Amp in "Protect" mode
Amp in "Protect" mode
I've had this setup for a while but when I installed my new hu i rewired the amp and then the amp cut off...
Set-Up:
2 12" Audiobahns in a sealed box
Sound Storm Laboratories Amp 1400W 2XChannel
Kenwood DNX5120 HU
The power and ground have not changed but believe the problem is when i re-wired the amp to the subs.
Before

After

The amp is in "protect" mode, and the manual says to turn the remote power off and on again to reset it. I tried that and so it says the problem could be more serious. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Set-Up:
2 12" Audiobahns in a sealed box
Sound Storm Laboratories Amp 1400W 2XChannel
Kenwood DNX5120 HU
The power and ground have not changed but believe the problem is when i re-wired the amp to the subs.
Before

After

The amp is in "protect" mode, and the manual says to turn the remote power off and on again to reset it. I tried that and so it says the problem could be more serious. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Yep, your problem is probably that your subs are now showing your amp a load that is lower than it's minimum impedance bridged. If you take it back to the way it was, and it works, you're good. If your re-wire it back to the way it was and your amp still stays off, you need a new one...
First thing I'd do is check the wires behind the headunit.
1) make sure everything is wired correctly.
2) make sure all exposed wires and RCA's are taped off with electrical tape.
I know this sounds dumb but did you unplug the battery while installing the headunit? It's Always a good practice just to be safe..
1) make sure everything is wired correctly.
2) make sure all exposed wires and RCA's are taped off with electrical tape.
I know this sounds dumb but did you unplug the battery while installing the headunit? It's Always a good practice just to be safe..
First thing I'd do is check the wires behind the headunit.
1) make sure everything is wired correctly.
2) make sure all exposed wires and RCA's are taped off with electrical tape.
I know this sounds dumb but did you unplug the battery while installing the headunit? It's Always a good practice just to be safe..
1) make sure everything is wired correctly.
2) make sure all exposed wires and RCA's are taped off with electrical tape.
I know this sounds dumb but did you unplug the battery while installing the headunit? It's Always a good practice just to be safe..
Haha, yeah its the amp.
But I did forget to clarify that everything was working fine after I installed the HU and rewired the amp. It was hitting crazy hard for about a week or so then just yesterday i turned the car on and there was no bass.
Thanks <mattastick> I'll try wiring it the way i originallly did and see if it works. I'm hoping that its the amp cause it sounded great wired like that! The amp is a no-name brand and i got it free with the subs. I'm just disappointed that it teased me by slammin so hard for a while then just crapped out on me.
Will I have the same problem with a new amp? If I were to wire it the new way will i just keep burnin out amps?
But I did forget to clarify that everything was working fine after I installed the HU and rewired the amp. It was hitting crazy hard for about a week or so then just yesterday i turned the car on and there was no bass.
Thanks <mattastick> I'll try wiring it the way i originallly did and see if it works. I'm hoping that its the amp cause it sounded great wired like that! The amp is a no-name brand and i got it free with the subs. I'm just disappointed that it teased me by slammin so hard for a while then just crapped out on me.
Will I have the same problem with a new amp? If I were to wire it the new way will i just keep burnin out amps?
Trending Topics
most amp's have this also from a shitty ground.. make sure you grounded to a clear, completley metal surface. paint will fuck up your ground too so make sure to scrape it clean.
That was the first thing I thought of. But i've had the same ground for the system since I put it in. I grounded the samp directly to the trunk of my car. Bolt right into the metal...
Technical Specification
* Sensitivity: 92.1 dB
* RMS Power Range : 400 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 800 Watts
* Impedance: Dual 4 Ohm
* Low Frequency response: 24 Hz
* High Frequency Response: 1000 Hz
* Diameter: 12 Inch
Features
* Optimized for Sound Quality
* PHAT Foam Surround
* Non-Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Cone
* KM3 Coated Cone for Low Cone Distortion
* Flame Design Chrome Stamped Steel Basket
* Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coil
* 2" 4-Layer ASV Voice Coil
* Lug-Lock Terminals
* Mounting Depth: 5 1/4"
* Hole Cutout: 10 7/8"
* Outer Diameter: 12 1/2"
* Sensitivity: 92.1 dB
* RMS Power Range : 400 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 800 Watts
* Impedance: Dual 4 Ohm
* Low Frequency response: 24 Hz
* High Frequency Response: 1000 Hz
* Diameter: 12 Inch
Features
* Optimized for Sound Quality
* PHAT Foam Surround
* Non-Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Cone
* KM3 Coated Cone for Low Cone Distortion
* Flame Design Chrome Stamped Steel Basket
* Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coil
* 2" 4-Layer ASV Voice Coil
* Lug-Lock Terminals
* Mounting Depth: 5 1/4"
* Hole Cutout: 10 7/8"
* Outer Diameter: 12 1/2"
my guess is you fried it I've done the same to a few amps in the past thought to myself oh it will be ok if I'm careful eh not so much. but yea you should be able to see some scorching on the board. may have to take it apart from the housing to see it. but I bet something is blown out.
my guess is you fried it I've done the same to a few amps in the past thought to myself oh it will be ok if I'm careful eh not so much. but yea you should be able to see some scorching on the board. may have to take it apart from the housing to see it. but I bet something is blown out.
And if those subs are dual 4 ohm, u more than likely had it wired down to a 1 ohm load and that amp is 2 ohm stable stereo and 4 ohm bridged, not doggin the amp bro but with that being a cheap amp the fuses prolly didnt do their job and u fried the amp. Ive seen several cheaper amps do it.
And if those subs are dual 4 ohm, u more than likely had it wired down to a 1 ohm load and that amp is 2 ohm stable stereo and 4 ohm bridged, not doggin the amp bro but with that being a cheap amp the fuses prolly didnt do their job and u fried the amp. Ive seen several cheaper amps do it.
Part of the problem is i have no idea what people are talking about when you say 1 ohm 2 ohm, bridged, or any of that stuff. i just wired it how it needed to be when i first put the system in. Buy at Best Buy said, "hey i can wire this so it hits harder!" I said cool, and then fried the bastard...
Here is a good wiring wizard for those not as informed if changing the ohm http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...s.asp?Q=2&I=22
Here is a good wiring wizard for those not as informed if changing the ohm http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...s.asp?Q=2&I=22
Here is a good wiring wizard for those not as informed if changing the ohm http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...s.asp?Q=2&I=22
By changing the speaker wires around it wouldn't fry your amp. Something else happened. If they installed your headunit I would've gone back at them. Something zapped it.. Did you check your ground?
Hey jonesi, running an amp at too low of an impedance level will break things... It looks like his subs are single 4's, and he bridged the amp (subs in parallel) and ended up with a single 2 ohm load. I'd guess the amp can't play bridged at a 2 ohm load... This means bad things for the amp...
Get a good DMM (multimeter) and set it to the symbol that is the greek letter Omega. This measures resistance. Then place the red wire on the positive lead of the sub, and the black wire on the negative side of the sub. A resistance will show, and if you post that here, we'll be able to help you with amp suggestions and such...
Hey jonesi, running an amp at too low of an impedance level will break things... It looks like his subs are single 4's, and he bridged the amp (subs in parallel) and ended up with a single 2 ohm load. I'd guess the amp can't play bridged at a 2 ohm load... This means bad things for the amp...
Maybe I'm old school in my thinking but from what I always understood is running a amp too low will put it in protect mode but it shouldn't damage the internals (components, resistors etc). I could be wrong, i've been wrong before. I could see if he ran it the way it was for a extended period of time it could damage the internals. But he said when he hooked it up it just didn't work. Doesn't seem to add up but I guess anything is possible.
Get a good DMM (multimeter) and set it to the symbol that is the greek letter Omega. This measures resistance. Then place the red wire on the positive lead of the sub, and the black wire on the negative side of the sub. A resistance will show, and if you post that here, we'll be able to help you with amp suggestions and such...
Maybe I'm old school in my thinking but from what I always understood is running a amp too low will put it in protect mode but it shouldn't damage the internals (components, resistors etc). I could be wrong, i've been wrong before. I could see if he ran it the way it was for a extended period of time it could damage the internals. But he said when he hooked it up it just didn't work. Doesn't seem to add up but I guess anything is possible.
Maybe I'm old school in my thinking but from what I always understood is running a amp too low will put it in protect mode but it shouldn't damage the internals (components, resistors etc). I could be wrong, i've been wrong before. I could see if he ran it the way it was for a extended period of time it could damage the internals. But he said when he hooked it up it just didn't work. Doesn't seem to add up but I guess anything is possible.
Here's how it can damage internals, especially if your electrical system isn't up to par. As you drop the impedance, the amp needs more power to function correctly. If you're running it at a lower than rated impedance with enough electrical, you should be fine (most Rockfords, especially the old school ones, will do this). But, if you don't have enough current to supply it, it's the same thing as running an amp at very low voltage levels... This is terrible for the amp, and could very easily blow the amp's internals...
I understand it's possible and get the idea I'm just saying in this case something doesn't add up..
Haha, yeah its the amp.
But I did forget to clarify that everything was working fine after I installed the HU and rewired the amp. It was hitting crazy hard for about a week or so then just yesterday i turned the car on and there was no bass.
Thanks <mattastick> I'll try wiring it the way i originallly did and see if it works. I'm hoping that its the amp cause it sounded great wired like that! The amp is a no-name brand and i got it free with the subs. I'm just disappointed that it teased me by slammin so hard for a while then just crapped out on me.
Will I have the same problem with a new amp? If I were to wire it the new way will i just keep burnin out amps?
But I did forget to clarify that everything was working fine after I installed the HU and rewired the amp. It was hitting crazy hard for about a week or so then just yesterday i turned the car on and there was no bass.
Thanks <mattastick> I'll try wiring it the way i originallly did and see if it works. I'm hoping that its the amp cause it sounded great wired like that! The amp is a no-name brand and i got it free with the subs. I'm just disappointed that it teased me by slammin so hard for a while then just crapped out on me.
Will I have the same problem with a new amp? If I were to wire it the new way will i just keep burnin out amps?
Yeah I def think its FUBAR'd. But it was working for about a week before it went. I thought I mentioned that in my first post. Sorry for the confusion. I'm looking into a new one right now, something with a little more punch and that will hopefully hold up!


check the ground