM sound quality was HORRIBLE, to say the least. I had to have the volume on 40 and i could barely hear it. DVD work'd fine. I have the "Y" cord from honda, and the SHOND3 fromLogjam. I need to splice the shond3 device the way I-MOD did for you.

2nd: I-MOD, can you explain how to splice the SHOND3 for me........i found an aticle on the "how to" part of it, but i have since lost it.......and im not sure wich wires to cut.


Heres my set-up: The Honda "Y" going to XM and RCA cables located in my center counsel. In the center counsel i have the RCA inputs permanatly implanted. I switch between my DVD set up and my I-POD.
The DVD sound is very faint on movies, but on music dvd's its fine (Lincon Park Live In Texas).......and im not sure why. I-MOD if you can help me with an idea on that also, it would great!!!

I'm trying to get some pics up-loaded, but i cant while at work.....and when im home, wich isnt much lately, i always forget about it.

Thanks Guys.

 

I think that the SHOND/Blitzsafe device always looks like it is ON, and doesn't get that the 2004 might have XM on as well... I bet it doesn't support the login in the 2004 Accord with XM (where either of two devices might be on, so one must shut off when the other's on).

So the SHOND is always on with AUX selected, and the XM sees it and won't output anything. The SOND can't see the XM if the SHOND logic doesn't support it.

So I-MOD's response was to find the power wire for the SHOND, and run it through a switch. When the SHOND is turned off, the XM sees no databus logic conflict, and works fine.

 

yup, i know.

my biggest problem is that i cant figure out wich wires to spplice into. since I-MOD has done it already, i hope he can tell me what colors to splice into.

 

Don't you have a voltmeter? Look for the wire with 12V positive on it, that goes away with ACC off...

 

negative, no VM for me.

 

I took pictures of the switch and what wires to use. If someone can tell me how to post them, you'd be good to go.

 

Do you have a CarDomain site? I've posted photos there and pasted the URL's in here.

21inAZ, you gotta get a voltmeter. They are cheap now, and with the stuff you do, you gotta know that shit.

Here's a crappy one on ebay for 5.75! But you gotta have it... otherwise you are flying blind!

 

you need to put the switch in on the yellow wire. When you start the car power must me going to the HON adapter. When you get to the OK warning screen you can turn it off of leave it on if your goign to play a DVD or I-POD or whatever. To get XM just shut it off and XM works fine

D.

 

go to www.photobucket.com and make a free acount, then upload you pics to your comp. then from photobucket, you can upload the pics off of your comp.

once the pics are in PB, you can post a reply here, and click on the IMG tab in the reply part.

it sounds tuff, but its HELLA easy......the hardest part is getting the pics onto your comp from your camera......thats my problem right now.

 

I did this last night, but it doesent work............i still can not hear my XM.

what am i doing wrong?

what i did:
I went to radio shack and bought a switch, it has 2 clips on the back (im thinking i need one with 3) I cliped the yellow wire into one side, and the other end of the yellow wire into the other side. DOESENT WORK.

i am going to go buy another switch from RS tonight, with 3 clips on it. i will do the yellow on 1 side, ground in the middle, and the other yellow on the other side.............

i hope that all makes sense, and that you can point me in the right direction here........

 

The way you had it the first time is right. Don't do it the other way or you will short it to ground and kill your adapter. do you have the 2 port cable in and the adapter hooked to one side of it? Also, the switch has to be on giving power to the adapter when you start the car

D.

 

ok.........im glad i didnt get the new switch then, i dont want to buy another hon adaptor!!

i hooked it up, and it works.............sorta.

the CD-C doesent come on anymore, its only xm1 & xm2..........i flip the switch and then my IPOD/DVD sound comes on, flip the switch back and XM sound plays.
its wierd.

also, the system thats not on, still plays in the background.........

any idea wtf i did wrong?

 

Do you have the switch ON when starting the car? You should have the CD-C option

D.

 

i'll have to play around with it tonight, but, im pretty sure that it was on.

 

Hi everyone, I'm a newb to this forum, but I've been lurking for a while, trying to find out the same info that's in this thread.

21_in_az, have you had any luck?

I'm considering getting the Blitz and the y-cable as I want to put the audio from my DVD into the CD-C input.

 

I have it all working, and it is GREAT!!!!!

the only PITA is that you have to remember to have the switch in the OFF postition when you start your car, if you forget and leave the switch on, then you cant get the CD-C option.

HOWEVER, if you leave the switch ON you can still listen to your XM or DVD, you just have to switch the switch.......but, you only get XM1, XM2, CD.....no CD-C option.

I didnt have the chance to buy a new digi cam this weekend, got to busy....hopefully this weekend i will get one.

also, dont forget i have an Accord with built in XM..........the TSX has the AUX/CD option. I have CD/SAT.

 

This is great news!

I ordered my blitz and the y-cable.

By the way, I have a 2004 Accord as well, not a TSX. But all of the accord forums were dry and didn't have any info other than "disconnect the factory XM".

I paid for my factory XM, I'm not going to disconnect it.

My 04 accord also says CD/SAT radio on the cd/aux button.

 

ya, i hear ya about the accord forums........there sooo slow sometimes!

plus, the guys/gals around here AWESOME!! i love this board!


its cool that we have the same car! if you have any questions about the install, PM me or reply here.
good luck!!

 

I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX V6. I had I-MOD hook up a switch to my SHOND3 adapter so that I could get "pure" audio from my DVD player without an FM modulator. It works great for the DVD player audio. The only problem is that I now have alternator whine whenever I just listen to XM radio, not CD or DVD player audio. It's weird. I even tried to take apart the dash and relocate the SHOND3 box from under the navigation screen to the right of the shifter, inside the center console. This did not help. If I buy a GLI, will this work? Please help!

 

Sorry, it's been a while... I would think that a good test of this is to unplug the RCA from the DVD unit into the SHOND (effectivel "ground isolating" them). If the noise on XM goes away with those unplugged, then the GLI could work. I would doubt if it would work otherwise.

I assume that there is not XM harness sitting on top of the airbag ecu.

If the RCA trick does not work, try unplugging the wire harness from the SHOND to see if you still have it. If you DO still have it, you probably have inducted noise on the harness between the SHOND and the XM (unlikely, but worth checking). If you don't, you probably have a ground loop between the SHOND and the XM. Not sure how to address thatone short of chopping the RCAs off of a GLI and inserting it into the harness...

 

I have the exacte same problem, and i'm buying a GLI tonight, and installing it this weekend.........

i will let you know if it works. or, if you do it first, let me know please!!

 

Update:

Got my Blitzsafe adapter and y-cable from LogJam via UPS today.

Installed the Blitzsafe adapter and tested with XM disconnected. As expected, I got CD and CD-C as options when I press CD/SAT. So far so good. Connect the DVD player/TV tuner and insert Matrix Reloaded.

Audio is awesome. MUCH better than the FM modulator. FM modulator is going up on ebay.

Now, I hook up the y-cable and XM. Got CD-C, CD, XM1 and XM2. As expected, XM was a distant fade in the background. Disconnect the yellow wire on the blitz and XM returns to normal. Reconnect it and audio from DVD player plays. So far so good.

I installed the switch, but only as a temporary measure. I'm going to drag out the oscilloscope one of these weekends and see if there is anything on any of the other signal wires which is active only when XM is on. There has to be something. The voltmeter didn't reveal much, except that some of the wires are audio, the yellow one is power and that there's a 2.5 volt wire on one of the other lines.

By the way, if you have the 2004 with navigation, you don't need to buy the navigation adapter with the extra cable. The non-nav one will work just fine (and you'll save $30). I believe the 04 does the nav audio input a bit differently.

 

Well I did some more looking around, here's what I found:

The main component of the blitzsafe adapter is a PIC microcontroller. No surprise here.

There is a TL082 op amp on the board as well. I suspect it's for amplifying the line level signal and piping it into the stereo. This would explain why when your aux adapter is ON, it blanks out the XM, and when it is off, XM plays fine. So, we have a couple of options:

Modify the aux adapter to turn on power to the op amp only when CD-C is selected on the bus. May require programming another PIC.

Build a separate box to read the Uni-Link output of the blitzsafe adapter so that when it's selected, it will turn ON the aux input.

If there's something that turns ON when XM is selected (like on the XM module itself) it would be stupidly easy to build a device that will cut your aux input when XM is on. That's the easiest route. But we have to find this.

When I get some more time I'll do some more investigating. But this looks like it can go somewhere. It doesn't seem horribly insurmountable.

 

I unhooked my SHOND3 adapter because the noise was just driving me nuts. I listen to XM more than anything else, and even if I wanted to listen to mp3s, I can just make a regular CD and pop 6 into the dash. No big deal. I would gladly do that instead of listening to that whine. I confirmed yesterday that it IS the Blitzsafe or SHOND3 adapter that is making this noise. Stupid things...

 

Did you try the GLI on it to stop the noise?

D.

 

D,
No. The reason why I did not try that is because the sound was still there when I disconnected the RCA cables from the AVelectronics unit in my trunk. I also took apart my dash, and sure enough, as soon as I disconnected the SHOND3 adapter, the sound volume and sound quality jumped up a lot. I usually listen to the volume at around level 10 for XM radio and 15 when I here a really good song. I never go above 15 because it was too loud. With the SHOND3 adapter installed, 15 was the minimum (same volume level as 10 without the adapter), and usually I had the volume to 20-23 on the Comedy station. I had had enough, and I don't think the GLI will work. Thanks for your help though!

 

The problem that the SNHOND3 (and others) have is that they do not disconnect from the audio wires on the bus when CD-C is deselected. This is why you get the whine when XM is selected and this is why the volume is lower.

Does anyone have any info as to the pinouts and signals on the Honda bus? I'm thinking it's similar to Sony's Unilink (probably becker Unilink) since the aux adapters all accept unilink changers. It shouldn't be too hard to design an XM compatible adapter that connects the aux input ONLY when CD-C is selected. Much of the info for designing a unilink compatible adapter can be found at http://gnunilink.sourceforge.net/. I haven't had the time to go poking around thoroughly yet, but when I do I'll be sure to keep you guys posted.

 

humperdood (and others),

The alternator whine is being introduced from the aux input. Unfortunately I think the AVElectronic unit is extremely susceptible to engine noise. I had engine noise from it even when my audio was FM modulated. I have a GLI on mine and no problems.

By the way, I have a slight mod for those of you who still want to use the switch.

Cutting the power to the soundgate or blitzsafe adapter is going to work, but that's not the best solution. The best solution is to cut the audio wires on the bus when you want to listen to DVD/MP3/iPod. That way, the aux adapter always has power, and there is nothing to interfere with the XM tuner's audio when you're not in CD-C mode.

You can use a double pole switch, OR you can wire up a single pole switch with two small relays (RS cat# 275-232, make sure you use a 5v regulator for the coil or you will burn it).

So your switch will work like before, and you won't have to have it on when you start your car, since the aux adapter will always have power (from the bus).

 

Which Wires are the Audio?

 

On the blitzsafe adapter's cable, it's the shielded set of wires in the gray jacket.

There are two grounds and two audio wires. I believe the system uses floating ground, although I haven't investigated this fully. This means four small reed relays. You can probably get away with using two and combining the grounds although I am not so sure about this. Relays are cheap though (and a new XM tuner or Honda stock stereo is not).

I wonder why Blitz didn't design the adapter to cut the audio wire when CD-C isn't selected. Should be fairly easy to do for them. That would have been the easiest way to make the adapter fully XM compatible.

 

has anybody actually done this mod and been 100% happy with it. Anyone who has done it seems to get noise or other problems. this seems like it should work in theory but has anybody done it with satisfaction?

 

Well here is a big BUMP.

I think I may be close to a solution.

There's an audio actuated switch made by PIE and it goes by the part number SON-AUX. It's designed to allow you to put two aux ins on a sony deck.

When audio is detected in one of the inputs to the switch, it disconnects the other audio output. When no audio is heard for 10 sec, it disconnects and switches back.

I got it yesterday and tried it out with some home stereo gear. Contrary to the instructions, you do NOT need a Sony DVD changer or deck. It works with any audio source.

So here's my plan.

I'm going to splice this into the Y cable. XM is going to be the controlling source.

When XM is selected, XM will send audio going through the bus, and XM will switch the adapter to XM only. When you switch to CD-C, XM will go silent, and after 10 sec it will switch to your other aux source. 10 sec might seem like a long time, but it takes like 5 sec for my DVD player to initialize anyway. So whats another 5 sec.

I got the parts in yesterday from discountcarstereo.com and I'm going to install it after next week (I have finals next week).

This should be cleaner than using the switch.

As for the alternator noise, I'm going direct to the bus and not using the Blitzsafe adaptor's internal audio circuitry (my guess is that it's a pre-amp).

Wish me luck. I'm going to report back when I've tried it.

 

I'm glad somebody is still trying to resolve all these issues. Good luck. I wish I knew a little more about this stuff so I could help.

 

A friend of mine who works for a stereo shop tried the same thing your talking about for his 04 TL. It didn't work on his car which is about the same setup as the TSX/Accord. Let us know if you have better luck with it

D.