what rear sway bar is available
02-25-2013, 11:29 AM
#41
Drifting
02-25-2013, 11:31 AM
#42
Drifting
lemme know if you want it. I can get it from my parts dealer directly for 110. I'll also get you a quote on the whiteline endlinks too. He delivers it right to my garage, so no waiting around on shipping and you just need to show up with your car 
02-25-2013, 11:32 AM
#43
Exactly, which is why I recommend this mod. You can also upgrade to the endlinks used on the 2013 civic si, which are meant for an 18mm bar.
Separately, have you looked into motor mounts?
Separately, have you looked into motor mounts?
02-25-2013, 11:35 AM
#44
that's a great deal. I got mine for $120...I may need to get parts from you, sir.
02-25-2013, 11:48 AM
#46
Drifting
if you look in my picture thread, you'll see all the cars I've built... So yes, I got a parts sponsor (my own personal parts supplier) as long as I go to car shows/races and put his name out.
heres what I can get
Hawks DBA Mishimoto GTSpec Cobb Perrin Whiteline Tanabe Injen Borla Blox Invidia EnergySuspension ST Suspension Enkei Goodridge Grimmspeed Fidanza Brian Crower Davis Craig Innovate Deatshwerks AEM ClutchMasters Agency Power Hella Magnaflow Turbosmart Skunk2 Eibach H&R Neuspeed Koni
I probably missed some, but take about 10-20% off retail and no shipping charged, since it gets delivered to me
heres what I can get
Hawks DBA Mishimoto GTSpec Cobb Perrin Whiteline Tanabe Injen Borla Blox Invidia EnergySuspension ST Suspension Enkei Goodridge Grimmspeed Fidanza Brian Crower Davis Craig Innovate Deatshwerks AEM ClutchMasters Agency Power Hella Magnaflow Turbosmart Skunk2 Eibach H&R Neuspeed Koni
I probably missed some, but take about 10-20% off retail and no shipping charged, since it gets delivered to me
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spdandpwr (02-25-2013)
02-25-2013, 11:49 AM
#47
Drifting
02-25-2013, 12:04 PM
#48
if you look in my picture thread, you'll see all the cars I've built... So yes, I got a parts sponsor (my own personal parts supplier) as long as I go to car shows/races and put his name out.
heres what I can get
Hawks DBA Mishimoto GTSpec Cobb Perrin Whiteline Tanabe Injen Borla Blox Invidia EnergySuspension ST Suspension Enkei Goodridge Grimmspeed Fidanza Brian Crower Davis Craig Innovate Deatshwerks AEM ClutchMasters Agency Power Hella Magnaflow Turbosmart Skunk2 Eibach H&R Neuspeed Koni
I probably missed some, but take about 10-20% off retail and no shipping charged, since it gets delivered to me
heres what I can get
Hawks DBA Mishimoto GTSpec Cobb Perrin Whiteline Tanabe Injen Borla Blox Invidia EnergySuspension ST Suspension Enkei Goodridge Grimmspeed Fidanza Brian Crower Davis Craig Innovate Deatshwerks AEM ClutchMasters Agency Power Hella Magnaflow Turbosmart Skunk2 Eibach H&R Neuspeed Koni
I probably missed some, but take about 10-20% off retail and no shipping charged, since it gets delivered to me
02-25-2013, 12:04 PM
#49
02-25-2013, 12:27 PM
#52
Drifting
02-25-2013, 01:18 PM
#53
I'll be in contact with you. Wonder if he can get a discount on CT engineering 
02-25-2013, 01:57 PM
#54
Drifting
Ct engineering doesn't distribute to wholesalers.. They do all deals and sales themselves.. I asked the same thing and cte won't let him set up a wholesale account..
02-25-2013, 01:59 PM
#55
those mother truckers...
Why the heck hasn't an intake been created for our cars by the way...seriously, I'd buy one right now + a handful of the 2.4 owners.
Why the heck hasn't an intake been created for our cars by the way...seriously, I'd buy one right now + a handful of the 2.4 owners.
02-25-2013, 05:16 PM
#56
Drifting
i think because its not enough of a market and its not even just a slight difference from a more mainstream vehicles. If our engine bay design was similar to the civic, it would have helped big time. But apparently even our intake box design is different between the 2.0 and 2.4!! aftermarket products for our cars are going to be putrid, most of our mods will have do be modified/retrofitted/fabricated versions of other products already out on the market. I had to do the same with my Legacy with STI parts.. so I'm used to it.
02-25-2013, 08:41 PM
#57
Yea, but CT has the prototype for the intake, so they may just release it. Also, the ART intake would definitely fit, though it's an SRI that won't yield much, if any, gains.
02-25-2013, 09:19 PM
#58
I am telling you! Progress RSB with an Eibach front would be legit!
Maybe ill beat y'all to it
Maybe ill beat y'all to it
02-26-2013, 07:45 AM
#60
But, I did figure I'd suggest the combo to someone since I was thinking about how you'd get a bigger difference from the Front to Rear if you used the Progress rear. We were talking about how the front Eibach bar would actually make your car slower, but from my understanding it does reduce body roll and makes it corner flatter.. so logically the Progress bar should negate more of the understeer than the Eibach RSB would AND you get the stability of the front bar. Sounds like a win to me! Pics when you do it
I am glad there are a handful of us willing to modify our cars.
02-26-2013, 08:08 AM
#61
Aaron, sell your current eibach to trent...?
02-26-2013, 08:09 AM
#62
Boomba motor mounts will be on order for me soon if intake doesn't come out before I'm ready to order.
02-26-2013, 08:34 AM
#63
I can get both together for $270, so if it works out all the same I wouldn't be against it.
Motor mounts help with the torque steer or wheel hop in a FWD car right? RWD cars they do JACK besides keep the motor from running away form the rest of the car lol
Motor mounts help with the torque steer or wheel hop in a FWD car right? RWD cars they do JACK besides keep the motor from running away form the rest of the car lol
02-26-2013, 08:58 AM
#64
Drifting
I don't see that the motor mounts will do much so early in our car's lives. Only because it should be pretty solid, but an upgraded mount would only cause a lot of NVH. I did it on my subaru (upgraded to poly) and that raw noise and vibration running through my arms and spine does get unbearable at times. I can deal with it on a track car, but on a everyday commuter car, I'll stick do working on only things that'll make me feel better on spirited commutes.
I'll sell the rear eibach to trent if Spirited Driver (matt) doesn't take it. Matt lives 2 towns away from me...
I'll sell the rear eibach to trent if Spirited Driver (matt) doesn't take it. Matt lives 2 towns away from me...
02-26-2013, 09:11 AM
#65
I had motor mounts in my civic and loved the feeling. The car had less wheel hop and just felt tighter. Maybe in a luxury car like this, it shouldn't be considered, but we'll see what happens in due time.
02-26-2013, 10:20 AM
#66
If Matt takes it that would probably work out better cause I am pretty far 
03-02-2013, 11:28 PM
#68
9th?
03-04-2013, 11:39 PM
#71
Drifting
So this past weekend, I was taking a few hard corners, and probably putting a lot of strain on the endlinks with the new stiffer sway bar. I knocked the ball joint out of the endlinks apparently and the clunking become insane.
I went under the car and saw the factory endlink completely fail. The ball was yanked out of the rubber boot and the sway bar was hanging loosely and smacking the exhaust.
GOOD thing for me.. I bought upgraded endlinks along with the sway bar, so I installed the shiny new, much stronger spherical endlinks by whiteline. helped stiffen the rear end a lot better. Not as much flex and killed even more of the roll that plagues our cars. I should have installed the endlinks from the beginning but I wanted to see how the OEM ones held up (THEY DONT)
In short, when upgrading sway bars, UPGRADE YOUR ENDLINKS!!
I went under the car and saw the factory endlink completely fail. The ball was yanked out of the rubber boot and the sway bar was hanging loosely and smacking the exhaust.
GOOD thing for me.. I bought upgraded endlinks along with the sway bar, so I installed the shiny new, much stronger spherical endlinks by whiteline. helped stiffen the rear end a lot better. Not as much flex and killed even more of the roll that plagues our cars. I should have installed the endlinks from the beginning but I wanted to see how the OEM ones held up (THEY DONT)
In short, when upgrading sway bars, UPGRADE YOUR ENDLINKS!!
03-05-2013, 07:45 AM
#72
So this past weekend, I was taking a few hard corners, and probably putting a lot of strain on the endlinks with the new stiffer sway bar. I knocked the ball joint out of the endlinks apparently and the clunking become insane.
I went under the car and saw the factory endlink completely fail. The ball was yanked out of the rubber boot and the sway bar was hanging loosely and smacking the exhaust.
GOOD thing for me.. I bought upgraded endlinks along with the sway bar, so I installed the shiny new, much stronger spherical endlinks by whiteline. helped stiffen the rear end a lot better. Not as much flex and killed even more of the roll that plagues our cars. I should have installed the endlinks from the beginning but I wanted to see how the OEM ones held up (THEY DONT)
In short, when upgrading sway bars, UPGRADE YOUR ENDLINKS!!
I went under the car and saw the factory endlink completely fail. The ball was yanked out of the rubber boot and the sway bar was hanging loosely and smacking the exhaust.
GOOD thing for me.. I bought upgraded endlinks along with the sway bar, so I installed the shiny new, much stronger spherical endlinks by whiteline. helped stiffen the rear end a lot better. Not as much flex and killed even more of the roll that plagues our cars. I should have installed the endlinks from the beginning but I wanted to see how the OEM ones held up (THEY DONT)
In short, when upgrading sway bars, UPGRADE YOUR ENDLINKS!!
Excellent report.. perhaps other people weren't busting their endlinks because they dont drive it hard or didn't have them on the stiff setting.. I have decided I am gonna go the eibach kit stiff in back and soft in front, so I'll be needing to pick up some endlinks too it sounds ~.~
Suspension has too many parts I need to buy lol..
03-05-2013, 10:05 AM
#73
Aaron, can you link to the part number for the endlinks?
03-06-2013, 01:29 AM
#74
Drifting
I used this one..
- Amazon Link to the Whiteline Endlink.
Can be used for both front and rear. its adjustable in any direction and length so you adjust it to size. According to their website, its also universal for most cars that use spherical ball joint endlinks.
I can get them for 115 shipped, I think, through my sponsor. I forget exactly how much I paid him.
Honestly, you don't need one of that extreme price though.. I went with whiteline because my parts dealer gets them for me, but you can get away with the BLOX units, which uses the exact same spherical joint and adjusters. The quality feels the same and I had them on my Legacy for nearly 3 years and still hasn't rusted, failed, or started making any noise at all.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLOX-REAR-AD...d15e67&vxp=mtr
shoot them an offer for like 34-35 bucks with free shipping. its 100 dollars cheaper than whitelines, and I still don't see what the difference was, besides the name.
Not only that.. I'm sure you can piece this entire endlink together at Home Depot.
- Amazon Link to the Whiteline Endlink.
Can be used for both front and rear. its adjustable in any direction and length so you adjust it to size. According to their website, its also universal for most cars that use spherical ball joint endlinks.
I can get them for 115 shipped, I think, through my sponsor. I forget exactly how much I paid him.
Honestly, you don't need one of that extreme price though.. I went with whiteline because my parts dealer gets them for me, but you can get away with the BLOX units, which uses the exact same spherical joint and adjusters. The quality feels the same and I had them on my Legacy for nearly 3 years and still hasn't rusted, failed, or started making any noise at all.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLOX-REAR-AD...d15e67&vxp=mtr
shoot them an offer for like 34-35 bucks with free shipping. its 100 dollars cheaper than whitelines, and I still don't see what the difference was, besides the name.
Not only that.. I'm sure you can piece this entire endlink together at Home Depot.
03-13-2013, 11:32 PM
#75
easy and easy.
Coils, I may need to look for my spring compressor and ball joint puller. I should have it somewhere though. If not, we can always rent it from the Advance Auto down the block. probably take about 2 hours on factory settings. If you want to play around and adjust to make it lower/higher, it'll take an extra hour.
Exhaust should be cake. 1 hour - 1.5 hours max. although, I'm not familiar with this "downpipe" that we have on our cars, it's weird not having a full tubular header.. I would actually think it should be easier, but who knows, haven't tried it yet. If its a catback exhaust, I can't see it being longer than half an hour.
Matt - it has nothing to do with the warranty. I've had coilovers, sway bars, arm bars, cusco braces, big brakes, headers, exhaust, high flow cat, intake, tb spacers, camber kit, etc done on my TL and I still got warranty work done on my car. This was at Park Ave. I had to get my transmission and EGR valve replaced. They even gave me a TSX loaner for a week..
Coils, I may need to look for my spring compressor and ball joint puller. I should have it somewhere though. If not, we can always rent it from the Advance Auto down the block. probably take about 2 hours on factory settings. If you want to play around and adjust to make it lower/higher, it'll take an extra hour.
Exhaust should be cake. 1 hour - 1.5 hours max. although, I'm not familiar with this "downpipe" that we have on our cars, it's weird not having a full tubular header.. I would actually think it should be easier, but who knows, haven't tried it yet. If its a catback exhaust, I can't see it being longer than half an hour.
Matt - it has nothing to do with the warranty. I've had coilovers, sway bars, arm bars, cusco braces, big brakes, headers, exhaust, high flow cat, intake, tb spacers, camber kit, etc done on my TL and I still got warranty work done on my car. This was at Park Ave. I had to get my transmission and EGR valve replaced. They even gave me a TSX loaner for a week..
03-14-2013, 01:47 AM
#76
Drifting
you need a spring compressor for the fronts, definitely because of the coil-over design. The rears would just pop out when loosening the control arm.
In order to take the springs off, you would need to compress them so the nut on top can be loosened without too much stress on the struts, or else you won't be able to get it to budge at all.
The rear should have more than enough room to get even a 4" exhaust piping through, even with the upgraded sway bar. that wont be a problem at all. (if installed correctly... sorry spdandpower :X )
In order to take the springs off, you would need to compress them so the nut on top can be loosened without too much stress on the struts, or else you won't be able to get it to budge at all.
The rear should have more than enough room to get even a 4" exhaust piping through, even with the upgraded sway bar. that wont be a problem at all. (if installed correctly... sorry spdandpower :X )
03-14-2013, 08:15 AM
#77
MERRRRRRRRR!!!!!! I figured the front coilovers would just slide out together and then just pop the new assembly in, call it good and take it to get aligned.
03-14-2013, 08:26 AM
#78
You guys really think we will need a spring compressor?!? I have never had to use one before :/ I figured the fronts would come out clean being a coil over and the rear you could just slowly unload the spring from the control arm. (How my mustang was). I am ordering a Full Race catback as soon as they release their downpipe.. The downpipe appears to be INCREDIBLY easy. By looking at your picture it seems there is space but do you think a 3" will rub the eibach bar?
03-14-2013, 08:27 AM
#79
you need a spring compressor for the fronts, definitely because of the coil-over design. The rears would just pop out when loosening the control arm.
In order to take the springs off, you would need to compress them so the nut on top can be loosened without too much stress on the struts, or else you won't be able to get it to budge at all.
The rear should have more than enough room to get even a 4" exhaust piping through, even with the upgraded sway bar. that wont be a problem at all. (if installed correctly... sorry spdandpower :X )
In order to take the springs off, you would need to compress them so the nut on top can be loosened without too much stress on the struts, or else you won't be able to get it to budge at all.
The rear should have more than enough room to get even a 4" exhaust piping through, even with the upgraded sway bar. that wont be a problem at all. (if installed correctly... sorry spdandpower :X )
03-14-2013, 09:17 AM
#80
Drifting
i'm probably going to keep the exhaust stock and going with just the downpipe. I want better flow but keep the exhaust as quiet as possible. I get enough headaches from the droning in my other car.. fully gutted interior, full 3 inch straight pipe, carbon fiber roof.. that car cannot keep any sounds out, it seems to absorb everything into the car.
this is why i think the ILX is the most peaceful car out there. Don't tell me otherwise, I like knowing that my self-proclaimed theory is "true".
this is why i think the ILX is the most peaceful car out there. Don't tell me otherwise, I like knowing that my self-proclaimed theory is "true".