Hi guys, slowly transforming from a lurker to a contributor.

I thought I'd take a second and show you a few pics of my audio build. First I would like to thank those who have helped me indirectly via the tutorials for this car, which greatly assisted me in finding a temp. solution with the factory sub and an aftermarket HU.

My equipment list:

HU - Pioneer AVH-P3200DVD
Main amp - Soundstream Human Reign Unleashed 4 (HRU.4)
Sub amp - Soundstream D-Tower 1.1700 (DTR1.1700)
Tweeters - Dayton ND20FA 3/4" (for now)
Woofers - Dayton RS150 (for now)
Subwoofer - Acoustic Elegance AV15-H Dual 2ohm
Processor - Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 (for now)
Wiring - Phoenix Gold 1/0 gauge and Stinger 4 gauge, Phoenix gold and Monster RCA's.
Deadening - RAAMmat BXTII, and Sounddeadenershowdown.com

Of this system the HRU.4 is the center piece. It isn't exactly a small amp, nor cheap, so I want to give it a classy home in the trunk somewhere. So far, here's what I've got done:

The doors are still awaiting full deadening and sealing. I just took pics of their shape and form so I could figure out how to make my speakers fit in them.








This was my initial plan... to run Mpyre mids in the door. Well, the door just won't take them as you can plainly see. Here I am not actually touching the metal.. I'm touching the glass!


So we'll get back to those doors!


Here's the PG fused battery terminal which makes up the front fusing. I have run this to the grommet at the driver's side of the firewall. The wire is techflex'd and heatshrinked of course, that's the only I try to go.


Here's the ground for the trunk:




Because I didn't want to hack the factory speaker wire too much in the doors and the factory wire is pretty decent sizing, I decided to splice into it directly from the radio harness. Here I used 4 conductor 16 gauge, and ran this back to the amp rack.



Along with the 4 conductor sheathed wire, I ran a 10 gauge power wire back there too, and techflex'd both together for a clean run on the driver's side of the trans tunnel.



On the passenger side of the trans tunnel, I ran two sets of RCA's from the head unit to the trunk. I also ran an Ethernet cable and techflex'd/shrinked them together. The Ethernet allows me to run the 3sixty.2 processor's control knob to the inside of my center console, concealed.


The trunk side isn't so well organized as of yet:

Horror!


Ok, so problem solving time. The head unit I run requires a relay to ground to run the video output while driving. And, my system requires a relay 12v remote output to turn on all that gear in the trunk. The solution is to use a relay to turn on a relay, and then splice them together. I usually use heat shrink, but this time around some electrical tape was in order, because this solution was on-the-fly.




So on the driver's side we have the main power wire, main ground, the left tweeter wire, the door woofer 4 conductor wire, and the 10 gauge remote wire from the relay. On the passenger side, we have two sets of RCA's, Ethernet, and the passenger tweeter.




That's all for now.

 

Very nice. I'm looking forward to seeing the install of the AE. I've considered them for many a pipe dream of an audio build before. And I was having a similar problem with my Eclipse mids as you're having with those Mpire's.

Very nice equipment choices, btw.

 

Nice equipment choices, and a very nice build for your first build. Very impressive. I also had the same issue with the relay for the ground, what a pain! Can't wait to see more progress

 

Thank you!

This is definitely not my first build, however. I am semi-pro. I'm pro enough to take on jobs for others, but I don't have my own shop (anymore.)

I have many other build pics from other builds if people want, but I don't want to clutter the thread with non-TL stuff if nobody wants that.

 

Are you doing the HU bypass? If so - are you buying the bypass or doing the relay hack for ~$2?

 

Hi there,

This model can be bypassed simply by grounding the parking brake, which is easy enough. So to accomplish that you simply wire a standard relay so the coil side is (remote 12V) to (ground), and the switch side is (ground) and (ground), normally closed.

No need to give anybody money to learn how to do it, but a relay does often cost a couple bucks.

Does that help?

 

Ugh... can't edit posts when you are new. I meant normally OPEN, not closed.

You want the remote turn on to trigger ground. Fair warning this means when the unit is not powered up, it will think you are driving. So setup of the unit must be done while on Radio, iPod, DVD, etc. You can't do it while not on a source in other words.

 

how do you get the remote wire to trigger the ground? i found this guide.. http://www.scikotics.com/forums/show....php?p=2066607

makes it seem like the remote trigger isnt possible w/out the relay.

 

OK, I'm getting a few requests for more pics of other builds. I don't want to clutter the thread so I'll just post pics of some of the latest ones. Keep in mind, none of these cars compete or anything, I'm just after excellent sound quality with stealth in mind, and with as little compromise to the vehicle's use as possible.

My old Mazdaspeed3




Quick sketch of a box I planned to make for a friend
This is that box coming to life.


Making the amp rack.




Box nearing completion. The subs face backward to protect them and to load up against the rear. We had to heavily deaden the rear with deadening tiles, mass-loaded vinyl, and foam. We used www.sounddeadenershowdown.com for this project.






This is a build I did on my Tribute a while back. The wood part wasn't visible when complete:

See?


This was a build I did before the one above. It used a lot of space but was interesting. It was also my first use of microfiber suede.



Going back a bit, I found this Mustang I did a JL box for. That was my first run with fiberglass.





This was another build I did for the Tribute. The Mazda "M" there.



This was a recent build. A 2010 Sentra for my brother in-law. Pretty dang nice setup if you ask me. I had to come up with a way to have him access his spare while still holding 3 Alumapro subs, two big amps, a processor, and all the rest of the power/ground stuff that goes with it all. I'm not happy with the amp rack, and plan on redoing it. Notice the bottom of the amp rack is at an angle, that is so the spare tire well can be fully accessed.





Very hidden:

 

The relay is required unless you want to use a flip switch that you click when you want to watch videos.

A relay is more convenient. Relays are easy things though. No real work is required here. Like I said, just wire your remote wire to one side of the coil, the other to ground. And ground the other two parts of the relay (so all three grounded, and one from the remote out of the HU. When the coil is energized as the head unit turns on, then the relay will close the circuit completing ground.

 

You use the remote trigger to switch the relay on

 

I'd like to see how your amp rack for the TL would be. I'm in need of doing one.

 

It is my plan to put my AV15H up against the rear seat area, sealed off against the rest of the trunk (to reduce cancellation effects.) Then I'm going to build an amp rack that is vertical, as far back into the trunk as possible to maintain spare tire access. My numbers and drawings put me at 13-15" back, which is acceptable. Then to hide everything my goal is to build a board that matches most of the contours of the trunk, so would-be thieves or prying eyes in parking lots don't see anything they want more than I do.

Got some (rough) 3D drafts of my ideas, they are at home on the laptop. I'll post them up when I get home.

 

Hmm, I'm interested in what you've come up with. I can't visualize it right now, so I'm looking forward to the 3-d sketches.

 

Well before I decided to run a single 15" instead of 3 10's, This is what I plotted out:






Keep in mind that in sketches I don't take into consideration all the complex curves that the trim/beauty boards may need to fit perfectly. This is just for the functional portions of the design. ROUGH!

 

If you're going to do that, why not hide the amp(s) beside/on top of the box? Then a nice beauty/security panel to make it look like there's nothing in the trunk? If/when you want to show off the amp rack, pull the panel, then put it back on (use like 4 different types of screws/bolts) and your gear would be safe. Just an idea though.

Other than that, looks good. And being an engineer, I understand the idea of roughin' something out before you do all the trim/beauty panels and such.

 

Well, there's two amps here. An HRU.4 (very BIG), and a DTR.1700. In those sketches, the DTR is on top of the box, and the HRU.4 is upright. And remember, the subs are facing the rear seat..

 

Would the HRU.4 fit on top of the box?

And do you plan on sealing off the the box from the trunk?

 

No, the sub box will be at near max height for the trunk, and that HRU.4 is BIG.





I'm going to seal the front of teh subwoofer via a simple press-fit and possibly a gasket against the rear seat area.
This is the back:



So I just need to work around that.

 

Good looking build. Cant wait to see it finished.

 

Me neither!

 

I see, when you said it was your first build, I assumed you were a n00b. Very impressive work all around

 

Thank you!

I'm a noob to the Acura, for sure. I somehow have never installed in one, nor a Honda Accord of the same structure.

Still waiting on my monster sub before I can push on to build the rest of the setup. I did pick up some carbon fiber vinyl to make some trim pieces.

 

That's a pretty nice system you are putting together. You aren't going to find a better midrange driver than the Mpyre speakers, so if you can use them I highly recommend it. I was able to get them in my doors. It just took some grinding on the door panel and some pretty large spacer rings. Here's some pics of them installed in my car: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...&id=1099622372

Also, I don't recommend using seat-belt bolts for amp grounds. I find that making new grounds guarantees a more solid, better conducting ground source. There's just too much possibility of paint and corrosion getting in the way with the seat-belt bolts.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Help me understand the ground thing. I have ground all paint around the bolt off, taken a wire brush to the inside of the bolt hole, and the bolt itself. And I removed the paint on the backside of the seatbelt bracket. To me this about as good as it gets, no?

I'll have to look at those pics later, my work blocks facebook. Shocker. I have already sold off the Mpyres to be fair, but I could always snag another set up. The problem I had was depth. I'm hitting the glass right there, and the door panel simply will NOT go over where I'm at with the speaker. But maybe your pics will show something I haven't thought of yet. I am waiting for the AE TD6 drivers to release as a possible door speaker option. I have a set of Dayton RS100's standing by, but I just don't think they are all that and a bag of chips

 

OK, didn't realize you have to sign up for Facebook to see those pics and that ain't happening. The SouthPark episode with Facebook is right in many respects and I don't have time to get sucked in. If those pics are able to be thrown up by all means please post. I always use shutterfly for example.

 

You can also see them here:
http://s199.photobucket.com/albums/a...hart/?start=20


Most of the time people don't take the time to clean the bolt, hole, and surrounding area. So it is good that you did this. However making your own new threads along with grinding away the metal is even better IMO.

 

ive looked up for a while now and i still dont get how to take out the backseat?? i need pics, that o be way better thanx

 

i just pulled up on mine lol.. i didn't take them completely off tho.. i managed enough room to run wire thru the side.

 

Thanks for the photobucket link! Looks like I jumped the gun when I sold them, damnit. I think I'll hunt down something similar, like CSS or the coming AE's.

 

That part was EASY.


Use a 10mm if I remember, there are two bolts on the outside edge, and two on the inside. And just pull up on the bottom cushion. To get the top out, the same bolts you pulled held the bottom, so just pull up and shift the keepers out from the top side.

 

Fellow diyma member

 

I may end up canceling my AE order because they are a month late now. That's just stupid.

 

You realize building things by hand takes time, right?

 

I was going to recommend the Tempest-X2, but it looks like it is out of stock till July. I run one of those in my home theater and love it. Here's the link: http://www.diycable.com/main/product...roducts_id=652

 

Yes sir. The problem is they had vendor issues which put them WAY behind schedule. I decided to reach John and put my order money towards some of their in-stock AV10's, which will work just as well IMO.

I don't think I'm the kind of guy that can hold on to a build for a month+ waiting for gear. Vegas has two heat settings, TOO HOT to do anything, and NICE. Well that switch flips usually in June, so I'm praying I get my subs in so I can complete my build before that time.

 

Hi SK,

I'm not a huge fan of XBL^2 motors, so it wasn't on the top of my list. I think for home theater use they do well but in a car having lower inductance along with a steady BL through the excursion range is probably a better combo. Just purely IMO though.

 

Ohio can be the same way. Well, it's more humidity than anything, and we got it today. I was trying to get a bunch of stuff done on my project, but the wiring alone turned into a whole mess that I wasn't expecting (4 runs of 1/0 front to back ain't exactly easy in an Acura) so I'll be testing for a comp at the comp. Hooray.

And interesting comments about the XBL^2 tech in a car. I have a buddy up in Chicago and another here in Cincinnati that both swear by it. One using the old Ascendant Avalanche motors and the other using the RE XXX motors.

 

You do realize that xbl^2 does exactly what you describe, right?

 

There are inherent differences between a Lambda motor and XBL^2. I'm not hacking on the topology, I just wanted to try something else and see how I like it. The XBL^2 isn't really low inductance.