TL: 2001 - Aftermarket HU & amped door spkrs
#1
2001 - Aftermarket HU & amped door spkrs
I just bought an 01 tl and have been researching for several days about putting in an aftermarket stereo system. I have a couple of questions regarding this issue:
1. i want to put a set of 6.5" and 6.75" speakers into the car. I understand that the 6.5" will fit (maybe need spacers) but i haven't found much information regarding the 6.75"?
2. i plan on amplifying the door speakers. I am going to run rca's from the HU to amp, can the rca's be ran up the middle console to the back seat? i also want to send 4 sets of speaker wire up the center to the HU. can i tie the amplified speaker wire into the existing door wire, so that i don't have to run speaker wire to each door panel and just use the existing?
3. does every tl have a bose eq in it? I ask because i don't want to remove the factory stuff except for the headunit and door speakers. i want to splice into everything or just disconnect the harnesses, that way when i go to sell the car or put it back to stock, it will be easy and undetectable.
thanks! this seems to be a good car forum!
1. i want to put a set of 6.5" and 6.75" speakers into the car. I understand that the 6.5" will fit (maybe need spacers) but i haven't found much information regarding the 6.75"?
2. i plan on amplifying the door speakers. I am going to run rca's from the HU to amp, can the rca's be ran up the middle console to the back seat? i also want to send 4 sets of speaker wire up the center to the HU. can i tie the amplified speaker wire into the existing door wire, so that i don't have to run speaker wire to each door panel and just use the existing?
3. does every tl have a bose eq in it? I ask because i don't want to remove the factory stuff except for the headunit and door speakers. i want to splice into everything or just disconnect the harnesses, that way when i go to sell the car or put it back to stock, it will be easy and undetectable.
thanks! this seems to be a good car forum!
#2
Drifting
1. Most sets of 6.5s and 6.75s are interchangeable, at least from what I've seen. That being said, I'd stick with the 6.5's, as most of what you're wanting (regardless of what that is) can be found from a 6.5" driver.
2. I would rewire the whole car, like I did in mine. The reason is that most factory speaker wire is like 22ga or smaller. It's not meant for high powered systems, like most people who upgrade their speakers run. If you're going to be running more than like 15w per speaker, I'd just rewire the entire car. Personally, I used 12ga in my car, but I like having more copper than I know what to do with in my wires. You should be fine with 14-16ga, depending on what type of power you're planning on running to your speakers.
2. I would rewire the whole car, like I did in mine. The reason is that most factory speaker wire is like 22ga or smaller. It's not meant for high powered systems, like most people who upgrade their speakers run. If you're going to be running more than like 15w per speaker, I'd just rewire the entire car. Personally, I used 12ga in my car, but I like having more copper than I know what to do with in my wires. You should be fine with 14-16ga, depending on what type of power you're planning on running to your speakers.
#3
1. What speakers are you looking at?
2. Although it never hurts running new, larger speaker wire to each speaker; it isn't necessary unless there is something physically wrong with the factory wire. 18 awg speaker wire, which is used in most vehicles, 16 feet long with 100 watts of power running through it results in less than half a decibel of loss in output. Less than 1dB loss is inaudible. I would recommend, however, connecting it to the output of the factory amplifier.
3. Most factory stereo's have equalization built into the electronics to make the crappy factory speakers sound good. You don't have to remove the factory equipment, just bypass it.
2. Although it never hurts running new, larger speaker wire to each speaker; it isn't necessary unless there is something physically wrong with the factory wire. 18 awg speaker wire, which is used in most vehicles, 16 feet long with 100 watts of power running through it results in less than half a decibel of loss in output. Less than 1dB loss is inaudible. I would recommend, however, connecting it to the output of the factory amplifier.
3. Most factory stereo's have equalization built into the electronics to make the crappy factory speakers sound good. You don't have to remove the factory equipment, just bypass it.
#4
i am transferring the sound system i had in my eclipse to the TL. it is comprised of an Alpine ida-x100 HU, and 4 way pioneer 6.5" and 6.75" door speakers with a 1-channel xtant amp and a 4-channel Alpine amp. along with a capacitor and power distribution block.
my goal is to run 3 rcas from the HU to the amps, and then run 4 sets of speaker wire from the amps to the HU, so that i can attack the speaker wire behind the HU instead of running new wire to each door.
my goal is to run 3 rcas from the HU to the amps, and then run 4 sets of speaker wire from the amps to the HU, so that i can attack the speaker wire behind the HU instead of running new wire to each door.
#5
if your TL has a stock amplifier it will be found behind the rear seat I believe. If so you will NOT have to run any speaker wire to the head unit area since there won't be any direct speaker leads for you to connect to there.
#6
well now i'm really confused. From my reading, i thought the stock amp only controlled the subwoofer. To clear matters, i just need to know where to tap the speaker wire i run from my aftermarket amps into the factory wire to power my door speakers without running new wire to each speaker in its respective door.
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