Aftermarket Speakers and Subwoofer
06-18-2014, 04:38 PM
#1
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Aftermarket Speakers and Subwoofer
The first thing I noticed about the ILX is that I need to change my sound setup. Has anybody upgraded their speakers and subs?
What speakers, Subwoofer amps have you got?
Im trying to figure out if I can wire my W3 into the existing sub wires and then just run the amp.
What speakers, Subwoofer amps have you got?
Im trying to figure out if I can wire my W3 into the existing sub wires and then just run the amp.
11-02-2014, 03:42 PM
#4
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I'm also really curious about this. The factory sub leaves much to be desired in my ILX and the speakers aren't great either. I'd like to know what other people have done to remedy the situation. I'm not looking for huge sound, but I miss having my infinity 12" I had in my previous vehicle.
11-24-2014, 11:39 PM
#6
Ive never heard of Image Dynamics and im very iffy on trying electronics I've never heard of. I mean, I even tried an Alpine sub before, but it wasnt the famed type R's, it was like a cheaper one they sell at Best Buy. Although the Best Buy warranty was great, and the sub sounded great, it couldn't take the California heat, so i exchanged it no problem under warranty like 3 times. Kinda bullshit really. I'd only go quality/ high end if I bothered to change anything, And Id still go Best Buy, the warranty was just too good. No mom and pop shop is gonna do that. I think stock sounds good enough tho. I'm not 16, I don't need to bump super hard through the neighborhood. Plus if you got a sub box, you're losing a lot of trunk space and MPG. The Polk Audio stuff sounds like a good pickup/upgrade tho man.
What I would recommend to people is to do some online research, then order through the Best Buy website. Online catalog is MASSIVE. Then get it installed at whatever Best Buy. The warranty is good at ANY nationwide location. I switched out burnt subs in San Diego and LA. I forget how long the warranty was good for, but I think it was like 5 years dude. Ridiculously good, and I think I only payed like a 100 bucks.
What I would recommend to people is to do some online research, then order through the Best Buy website. Online catalog is MASSIVE. Then get it installed at whatever Best Buy. The warranty is good at ANY nationwide location. I switched out burnt subs in San Diego and LA. I forget how long the warranty was good for, but I think it was like 5 years dude. Ridiculously good, and I think I only payed like a 100 bucks.
12-07-2014, 01:54 PM
#7
Ive never heard of Image Dynamics and im very iffy on trying electronics I've never heard of. I mean, I even tried an Alpine sub before, but it wasnt the famed type R's, it was like a cheaper one they sell at Best Buy. Although the Best Buy warranty was great, and the sub sounded great, it couldn't take the California heat, so i exchanged it no problem under warranty like 3 times. Kinda bullshit really. I'd only go quality/ high end if I bothered to change anything, And Id still go Best Buy, the warranty was just too good. No mom and pop shop is gonna do that. I think stock sounds good enough tho. I'm not 16, I don't need to bump super hard through the neighborhood. Plus if you got a sub box, you're losing a lot of trunk space and MPG. The Polk Audio stuff sounds like a good pickup/upgrade tho man.
What I would recommend to people is to do some online research, then order through the Best Buy website. Online catalog is MASSIVE. Then get it installed at whatever Best Buy. The warranty is good at ANY nationwide location. I switched out burnt subs in San Diego and LA. I forget how long the warranty was good for, but I think it was like 5 years dude. Ridiculously good, and I think I only payed like a 100 bucks.
What I would recommend to people is to do some online research, then order through the Best Buy website. Online catalog is MASSIVE. Then get it installed at whatever Best Buy. The warranty is good at ANY nationwide location. I switched out burnt subs in San Diego and LA. I forget how long the warranty was good for, but I think it was like 5 years dude. Ridiculously good, and I think I only payed like a 100 bucks.
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12-08-2014, 02:42 AM
#8
Cool then sounds like ID is good stuff then, cuz Alpine Type R, those are really legit as hell. Yea SQ over SPL man. Small box is nice too, you can move it around to fit stuff if its not bolted in place. Smart.
12-09-2014, 07:48 PM
#9
Just installed 2 10" JL Audio subs and JL amp and dynamated the trunk. Ran a control knob for amp and a switch to turn it on and off. Ive got some serious noise fron the subs now. When i hit the brake, it gets louder. If i hit the gas, it goes away. Did a little research and i think i have t o disconnect the active noise control. Anyone else have this issue?
12-09-2014, 08:20 PM
#10
Just installed 2 10" JL Audio subs and JL amp and dynamated the trunk. Ran a control knob for amp and a switch to turn it on and off. Ive got some serious noise fron the subs now. When i hit the brake, it gets louder. If i hit the gas, it goes away. Did a little research and i think i have t o disconnect the active noise control. Anyone else have this issue?
12-11-2014, 12:22 PM
#12
Can you provide step-by-step on how to disconnect the ANC? I had a RockfordFosgate P300-P10 installed yesterday and it sounds fantastic...except for when the ANC kicks in and creates a very very loud rumble. It really only seems to happen when I first start moving...I haven't noticed it while driving around normally, but I'm pretty sure it's the ANC judging from what I've read elsewhere.
Thanks!
Thanks!
12-12-2014, 02:40 PM
#16
So I thought I'd disconnect the ANC system behind the glove box, but for the life of me I couldn't find out how exactly to get the glove box itself out of the way. I could drop the drawer with no problem but couldn't figure out how to remove the trim or find any of the screws mentioned above.
So, I went with option 2 - disconnect the ANC microphone in the map light assembly. This was MUCH easier - use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the light covers (screwdriver slot is on the front, closest to the windshield), then used a 5/16 socket bit to remove the two bolts set high up behind the bulbs. Very carefully popped out the assembly and disconnected the plug to the microphone (the plug closest to the sunroof side of the assembly), tucked it up in the roof opening, and put it all back together.
Whole process was about 5-6 minutes and may have been a little less nerve-wracking than popping off the trim smack dab in the front of the cabin. I test drove it around the neighborhood and the phantom rumble from the sub at low idle speeds was completely resolved.
The set up know is bone stock except for the Fosgate P300-P10; the stock sub is unplugged and the wires going to it are T-connected to a line out converter, so the Fosgate is being fed off the converter. Sounds really, really good, now, although I might play with some of the settings on the sub. I don't know what the internal crossover from the head unit is set to, so it's hard to know for sure what frequencies were going to the stock sub. It has a gain control, though, so I can always boost it a bit if I want.
Right now the head unit is set to Bass = Even, Treble = +3, Sub = +3. It sounds good and tight for rock and symphonic metal. I haven't tried it with R&B or electronic yet, but so far I like the sound. I may increase the gain a little to compensate for the sound dampening from the trunk to the cabin...it's a lot better on an Acura than the old Toyota Camry that was my last subbed car.
Hope someone finds this info useful if looking to improve the lacking bass on the original non-preimum audio system.
So, I went with option 2 - disconnect the ANC microphone in the map light assembly. This was MUCH easier - use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the light covers (screwdriver slot is on the front, closest to the windshield), then used a 5/16 socket bit to remove the two bolts set high up behind the bulbs. Very carefully popped out the assembly and disconnected the plug to the microphone (the plug closest to the sunroof side of the assembly), tucked it up in the roof opening, and put it all back together.
Whole process was about 5-6 minutes and may have been a little less nerve-wracking than popping off the trim smack dab in the front of the cabin. I test drove it around the neighborhood and the phantom rumble from the sub at low idle speeds was completely resolved.
The set up know is bone stock except for the Fosgate P300-P10; the stock sub is unplugged and the wires going to it are T-connected to a line out converter, so the Fosgate is being fed off the converter. Sounds really, really good, now, although I might play with some of the settings on the sub. I don't know what the internal crossover from the head unit is set to, so it's hard to know for sure what frequencies were going to the stock sub. It has a gain control, though, so I can always boost it a bit if I want.
Right now the head unit is set to Bass = Even, Treble = +3, Sub = +3. It sounds good and tight for rock and symphonic metal. I haven't tried it with R&B or electronic yet, but so far I like the sound. I may increase the gain a little to compensate for the sound dampening from the trunk to the cabin...it's a lot better on an Acura than the old Toyota Camry that was my last subbed car.
Hope someone finds this info useful if looking to improve the lacking bass on the original non-preimum audio system.
02-15-2015, 09:41 AM
#17
So I thought I'd disconnect the ANC system behind the glove box, but for the life of me I couldn't find out how exactly to get the glove box itself out of the way. I could drop the drawer with no problem but couldn't figure out how to remove the trim or find any of the screws mentioned above.
So, I went with option 2 - disconnect the ANC microphone in the map light assembly. This was MUCH easier - use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the light covers (screwdriver slot is on the front, closest to the windshield), then used a 5/16 socket bit to remove the two bolts set high up behind the bulbs. Very carefully popped out the assembly and disconnected the plug to the microphone (the plug closest to the sunroof side of the assembly), tucked it up in the roof opening, and put it all back together.
Whole process was about 5-6 minutes and may have been a little less nerve-wracking than popping off the trim smack dab in the front of the cabin. I test drove it around the neighborhood and the phantom rumble from the sub at low idle speeds was completely resolved.
The set up know is bone stock except for the Fosgate P300-P10; the stock sub is unplugged and the wires going to it are T-connected to a line out converter, so the Fosgate is being fed off the converter. Sounds really, really good, now, although I might play with some of the settings on the sub. I don't know what the internal crossover from the head unit is set to, so it's hard to know for sure what frequencies were going to the stock sub. It has a gain control, though, so I can always boost it a bit if I want.
Right now the head unit is set to Bass = Even, Treble = +3, Sub = +3. It sounds good and tight for rock and symphonic metal. I haven't tried it with R&B or electronic yet, but so far I like the sound. I may increase the gain a little to compensate for the sound dampening from the trunk to the cabin...it's a lot better on an Acura than the old Toyota Camry that was my last subbed car.
Hope someone finds this info useful if looking to improve the lacking bass on the original non-preimum audio system.
So, I went with option 2 - disconnect the ANC microphone in the map light assembly. This was MUCH easier - use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the light covers (screwdriver slot is on the front, closest to the windshield), then used a 5/16 socket bit to remove the two bolts set high up behind the bulbs. Very carefully popped out the assembly and disconnected the plug to the microphone (the plug closest to the sunroof side of the assembly), tucked it up in the roof opening, and put it all back together.
Whole process was about 5-6 minutes and may have been a little less nerve-wracking than popping off the trim smack dab in the front of the cabin. I test drove it around the neighborhood and the phantom rumble from the sub at low idle speeds was completely resolved.
The set up know is bone stock except for the Fosgate P300-P10; the stock sub is unplugged and the wires going to it are T-connected to a line out converter, so the Fosgate is being fed off the converter. Sounds really, really good, now, although I might play with some of the settings on the sub. I don't know what the internal crossover from the head unit is set to, so it's hard to know for sure what frequencies were going to the stock sub. It has a gain control, though, so I can always boost it a bit if I want.
Right now the head unit is set to Bass = Even, Treble = +3, Sub = +3. It sounds good and tight for rock and symphonic metal. I haven't tried it with R&B or electronic yet, but so far I like the sound. I may increase the gain a little to compensate for the sound dampening from the trunk to the cabin...it's a lot better on an Acura than the old Toyota Camry that was my last subbed car.
Hope someone finds this info useful if looking to improve the lacking bass on the original non-preimum audio system.
03-17-2015, 04:14 PM
#18
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Going with sort of a budget setup. Sub + amp.
Probably something like this:
Rockford Fosgate® - Product Selector
PRIME Amplifiers - R500X1D - Rockford Fosgate®
Did you guys do the wiring yourself?
Probably something like this:
Rockford Fosgate® - Product Selector
PRIME Amplifiers - R500X1D - Rockford Fosgate®
Did you guys do the wiring yourself?
05-12-2015, 05:58 PM
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i am a car audio/alarm installer at Best Buy. i have installed systems in the 2014 and 2015 accords 2013-2014 RDX, as well as a few other newer acura and hondas and they have the ANC system, as well as OEM bluetooth.
for a couple of these vehicles i had to:
-disconnect the rear microphone.
-locate front microphone, and one of the wires connected to the ANC system
the reason i just cut one wire instead of unplugging, is because the front mic is used both for the ANC system as well as the bluetooth phone calls.
the ILX has almost the same system as the newer accords and RDX, with modifications I'm sure.
i just purchased a 2013 ilx 2.4, and will be putting a system in it within the next few month, i will post pics of the front mic wires and what one needs to be cut.
for a couple of these vehicles i had to:
-disconnect the rear microphone.
-locate front microphone, and one of the wires connected to the ANC system
the reason i just cut one wire instead of unplugging, is because the front mic is used both for the ANC system as well as the bluetooth phone calls.
the ILX has almost the same system as the newer accords and RDX, with modifications I'm sure.
i just purchased a 2013 ilx 2.4, and will be putting a system in it within the next few month, i will post pics of the front mic wires and what one needs to be cut.
05-19-2015, 11:53 AM
#21
FYI, Image Dynamics is a really really high end brand of subwoofers. Used in many professional high-end car audio installs
The following users liked this post:
aomechmarine (05-22-2015)
05-19-2015, 02:11 PM
#22
I'd be curious in simply filling out the speaker setup in my Permium '16
It currently has "7" speakers. (two front tweeters, 4 for speakers, and a center mounted rear sub)
If be nice to simply have a more full sound by putting proper coaxial speakers in the other two rear grill locations + a center speaker in the front dashboard.
Anyway to fill these locations up while still retaining the OEM amplifier setup?
It currently has "7" speakers. (two front tweeters, 4 for speakers, and a center mounted rear sub)
If be nice to simply have a more full sound by putting proper coaxial speakers in the other two rear grill locations + a center speaker in the front dashboard.
Anyway to fill these locations up while still retaining the OEM amplifier setup?
06-09-2015, 01:22 AM
#23
i am a car audio/alarm installer at Best Buy. i have installed systems in the 2014 and 2015 accords 2013-2014 RDX, as well as a few other newer acura and hondas and they have the ANC system, as well as OEM bluetooth.
for a couple of these vehicles i had to:
-disconnect the rear microphone.
-locate front microphone, and one of the wires connected to the ANC system
the reason i just cut one wire instead of unplugging, is because the front mic is used both for the ANC system as well as the bluetooth phone calls.
the ILX has almost the same system as the newer accords and RDX, with modifications I'm sure.
i just purchased a 2013 ilx 2.4, and will be putting a system in it within the next few month, i will post pics of the front mic wires and what one needs to be cut.
for a couple of these vehicles i had to:
-disconnect the rear microphone.
-locate front microphone, and one of the wires connected to the ANC system
the reason i just cut one wire instead of unplugging, is because the front mic is used both for the ANC system as well as the bluetooth phone calls.
the ILX has almost the same system as the newer accords and RDX, with modifications I'm sure.
i just purchased a 2013 ilx 2.4, and will be putting a system in it within the next few month, i will post pics of the front mic wires and what one needs to be cut.
06-10-2015, 10:13 AM
#24
Instructor
Just wanted to add:
I mainly listen to audio over bluetooth via my phone.
I found that installing a 10-band equalizer app did wonders to my stock setup in my base ILX.
Boosting the low end and carving a dip around 2KHz really sweetened the sound a lot.
Of course it won't compete against a full speaker-sub-amplifier upgrade, but for me it's good enough and is totally free $0
With a much more powerful setup, aren't you guys worried about interior rattle?
I mainly listen to audio over bluetooth via my phone.
I found that installing a 10-band equalizer app did wonders to my stock setup in my base ILX.
Boosting the low end and carving a dip around 2KHz really sweetened the sound a lot.
Of course it won't compete against a full speaker-sub-amplifier upgrade, but for me it's good enough and is totally free $0
With a much more powerful setup, aren't you guys worried about interior rattle?
07-29-2015, 07:39 PM
#25
For anyone that needs to disconnect their ANC due to the earth shattering bass of an after market sub, here is a step by step of how to get the glove box out. Once it's out of the way, just reach up and unplug the little silver box. Heavenly silence when driving other than bass you actually want...
http://acura.bernardiparts.com/images/install/2013_ILX_DoorSillTrim_BII13542.pdf
http://acura.bernardiparts.com/images/install/2013_ILX_DoorSillTrim_BII13542.pdf
07-15-2016, 12:02 PM
#26
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I'd be curious in simply filling out the speaker setup in my Permium '16
It currently has "7" speakers. (two front tweeters, 4 for speakers, and a center mounted rear sub)
If be nice to simply have a more full sound by putting proper coaxial speakers in the other two rear grill locations + a center speaker in the front dashboard.
Anyway to fill these locations up while still retaining the OEM amplifier setup?
It currently has "7" speakers. (two front tweeters, 4 for speakers, and a center mounted rear sub)
If be nice to simply have a more full sound by putting proper coaxial speakers in the other two rear grill locations + a center speaker in the front dashboard.
Anyway to fill these locations up while still retaining the OEM amplifier setup?
07-15-2016, 06:46 PM
#27
Instructor
I'm actually looking to upgrade my stock speakers as soon. I had a system in my previous car and I haven't gotten around to installing them in the ilx. From what I've researched there are speaker wire adapters that do not require you to cut any wires in the ilx. They are Metra 72-7800 and I ordered them on amazon for 5 bucks a pair. I should be receiving them tomorrow and then I was going to take apart the door panel and check it out. I have hertz high energy components for the front and coaxial for the rear. From the research I've done the stock speakers are 4 ohm 6.5in. Which is way through hertz speakers are so I'm hoping that I'll get a little better sound once I install them. I also have a hertz amp and mosconi 6to8 dsp along with alpine sub and amo that I'll eventually have installed in the car but that costs $$ so I have to save. This weekend might be especially hot so I don't know if I'll be up for doing the work. As soon as I do I'll circle back here and upload some pics as well.
08-30-2016, 08:41 PM
#28
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I'm actually looking to upgrade my stock speakers as soon. I had a system in my previous car and I haven't gotten around to installing them in the ilx. From what I've researched there are speaker wire adapters that do not require you to cut any wires in the ilx. They are Metra 72-7800 and I ordered them on amazon for 5 bucks a pair. I should be receiving them tomorrow and then I was going to take apart the door panel and check it out. I have hertz high energy components for the front and coaxial for the rear. From the research I've done the stock speakers are 4 ohm 6.5in. Which is way through hertz speakers are so I'm hoping that I'll get a little better sound once I install them. I also have a hertz amp and mosconi 6to8 dsp along with alpine sub and amo that I'll eventually have installed in the car but that costs $$ so I have to save. This weekend might be especially hot so I don't know if I'll be up for doing the work. As soon as I do I'll circle back here and upload some pics as well.
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