Adding 2 more amps.
Adding 2 more amps.
I got rid of my 12W7 becasue some guy offered me alot of money and I used 12 for about over a year and half. So I went ahead and got a 10w7 with a ported box now. My question is I want to add another 10w7, 500/1 and a 300/2. So thats a total of 1600+ watts RMS. I am not going to touch my SPX speaker or my 300/4 I am just gonna add the 300/2 to the kickpanels and in the kicks I plan to get the Alpine F-13ms
What electrical upgrades should I be looking at doing. I already have yellow top and a useless cap.
What electrical upgrades should I be looking at doing. I already have yellow top and a useless cap.
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 8
From: Portland OR US
According to the fusing recommendations from JL Audio, the 300/2 and 300/4 can pull 40A each, and the 500/1 can pull 50A. THat totals 130A just in amps. Since you probably put out about 100A from your alternator when it is cold (maybe that's hot, but I doubt it) and you can pull about 75A when everything stock is on (you are in Florida, so maybe you never defrost the R window...), according to that you would need a 200A alternator.
I'd like to mention that when the 300/2 and 300/4 are actively high-passed as yours will be, the current draw will decrease by a meaningful amount. Bass pulls the most current, and those amps that are playing with the bass filtered out first would probably run all day with a 20A fuse each, IMO.
Now the three "slash" amps you mention have two meaningful features:
1) They are stiffly regulated, and will make their rated power down to 11V.
2) They adjust to their speaker DC resistance on startup to put out the rated power - that is, they don't double into half the impedance, they put out their rated power into any rated impedance. If you connect the 500/1 to 2 ohms, it doesn't double to 1000 W, it readjusts its power supply rails and puts out 500W into 2 ohms.
Those points made, you might end up with a battery problem... but as long as your voltage is above 11V you will make rated power (but remember, as voltage goes down current draw goes up - that pesky Ohm's law...). Since 20A +20A + 50A is only 90A, and I think the car can pull ~70A, an aftermarket 150A upgraded alternator would be fine, if you decided to do that. You would not need to look for something bigger - 150A wold be OK.
I'd like to mention that when the 300/2 and 300/4 are actively high-passed as yours will be, the current draw will decrease by a meaningful amount. Bass pulls the most current, and those amps that are playing with the bass filtered out first would probably run all day with a 20A fuse each, IMO.
Now the three "slash" amps you mention have two meaningful features:
1) They are stiffly regulated, and will make their rated power down to 11V.
2) They adjust to their speaker DC resistance on startup to put out the rated power - that is, they don't double into half the impedance, they put out their rated power into any rated impedance. If you connect the 500/1 to 2 ohms, it doesn't double to 1000 W, it readjusts its power supply rails and puts out 500W into 2 ohms.
Those points made, you might end up with a battery problem... but as long as your voltage is above 11V you will make rated power (but remember, as voltage goes down current draw goes up - that pesky Ohm's law...). Since 20A +20A + 50A is only 90A, and I think the car can pull ~70A, an aftermarket 150A upgraded alternator would be fine, if you decided to do that. You would not need to look for something bigger - 150A wold be OK.
Boomer SOONER
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 14
From: McKinney, TX
we have been talking about this alot lately. you will need a more powerfull alternator. You can get the stock one re-wound up to 190 amps. that is way plenty for what you want. just be sure to find a reputable shop that offers a warranty because re-wound alternators usually dont last as long. you stock alternator puts out about 105 amps as it is now.
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 8
From: Portland OR US
Originally Posted by elduderino
According to the fusing recommendations from JL Audio, the 300/2 and 300/4 can pull 40A each, and the 500/1 can pull 50A. THat totals 130A just in amps. Since you probably put out about 100A from your alternator when it is cold (maybe that's hot, but I doubt it) and you can pull about 75A when everything stock is on (you are in Florida, so maybe you never defrost the R window...), according to that you would need a 200A alternator.
I'd like to mention that when the 300/2 and 300/4 are actively high-passed as yours will be, the current draw will decrease by a meaningful amount. Bass pulls the most current, and those amps that are playing with the bass filtered out first would probably run all day with a 20A fuse each, IMO.
Now the three "slash" amps you mention have two meaningful features:
1) They are stiffly regulated, and will make their rated power down to 11V.
2) They adjust to their speaker DC resistance on startup to put out the rated power - that is, they don't double into half the impedance, they put out their rated power into any rated impedance. If you connect the 500/1 to 2 ohms, it doesn't double to 1000 W, it readjusts its power supply rails and puts out 500W into 2 ohms.
Those points made, you might end up with a battery problem... but as long as your voltage is above 11V you will make rated power (but remember, as voltage goes down current draw goes up - that pesky Ohm's law...). Since 20A +20A + 50A is only 90A, and I think the car can pull ~70A, an aftermarket 150A upgraded alternator would be fine, if you decided to do that. You would not need to look for something bigger - 150A wold be OK.
I'd like to mention that when the 300/2 and 300/4 are actively high-passed as yours will be, the current draw will decrease by a meaningful amount. Bass pulls the most current, and those amps that are playing with the bass filtered out first would probably run all day with a 20A fuse each, IMO.
Now the three "slash" amps you mention have two meaningful features:
1) They are stiffly regulated, and will make their rated power down to 11V.
2) They adjust to their speaker DC resistance on startup to put out the rated power - that is, they don't double into half the impedance, they put out their rated power into any rated impedance. If you connect the 500/1 to 2 ohms, it doesn't double to 1000 W, it readjusts its power supply rails and puts out 500W into 2 ohms.
Those points made, you might end up with a battery problem... but as long as your voltage is above 11V you will make rated power (but remember, as voltage goes down current draw goes up - that pesky Ohm's law...). Since 20A +20A + 50A is only 90A, and I think the car can pull ~70A, an aftermarket 150A upgraded alternator would be fine, if you decided to do that. You would not need to look for something bigger - 150A wold be OK.
Hey man thanx for the help. Acutally I am using 2 500/1.
So my amps will pull a total of 180amps max, correct. I have been thinking and I concluded that this will be a very expensive upgrade. Heres the breakdown
Buying two more amps
$700 to $850
The Sub
$400
The box for 2 of them ported
$250
More stinger Expert RCA
est $100
Another amp rack on the other side of the trunk
$150
Extra battery and alt installed
$500
Misc.
$50 to $200
This is my amp rack right now
http://www.ultaudio.com/pages/Detailed/380.html
and If I do add the 2 more JL amps I want the mirror image on the other side of the trunk. I mean it gets plenty loud right now and even SQ is awesome. I might just leave it alone for now then.
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