Factory x-over access?
Factory x-over access?
It seems as though this forum has a very extensive amount of knowledge. Hopefully, my question requires just a simple answer.
How does one access the crossover? Has anyone done this and modified with any success?
I'm looking to change the signal that the tweeter receives before looking at replacements such as the LPG 25NFA or equivalent Vifa tweeter. Hopefully, new drivers can be avoided for cost reasons.
If this question has been pursued in a prior thread, then I apologize and could someone please forward me to that thread?
Thanks...
How does one access the crossover? Has anyone done this and modified with any success?
I'm looking to change the signal that the tweeter receives before looking at replacements such as the LPG 25NFA or equivalent Vifa tweeter. Hopefully, new drivers can be avoided for cost reasons.
If this question has been pursued in a prior thread, then I apologize and could someone please forward me to that thread?
Thanks...
Is the amp unit detachable from the rest of the CD storage compartment and/or HU?
If not, are there better mechanically fitted tweeters than the LPG and Vifa units available. My mechanical expertise is limited so the better fitting the tweeter the less chance of me messing up some custom work.
BTW Dan_Martin, your icon is f**king hilarious... Is it Rambo photoshopped?
If not, are there better mechanically fitted tweeters than the LPG and Vifa units available. My mechanical expertise is limited so the better fitting the tweeter the less chance of me messing up some custom work.
BTW Dan_Martin, your icon is f**king hilarious... Is it Rambo photoshopped?
Castle, the xover is entirely active within the amp... but the amp is fed by F and R full-range preamp outputs with an 800mV peak-to-peak output level using the Alpine CAN test disc. So it's not hard to use with an upgraded amp, as many here have discussed.
Maybe its a pipedream, but depending on the accessibility of the existing amp, the x-over certainly could be tweaked with whether its an active or a passive network.
I've never actually looked into the belly of this beast to see how difficult it would be to remove just the amp. For other users' endeavors, did you remove the factory amp or did you just bypass it? If you removed it, then could you please forward me to a thread or explain how it was done?
I've never actually looked into the belly of this beast to see how difficult it would be to remove just the amp. For other users' endeavors, did you remove the factory amp or did you just bypass it? If you removed it, then could you please forward me to a thread or explain how it was done?
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Well, if it's active and it's programmed into an IC, then I'd say that the ROI on the effort required to try to modify it is poor.
If it's an LC network on the PCB, someone with enough OCD tendencies could trace it out as long as they weren't taking their meds : ) Lotta work, and you're still stuck with crappy speakers with a short lifespan and an underpowered amp with harsh HF sound.
Are you asking about removing the amp to examine? See the section in FAQ's on installing the SHOND... that tells you how to get to the amp. Then it's four bolts and two plugs... easy.
If it's an LC network on the PCB, someone with enough OCD tendencies could trace it out as long as they weren't taking their meds : ) Lotta work, and you're still stuck with crappy speakers with a short lifespan and an underpowered amp with harsh HF sound.
Are you asking about removing the amp to examine? See the section in FAQ's on installing the SHOND... that tells you how to get to the amp. Then it's four bolts and two plugs... easy.
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