View Poll Results: Performance Radius Rod Bushings Poll
Yes, I'd be all over this
6
60.00%
Maybe, depends on costs
4
40.00%
No, not interested
0
0%
Voters: 10. You may not vote on this poll
Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll
05-04-2012, 07:42 AM
#163
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Different strokes for different folks. I absolutely love the polyurethane bushings though.
06-01-2012, 07:39 AM
#164
I finally installed the ES bushings and have no rattles or noise from them at all. Surprisingly my oem bushings were still in great shape.
I saved my old front lca's, so I plan on buying the es bushings and test fitting for that next.
I saved my old front lca's, so I plan on buying the es bushings and test fitting for that next.
Last edited by brian6speed; 06-01-2012 at 07:41 AM.
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02-09-2013, 08:06 PM
#166
I got the Moog set and tried to install them today at work and could not break the flanged bolts at the LCA end of RR loose. I tried a breaker bar, blaster, and 3 different impact guns and nada.
Has anyone else ran into this issue? I need to get these bushings in asap, clunking sound has been progressively getting louder and worse.
Has anyone else ran into this issue? I need to get these bushings in asap, clunking sound has been progressively getting louder and worse.
02-09-2013, 10:33 PM
#167
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Use a really long breaker bar. I used a 3' pipe on top of my 1' breaker bar.
02-10-2013, 07:50 AM
#169
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
I added to step #3 to indicate what I had to do to get the RR arm off the LCA, YMMV.
The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
a. Detach the outer tie rod end.
b. Detach the endlink from the swaybar.
c. Detach the strut damper fork from the strut and LCA and set it aside.
d. Detach the lower balljoint, I used the socket handle between the LCA & Knuckle method.
e. Swing the knuckle assembly, supported by a jack, forward slightly. This will move the axle forward and away from the LCA area where the RR flange bolts reside.
f. I used a 19mm impact socket on a long 1/2" breaker bar while slightly pushing down on the LCA to loosen them. Once they are removed from the LCA, follow the remaining steps below.
4. Remove the self-locking nut (I replaced mine, torque to 40 lbf-ft), washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.
When all suspension components have been reassembled, be sure to preload the suspension before torqueing all of their related fasteners.
Good Luck!
The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
a. Detach the outer tie rod end.
b. Detach the endlink from the swaybar.
c. Detach the strut damper fork from the strut and LCA and set it aside.
d. Detach the lower balljoint, I used the socket handle between the LCA & Knuckle method.
e. Swing the knuckle assembly, supported by a jack, forward slightly. This will move the axle forward and away from the LCA area where the RR flange bolts reside.
f. I used a 19mm impact socket on a long 1/2" breaker bar while slightly pushing down on the LCA to loosen them. Once they are removed from the LCA, follow the remaining steps below.
4. Remove the self-locking nut (I replaced mine, torque to 40 lbf-ft), washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.
When all suspension components have been reassembled, be sure to preload the suspension before torqueing all of their related fasteners.
Good Luck!
Last edited by zeta; 02-10-2013 at 07:53 AM.
02-10-2013, 09:41 PM
#170
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
02-10-2013, 10:20 PM
#171
Senior Moderator
Heat them up, they will break loose much easier.
02-11-2013, 08:31 AM
#172
Im going to try at work again probably next week, the only reason I didnt try to heat them was because the endlink boots are like 3/4" off didnt want to melt them, but I can just take the endlink off I suppose.
Civic, I tried with a 2 foot breaker on a 1 foot bar and got nothing. I'll try heat next time.
Civic, I tried with a 2 foot breaker on a 1 foot bar and got nothing. I'll try heat next time.
02-12-2013, 10:16 AM
#173
They are torqued to 119ft lbs. So yes, it's going to be a bit tight. The radius rod keeps the entire wheel assembly from moving back and forth which is especially helpful during acceleration and stopping.
That's why it's so tight. A breaker bar and a strong 19mm socket will do the trick. A galvanized pipe extension can add some extra torque to the breaker bar.
Removing the strut fork will be necessary IIRC. A word of forewarning, it's going to be very hard to get everything back on with the new bushings. I stripped out my RR to LCA bolts and will have to goto the junkyard today to find a suitable LCA/RR replacement for my passenger side.
That's why it's so tight. A breaker bar and a strong 19mm socket will do the trick. A galvanized pipe extension can add some extra torque to the breaker bar.
Removing the strut fork will be necessary IIRC. A word of forewarning, it's going to be very hard to get everything back on with the new bushings. I stripped out my RR to LCA bolts and will have to goto the junkyard today to find a suitable LCA/RR replacement for my passenger side.
02-12-2013, 09:25 PM
#174
They are torqued to 119ft lbs. So yes, it's going to be a bit tight. The radius rod keeps the entire wheel assembly from moving back and forth which is especially helpful during acceleration and stopping.
That's why it's so tight. A breaker bar and a strong 19mm socket will do the trick. A galvanized pipe extension can add some extra torque to the breaker bar.
Removing the strut fork will be necessary IIRC. A word of forewarning, it's going to be very hard to get everything back on with the new bushings. I stripped out my RR to LCA bolts and will have to goto the junkyard today to find a suitable LCA/RR replacement for my passenger side.
That's why it's so tight. A breaker bar and a strong 19mm socket will do the trick. A galvanized pipe extension can add some extra torque to the breaker bar.
Removing the strut fork will be necessary IIRC. A word of forewarning, it's going to be very hard to get everything back on with the new bushings. I stripped out my RR to LCA bolts and will have to goto the junkyard today to find a suitable LCA/RR replacement for my passenger side.
05-20-2013, 02:46 PM
#175
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I am in the process of installing a 3.5 j35 V6 automatic swap in my 99 Accord with all new suspension, running sticky but stock 235/45/17s trying to keep the stock feel (stock springs) with this setup. I bought the MOOG RR bushings, ready to install them and came up on this thread, I would like to have 0 wheel hop with a nice daily driver feel would you recommend going with the OEMs, MOOGS or ES?
05-20-2013, 03:09 PM
#177
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05-20-2013, 03:12 PM
#178
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
ES and Moog bushings are poly, not rubber. I went with ES as well, no issues over I dont even remember how many miles.
If youre still on stock suspension, you're going to have wheel hop.
If youre still on stock suspension, you're going to have wheel hop.
05-20-2013, 03:16 PM
#179
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I know a company that makes custom springs, I ordered them for the rear of my car, they are about 25% stiffer than stock but at stock ride height, would you recommend getting the fronts as well, but maybe 30-35% stiffer?
05-20-2013, 03:20 PM
#180
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I would get slightly stiffer springs for the front as well.
05-20-2013, 03:24 PM
#181
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05-20-2013, 03:28 PM
#182
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
You shouldnt. The RR bushings simply hold the radius rod (and LCA) from moving front and back. Id expect your springs/struts to soak up whatever vibrations they may cause.
Your mounts are polyurethane as well. Its a soft poly, but you may have some vibrations at idle with the a/c on.
Your mounts are polyurethane as well. Its a soft poly, but you may have some vibrations at idle with the a/c on.
05-20-2013, 03:32 PM
#183
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You shouldnt. The RR bushings simply hold the radius rod (and LCA) from moving front and back. Id expect your springs/struts to soak up whatever vibrations they may cause.
Your mounts are polyurethane as well. Its a soft poly, but you may have some vibrations at idle with the a/c on.
Your mounts are polyurethane as well. Its a soft poly, but you may have some vibrations at idle with the a/c on.
So if I don't change those springs to slightly stiffer, I will get some wheel hop even though its an auto and I don't plan on drag racing it? (Highway abuse and some 2nd-3rd gear pulls)
05-20-2013, 03:35 PM
#184
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I think going with slightly stiffer springs will help reduce wheel hop. For sure, with the torque, the stock springs will give you wheel hop.
I dont know all the specs of your build though, so its hard for me to definitively say.
I dont know all the specs of your build though, so its hard for me to definitively say.
05-20-2013, 03:38 PM
#185
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I just don't fully understand how the ride height affects wheel hop I just tgought if the rear springs are stiffer the front shouldn't come up as much. Im expecting just around 250hp/250hp at the wheels on this build.
05-20-2013, 03:46 PM
#186
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Its not ride height, its spring rate and damping that effects wheel hop.
05-20-2013, 04:08 PM
#187
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05-20-2013, 04:10 PM
#188
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
If you are going to exchange the struts, look at Koni. I love their stuff.
But the spring would make a bigger difference.
But the spring would make a bigger difference.
05-20-2013, 04:35 PM
#190
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Yea. Lifetime warranty plus Koni can build them however you like.
05-20-2013, 05:19 PM
#191
Senior Moderator
You want a shock like the Koni that has adjustable Rebound and Dampening. Stiffer springs wont do anything. The shock is what helps control the movement. (along with the other mounts you have) I have the Konis and for about 99% of the time i have zero hop. The only time i tend to occasionally get it is on wet pavement, never on dry
05-20-2013, 07:51 PM
#192
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How's this one?
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/kon-8041-1257spt
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/kon-8041-1257spt
10-22-2013, 02:38 PM
#194
Just to chime in, I was having a lot of creaking noises when starting and stopping coming from the suspension. I found that the problem was the radius rod bushings. (also called strut rod bushings. The old ones still felt good, very rubbery, but I thought this had to be the cause of the noises. I checked all the ball joints and control arm bushings, the shocks are new Monroe (came on the car), and the top mounts look good, all the bolts were checked for tightness, and still having noise.
I replaced the RR bushings with cheap MEVOTECH "improved design" blue bushings from Rock Auto. They seem to be more like polyurethane. Much harder than the original rubber. It was not too much trouble. I dropped the LCA off the bottom shock mount and got access to the RR bolts with 19mm ratchet wrench. The noise is gone. So if you have creaking / popping noise when starting and stopping, change these bushings.
I also did the sway bar mount bushings, but I doubt that was the problem.
I replaced the outer tie rod ends which really firmed up the steering and eliminated some highway wobble I was seeing. That was a really cheap and easy job too.
I replaced the RR bushings with cheap MEVOTECH "improved design" blue bushings from Rock Auto. They seem to be more like polyurethane. Much harder than the original rubber. It was not too much trouble. I dropped the LCA off the bottom shock mount and got access to the RR bolts with 19mm ratchet wrench. The noise is gone. So if you have creaking / popping noise when starting and stopping, change these bushings.
I also did the sway bar mount bushings, but I doubt that was the problem.
I replaced the outer tie rod ends which really firmed up the steering and eliminated some highway wobble I was seeing. That was a really cheap and easy job too.
12-04-2013, 09:33 AM
#195
I found another item while researching.
http://www.armstrongdistributors.com/honda.html
http://store.lpdautoparts.com/9802--...shing9802.html
They are poly front upper control arm bushings for the 98-02 accord which has the same control arms as us and the 2nd gen tl.
So now I have provided info on the rr bushings, lca bushings, and upper control arm bushings.
I will order a set and install them in my spare control arms.
http://www.armstrongdistributors.com/honda.html
http://store.lpdautoparts.com/9802--...shing9802.html
They are poly front upper control arm bushings for the 98-02 accord which has the same control arms as us and the 2nd gen tl.
So now I have provided info on the rr bushings, lca bushings, and upper control arm bushings.
I will order a set and install them in my spare control arms.
The following users liked this post:
03 tls nc (12-04-2013)
12-06-2013, 09:40 PM
#198
Pro
iTrader: (6)
The short answer they help will keep the front wheels stay in proper alignment to the ground, preventing wheel hop, axle bind and make the steering feel more responsive. Not to mention with age of these cars the factory rubber has lived its life, its time for a replacement so why not make things a little better in the process 
.
.
12-09-2013, 06:43 PM
#199
2003 Acura CL-S6
Just to chime in, I was having a lot of creaking noises when starting and stopping coming from the suspension. I found that the problem was the radius rod bushings. (also called strut rod bushings. The old ones still felt good, very rubbery, but I thought this had to be the cause of the noises. I checked all the ball joints and control arm bushings, the shocks are new Monroe (came on the car), and the top mounts look good, all the bolts were checked for tightness, and still having noise.
I replaced the RR bushings with cheap MEVOTECH "improved design" blue bushings from Rock Auto. They seem to be more like polyurethane. Much harder than the original rubber. It was not too much trouble. I dropped the LCA off the bottom shock mount and got access to the RR bolts with 19mm ratchet wrench. The noise is gone. So if you have creaking / popping noise when starting and stopping, change these bushings.
I also did the sway bar mount bushings, but I doubt that was the problem.
I replaced the outer tie rod ends which really firmed up the steering and eliminated some highway wobble I was seeing. That was a really cheap and easy job too.
I replaced the RR bushings with cheap MEVOTECH "improved design" blue bushings from Rock Auto. They seem to be more like polyurethane. Much harder than the original rubber. It was not too much trouble. I dropped the LCA off the bottom shock mount and got access to the RR bolts with 19mm ratchet wrench. The noise is gone. So if you have creaking / popping noise when starting and stopping, change these bushings.
I also did the sway bar mount bushings, but I doubt that was the problem.
I replaced the outer tie rod ends which really firmed up the steering and eliminated some highway wobble I was seeing. That was a really cheap and easy job too.