RUF87

It's been about 1 1/2 years since we've visited the topic of having some performance radius rod bushings made for 2nd Gen TLs.

If you are interested in this mod please respond accordingly.

1) Yes, I'd be all over this
2) Maybe, depends on costs
3) No, not interested

Ruf

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i noticed that i have alot of wheel movement when i let my brother drive my car while he was leting clutch of the wheel started to move alot back and forth im not sure if that can be caused by mounts or only radious rod bushings

sounds like another 2 years of development

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I would be interested. I have the moog improved design ones that I havn't installed yet so not sure if they are an improvement. They are alot stiffer than stock ones tho just by feel.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyes.....

All it would take is a mold and pouring some polyurethane. Theres nothing to the stock bushings, just a big chunk of rubber.

Moog makes radius rod bushings?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Yes, I bought mine from rockauto. They are called strut rod bushings. In the pic below the blue are the moog and the black one is stock. The stock one I can easily flex in my hand. The moog one I can't flex at all.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Interesting. I saw those on their site but their name for them threw me off. The Accord shares the same part, so the should fit. Good thing, Ive got a set of ES (I think) bushings off an Accord sitting in my garage

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Brian i will try that out too. To be honest im not sure where is this bushing placed but i will find it. It just sucks to work on my car because all the bolts are so rusted.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

You remove the black plastic piece under the engine bay and you will see them.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

That Moog kit (#K9733) looks very interesting for $26.99 at RA.

If they are the same, when you get a chance, please post up the ES part # for further research.

BTW, has anyone actually ever replaced the radius rod bushings on the CL-S?

The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
4. Remove the self-locking nut, washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.

The reason I ask is because those flange bolts are a MFer to work with since space is tight in that area due to the axle. Making socket/wrench positioning difficult for removal/reinstall and final torque to 119lbf-ft.
I guess one could pop the lower ball joint for more flexability, however.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i got the same ones that brian has. just need to install them. but if we can get stiffer ones. or solid ones like the had for the preludes a while back, id be down

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

is it kit for both sides i guess ? am i right ?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

The tapered end of the larger one points to the front of the car and the tapered end of the small one points toward the rear, two for each side.

If your caster angle is out of normal limits the manual states to:

'Adjust the caster angle by increasing/decreasing the adjustment shims.
Note these items during adjustment:
-Do not use more than two adjusting shims.
-One adjusting shim changes the caster angle by 35` and the caster angle can be adjusted by 1 degree 10` maximum.
-One adjusting shim is 3.2mm (0.13in.) in thickness.'

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Those flange bolts are a royal pain in the ass to remove. When I replace the RR bushings, Im going to replace my lower control arms too since those bushings have 140k on them, and hopefully it will make it easier to remove those bolts. I will be doing that probably within the next month or two.

The ES part number is 16.7103 but they are just the bushings, they dont include the sleeve or any washers. They were ~$20 for the set.

I got them here:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103

Theyre pretty good, I ordered a few things from them.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

As stated by civicdrivr the (radius rod busings) OEM part numbers for the 02 Accord share the same part numbers for the 03 CL-S.

I just ordered a set of ES 16.7103's ($17.99) with a prelube tube (2.99) just in case. If my shit has not been blown away from a hurricane this time next week, I will try to get them installed ASAP. Will post here with any issues and details of the install.

In addition, ES has the Moog kit #K9733 on thier website supporting the 02 Accord Coupe as well for $35.94. I was going to get those but decided to opt for the ES since I was not at all impressed with Moog's inner/outer LCA bushings when I tried them.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Someone buy the master bushing kit for the 2001 prelude sh and see what fits our car. If noone else does I might eventually do it.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

You would have to start at the '96 master kit first since that is the last year for the radius rod set-up on the Prelude. The ES 16.7103 is applicable to that model year (96).

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Thats only the SH model that uses the horizontal bushing setup. The base model still used the conventional radius rod setup.

RUF87

Ah, my 98 Prelude still has a radius rod set up so I may just take one the front and compare them . . . as soon as the temps drop a little bit. It's about 110+ in the garage.

Just checked . . . the 98 Prelude and 2nd Gen CL/TL have the same part number . . .

Ruf

zeta

iTrader: (1)

lol, Ops, the SH was the only model I checked. You guys are good.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

98 base Prelude:
51381-SX0-013 011 002 BUSH, FR. RADIUS ROD (RR) (HOKUSHIN)
51391-SX0-013 012 002 BUSH, FR. RADIUS ROD (FR) (HOKUSHIN)

03 TL/CL:
51381-S84-A01 BUSH, FR. RADIUS ROD (RR)
51391-S84-A01 BUSH, RADIUS ROD (FR)

They share the first five digits; however, they appear to differ slightly in the parts diagrams.

After awhile, to me anyways, it seems like those numbers all blur together similarly.

anthracitecl

iTrader: (7)

I'm down for this!!



My car did same thing before. My buddy told me that i have wheel movement back and forth. so i removed radius rod for checking. sure enough my bushings were bad. I replaced w/moog bushing kit. and kit doesn't come with locking nuts. I had to buy 2 new self-locking nuts. after that we checked if there's still movement. There wasn't movement. That's like 1.5year ago. maybe 2. I think it's time to check again.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

There you go, that's great feedback! Now it's been confirmed that the Moogs are a viable alternative as well.

Skatin

Just ordered a set of Moog's today.

RUF87

Now that we know the bushings are the same for the CL/TL as certain model year Accords and Preludes maybe we'll find some more options.

Here's one that I found. It would be good to know how the Moog and these match up.


http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/r...tion=000783109

Ruf

RUF87

Okay, I just caught this the Moog K9733 are strut mount bushings, but you guys say they are the same spec as the radius rod bushings?

Just want to make sure because if they are not the exactly the same I'm not going to mess with them.

Ruf

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

MOOG calls the radius rod bushings the strut rod bushings. Its misleading.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

From what I can find on RockAuto and per brian6speed above, the Moog K9733 kit is for CL/TL 'radius rod' use. The confusion pertains to the symantics of the description, meaning 'strut rod' bushing kit.

For instance, Moog #K9492 is in regards to the upper front suspension 'strut mount kit' meaning 'shock/strut' mount rubber. see link below.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=225530

RUF87

And to add to the confusion . . . they show 2 steel rod inserts which would typically be for the lower strut. So with both the picture and the decription being goofy I'm not ready to buy off on it. Either they made mistakes on the description and picture or they are incorrect. Let's double check this as changing them out is a bit of a pain.

Ruf

anthracitecl

iTrader: (7)

I just found my receipt for Moog bushing kit. It shows part# K9733. I paid $38.70

slowcl-s

iTrader: (1)

They also have Prothane bushings available and are a little bit cheaper: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...asp?prod=81202

Which are better Energy Bushings or Prothane?

rp_guy

http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K9733-Bus.../dp/B000C5A1HK

$29.84 including shipping from amazon


http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspens.../dp/B000CNAVL8

$21.03 (cheaper than other sites but need cart to be over $25 for free amazon shipping)


i think i'm going with the energy ones though.. and just reuse the collar and washers

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I just received my set of ES #16.7103 radius rod bushings today. They look exactly like the set depicted on the link below:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103

If the picture on ES' website had something next to them to show their scale, it would be apparent that these are in fact the correct size for radius rod applications.

In addition, holding these in my hands and comparing them to brian6speeds pictures above, the Moogs do, IMHO, appear to be the same size. I can barely get the 16.7103's to bend when trying to squeeze on them like in the photo above. I'm impressed and will try and get them installed ASAP.

CLSspeedx

Good to know thanks zeta! I'm going to work on my suspension after I get my car from the transmission shop. I'm planning on getting new radius rods and think I'll change out the bushings... Good luck getting them installed!

Blitz

Full write up with detailed pictures for those of us slightly mechanically challenged.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

lol, refer to post #9. Those steps are straight from the manual. As mentioned in that post, step 3; removal of the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA will pose as the largest hurdle. If you are not familiar with this area by prior work exposure, it would be best to let a local shop perform the job. Depending on the types of tools available to the individual, it could be real easy or labor intensive because access to those bolts for wrenching is very tight.

Skatin

Dude you have a very hairy hand!!! Hahaha...

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

are u a girl ?

RUF87

It is definitely easier to do when the lower control arm is dropped. It's a real pita . . . I may check Harbor Freight and see if they have a extra long wrench. It was real easy when I had the axles out.

Ruf

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I installed these ES radius rod bushings today and it went very smooth. Took the car for a quick spin and it felt tighter/firmer. I did'nt go to crazy because the next step is to get an alignment to see if the caster is in the green. Logically, everything SHOULD be within normal limits with just the new bushing install; however, I have learned that my front suspension can be finicky when I go and mess with it.

The old stock bushings were SOFT, just like in brian6speeds photos above. They were not cracked/split or deteriorated, just contorted from being compressed/used for the last 125K or so. 80K of those 120K have been with the added weight of a S/C'er, so that has to be factored into the overall effect on the whole suspension geometry as well. They needed to be replaced.

I added to step #3 to indicate what I had to do to get the RR arm off the LCA, YMMV.

The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
a. Detach the outer tie rod end.
b. Detach the endlink from the swaybar.
c. Detach the strut damper fork from the strut and LCA and set it aside.
d. Detach the lower balljoint, I used the socket handle between the LCA & Knuckle method.
e. Swing the knuckle assembly, supported by a jack, forward slightly. This will move the axle forward and away from the LCA area where the RR flange bolts reside.
f. I used a 19mm impact socket on a long 1/2" breaker bar while slightly pushing down on the LCA to loosen them. Once they are removed from the LCA, follow the remaining steps below.
4. Remove the self-locking nut (I replaced mine, torque to 40 lbf-ft), washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.

When all suspension components have been reassembled, be sure to preload the suspension before torqueing all of their related fasteners.

Good Luck!

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

wtf, are you a girl or a 10 year old boy who hasnt hit puberty yet.