TL: 99 tl, INSTALLING AFTERMARKET SYSTEM

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Old 07-09-2010, 07:56 PM
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99 tl, INSTALLING AFTERMARKET SYSTEM

okay...after reading a million pages of confusing info and a million dead links, all i want to know is if i can wire a new head unit up with out having to do anything with the bose amp/eq. i intend on running an amp from the HU with the pre amp out and running 2 jl 12's from it. ive installed systems in a million accords and civics but have never dealt with this bose crap and i could really use a simple answer. thanks guys.
Old 07-09-2010, 11:11 PM
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Bose EQ should be disabled, removed if you want to. The wiring harness you can buy (like I got on eBay for a few bucks) works just fine, without that EQ.

If you set the crossover point high (like 80hz) you can keep those Bose speakers. I kept them, powered them active, and installed active Dayton tweeters in the A-pillars. Helped the stage presence big time.

I used the link in the DIY for doing the install. Worked perfectly.
Old 07-09-2010, 11:48 PM
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okay thanks, i would love to install some tweeters as well. if my integra wasnt stolen on my birthday, stripped, and dumped on the interstate i could have used my memphis tweets..lol. i appreciate the response. im using an orion xt375 2 channel amp that i purchased used. im sure the amp is in working condition as i pulled it from my sisters civic, but what i found confusing is that both subs were wired from channel one positive to channel two positive on the amp....meaning the subs were both bridged in a sense,with the wires twisted together running unattached to any negative terminal. this makes no sense to me but perhaps you can shed some light?
Old 07-12-2010, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by yeedatoy
okay thanks, i would love to install some tweeters as well. if my integra wasnt stolen on my birthday, stripped, and dumped on the interstate i could have used my memphis tweets..lol. i appreciate the response. im using an orion xt375 2 channel amp that i purchased used. im sure the amp is in working condition as i pulled it from my sisters civic, but what i found confusing is that both subs were wired from channel one positive to channel two positive on the amp....meaning the subs were both bridged in a sense,with the wires twisted together running unattached to any negative terminal. this makes no sense to me but perhaps you can shed some light?


That's not how it works. The bridge rails need to be the ones used in a bridged configuration. Push-pull.

Typically one of the channels will have an inverted rail. So, it will be like L+ and R-.
Old 07-18-2010, 06:27 AM
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the oem bose speakers are 2ohm each, they tend to clip out the amp on aftermarket decks if you crank it up a bit.

also the oem sub in the back still works with the outputs from the deck, you just need to unplug the equalizer plug and find the wires (can't remember the colours off hand) and hook your sub output to it...then make sure ur remote turn on lead is hooked up as well, the bose amp will switch on and work with your deck.

alternative is to use the stock wiring (which will support max 30amp) to power your aftermarket sub(s)). All the wiring ends up behind the back seat, it's accessible without removing the backseat by removing the trunk lining and reaching behind the panel on the left side and unplugging the bose sub amp.

you will have to turn down the gain from the deck since the stock bose amp runs on a ~2v signal, generally most decks will let out a 4v signal.

i can give a more thorough tutorial if anyone is interested, but there are already several on this forum...
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