Car Audio article on alarm system design/setup
07-29-2004, 10:12 AM
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Car Audio article on alarm system design/setup
This was published by Car Audio years ago in their security issue. It's a fairly accessible presentation of what I've learned about making alarms hard to bypass, disconnect, or even just ignore.
Something it does NOT address is finding an installer who will work with you...
The five-fold path to security enlightenment
There are some killer top-of-the-line systems out there today. I like to have the great gear as much as the next enthusiast, but here’s the news: you may be better off buying more add-ons and less alarm! If you are protecting audio gear, wheels, and other custom accessories, consider the options below when determining your final budget. I personally believe that a middle-of-the-road system with some of the features discussed here is more secure than a top-of-the-line system without the installation features to do it justice.
1) Pay dollars for sense
Almost every alarm in the world comes with an impact sensor (also commonly called a “shock” sensor). The original purpose of an impact sensor, as us old-timers remember, was to detect force being applied to the door lock cylinder on the outside of the door or trunk. This force is usually applied with a hammer.
I believe that good security requires a good impact sensor, properly adjusted. Unfortunately, most false alarms result from improperly mounted, poorly adjusted impact sensors. Adding a glass break sensor, a proximity sensor, or sometimes even a trunk pin switch or a window-mounted magnetic reed switch will let you set all your sensors to lower thresholds, and your false alarms will actually go down!
Since breaking tempered glass creates very different vibrations than hitting sheet metal with a hammer, almost every alarm maker has a microphone-based glass sensor. I have been using these religiously for over a decade, and as long as they are properly adjusted, they work well. I set mine so that one key rapping against the window will not trigger the system, but three or four keys will. (Remember to roll up your windows if you have glass-break sensing, and I do not recommend it for convertibles.)
Many shops will nowadays recommend a proximity sensor over a glass microphone, and I agree with that recommendation if you have a convertible, or if your budget has enough room. However, proximity alarms might eat up enough of your budget to prevent you from taking advantage of some of the other points below, so think your decision through!
2) Learn the art of noise
Your system is intended to attract attention to any would-be thieves or burglars. In order to do its job, it must attract attention no matter what. Every alarm comes with a siren. I recommend paying additional installation fees to have the siren and its wires mounted out of easy reach (with newer front-wheel-drive cars, I prefer to mount sirens inside the ABS-molded inner fender). Expect to pay up to an additional hour of installation labor, but it’s well worth the money.
I also highly recommend horn honk, especially if the system has a dedicated horn output. Remember that the install price of a horn-capable system rarely includes wiring the horn, since so many customers want to save the few dollars it takes to do it right. Horn honk attracts lots of attention, especially in conjunction with a siren.
Finally, to protect your audio system, consider a piezo-type mini siren mounted inside your center air vents. The piercing sound, in such close quarters, does a great job of deterring would-be head unit thieves.
3) Keep your priorities straight
Keyless entry is very popular with modern cars. If your system has auxiliary outputs, you can have your shop wire what is often called driver’s door priority unlocking. While it does add to the cost and complexity of the door lock inteface task, it allows you to always unlock only the driver’s door when disarming, and unlock the rest by pressing a second button. The idea is to make it much harder for anybody to jump into your car with you. I really like this function for anybody that works in a retail situation, especially in malls.
While some alarms have circuitry to make this priority-unlock feature easier, almost any multiple-output alarm can accommodate this capability. Expect longer installation times.
4) Hold on to your power
Some alarm makers demand that the installer run power wires directly to the battery and some do not. No matter what system you have, your car battery will be powering your alarm. Make sure to get your battery some backup, either with a security-specific backup battery or a siren with its own backup battery inside. I personally prefer the separate battery, since it allows all your auxiliary noisemakers mentioned previously to keep going.
I also offer my customers the option of paying for additional installation time for maximum stealth routing of the power wiring and fuses. Every alarm system requires plenty of appropriate fuses, but make sure they are not too obvious if you are serious about your vehicle security.
5) Two is better than one
Starter kill has been around for years, and all the better install shops will conceal your starter kill relay pretty well. If your vehicle is a high-percentage theft target, you may want to consider taking a belt-and-suspenders approach to starter kill. For instance, many of my Acura Integra GS-R customers pay for an interrupt relay to be installed on the clutch-pedal interlock circuit. (This is the circuit which prevents starting without pressing the clutch pedal first.) The relay “fools” the vehicle into thinking that the clutch pedal is not being pressed, whether it is or not. Even if somebody has the time and technical savvy to bypass the standard starter kill circuitry, they probably won’t find both circuits.
Notice that every one of these takes more time and money. Make sure that the shop and the installer you ask to do this work likes the idea and understands what you want to accomplish, and your security will be second to none.
Something it does NOT address is finding an installer who will work with you...
The five-fold path to security enlightenment
There are some killer top-of-the-line systems out there today. I like to have the great gear as much as the next enthusiast, but here’s the news: you may be better off buying more add-ons and less alarm! If you are protecting audio gear, wheels, and other custom accessories, consider the options below when determining your final budget. I personally believe that a middle-of-the-road system with some of the features discussed here is more secure than a top-of-the-line system without the installation features to do it justice.
1) Pay dollars for sense
Almost every alarm in the world comes with an impact sensor (also commonly called a “shock” sensor). The original purpose of an impact sensor, as us old-timers remember, was to detect force being applied to the door lock cylinder on the outside of the door or trunk. This force is usually applied with a hammer.
I believe that good security requires a good impact sensor, properly adjusted. Unfortunately, most false alarms result from improperly mounted, poorly adjusted impact sensors. Adding a glass break sensor, a proximity sensor, or sometimes even a trunk pin switch or a window-mounted magnetic reed switch will let you set all your sensors to lower thresholds, and your false alarms will actually go down!
Since breaking tempered glass creates very different vibrations than hitting sheet metal with a hammer, almost every alarm maker has a microphone-based glass sensor. I have been using these religiously for over a decade, and as long as they are properly adjusted, they work well. I set mine so that one key rapping against the window will not trigger the system, but three or four keys will. (Remember to roll up your windows if you have glass-break sensing, and I do not recommend it for convertibles.)
Many shops will nowadays recommend a proximity sensor over a glass microphone, and I agree with that recommendation if you have a convertible, or if your budget has enough room. However, proximity alarms might eat up enough of your budget to prevent you from taking advantage of some of the other points below, so think your decision through!
2) Learn the art of noise
Your system is intended to attract attention to any would-be thieves or burglars. In order to do its job, it must attract attention no matter what. Every alarm comes with a siren. I recommend paying additional installation fees to have the siren and its wires mounted out of easy reach (with newer front-wheel-drive cars, I prefer to mount sirens inside the ABS-molded inner fender). Expect to pay up to an additional hour of installation labor, but it’s well worth the money.
I also highly recommend horn honk, especially if the system has a dedicated horn output. Remember that the install price of a horn-capable system rarely includes wiring the horn, since so many customers want to save the few dollars it takes to do it right. Horn honk attracts lots of attention, especially in conjunction with a siren.
Finally, to protect your audio system, consider a piezo-type mini siren mounted inside your center air vents. The piercing sound, in such close quarters, does a great job of deterring would-be head unit thieves.
3) Keep your priorities straight
Keyless entry is very popular with modern cars. If your system has auxiliary outputs, you can have your shop wire what is often called driver’s door priority unlocking. While it does add to the cost and complexity of the door lock inteface task, it allows you to always unlock only the driver’s door when disarming, and unlock the rest by pressing a second button. The idea is to make it much harder for anybody to jump into your car with you. I really like this function for anybody that works in a retail situation, especially in malls.
While some alarms have circuitry to make this priority-unlock feature easier, almost any multiple-output alarm can accommodate this capability. Expect longer installation times.
4) Hold on to your power
Some alarm makers demand that the installer run power wires directly to the battery and some do not. No matter what system you have, your car battery will be powering your alarm. Make sure to get your battery some backup, either with a security-specific backup battery or a siren with its own backup battery inside. I personally prefer the separate battery, since it allows all your auxiliary noisemakers mentioned previously to keep going.
I also offer my customers the option of paying for additional installation time for maximum stealth routing of the power wiring and fuses. Every alarm system requires plenty of appropriate fuses, but make sure they are not too obvious if you are serious about your vehicle security.
5) Two is better than one
Starter kill has been around for years, and all the better install shops will conceal your starter kill relay pretty well. If your vehicle is a high-percentage theft target, you may want to consider taking a belt-and-suspenders approach to starter kill. For instance, many of my Acura Integra GS-R customers pay for an interrupt relay to be installed on the clutch-pedal interlock circuit. (This is the circuit which prevents starting without pressing the clutch pedal first.) The relay “fools” the vehicle into thinking that the clutch pedal is not being pressed, whether it is or not. Even if somebody has the time and technical savvy to bypass the standard starter kill circuitry, they probably won’t find both circuits.
Notice that every one of these takes more time and money. Make sure that the shop and the installer you ask to do this work likes the idea and understands what you want to accomplish, and your security will be second to none.
03-15-2005, 12:50 AM
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TY. I actually got paid for that : )
Only hard part was the corny section headings... all the rest I learned the hard way in retail. Nothing more humbling than selling an alarm and having the guy come back with the alarm bypassed and his shit gone.
Only hard part was the corny section headings... all the rest I learned the hard way in retail. Nothing more humbling than selling an alarm and having the guy come back with the alarm bypassed and his shit gone.
information i didnt see due to the merger
03-15-2005, 09:07 AM
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excellent advice, there are alot of great things that people here ought to take frorm this. The thing that I've seen that needs to be reiterated the most though is once you've found a good installer don't rush them. I can tell you from expirience (as I just did it all on my car again yesterday) to do a full alarm and remote start right, so that everything is hidden well and the car is fully protected, it take no less than 4 hours, sometimes up to a full day.
03-15-2005, 09:35 AM
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Yeah, I go for the full day.
I tell people "It wouldn't be responsible to try to rush".
(Few people are willing to tell you to be irresponsible: )
I tell people "It wouldn't be responsible to try to rush".
(Few people are willing to tell you to be irresponsible: )
03-30-2005, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by elduderino
Yeah, I go for the full day.
I tell people "It wouldn't be responsible to try to rush".
(Few people are willing to tell you to be irresponsible: )
I tell people "It wouldn't be responsible to try to rush".
(Few people are willing to tell you to be irresponsible: )
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