If I buy this terminal... How would I jumpstart my car if I needed to someday down the road?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=185-302

 

Well, I would attach the cable to the fuse box main input bolt tap instead of the terminal itself.

 

Lets assum I'm not sure where you are talking about... Where else can I clam the jumper cables on ?

 

If you can't fit jumper cables on you can use two peices of electric wire (like what your house is wired with) and just touch the tips anywhere on the terminals. The lowest rated electric wire in your house is 120 Volts which of course can easily handle 12 V passing through it in case you were wondering. Its nice for a back-up at the least...

 

Wire is not rated by voltage, but by current. There's a reason jumper cables spark and are so heavy guage....

 

voltage=current. either way you have an electric wire that can handle a max of 120 volts-15 amps and it can easily take 12 volts no problem. I've done it a ton of times.... and what do you mean there's a reason jumper cables spark???

 

I gave somebody a jump before and these are my terminals.......









I connected the cables to their car and held mine on the side of my terminals. I never opened them to clamp them on the terminlas though. I just touched it side of the clamp to the terminal and had them start their car.

In all honesty though, if you're going to canstantly need to jump your or other cars you shouldn't even be bothered with aftermarket terminals.

 

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what guage are the wires in that pix?

any1 got pix of a 0/1 terminal or a good recommendation of what to get?

 

Take your underhopod fuse box cover off, and look at the big metal tap with the feed from the battery on it.

 

It's all 4 gauge.

 

You are going to hurt yourself with that kind of thought.

Voltage has nothing to do with wire guage.


If your concept was so easy, why don't high end-audiophiles use 12 guage house electrical wiring instead of 0 guage wiring?

 

Only if you have no idea what your doing will you get hurt, and if you have no idea what your doing you shouldn't be messing with it in the first place. If you read the original post question, the guy was asking for a way to jump with that type of terminal. I gave him a suggestion, I didn't say it's the best way to do it, just that it will work. If you don't believe it will work go try it (as long as you know what your doing) And as a licensed master electrician I would know that voltage definitely has a lot to do with wire gauge, along with other things of course. And as far as that last sentence is concerned, if you don't know the answer to that you shouldn't have even posted. Go study Ohm's Law.

 

I have 0 gauge

 

Ohm's law is actually V=IR....where V=voltage, I=Current in amps, and R=resistence in ohms....and yes it only takes 12 volts to start a car but it takes a hell of a lot more amps to crank it over. Even the little battery in our cars can put out something like 400-450 cold cranking amps. High current is what melts wires. Thats why you put a fuse on the main power wire for amps in a car. The common misconception is that the fuse is there to protect your amps but its real purpose is to protect the wire and prevent it from melting in case of a short.

 

i know this thread is old, but on the negative what are the two wires connecting to the terminal? Is that how it is on our car or is it for something aftermarket?

 

from the factory our car has two 4 gauge ground wires. One goes to the engine block and the other goes to the frame. My stereo system pulls over 250 amps of juice and the factory ground wire that goes to the frame started to melt. I notice this when the sub amp kept shutting off when played loud. So I replace the 4 gauge factory ground to frame with a 6'' 0 gauge wire. No more problems since.

 

u have an aftermarket alternator or some to be pulling 250 amps??

 

red