I am trying to hardwire my V1 into the overhead console. I want to use the moonroof power to power it. Here are a few pictures, does anyone know which wire is the power wire that I need to tap into?

Thanks,
-Brandon

 

Have you consider tapping to a fuse or using the accessories slots behind the fuse box (these are present on the 99-03 TL, I have yet to check my 04 TL for these slots, I'm sure they are still present). If you're going to tap a fuse, you can buy "add a fuse" at wal mart/kmart. These provide an additional fuse and makes things safer then tapping directly to wires.

 

Also tapping wires directly can lead to in the long run oxidation of the wires which can cause shorts on it's own.

 

The last time I looked at the wires in my 96TL, and the 04TL is probably the same, they are so thin that I was worried they would break if I tried to put a tap on them. If I did use this thin wiring, I would have to cut, splice, and solder, and that would be more work than it is worth so I would be prone to using the fuse box, as advised above.

In the interior fuse box (picture on page 248 of the owner's manual), fuses 29 and 31 are switched fuses and can be used for this purpose.

 

Got it! V1 is installed! It's the far right green wire if anyone is wondering.

Thanks,
-Brandon

 

I was gonna suggest a digital volt-ohm meter, or a poor man's meter - take a 12 VDC bulb, solder small wire leads in the center of the connector and the outer case, attach the outler case wire to a body ground, and when the bulb lights. you have juice!

 

Do not tap into the wires! Head over to Autozone and buy one of those "add a circuit" fuse taps. You can then hardwire it to the fuse block without cutting into the factory wires. Easy to remove too.

 

Umm...the red one; no wait, the green one; oh, I mean the white one; hold on...

 

Just in case you didn't see, I already figured it out. It was the green one. I used one of those clip on wire tappers that you can remove (it came with the V1 hardwire kit).

Thanks,
-Brandon

 

Helm offers an Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for about $47. Order it with the factory Service Manual and you will have more info that you can ever use.

 

U meant the first green from the right?

Edit: OK. The far right green wire. Haha...

 

Is it the green wire with the white stripe? What did you ground to up there?

 

Yeah, it's the first one on the end. Green with some white on it. I ground to the piece of metal where one of the bolts goes in to hold the entire overhead console in place. (In the second picture, it is the piece of metal underneath the bolt pictured.)

-Brandon

 

Buy yourself an electrical wiring diagram so you won't have anyone to blame except yourself if your fry something

 

Thank you for the clarity on which green wire is the switched 12V+. I'll be wiring in my detector this weekend and running a cable to fuse box is a bit ghetto IMO.

 

agreed...that's my plan too

 

ok, I'm kinda disappointed. I thought that the green wire to the far right was switched 12V- it's NOT. I wired up my radar detector this afternoon. It looks very clean, but stays on all the time...it doesn't cut off when I take the key out. Anyone know which wire is switched 12V?

 

ok, disregard the post above...evidently I was too anxious to go out to the bars that I didn't wait long enough to let it power down. Everything works great! Thanks for the help everybody!

 

I'm still waiting for my hardware kit to arrive so I haven't taken anything apart yet. Could you clarify the color of the wire you used? Looking at the picture it doesn't look like it's a solid green, maybe green/white?

 

It just used a t-tap into the green wire with white stripe......grounded to one of the screws up top....

I know this has been explained a few times, but I'm puttin in my two cents....maybe it'll help someone.

LEGEND: front = towards front of vehicle

1. Take small flathead screwdriver and pop out map light covers (pry in slot from front). Comes out very easily.

2. I pried the reflector from the front. You'll see the two little tabs come out of place. Now, on the sides towards the back, there are two tabs holding the reflector in. One side moves- I think it the inside tab. Push this back just enough to get the reflector in front of this tab. The whole thing should pull out fairly easily.

3. Gently pull the overhead console down and unhook the two harnesses (black and green).

4. 12V switched power is the green/white stripe wire on the green harness.

5. You'll see a couple of bolts that look like either 8mm or 10mm, you do not need to take these out. I loosened one of them b/c this is what I grounded to.

I ran my wire through the tiny gap between the headliner trim and the windshield. I kinda pryed it back with my flathead screwdriver to make it fit. Everything fits good.

 

It might lead to a small increase in resistance in an especially humid environment or prolonged exposure to water, but it is doubtful if it would cause a short circuit. That is where power diverts to ground. Im an an EE, and have used taps under the hood for years with no problems, even with low voltage (5V or lower) sensors. The 12+VDC internal wiring would be even less sensitive to resistive increases, since the delta is lower because the voltage drop is proportionally lower.

 

I installed mine today with one problem. the connection with the blue plastic piece that came with the V1, is intermitten. Almost as if the plug is not making a good connection. Anyone else have that issue, or any ideas? I have redid several times with no luck. If i touch the wire it goes off then back on.

 

I plan on hard wiring my V1 this weekend.
Check the following:
1. Tap is crimped properly to the Green & White wire. Use needle nose pliers.
2. The metal tip on the red wire is inserted all the way into the blue tap.
3. Wire is grounded properly. If all else fails try another screw.
4. Try using a different phone cord.
Hope this helps!


Where are you guys putting the Direct-Wire power adapter????
thanks!

 

202. Moonroof Switch
- GRN
- Front of Roof
- On roof wire harness

. . . T . . .
1 2 3 4 5 6 7

1 GRN/WHT (Key off timer circuit)
2 GRN/ORN (Tilt Output)
3 LT GRN/BLK (CLOSE output)
4 RED/BLK (Illumination (positive) circuit)
5 RED (Illumination (negative) circuit - bulbs)
6 GRY/RED (AUTO output)
7 GRY/BLU (OPEN output)

 

There is also supposedly a 10x2 connector up there in the same area. Connector is Black/White supposedly and has a good Ground wire on it.

. . . . .T. . . . .
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

2 BLK (Ground 503 and Ground 601)

T = Key on the connector

 

.... inny mini, miney, mo...

 

bwahahah.....



not sure what you guys have to hook up with the V1, but I don't see why'd you'd have any trouble.....my install took no more than 10 minutes.

 

Anyone know if this is possible to do on a Passport Escort as well??

 

should be the same.

 

Guys,



Just did mine with the Invisicord. Remember the key is to get the moonroof switch out without damage. Use a feeler gauge to push the latch in and the switch falls out no problem. I will show the whole process below:





This is the feeler gauge. Whatever you use has to be thin enough to slip between the switch body and the moon roof console housing.









Insert the blade into the gap at the top of the switch body.









As you push the blade in the switch will pop out as soon as the latch disengages.











Pull the switch out and then detach it from the connector by pressing in on the center catch on the switch. This will allow the connector to come out. Once the switch is out pull down on the top of the panel from inside of the switch mounting hole and the whole panel will pop out. It only has one center mounted clip and comes out very easily.







The three wire connector that goes to the auto-dimming mirror is the best place to get power. Push the Invisicord probes into the back of the connector. You can see the red and white wire of the Invisicord coming in from the left side of the blue connector. Black is ground, Yellow/green is switched +12VDC from the ignition. You can use wire ties to secure the invisidord wire to the mirror power so the Invisicord connectors do not get pulled out.







It’s a Done deal

 

excellant write-up Steve

 

The tip on using the feeler gauge to pop out the moon roof switch is great! Mine took a .011 feeler.

Thanks for the tip!

Steve

 

Hardwired my Escort 8500 x50 today. Made my own "invisicord" using an old phone cable. It's not black, but hey silver is close enough for the short length - besides, it's 99% hidden.

I did pick up one tip, and that was to use some pins narfed from an old computer cable. Worked great. I picked up power from the mirror lines in the overhead console.

Thanks to all contributors!

Steve

 

Nearly 8-yr-old thread and almost 4 since any updates, but still timeless. (Obviously still useful as I see four "guests" lurking in this thread as I write.) Busted the connector on my current V1 cord (the plastic piece that clicks and keeps it locked together). I couldn't trust the cord to stay connected, even with tape. I thought heck, I'll just turn the cord around and use that good end and tape the bad end to the cigarette lighter plug-in. Nope. That end was already busted and taped. Remembered I had an old invisicord laying in the toolbox from a since-traded-off C6 Corvette. Used this thread and it worked like a charm! Thanks much Steve (assuming you're still on here). One item I can add. Instead of a feeler gauge, I just used our largest (and mostly dull) kitchen knife and popped the switch open without a scratch. Thanks again Acurazine community!

 

Excellent necro Pat! I've been looking for this for a bit.

Thanks!

 

^ You're welcome! Glad I could help. Comes on only with ignition on. Stays off in accessory mode. One additional note since I installed it: In my '04, the V1 shuts off anytime I put it in reverse (6MT). Comes back on in neutral or a forward gear. Not a big deal, but it throws ya for a loop the first time. Obviously makes the setup a lot more stealthy...

 

Hello all,

So, there are 2 sources of power mentioned in this thread, near the auto-dimming mirror:
1) Mirror's blue 3-wire connector: BLACK is ground, YELLOW or GREEN is +12v
- Power comes on with key going into ON position
- Power comes off with key leaving ON position

2) Green 7-wire connector, GREEN/WHITE is +12v:
- Power comes on with key going into ON position
- Power comes off after you move they key away from ON position AND open the door (this is what I figured).

Now, this works well for radar detectors - as you only need them when moving.

However, I need to power a video recorder. In some cases, I may need it with key in ACCESSORY position. I.e. if, after an accident, I shut down the engine and exit the car, but leave the recorder on.

Anybody has the pinout for the black 10x2 connector ?
(or if anyone has the full electrical manual, that's even better - would appreciate a PM).

 

Excellent first post

 

Arshir,

Been considering installing a dash cam and joined the community to try to sift through its knowledge base regarding how to go about this. If you end up doing your install I'd love to hear about it and maybe see some pics of how you did your installation! Thanks!

 

Excellent post, thank you! I bought my TL last Monday and need to transfer over the V1 hardwire stuff I currently have in my Miata which is being sold.