Anyone Run Subs In Their TSX? SPECS -CLICK-
#1
Anyone Run Subs In Their TSX? SPECS -CLICK-
My Capacitor Just Died It cost 150 normal price but good thing I paid 45 dollars from circuit city. Ima get it replaced for fixed and sell it for 45. Now I am thinking about running subwoofer system without it.
Pioneer 760p and 390 RMS runs at 30 amps
10 inch Alpine Type-R 4ohms
Does anyone here run 1000 watts or less?
Do you use a capacitor?
Will not running a capacitor cause the battery to have a shorter life?
Any chances of it wrecking the alternator? I have heard subs wreck it.
Knowing the TSX alternator outputs 105 amps
105 amps - 30 amps= 75 amps
Will 75 amps cover all the devices in the TSX?
I just bought a new Interstate battery cause the capacitor died and wouldnt auto shutdown and stayed on all night.
Last Question
ALTERNATOR makes power sends it to BATTERY ONLY? Is the positive terminal the node? Then on the positive terminal is there a wire comming from the alternator and another wire goes to the electrical system of the car?
Or is there 2 wires comming out from the alternator one to battery and one to electrical system? wow this is confusing.. to ask
Pioneer 760p and 390 RMS runs at 30 amps
10 inch Alpine Type-R 4ohms
Does anyone here run 1000 watts or less?
Do you use a capacitor?
Will not running a capacitor cause the battery to have a shorter life?
Any chances of it wrecking the alternator? I have heard subs wreck it.
Knowing the TSX alternator outputs 105 amps
105 amps - 30 amps= 75 amps
Will 75 amps cover all the devices in the TSX?
I just bought a new Interstate battery cause the capacitor died and wouldnt auto shutdown and stayed on all night.
Last Question
ALTERNATOR makes power sends it to BATTERY ONLY? Is the positive terminal the node? Then on the positive terminal is there a wire comming from the alternator and another wire goes to the electrical system of the car?
Or is there 2 wires comming out from the alternator one to battery and one to electrical system? wow this is confusing.. to ask
#3
Need more room in
iTrader: (6)
Cap = waste of money imo... you're better off spending that money to do the big 3
Like a bandaid, it just covers the the problem.
I'm running 1600rms @ 1ohm to my 2 10's and 400w (total) rms to my speakers.
The only electrical upgrades I have is the big 3, and a optima yellow top (D35 -- biggest battery that will fit our engine bay, rated 800cca i believe). I've been running this setup for almost a year now, and I have zero light dimming and/or electrical problems.
On your alternator, one wire is the positive, which is connected to the positive terminal of your battery (after passing through the fuse box)
The second wire is a ground to chassis, located just to the left of the alternator (you can see it)
Suggestion: Get rid of the Cap.
Buy some 0ga wire (~15ft), a fuse holder w/ 300-350amp fuse
Upgrade your:
Battery negative to chassis
Alternator ground to chassis
Alternator positive to battery positive (with fuse holder <1ft from battery)
The fuse holder is not mandatory, but it is highly suggested to get. If your connection shorts without it, you'll risk burning your car down.
My setup:
2-10" SSA Icons Dual 1ohm
Hertz HSK165
Hertz HCX165
Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D
Sundown Audio SAX-100.4
All doors/trunk sound deadened
Mercman's custom amp bypass + balun
Optima YT35
edit: and if you havn't done so already, if you are really running 1000rms, it would be safer to run 0ga than 4ga (assuming you've got a 4ga run). It'll allow better electricity flow as well.
Like a bandaid, it just covers the the problem.
I'm running 1600rms @ 1ohm to my 2 10's and 400w (total) rms to my speakers.
The only electrical upgrades I have is the big 3, and a optima yellow top (D35 -- biggest battery that will fit our engine bay, rated 800cca i believe). I've been running this setup for almost a year now, and I have zero light dimming and/or electrical problems.
On your alternator, one wire is the positive, which is connected to the positive terminal of your battery (after passing through the fuse box)
The second wire is a ground to chassis, located just to the left of the alternator (you can see it)
Suggestion: Get rid of the Cap.
Buy some 0ga wire (~15ft), a fuse holder w/ 300-350amp fuse
Upgrade your:
Battery negative to chassis
Alternator ground to chassis
Alternator positive to battery positive (with fuse holder <1ft from battery)
The fuse holder is not mandatory, but it is highly suggested to get. If your connection shorts without it, you'll risk burning your car down.
My setup:
2-10" SSA Icons Dual 1ohm
Hertz HSK165
Hertz HCX165
Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D
Sundown Audio SAX-100.4
All doors/trunk sound deadened
Mercman's custom amp bypass + balun
Optima YT35
edit: and if you havn't done so already, if you are really running 1000rms, it would be safer to run 0ga than 4ga (assuming you've got a 4ga run). It'll allow better electricity flow as well.
Last edited by wong05tsx; 01-17-2009 at 12:49 PM.
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