1997 CL 3.0

I've got a 97 3.0 CL, and my head unit is crapping out (factory bose) I'm looking at replacing this with a new mp3 deck as well as 6.5" Components (front) 6x9 (rear) + 10" sub (trunk) + 2 channel amp. I did a search and still have some questions.
Fronts (70W RMS) - JBL GTO606
Rears (70W RMS) - JBL CS396
Sub (250W RMS) - JBL GT100
Amp (200WRMS, 2 channel) Rockford Fosgate - P2002
Wiring (4Gauge) Rockford Fosgate amp kit

Fronts + Rears will be powered by a Pioneer DEH-7600MP 50Wx4 Mosfett

1-) Is the existing speaker wiring beefy enough to power the new speakers (about 70W RMS Speakers)

2-) When stuffing the sub box with fibre fill are there any special steps required to protect the wiring within the sub box.

3-) How do you gain access to the dash mounted tweeters.

4-) Any pointers as to how to run the powerwire for the amp from doorsill to the trunk area?

5-) Any random suggestions about anything at all? (Stuck with speaker selection due to employee discount :P)
Thanks a bunch.

slo97cl

i ran mine down the passenger side, theres a hole in the firewall right at the end of the carpet in the middle of the pass side, through the carpet under the kick panel, then right under the rear seat to the corner of the trunk, and run the RCAs along the oppisite side of the car to avoid interference in the sound. good luck, and the factory wires shoudl be fine for those speakers, to get to the tweeters you ust lift up on the grill, about the fibre fill you just stuff it in there and becareful you dont tear the wires out with your hand.

proaudio22

16ga wire is good for about 10 amps (1000+ watts generally b/c the amp will reach over 100v at those levels) of AC (speakers are AC) power at 25ft. That doesn't mean it will sound good.

Nope. Don't over do it with a sealed box (just enough to cover 3 sides of the inside of the box). Don't use it with a ported.

Like was said above and by taking parts of the dash apart.

In contrast to the above, I think the drivers side is WAAAY easier. You don't have to use extra wire to cross to the passenger side, and there is a huge knockout on the firewall waiting for you. You'll need a $2 grommet to protect the wire. You'll need to remove a small piece of insulation (already precut from the factory, you'll see it under the dash). Wire routes easily through the door sill area. Once there, pull up the B-piller piece and stuff a coathanger through either to the trunk or from the trunk. If you come from the trunk you can use a fishtape as well. There is tons of room around there, it should be easiy to get either through. Tape the wire to the coathanger and pull it though. There are plenty of good grounding points in the trunk, just remember to try to keep the total ground to each amp 3ft or less.

New job where they carry diff brands?

j/p