Big Pimpin

Ok the other day I showed a guy at work my new system and he noticed the tail lights they were diming and then going back to bright. He sugguested a capacitor abd I have no idea what to look for in a capacitor here is a link to my setup http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2094023

KADAW

my brother says '1 frad. per 500 watt' just to be safe, sounds good to me.. ey? hah

optomos

The stiffening caps are pretty much the same. Each company slaps their own sticker on them.

I would use the 5 farrad C.A.P @ alumapro.com. They have them on ebay to.

Big Pimpin

Thanks

Rusky

I suspected that the capacitors were essentially the same. However, this alumapro monster is a whole nother story. It would supply more fareds then I'd ever need. However, we're talking $200. I only need 1 fared myself.

Should I get the big dog and know I'll never need more (even though my alternator isn't getting any bigger) or should I stick to the $80 name brand caps? Who can advise me on this?

Basically, my system cuts out when I really get it rockin... The lights dim like crazy, sometimes the fuse blows (I use a smaller fuse then recommended to make sure I don't damage anything).

I'd like to handle a little more bass then I can now. I'm right at 1200 watts maximum but I never want to turn it up quite that loud. Maybe 2/3 that.

thanks y'all

wakeboardfusion

you could just get a new alternator instead of the cap, i think they are around 160 or so

shawhite

a cap is not going to do much for you dimming lights.. i personally have the aluma pro cap and i love it ... the rule of thumb i have been told is 1farad for every 1000w..

harrjar

I'm not trying to flame you or anything but I think you could have some other issue with your system.

I looked up the specs on your system and it doesn't look like you are demanding as much power as you might think from your car. I have not used Caps before and when I had my Z, I was runing dual amps at around the same power output as your alpines. I never blew fuses and I never had trouble with dimming lights.

Something just doesn't seem right here, does the TSX just have a week alternator? Smaller than normal battery?

Also, just an observation, I think you are way underpowering your speaks. The components are OK but they could take more...the subs though...you're starving them.

I'm sure it all sounds good still, it's just that you could probably get better sound with some beefier amps. The amp you have would be in the RMS range for 1 Type R....I assume you have them wired for a combined impedence of 8 ohms or are they 4?

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

ur system shouldnt be cutting out and popping fuses like that... caps really don't do much.. like others have said on here, upgraded alternator is the way to go...

Blocked Shots

thats really wierd i have the same exact system......type S speakers in the back.........type R 12" subs.....i got a vented box though and component alpines in the front...........and as far as the amps...u have this years...i have last years... plus two more amps...one for each sub and one for speakers..........but yeah one 500 watt capacitor will do.......but if u want to eliminate it completely go with a 1000 watt capacitor.......DONT GET THE DIGITAL ONES...the digital part die's off....and its a waste of money extra 15 - 25 bucks u save

Blocked Shots

( forgot to mention i work in an audio shop ) now i read your post and others post as well and left out important info...lol.......umm....u also have the same components as me..so we have the exact same system EXACT........what u are doing right now is.....completely underpowing all your speakers........completely not powering one whole sub.....to eliminate this.....u have to buy a 4 channel amp for the speakers....and another mono amp...for the other sub...your only powering 500 watts out of a capable 1000 watts for both subs...jus letting you know....it'll sound like a whole new system.......

Stealth CL

ill sell u my power ackoustics 5 farad cap if you want , ive had for just under a year works great. and digital

Spoon

I'll take a wild guess here and say the opposite. I'm gonna bet that the amp output / speaker power handling mismatch is overcompensated for by the bass boost, jacked. If so, then the actual current draw is much greater than would appear based on the specs. If not, then I'm wrong, but just throwing it out there.

Rusky

I may be way off topic but I had serious fuse and cut out problems with my TR880 (880 watts) at moderate volumes. I spoke with Soundstream to try to figure out what some of my buttons did so I could try to adjust things (the manual showed different configuration then what was actually on the amp) and the rep said, "since you're not competing and you have a sealed box (rather then ported), you don't need to worry about those buttons." Not very helpful. THen I realized the knob I had turned all the way up was the bass boost and the buttons were the frequency boost. As soon as I turned the "boost" down and turned off the way low frequency peak buttons, the cutting out and fuse blowing went away. The sound improved dramatically though the skull-crushing vibration reduced to a pleasant neck massage.

The boost frequency was actually even lower then the musical tone of the bass but it was still causing massive power increases to the sub. And at times I would literally cringe from the pressure even though the volume was tolerable.

If you have your sub signal low passed, turn off the boost