This seems like it would be good information for The Garage...

I was thinking of replacing the front speakers, but have seen some conflicting information regarding impedance and other specs. It would be great to have this info in one place. Could someone in the know help the rest of us with the following speaker specs?


Front Door Speakers
------------------------
Size:
Impedance:
Mounting depth:


Rear Speakers
-----------------
Size:
Impedance:
Mounting depth: N/A(?)


Subwoofer:
-------------
Size:


Tweeters:
-----------
Size:

 

Just got my Factory Manual and just starting to play with audio system. Dash mounted tweeters and center speaker (which you forgot to list) are 4 ohm and pop out of dash, carefully using small tool or screwdriver. Problem is that speakers pop into covers, not into dash, so replacement not what any moron can do. Haven't removed door panels or rear deck, but not that difficult. If you can't remove and figure out for yourself, you probably shouldn't attempt replacement.

 

Ok, here's what I've been able to put together so far. If anyone can fill in some of the blanks (stock mount depth of door speakers) or correct any entries, please do.


Front Door Speakers
------------------------
Size: 6 1/4"
Impedance: 4 ohms
Mounting depth: ?


Center speaker
------------------
Size: ?
Impedance: 4 ohms


Rear Speakers
-----------------
Size: 6 1/4"
Impedance: 4 ohms
Mounting depth: N/A(?)


Subwoofer:
-------------
Size: 8"


Tweeters:
-----------
Size: 1"
Impedance: 4 ohms

 

Center speaker is 3 1/2" rated at 15 watts, 4 ohms, with a very small magnet. Speaker mounts directly to bottom of grill with 2 screws. I just replaced with Infinity 3 1/2" Kappa Series 2-way ($99) and it is almost a drop in. Need to trim a little plastic rib from the grill at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock so speaker will fit all the way down, and trim plastic pin next to screw hole. I also removed round foam gasket from front of old speaker and placed inside of face of new speaker to keep sealed to grill. You have to cut old plastic speaker connection to wire in small crossover box, with green/white wire being + and blue/yellow being -. Took all of 10 minutes. Although center speaker is subtle anyway, I can tell a difference in sound quality, especially bass. I have an extra Infinity speaker with crossover, since they are sold in pairs, if anyone wants to buy from me.

 

Pdphill,

You've only changed out the center speaker? Or did you change out some of the others as well? I had placed Infinity speakers in my old '02 RSX and now would like to do the same in my new '04 TL. Just curious if anyone out there have begun replacing the 6 1/4 speakers and with what.

By the way, thanks for the detailed instructions on replacing the center speaker. I may be interested in your remaining speaker, once Hurricane Frances passes us by.

 

I measured and got 6 ohms on the tweeter ... marked 4 ohm, but I think it is 6 ohm w/ 3.3 uF cap on it.

 

cabbie,
I just did the center since I'm still trying to decide what I want to use for the front and rear 6 1/2s. I really like Boston Pro60 and Focal but their nominal power requirements are just more than I'm going to use, even when I get the extra amps installed. Infinity Kappa components should work fine in the door, with 2-ways in the rear. Infinity uses 4 hole mounting and factory is 3 so you will have to do a little work.

 

The BA Pro6.0 are the speakers going into the TL once I get the factory amp all figured out. The BA are so good. What power levels do you consider high? I personally like over 100W RMS on them. (Not saying I run them this hard but the control over the speaker with that much power is really nice, if you know what I mean.)

 

Thanks for the info. Keep us posted as to how it works for you.

I'm really looking to simply replace the stock speakers with a good aftermarket speaker but use the existing power supply. I really don't want to mess with putting in an Amp.

Replacing the stock speakers in my RSX with Infinitys' was a terrific upgrade (Infinity Reference components up front and 2 ways in the rear) and I'd like to do the same with this car. I'm not looking for added volume, just clearer sound.

 

I don't want to exceed 45-50 rms watts due to the space the larger amps take. Except for the sub, of course.

 

The front door speakers are 6 1/4", 2 ohms, and rated for 20 Watts. I just took one out.

Mounting depth is about 2 1/8", as it almost perfectly matches the Diamond Hex S600S I bought as a replacement.

Of course...I bought the 4 ohm version.

Has anyone put a 4 ohm speaker in the front door with the factory stereo? I imagine it's going to sound a lot weaker.

 

It appears that Infinity Reference 2000i would also fit. However, they too are rated 4 ohm. I noticed Mancur indicated above that the door speakers are 4 ohm. Who's right?

 

I can confirm that the front speakers are in fact 2 ohms. I took one out also.

pdphill, are you sure the center speaker is 4 ohms, as everything else is 2 ohms...

Here's the latest:


Front Door & Rear Speakers
------------------------
Size: 6 1/4"
Impedance: 2 ohms
Rating: 20W
Mounting depth: 2 1/8"


Center speaker
------------------
Size: 3 1/2"
Impedance: 4 ohms
Rating: 15W


Subwoofer
-------------
Size: 8"
Impedance: 2 ohms
Rating: 40W


Tweeters
-----------
Size: 1"
Impedance: 4 (6?) ohms

 

JesseDart,
I was also thinking of installing the Hex's so it's nice to hear they are a good fit. Let me know your impressions on them in the TL when you get the chance. I am anxious to see how it sounds!! What amp will u be running to them? I'm thinking JL300/4. Do they make a 2 ohm model of that speaker??

 

I was hoping to have the Diamond HEXs as a drop-in replacement, but now I'm also thinking of the JL 300/4 to drive them. I'm running some extensive tests and will post my results soon.

In the meantime, here are some pics:

Stock door speaker


Stock speaker side-by-side Diamond Hex S600S


Height comparison with Diamond Hex

 

Yes, the center is marked 4 ohm, which helps explain why it is so subtle. Additional info on rear speaker and sub is:

Rear 6.5", cutout 5.5" with 3.375" depth clearance. Same speaker as door with no crossover at speaker.

Sub 8", cutout of 7.4" with 3.375" depth clearance, but there is a round cutout just below the speaker about the size of the magnet so that a deeper sub could be fit if the bottom hole is enlarged. No crossover at sub so any filtering must be in amp.

The tweeters are marked 4 ohm but there is a simple filter at the speaker connection with accounts for the extra 2 ohms when measured.

 

Thanks for all the great info! You guys are gonna make finding replacement aftermarket speakers very simple. Please keep up the good work. It is much appreciated!!

 

The tweeters are definetly marked 4 ohm. However the 3.3uF cap is in series, so when you meansure the terminals, you get an open circuit or a VERY large resistance. When you measure across the tweeter you get 6 ohms. One end of the cap is connected to the circuit but the other is not, taking it out of the measurement.

If you use 4 ohms as the tweeter resistance then the filter frequency is at 12kHz!! If you use 6 ohms as the tweeter resistance then the filter frequency is more acceptable 8kHz. In addition at 6 ohms, the tweeter is at an even lower volume level compared to the mid and given how soft highs are in this car, this value does not surprise me.

 

Yep, the tweeter is 4 ohms, 15W. Pic below.

I measured 3.6 ohms at DC. Not sure how you guys were getting 6 ohms..?

The cap is in series with the right connector leg (looking at the tweeter upside-down with the label facing you, as in the picture). For the resistance, you need to measure from the left connector pin inside the housing to the flat metal leg to the right of the capacitor.

 

Any recomendations on brand of tweeter for replacement of the stock tweeters? If anyone has done this , love to know if the sound quality is really improved measureably over the stock tweeters.

Thanks!

 

bump...has anyone installed new speakers? I am going to but i need to know what will fit and what is nicceeeee

 

I have an 04 NBP TL 6mt

What size are all the speakers in the car?

I thought the fronts and rears are 6.5? Are these component? Center is 3.5? and 1" Tweets?

I am looking first to either add a separate mono amp( JL RMS 250/1) and 1 Sealed JL 12" sub (12W3V2)

OR

Replace all the speakers.
Noob question-----> What channel amp would best suit this need?
And what speakers do any of you recommend? Component 6.5"?? or no? JL is my 1st choice.
Do I have to replace ALL the interior speakers? Sub also?
Or can I get away with PIECING it together?
Will just replacing speakers be enough WITHOUT an external amp?

I'm not looking to go BONKERS with the stereo. I just want a little more. I welcome any and all advice for this minor quest. As far as the 2nd option is concerned. I like the sound overall, but i think from volumn 30-40 doesn't really do much. Just wanted a little extra :-)

Has anyone done either of these minor mods?

Thanks so much in advance.
Miiipilot

 

How hard is it to replace the stock speakers. I'm willing to do it myself, BUT I do NOT want to mark my baby. Any advice to just replace stock speakers?

Sorry for the additional NOOB question. See above too :-)

Thanks
miiipilot

 

Trying to revive this thread.

I have some Diamond Audio s600s components up front and cannot figure out for the life of me how to make these tweeters fit into the stock location.

Can anyone offer an advice?

Thanks

 

so has anyone replaced the stock front and rear speakers?

without adding/changing amps, just direct replacement....

which ones did you use?

 

i just installed a complete system in my car last week. 4 infinity reference speaker - 2 on the doors and 2 in the rear. i also got a 12 inch kicker solo baric sub along with 2 infity subs - 1 for the speakers and 1 for the sub. the speakers could make my ears bleed and the bass makes you wanna vomit - real powerful stuff, even my roof vibratres from the outside, not to mention the rear mirrior which is rendered useless while the sub is on. one of my friends actually got sick and she almsoit threw up in my car because she told me it felt like all her organs were shaking.

 

and,
where can i confirm the info on the OE stuff w/out taking the car apart?

 

I have a technical question, or concern regarding this post actually. PDPphill bought the Infinity Kappa series speaker as a replacement center channel. Infinity lists this speaker as a 2ohm speaker...if I understand the logic correctly this would mean that the filter frequency would end up being much higher in our cars? Would it be so high as to render it a bad idea? Yet PDPPHIL states that his car system sounds a lot better with the replacement Infinity center channel speaker. Reason being....Infinity also makes a Reference series speaker that would work, and that is 4 ohms.

Same thing on the tweeters, they make a Kappa series that is 2 ohms and a Reference series that is 4 ohms.

For the doors / rear they make 2 ohm Kappa series.

Question is...would I be able to replace the fronts (for now) with Kappa series directly, not yet replace the amps or other speakers (probably will down the road)...without amps, Cleansweeps or Rockford Fosgates, etc, and will it help? Should I be concerned about the filter frequency (is this the same as the crossover point??)... using a 2 ohm Kappa center channel vs a 4 ohm Reference? The Kappa seems to be a better speaker (costs more).

Any car audio techies out there that can help me answer this before I go plunk down any real $$ on something I'd sure appreciate it, thanks in advance.

 

This may have been covered somewhere but does anyone know how many watts the stick head unit puts out? Or does the power come from an amp and if so ho wmany watts per channel is that?

 

The car comes with a weak little 5.1 channel amp, I think it's something like 20-30watts per channel. It's located on the right passenger footwell rest behind the plastic cover on the right.

When upgrading a stereo you can either tap after this amp and do something to the signal to reduce/normalize before you run it into your aftermarket amp, or just eliminate it entirely somehow.

This results in the use of what are called LOCs (method 1) ...or the necessity of a signal processor such as the JL Audio Cleansweep or Rockford Fosgate DSP something or other (tons of threads on both topics here if you search).

 

so, repeating their question, has anyone done direct replacements on the speakers with no new amp? also, pdphil, did i understand you correctly that you had to add a crossover to the center channel speaker, you cant just get a new similar matched speaker, and plug it in?

 

i know this question is stupid and i should know this, being a car fanatic and a part time DJ, but what is the importance of ohms? what are they? i know i have always bought 8 ohms for some reason - does that mean their power rating is low? I know my 1000 watt amp is only putting out 200 per channel in 8 ohm form.......

 

ohm's are its resistance. the less resistance, the power that goes through. thats why when amps list their specs, theyll say 500 watts @ 2ohms, 300 @ 4 ohms, and 175 @ 8 ohms. but more resistance is overall safer. (something like that).

 

can a 8" w7 replace the stock subwoofer on our TL without mod?

 

Has anyone ever found an aftermarket sub that can replace the stock one without any mods?

 

bump- also looking to replace speakers while keeping the stock amplifier.

What speakers would exactly match the fit and impendance requirements?

 

This thread has the speakers...
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/fs-acura-cl-tuner-wheel-gen1-151980/

Center Channel And Tweeters.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145316

Subs... There isn't really a drop in... There are not many free air subs... JL makes a Marine FA sub but its a 10 inch. They make a 8W3v3-4 and 8W3v3-8. The 4 Ohm one would be a better match. But the Stock output is a tad low for it (50 ish watts)... It needs a small .30 cf enclosure. But even that will be hard to pull off in the stock location.

 

I do audio for living and I understand speakers rather well. So to clear up some terms:
Resistance (what you measure with Ohm meter) and impedance are related but not the same. Impedance is resistance at a specific frequency. If a speaker is rated 4 Ohm- that means it's impedance averages 4 Ohm over its intended playback frequency range. It could dip down to 2 Ohms at let's say 500 Hz and it could be as high as 50 Ohms at 50 Hz when mounted in a box. 4 Ohm is a vague number.
Also, a capacitor in series with a speaker acts as a High Pass filter (filters out bass), but the important thing is, that it will act differently depending on the impedance of the speaker its attached to. So, replacing a speaker with one that has a different impedance (they are all different to a varying degree) will result in different final response. It might roll off sooner than the original speaker, resulting in a hole in system frequency response, or it might roll off lower, resulting in a build up of low frequencies- since both sub and the fronts are doubling up on the same frequencies.
A well designed and balanced system, has crossover components matched to speakers in such way that the combined response is smooth. Dropping in a new component, without compensating for it's impedance and natural response by also matching and installing new crossovers is a bad practice. It never works out.
So while a new tweeter might sound louder or brighter than the old one, and therefore "better", you almost certainly made the system worse- less true to the music.
Be really careful when messing with audio components. Try to find someone with audio measuring equipment and knowledge how to use it to confirm that you are indeed improving things when modding.

As a matter of fact, I wouldn't mind contributing to this great community by suggesting a better than factory audio system mod- that truly is well engineered and balanced- not just trial and error dropping in replacements. I would just need to cooperate with mechanics who know how to swap components without messing up anything. I have audio measurement equipment and speaker simulation software and experience in using it. I'm in PA if anyone is interested in cooperating.

 

Welcome to the forum. Glad to have an expert on board.

I think this is a well balanced and carefully thought out system.


https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/goal-competition-ready-sound-system-726990/

 

Thanks for the link. I haven't seen it in my few days of reading the forum.
But, as beautiful as the actual install is, and as nice as the components are, the last paragraph says it all for me:
"so thats it...with some quick tuning by Leon, the car definetly have potential to do well at the upcoming iasca comps."

Quick tuning ain't gonna cut it. The Seas magnesium midrange units are particularly known for difficulty in engineering a good sounding crossover. So, just turning the dials on the integrated crossover in the amps will most likely not result in the level of performance this system is capable of. But, I have not heard it, so I will not imply this is not a top notch system, but the author is obviously an expert installer, not expert electro-acoustician.
Personally, I would like to work on something more drop-in that doesn't require that level of modification to the interior.