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3.5 liter hybrid build information

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Old 12-06-2010, 08:10 AM
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i got a zex smart kit up to 150 shot and i also got a serious nos kit up to like 250 shot so i gotta see which one il use. im deff gunna run no more then 75 shot so that should do the trick without hurting my engine. my hopes are back up now lol
Old 12-06-2010, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gnuts
TypeR tracked a 13.3 with his 3.5 auto. I think lower 13s is very possible but 12s not without some nitrous or FI. You need very light wheels and an amazing launch & reaction.
Yea, but the auto is much more consistent.
Old 12-06-2010, 12:38 PM
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if he did a 13.3 with his auto without a power adder i know for a damn fact i can run better then that in my 6 speed
Old 12-06-2010, 12:55 PM
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he had a 3.5L stroked motor, P&P, intake, headers, light wheels etc.
Old 12-06-2010, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by type r teggy
if he did a 13.3 with his auto without a power adder i know for a damn fact i can run better then that in my 6 speed
Its difficult launching these cars. If you can do it though,
Old 12-06-2010, 01:20 PM
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This is my build 3.5 stroker with rl pistons, ported heads, ported i/m, Mdx Intake spacer milled in half and ported to match intake. ported t/b and p2r spacer to 71mm., UR pulley. comptech headers, intake and mufflers, race cat, p2r clutch disc Custom spacers for the plenums. Just waiting on the clutch disc, race cat and the mounts to come in the mail so i can put this baby in.
Old 12-06-2010, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Its difficult launching these cars. If you can do it though,

il throw some slicks on lol
Old 12-06-2010, 01:24 PM
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Axles. They break easily:



The MDX spacer wont fit milled in half. Its 40mm stock. I had it down to 15mm and the manifold still hit the hood. And what mounts did you get?

Last edited by civicdrivr; 12-06-2010 at 01:29 PM.
Old 12-06-2010, 02:16 PM
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i got the innovative mounts... damn bro watever i want to do there is some type of setback lol. theres no axles i can buy for the cl?
Old 12-06-2010, 02:44 PM
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There are custom axles you can get for $900 a set.

And the Innovative mounts are known for failures.

The reason things are difficult with this car is because it has one thing the 4 cylinders dont - torque. The torque on the J comes on much earlier putting much more strain on the entire drivetrain. Its not like a K series that makes peak torque near redline.
Old 12-06-2010, 03:06 PM
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Yea I heard that the inovative street ones are known for failure. I got the more stiff 90a ones which I heard last longers.Nd whats the website so I can order the axles?. I want a good reliable build so I guess il just bite the bullet.
Old 12-06-2010, 03:11 PM
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They are custom made from Driveshaft Shop.
Old 12-06-2010, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Yea, but the auto is much more consistent.
i was running withen like a 0.1 or 0.2 everytime with the auto and that was more dependent on if i had open the hood and such to keep the engine from heatsoaking

Originally Posted by type r teggy
il throw some slicks on lol
not really needed at the track i go to, very grippy let alone, everybody is down on power due to the altitude (but a set of soft sidewall slicks would help with launching and such

Originally Posted by civicdrivr
There are custom axles you can get for $900 a set.

And the Innovative mounts are known for failures.

The reason things are difficult with this car is because it has one thing the 4 cylinders dont - torque. The torque on the J comes on much earlier putting much more strain on the entire drivetrain. Its not like a K series that makes peak torque near redline.
try launching a turbo AWD car instead..., they can do amazing launches if you know how; but very hard though, cause like if you let the clutch out too fast, you just bog; if you don't launch in boost, you just bog; basically you better make sure you have a god damn good clutch though, cause you gotta be able to slip it some though (what 2 clutches on two different cars for me in like 2 months )
Old 12-06-2010, 09:30 PM
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if you really are trying to get in the 12's not FI you might as well gut the interior. You can always gut it for the track then return it after. It also puts more weight bias over the front wheels so should help with traction. I would also suggest having some custom traction/wheel hop bars made for the track only.
Old 12-06-2010, 10:21 PM
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Yea, on a car this heavy you need to have the suspension sorted properly to get a good launch.
Old 12-06-2010, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by brian6speed
if you really are trying to get in the 12's not FI you might as well gut the interior. You can always gut it for the track then return it after. It also puts more weight bias over the front wheels so should help with traction. I would also suggest having some custom traction/wheel hop bars made for the track only.
there are a couple of things that you can do with the stock suspension in order to minimize wheel hop and such (biggest thing is we need decent engine mounts though )
Old 12-06-2010, 11:21 PM
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Yea i had plans on fabricating some traction bars. i know itll make the car heavier but hey if it helps out. as for suspension i have koni adjustable shocks with comptech springs in the rear and d2 springs in the front was thinking about getting some tien flex coilovers.. nd besides i wan to slam the brains outa my car lol
Old 12-06-2010, 11:59 PM
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Im confused. Are you trying to slam it or hit 12s? If you slam it, thats counterproductive because you are changing the suspension geometries, and not for the better.
Old 12-07-2010, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Im confused. Are you trying to slam it or hit 12s? If you slam it, thats counterproductive because you are changing the suspension geometries, and not for the better.
it takes 20 minutes to adjust the ride height thats why i wwant some tien flexes
Old 12-07-2010, 02:58 AM
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They dont make the Flex for our car. Basic or SS, which are both geared more for comfort.
Old 12-07-2010, 02:29 PM
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damn if thats the case il just get some d2s. lol saves me some money
Old 05-22-2011, 02:30 PM
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LOOKS like my cl-s 6spd with 3.5 swap would be a beast.
I'm surprised the ecu hasn't been changed on these cars though, like a '07 tl-s 6spd ecu?

rods, pistons, and crank is all i would need?
what about the timing?
Old 05-22-2011, 02:55 PM
  #143  
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wanna see if there are dynos with just the basic 3.5 swap, and our basic bolt ons.
if people are at 275+ whp, then im on this...lol
Old 05-22-2011, 03:31 PM
  #144  
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look up civicdrivr. he has a 3.6L. He has a dyno in his build thread in the pics section.
Old 05-29-2011, 01:07 AM
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Im gonna start piecing this together. I really cant get rid of the mod bug and i really want a lot more power!!...lol
already found a used crank for $130 and the pistons and rig set for $270..at this rate, i may only have $1000 into this or less for all the parts if i can get them while they are cheap...
Old 05-29-2011, 11:41 PM
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I wouldnt buy a used crankshaft, unless its coming with a completely assembled block.
Old 06-09-2011, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
I wouldnt buy a used crankshaft, unless its coming with a completely assembled block.
why is that?

and i found a steal anyways. '04 oddyssey j35a4 complete motor with ported and polished intake manifold for a crackhead price...lol
34k miles too..hopefully i can find a place to put it so i can buy it and rip out the goodies i need for a beast j motor...

Last edited by AARONSredTYPE-S; 06-09-2011 at 09:22 PM.
Old 06-10-2011, 06:51 AM
  #148  
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If you buy just a used crank, you never know if someone dropped it once or something like that. If you buy a whole motor, everything is well protected. GL with your project
Old 07-18-2011, 09:04 AM
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ANYONE HAVE ANY INFO ON A FULL J35A8 SWAP?
Is it possible with minor changes?
im at 135k miles and was wanting to do a 3.5 upgrade, but if the j35a8 will work, i may do that instead because there is more power to be made with it, and it will have a lot less miles than my motor...
i see they are going for about $2-3k
Old 07-18-2011, 01:19 PM
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$2-3k is more then stroking your current engine. And if the person building it know what theyre doing, theyll hone the cylinder walls again and you will basically have a brand new engine. You can even pick up an older J35A4 for under a grand if you want to go that route.
Old 07-18-2011, 08:58 PM
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^^ you wont build 3.5 for that kind of money unless you build it yourself i mean 3-4k i agree but i've done my research and its much better to buy CTSC and you always can resell it
Old 07-27-2011, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetKA
^^ you wont build 3.5 for that kind of money unless you build it yourself i mean 3-4k i agree but i've done my research and its much better to buy CTSC and you always can resell it
Dont know what research you have done but you can do it for far less than 3-4k, especially if you do it yourself. You can buy a new assembled 3.5 shortblock from acura for under 1800. another 300 or less for RL pistons reuse your own heads and you are set. 400 bucks will get you a lightened and knife edged crank and you are still under the 3k lower limit of your estimate.

I have 2200 into mine, all new parts including the lightened crank.
Old 07-28-2011, 09:53 AM
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im just saying that parts are about 1600-2000 and labor balance everything and i dont trust my self to build engine so its like another 1500 + for labor i did research
Old 02-27-2012, 07:26 PM
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so let's say im not sure what i want to do just to make this clear can i just buy an used oddy engine get rl pistons and slap the cls heads on and thats all ? 3.5 here i come ?!
Old 02-27-2012, 09:01 PM
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Yeah. Also, it is a myth that the J35A4 valve reliefs don't clear the type-S valves.

The RL pistons are not required to run the type-S heads. The stock j35a4 bottom-end will bolt directly to the heads with zero mods. If you're running boost, I'd suggest keeping the Oddy pistons to keep the compression down.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetKA
so let's say im not sure what i want to do just to make this clear can i just buy an used oddy engine get rl pistons and slap the cls heads on and thats all ? 3.5 here i come ?!
Do it
Originally Posted by MoneyPit
Yeah. Also, it is a myth that the J35A4 valve reliefs don't clear the type-S valves.

The RL pistons are not required to run the type-S heads. The stock j35a4 bottom-end will bolt directly to the heads with zero mods. If you're running boost, I'd suggest keeping the Oddy pistons to keep the compression down.
You could also run the stock cl-s pistons on the oddy crank and rods. put it all in your J32a2 block and your set.
Old 02-27-2012, 11:21 PM
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The benefit of the RL pistons is the higher compression.
Old 02-28-2012, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MoneyPit
Yeah. Also, it is a myth that the J35A4 valve reliefs don't clear the type-S valves.

The RL pistons are not required to run the type-S heads. The stock j35a4 bottom-end will bolt directly to the heads with zero mods. If you're running boost, I'd suggest keeping the Oddy pistons to keep the compression down.
That's good to know. I'd love to do a 3.5 with the M90 down the road.
Old 02-28-2012, 10:47 AM
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That is even better. What is the compression rate with ody psitons ? Same as cl ? 10.5 ? I dont think i will run boost and i want max the gains if possible but then it better off to buy an new shortblock and rl pistons.



That might be easier than i though it would be if shortblock dont need to be modified. Thats a sweet news. Once again whats the stock j32a2 compression ?

Last edited by StreetKA; 02-28-2012 at 10:53 AM.
Old 02-28-2012, 11:23 AM
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type s is 10.5-supposedally 11.0 for the rl pistons.
I also thought their were descrepences that the type s pistons and rl were the same size.
I would not pull apart a nice short block to install rl pistons.
You will only get 5-10 more hp if that staying with the stock crank bumping the compression .5 .
Do the short block and try a bottle.


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