Audio upgrade, anybody try this?
#1
Audio upgrade, anybody try this?
I saw this on the net with regards to adding an amp. I might want to add an amp and sub his summer and this company says they have what I need. But I dont get their lingo. So maybe someone can check it out and see what you all think.
This ia a quote from their email I got """With the use of the Powerdriver you can add aftermarket amps and speakers to
your stock Bose system. For ease of installation we have a cablelink harness that will plug into your car harness, so you do not have to do any cutting or splicing."""
Just wondering where this plugged into. Behind the head unit? Does this mean that the stock amp and speakers will work and this is just adding a second amp to power a sub? Or what..
What do you all think of this? Think it would work? Sound good?
http://www.linkmeup.com/cablelink.htm
Thanks all...!
This ia a quote from their email I got """With the use of the Powerdriver you can add aftermarket amps and speakers to
your stock Bose system. For ease of installation we have a cablelink harness that will plug into your car harness, so you do not have to do any cutting or splicing."""
Just wondering where this plugged into. Behind the head unit? Does this mean that the stock amp and speakers will work and this is just adding a second amp to power a sub? Or what..
What do you all think of this? Think it would work? Sound good?
http://www.linkmeup.com/cablelink.htm
Thanks all...!
#2
Got this off their site.
"Each CableLink Harness is 18 inches long and comes with 4 Gold RCA's and instructions for your particular installation. Just remove the harness from the factory radio and plug into the CableLink Harness, and the other end into the PowerDriver PD4. Then connect your new amp to the PowerDriver PD4 RCA outputs, and your done. "
Sounds like a nice solution but I would want to talk to someone from their company before actually purchasing one. Seems to me like it is some sort of "Y" adapter for the output of the headunit.
"Each CableLink Harness is 18 inches long and comes with 4 Gold RCA's and instructions for your particular installation. Just remove the harness from the factory radio and plug into the CableLink Harness, and the other end into the PowerDriver PD4. Then connect your new amp to the PowerDriver PD4 RCA outputs, and your done. "
Sounds like a nice solution but I would want to talk to someone from their company before actually purchasing one. Seems to me like it is some sort of "Y" adapter for the output of the headunit.
#4
Here is another reply that they gave me:
The Powerdriver is what allows you to add a second amp and keep you stock system. The cablelink plugs between your head unit and car harness. We tap of the harness with the audio inputs and power and ground needed to operate the Powerdriver. Any other information in the harness stays.
So it sounds like a splice that you end up with a set of RCA's
Here is a pic of the harness. I am not sure what the PowerDriver does then...
The Powerdriver is what allows you to add a second amp and keep you stock system. The cablelink plugs between your head unit and car harness. We tap of the harness with the audio inputs and power and ground needed to operate the Powerdriver. Any other information in the harness stays.
So it sounds like a splice that you end up with a set of RCA's
Here is a pic of the harness. I am not sure what the PowerDriver does then...
#7
Yeah, but that is all that an installer is going to do, isnt it?
What are the 4 RCS'a for?
Black wire is ground?
Blue is the remote turn on?
And the RCA's?
Humm, might be intresting. Anyone know what the PowerDriver is for then?
What are the 4 RCS'a for?
Black wire is ground?
Blue is the remote turn on?
And the RCA's?
Humm, might be intresting. Anyone know what the PowerDriver is for then?
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#8
Hey guys.
I just got off the phone with the owner of the Company. He was very excited that I had the ability to reach all of you. Thsi is what info I got for you.
Again the harness plugs in behind the stereo - that was a given.
Then i plugs into the PowerDriver which is basically a pre-amp unit that can control the output to the amp. The problem with the stock set-up as many of you have found out is that you cant find a good place to place a lead tot he amp. Thsi takes care of that. The unit has an adjustable VOLT output to the amp, which controls the amps output. Similiar to the adjustment knob that some of you guys have.
He was very helpful and said that if I could get some of you intresred, he could give us a 20% purchase discount on his products.
So I think that I am going to get a set-up from him and see how it works. It basically was a plug and play system. All you need to do is run power from the battery to your amp, run the RCA's and remote from the driver to the amp and pop in your sub or speakers.
He has a 2 channel (for a sub) or a 4 channel system if you want to do all 4 speakers.
Thought I would share this with you all.
I am going to chat with the moderators and see where I can post a thread for a group buy / discount for his stuff. In the end it would be around 100 bucks I think for the wiring and the Driver (pre-amp) So let me know if you all might be intrested.
I just got off the phone with the owner of the Company. He was very excited that I had the ability to reach all of you. Thsi is what info I got for you.
Again the harness plugs in behind the stereo - that was a given.
Then i plugs into the PowerDriver which is basically a pre-amp unit that can control the output to the amp. The problem with the stock set-up as many of you have found out is that you cant find a good place to place a lead tot he amp. Thsi takes care of that. The unit has an adjustable VOLT output to the amp, which controls the amps output. Similiar to the adjustment knob that some of you guys have.
He was very helpful and said that if I could get some of you intresred, he could give us a 20% purchase discount on his products.
So I think that I am going to get a set-up from him and see how it works. It basically was a plug and play system. All you need to do is run power from the battery to your amp, run the RCA's and remote from the driver to the amp and pop in your sub or speakers.
He has a 2 channel (for a sub) or a 4 channel system if you want to do all 4 speakers.
Thought I would share this with you all.
I am going to chat with the moderators and see where I can post a thread for a group buy / discount for his stuff. In the end it would be around 100 bucks I think for the wiring and the Driver (pre-amp) So let me know if you all might be intrested.
#14
Yeah, I am gonna buy one next week and let you all know. If you all are intrested, he said he will give me a discount code that I can give to you all.
But I still need an amp, so I can install it, but I wont be able to bump it till I get one.
But even 100 bucks is well worth the time it would take me to find the correct wires and wire them up. I am gonna mount the amp and the PowerDriver on the amp box itself. But it is way to cold to be working outside on my car. This is a spring project for me.
Mantis - Do you think it is worth it, seeing as you have already done it? Is 100 Bucks worth your time? And also did you put in the control knob?
But I still need an amp, so I can install it, but I wont be able to bump it till I get one.
But even 100 bucks is well worth the time it would take me to find the correct wires and wire them up. I am gonna mount the amp and the PowerDriver on the amp box itself. But it is way to cold to be working outside on my car. This is a spring project for me.
Mantis - Do you think it is worth it, seeing as you have already done it? Is 100 Bucks worth your time? And also did you put in the control knob?
#15
Originally posted by CLean
Mantis - Do you think it is worth it, seeing as you have already done it? Is 100 Bucks worth your time? And also did you put in the control knob?
Mantis - Do you think it is worth it, seeing as you have already done it? Is 100 Bucks worth your time? And also did you put in the control knob?
#16
I tried this back in '01 and he didn't have a harness for our cars yet. I had to send it back to him. It is MORE THAN WORTH the money if he has it though. It would save hours of work in splicing time. I did keep a pd2 and putting that in line with my sub input really did increase the levels to the sub. I am very satisfied with it.
#17
so im looking to install a sub box with an amp and leave my factory radio in and just use a bass knob, so this is what i would need right? to make it easier?
how much is this thing and when can we get this GB going?
how much is this thing and when can we get this GB going?
#18
Well, wel dont all need to call and buy it at once. I told him that i would get a few of us together and order around the same time. I can give you his name and number and you can order it yourself to get the ball rolling. I am gonna order one tomorrow.
And yes, All you need to do is remove your radio, plug the wiring in, re-install your radio, plug the wires you just installed into the PowerDriver, and from there hook it up to your own AMP. Nothing touches your STOCK system. The only thing you need is an amp, sub, and a power wire coming from your batter or power sourse.
Let me knwo when you wanna order it.!!! Like Mantis said, this is basically what he did, but much faster and easier.
And yes, since 2001 he has made the correct wiring setup for our CL's...
And yes, All you need to do is remove your radio, plug the wiring in, re-install your radio, plug the wires you just installed into the PowerDriver, and from there hook it up to your own AMP. Nothing touches your STOCK system. The only thing you need is an amp, sub, and a power wire coming from your batter or power sourse.
Let me knwo when you wanna order it.!!! Like Mantis said, this is basically what he did, but much faster and easier.
And yes, since 2001 he has made the correct wiring setup for our CL's...
#19
Sounds no different than a PAC line level converter, it's just already spliced in without the bulky packaging (resistors/etc). The adjustment knob should allow you to attenuate the output voltage being downgraded into the RCA's.
What you guys have to realize is that the problem with our headunits is the lack of power. Conventional head units have buil in amplification capable of driving all the speakers. The Bose setup is very low amplification since it's externally amplified. With a conventional line level converter, it downgrades the voltage to the RCA's too much, rendering the method useless. Provided this setup is done right, with the "full" setting being "0" reduction in voltage, then your good to go. Of course you don't want to run "0" reduction, but gives you the flexability to match the line level voltage to the inputs of the amp.
What you guys have to realize is that the problem with our headunits is the lack of power. Conventional head units have buil in amplification capable of driving all the speakers. The Bose setup is very low amplification since it's externally amplified. With a conventional line level converter, it downgrades the voltage to the RCA's too much, rendering the method useless. Provided this setup is done right, with the "full" setting being "0" reduction in voltage, then your good to go. Of course you don't want to run "0" reduction, but gives you the flexability to match the line level voltage to the inputs of the amp.
#21
This is one of the items needed to install just a sub or subs.
" The PowerDriver PD2 two channel Bose Interface allows you to add an amp and a subwoofer to an existing Bose System, using our CableLink Harness for your particular car. The harness will keep the installation clean and simple (no cutting). The 35 Hz Bass EQ is fully adjustable from 0 to +10dB and the outputs adjustable from a decrease of -8 to a gain of +10 dB.
The PowerDriver PD2 also provides you with a versatile line preamplifier for adapting and interfacing to a wide variety of auto sound electronic products, and solves a number of related problems often encountered in more sophisticated installations.
Use it in any car stereo system to increase or decrease the level to your amps. This makes for a much better signal to noise ratio, and decreases distortion in any system."
" The PowerDriver PD2 two channel Bose Interface allows you to add an amp and a subwoofer to an existing Bose System, using our CableLink Harness for your particular car. The harness will keep the installation clean and simple (no cutting). The 35 Hz Bass EQ is fully adjustable from 0 to +10dB and the outputs adjustable from a decrease of -8 to a gain of +10 dB.
The PowerDriver PD2 also provides you with a versatile line preamplifier for adapting and interfacing to a wide variety of auto sound electronic products, and solves a number of related problems often encountered in more sophisticated installations.
Use it in any car stereo system to increase or decrease the level to your amps. This makes for a much better signal to noise ratio, and decreases distortion in any system."
#26
Originally posted by CLean
It may be... Depends on your installer. Are you planning on having them put in a adjust control?
It may be... Depends on your installer. Are you planning on having them put in a adjust control?
To be honest, I have no idea if I need that or not, I am completely new to A/V upgrades. I am assuming this is a knob to control the wattage to my sub? Is this something that makes a big difference? I just want a cost effective solution for some decent bass and the Navi conversion to work.
#27
Sure. Not 100% of the price. But I know that the wiring harness was listed as $42.95 and the PowerDriver was $99. So take off 20% and you get about 113.50. Plus shipping. No clue on what shipping is going to be.
Here is the link to the wiring harness CLAB98-R ($42.95)
http://www.linkmeup.com
- click CABLELINK on the left
- Our piece is the last one listed
- Next click on the PD2
- This is the powerdriver with the adjustable controls for 2 channels or a sub
(The PD4 is for 4 channels, as if you were just going to re-amp the 4 speakers in the car)
You guys want to do it? I am really thinking about getting the Infinity BassLink now. It would be easy enough to do ourselves..
Let me know and I can give you the contact info.
Here is the link to the wiring harness CLAB98-R ($42.95)
http://www.linkmeup.com
- click CABLELINK on the left
- Our piece is the last one listed
- Next click on the PD2
- This is the powerdriver with the adjustable controls for 2 channels or a sub
(The PD4 is for 4 channels, as if you were just going to re-amp the 4 speakers in the car)
You guys want to do it? I am really thinking about getting the Infinity BassLink now. It would be easy enough to do ourselves..
Let me know and I can give you the contact info.
#28
Well I have no clue about the Navi, but you should let your installer decide. If you were doing it yourself, then I would get this. Save you a couple of hours maybe. But what you pay an installer to might be a wash for the wiring set-up.
#29
A remote sub control is different than what is being offered by the PD2. The rsc is used to turn your bass up and down from the levels that already there. The PD2 increases, decreases, and crosses-over the levels that are already there.
You can easily use both if you'd like, or you can use neither. The most beneficial thing that is being offered here is the harness. It will allow you to QUICKLY hook up your system and avoid having to CUT ANY WIRES.
Any good amp can replicate that which is being offered by the PD2 and almost all amps have an available bass knob.
You can easily use both if you'd like, or you can use neither. The most beneficial thing that is being offered here is the harness. It will allow you to QUICKLY hook up your system and avoid having to CUT ANY WIRES.
Any good amp can replicate that which is being offered by the PD2 and almost all amps have an available bass knob.
#30
As for the navi conversion remeber there are 3 aspects.
1. Factory Navi
2. Video "switch"
3. Audio Input
1. You must have this to convert it of course!
2. You have to purchase a "switch" (aka a decoder) to go between your navi screen and the navi computer. This will allow you to switch what you are watching on the screen between the navi computer and your personal dvd player or any video source you connect. The switch is actually composed of a switch and a decoder that will change the output from your dvd into one just like the output from the navi computer because the screen only takes one kind of input.
3. Don't ask any questions, just contact streeteffectz and get his input into the back of the headunit. It will give a pair of RCA's inputted directly into the headunit and the quality gets no better!
1. Factory Navi
2. Video "switch"
3. Audio Input
1. You must have this to convert it of course!
2. You have to purchase a "switch" (aka a decoder) to go between your navi screen and the navi computer. This will allow you to switch what you are watching on the screen between the navi computer and your personal dvd player or any video source you connect. The switch is actually composed of a switch and a decoder that will change the output from your dvd into one just like the output from the navi computer because the screen only takes one kind of input.
3. Don't ask any questions, just contact streeteffectz and get his input into the back of the headunit. It will give a pair of RCA's inputted directly into the headunit and the quality gets no better!
#31
Originally posted by bl^5
A remote sub control is different than what is being offered by the PD2. The rsc is used to turn your bass up and down from the levels that already there. The PD2 increases, decreases, and crosses-over the levels that are already there.
You can easily use both if you'd like, or you can use neither. The most beneficial thing that is being offered here is the harness. It will allow you to QUICKLY hook up your system and avoid having to CUT ANY WIRES.
Any good amp can replicate that which is being offered by the PD2 and almost all amps have an available bass knob.
A remote sub control is different than what is being offered by the PD2. The rsc is used to turn your bass up and down from the levels that already there. The PD2 increases, decreases, and crosses-over the levels that are already there.
You can easily use both if you'd like, or you can use neither. The most beneficial thing that is being offered here is the harness. It will allow you to QUICKLY hook up your system and avoid having to CUT ANY WIRES.
Any good amp can replicate that which is being offered by the PD2 and almost all amps have an available bass knob.
Thanks for the info. Definitely not what I need.
#32
Originally posted by bl^5
As for the navi conversion remeber there are 3 aspects.
1. Factory Navi
2. Video "switch"
3. Audio Input
1. You must have this to convert it of course!
2. You have to purchase a "switch" (aka a decoder) to go between your navi screen and the navi computer. This will allow you to switch what you are watching on the screen between the navi computer and your personal dvd player or any video source you connect. The switch is actually composed of a switch and a decoder that will change the output from your dvd into one just like the output from the navi computer because the screen only takes one kind of input.
3. Don't ask any questions, just contact streeteffectz and get his input into the back of the headunit. It will give a pair of RCA's inputted directly into the headunit and the quality gets no better!
As for the navi conversion remeber there are 3 aspects.
1. Factory Navi
2. Video "switch"
3. Audio Input
1. You must have this to convert it of course!
2. You have to purchase a "switch" (aka a decoder) to go between your navi screen and the navi computer. This will allow you to switch what you are watching on the screen between the navi computer and your personal dvd player or any video source you connect. The switch is actually composed of a switch and a decoder that will change the output from your dvd into one just like the output from the navi computer because the screen only takes one kind of input.
3. Don't ask any questions, just contact streeteffectz and get his input into the back of the headunit. It will give a pair of RCA's inputted directly into the headunit and the quality gets no better!
Thanks for the rundown. Actually, I picked up the AVelectronic kit w/ the blitzsafe adaptor. I was able to grab it used, so I didnt bother with Streeteffectz.
I would totally buy this harness if I was doing the install myself, but it's not possible, sounds like it saves a good amount of time. OK this is getting OT, no more posts for me on this thread!! I'm out....
#33
so 10 hrs later and im still at work and im kind of confusing myself about all this stuff. can someone give me a no or yes answer to my questions.
if im putting in 2 subs with an amp and leaving the head unit stock, but just installing a bass knob, is it necessary to buy this. and it will what, cut off time for installing?
if im putting in 2 subs with an amp and leaving the head unit stock, but just installing a bass knob, is it necessary to buy this. and it will what, cut off time for installing?
#34
Yes, the wiring harness will definately save you time. The PowerDriver will allow you to tune the power going to your amp up and down to adjust output. This way it is not over powering but can still hit like you want it to. The knob that you want to install will only work the subs volume.
I am getting both. He said that if you get it and decide you dont like it ot just dont want it. he will refund your money.
I am getting both. He said that if you get it and decide you dont like it ot just dont want it. he will refund your money.
#36
Anybody want to take advantage of the 20% discount? I am going to order mine on Monday. Everyone who has already dont their own install whishes they would have had this when they put there systems in.. So it sounds like a real time saver...
#38
I kinda already did. For both pieces it will be about 113 plus shipping. So you can either take it for what it is, or wait till Monday and see what my final price comes to.
#40
Originally posted by mantis23
Assuming its a good product, with good quality, **** yeah its worth it. Control knob? You mean bass control knob? What knob are you referring to? It better not be MY knob! :gaylaugh:
Assuming its a good product, with good quality, **** yeah its worth it. Control knob? You mean bass control knob? What knob are you referring to? It better not be MY knob! :gaylaugh:
***BUT I checked the wiring on my harness against my HELMS manual and found two of the wires reversed. Note that these are made by hand so this could easily happen. I had to fix my wiring before installing mine.
Since I fixed mine, it worked fine.