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I wanted to clear the air with many comments about tunes and possible power figures. You can not compare the K20C engine which is a well known to an unknown J30AT engine. The K20C has forged internals as does the J30AT, however this doesn't always mean the engine can support north of 400 to 500 wHP.. The vehicle dynos at 280ish wheel horse power. We are talking about gaining an additional 120+ wHP
All very good points. It really depends on what one's expectation is. My expectation in the sense of reflash tune is around +5psi, +20% power, really similar to what those guys have done to K20C. Like you say, anything more than that would likely be more involved.
Its not so much that it’s underboosted, it appears that it’s undersized if anything. From what I could find, the TLX is running more boost than its German counterparts. It makes sense … smaller compressor for quicker response. This is why the big end doesn’t feel exactly inspired, as well as the low 6200 RPM redline.
I personally believe you’re going to need to do a turbo swap to gain significant power from this motor, as well as raise redline to take advantage of the shift in the power curve.
Yes, I do fully agree with you which was something I was going to add to my previous post but figured it would be a waste of time for individuals that don't understand the mechanical aspect of things. In order for the TLX-S to achieve such figures, an upgraded turbo is almost a must. Even with a down pipe and a reflash tune, I don't see it gaining enough to close the gap to 400+ wHP. The TLX-S is running higher boost vs the rest of the competition, that is a fact for sure. I don't know how much more wiggle room they have to up the boost on that turbo, which again, is something that most are NOT understanding.. The J30AT is an ass backwards design of an engine.
TD04, exactly which model I haven't seen it mentioned. So that is where my underboost comment comes from, because it the turbo characterristics is similar to CTR, then closer to 20psi should be reasonable.
That's the same Turbo i've seen as well. Thank you for the information
Originally Posted by sonyfever
All very good points. It really depends on what one's expectation is. My expectation in the sense of reflash tune is around +5psi, +20% power, really similar to what those guys have done to K20C. Like you say, anything more than that would likely be more involved.
Yeah I agree, I just don't see huge figures on a reflash alone. It will need some supporting mods like at least a downpipe to close some of the gap needed. Other than that, I believe an upgraded turbo is needed.
Yes, I do fully agree with you which was something I was going to add to my previous post but figured it would be a waste of time for individuals that don't understand the mechanical aspect of things. In order for the TLX-S to achieve such figures, an upgraded turbo is almost a must. Even with a down pipe and a reflash tune, I don't see it gaining enough to close the gap to 400+ wHP. The TLX-S is running higher boost vs the rest of the competition, that is a fact for sure. I don't know how much more wiggle room they have to up the boost on that turbo, which again, is something that most are NOT understanding.. The J30AT is an ass backwards design of an engine.
I too was a bit disappointed with the type-s performance numbers that have come out, but I'm still getting one. I think it looks way better than any of its competitors and history tells me that an Acura is certainly going to be more reliable than anything from Germany or Korea. I always purchase, so reliability is important to me. I went for just about every accessory too (carbon fiber bits inside and out, welcome light, car cover, trunk tray, all emblems in black chrome, lip kit, black lug nuts, black wheel locks). It's a $60k car now lol. Some people might think I'm crazy to spend that much instead of getting an equivalent S4 or M340i. I'm not. I just really really like the Type-S. I wouldn't be happy driving a faster car with what I feel are vanilla looks and a worrisome brand history with reliability. For what I'm looking for, the only advantage the German or Korean competitors have over the type-s is speed. That's it. For those of you who are enthusiasts that really like Acuras, aren't you curious to see what the aftermarket holds for the type-s? Hopefully a proper tune will remedy the speed issue.
In general I still see Toyota/Lexus and Honda/Acura better than overall reliability and durability over German brands. Their quality systems (i.e. TPS,...) are better overall when it comes to a variety of things (technology, subcontractors, production, corrective action,....), and they've been using them for decades. Doesn't mean that a particular Lexus or Acura will be more reliable than a particular German rival, the German brands have vastly improved from their disastrous 90's and 00's who were not alone at Honda/Acura with their horrendous late 90's early 00's V6 4AT/5AT transaxle woes which affected ALOT of cars. The only people that know the absolute truth are the quality departments at the respective auto makers who probably track failures and such with lot of databases and analytics, not of us know beyond observations.
The German's have come a long way in terms of quality/reliability/durability in the 2010's, today I see most modern German vehicles of them being pretty reliable for ~100k-150k miles and 10-15 years. Beyond that's who's to say, I still see one of the greater issues of BMW is seals and gaskets which still seem to have woes for long term service life. Still amused BMW can't develop a simple cylinder head cover gasket that can last 100k miles, heck I'm I'm about to change the timing belt/water pump on my daughters 2003 Pilot with 330k miles and it's on the on the original hoses and all the gaskets and does not leak. Truly amazing to say the least, I expect the front main seal to be it's typical bone dry on the crank when I take off the lower TB cover. Also many owners don't keep their cars that long as well.
That's not to say it's all great in Honda quality wise, the CEO noted it's quality problems a few years ago which is causing it profitability to reduce to just 2-3% gross which is significant.
AoA recently also did a excellent video segment on auto quality and why it's so difficult to get accurate data for us consumers.
Originally Posted by justnspace
it's a brand new engine, we dont know if it's reliable yet.
BMW's on the other hand have been refining their turbo engines for over a decade.
Agree, but I expect the Type-S to be like other typical reliable Acura's like the NSX, MDX,...
More than likely it's been run through many long term bench and vehicle testing regimes.
Looks similar in effort to the Honda salesman (nice guy, we talked TL's while the CR-V was being final prep'ed) who sold my wife her CR-V who had a 2007 Type-S he mod'ed fairly extremely.
Made MotorTrend issue as well
I wanted to clear the air with many comments about tunes and possible power figures. You can not compare the K20C engine which is a well known to an unknown J30AT engine. The K20C has forged internals as does the J30AT, however this doesn't always mean the engine can support north of 400 to 500 wHP.. The vehicle dynos at 280ish wheel horse power. We are talking about gaining an additional 120+ wHP, which is no small task even with a reflash tune. Ideally for longevity on the engine for boosted applications the internals are forged. The J30AT is still an open deck design, regardless of how thick the walls are. We can't all assume numbers here just because of what one completely different engine does vs the other. It's not an equal comparison. As an example, my J32 running on 3-5 PSI (realistically 3-4 psi), on the stock injectors, stock fuel pump, comptech ACM management with supporting mods nearly put down 340 wHP and 287 TQ. Now it would likely reach 340 as I upgraded to a better J-pipe. Regardless for argument sake, the J32 block can safely hold up to 8 - 9 PSI. After that it's game over. This is an ancient engine, without forged internals, without 6 bolt mains, without thick cylinder walls can has been proven to hit well over 400 wHP. HOWEVER, this is still basic FWD setup. The automatic transmissions normally crap shoot quickly. Most of the power guys are 6MT. The CT-R is still FWD. Factor in the SH-AWD setup and you're dealing with more in between to put the power down. There's no debate if the engine can support the additional power, the real question is, can the transmission and SH-AWD setup handle it? That's where most are missing the point. Can't have reliability in the same sentence when you're looking to gain an additional 120+ wHP (which is a lot more to the crank)
Just want add about just throwing on a tune etc. Expect Legend 2TL to fact check me but think I remember. My 335is that was eventually moded to 410WHP, started out with 320LBFT stock @ 10PSI. It had a factory over boost for a short term 7-10 seconds in specific gears at specific RPM's, over boost was 15psi for 370LBFT. My max boost was 18.5PSI after mods, car ran 12.1 @ 117mph. Stock was 13.1-13.2 @ 110mph.
Why this, because I believe I read the TLX-S is currently running a max boost @ 15.1PSI MAX. Mid level mods, the 335is was running 15PSI max in every gear for the whole quarter mile I ran 12.5 @ 114MPH (still listed on Drag Times)
Dynos @ that level ran in the 360-370WHP range. Can't be exact as I was beta testing multiple versions of the 335is specific JB4 tune. My old farts brain can't exactly remember & for this exercise its not important enough to look up.
Be interesting to see how much over boost headroom Honda left in the current engine. Also with a new not yet tested by the public engine you want to be very very careful that you are not buying a new one out of pocket. If you can't afford to buy one don't be dumb. New engine = no wrecking yard supply yet.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 07-26-2021 at 11:15 AM.
Yes and just an FYI, a majority of 3rd gen TL owners who do go the turbo route, have a similar setup since there's not much space to mount a single turbo under the hood. Other two options are either a comptech supercharger or Andy rotrex supercharger. With Andy's kit the Rotrex unit is mounted in place of the A/C compressor. The similar setup is old news for the J-Series that goes back well over 15+ years ago. I still believe Acura took some of the design from those that have done it here.
Meh, maybe… I have a 2G MDX with a 3.7L. That was a brand new engine. No issues other than it gets 13MPG avg.
I have a 16yr friend that also went to Honda PACT and is a Master Technician - his words - the 2.0T is rock solid, why wouldn’t this one be, just like (almost) every other engine Honda has developed.
Also as far as the weight goes, they made the NSX 25 GRAMS lighter with the shift boot, probably why they went with no spare tire and ditched the surround camera on the Type S (as ridiculous as it sounds). Just tear out all the seats, air conditioning and whatever else you can throw out, boom 4 second car.
So you are going to tear out how many dollars worth of parts & equipment to equal cars that cost how much more. A base M340 MSRP is $54,700 which will have more stuff in it before you can maybe get the weight down, stripped body with a lawn chair, for a competitive time
Is there ducting or a draw for that air intake? Looks like a hot air intake, especially with no shielding from the rest of the engine bay. Anyone know how much power that Pike’s Peak TLX was making? Couldn’t find figures from a quick Google search.
On the plus side, it does appear that a turbo swap is going to be incredibly easy.
Just want add about just throwing on a tune etc. Expect Legend 2TL to fact check me but think I remember. My 335is that was eventually moded to 410WHP, started out with 320LBFT stock @ 10PSI. It had a factory over boost for a short term 7-10 seconds in specific gears at specific RPM's, over boost was 15psi for 370LBFT. My max boost was 18.5PSI after mods, car ran 12.1 @ 117mph. Stock was 13.1-13.2 @ 110mph.
Why this, because I believe I read the TLX-S is currently running a max boost @ 15.1PSI MAX. Mid level mods, the 335is was running 15PSI max in every gear for the whole quarter mile I ran 12.5 @ 114MPH (still listed on Drag Times)
Dynos @ that level ran in the 360-370WHP range. Can't be exact as I was beta testing multiple versions of the 335is specific JB4 tune. My old farts brain can't exactly remember & for this exercise its not important enough to look up.
Be interesting to see how much over boost headroom Honda left in the current engine. Also with a new not yet tested by the public engine you want to be very very careful that you are not buying a new one out of pocket. If you can't afford to buy one don't be dumb. New engine = no wrecking yard supply yet.
As always great post Bear. In directly response to Legends post of shayne turbo TL-S, it's nothing new as far as the setup goes. It's been done and the 1st to do so with the 3rd gen TL was Rodney Brown back in 2009. Shaynes setup is done with the up most quality of parts use and fabrication. In regards to the TLX-S, the TD04 turbo has been used in a wide range of applications. It's a Mitsubishi unit. I'd assume that there's probably an upgraded version of this turbo but doubt there's one for a direct swap for the TLX-S. Trying to get some data spec sheets on the turbo unit on line and I've stumbled on this https://www.mhi.com/products/automob...technical.html
Seems to be conflicting information on the TD04 application on engine size displacement. They listed as 1.5L? Is it undersized?
This website has more technical information but I'd need to know the exact TD04 Turbo unit being used in order to figure out if there's any more room for additional boost. https://speedtrappconsulting.com/ima...re%20chart.pdf
As always great post Bear. In directly response to Legends post of shayne turbo TL-S, it's nothing new as far as the setup goes. It's been done and the 1st to do so with the 3rd gen TL was Rodney Brown back in 2009. Shaynes setup is done with the up most quality of parts use and fabrication. In regards to the TLX-S, the TD04 turbo has been used in a wide range of applications. It's a Mitsubishi unit. I'd assume that there's probably an upgraded version of this turbo but doubt there's one for a direct swap for the TLX-S. Trying to get some data spec sheets on the turbo unit on line and I've stumbled on this https://www.mhi.com/products/automob...technical.html
Seems to be conflicting information on the TD04 application on engine size displacement. They listed as 1.5L? Is it undersized?
This website has more technical information but I'd need to know the exact TD04 Turbo unit being used in order to figure out if there's any more room for additional boost. https://speedtrappconsulting.com/ima...re%20chart.pdf
Maybe you could shed some light Bear?
No did not research it, the PSI was something I think I remember from one of the Acura blurbs but don't have a clue which one. The thing that bothers me well not bothers exactly but comments like "oh we will just throw a tune or a bigger turbo" (bigger will require a tune) have no real idea of the cost or the work involved at $80 an hour if you can't do it yourself. By the time anyone here gets done equaling the top cars in the class I guaranty they will have more money invested than if the had bought fast to start off with.
Been playing with these things for a long time, first brand new car was a Chevy 409/425 & always bought the quickest car of any one I was going to buy. Maybe never touch it or maybe mod it. If I moded it the base was already a performer.
I saw some of the interior picture of the Type S....did I see it right, is the steering wheel adjustment still manual?? If yes, are they freaking serious??
Just want add about just throwing on a tune etc. Expect Legend 2TL to fact check me but think I remember. My 335is that was eventually moded to 410WHP, started out with 320LBFT stock @ 10PSI. It had a factory over boost for a short term 7-10 seconds in specific gears at specific RPM's, over boost was 15psi for 370LBFT. My max boost was 18.5PSI after mods, car ran 12.1 @ 117mph. Stock was 13.1-13.2 @ 110mph.
Why this, because I believe I read the TLX-S is currently running a max boost @ 15.1PSI MAX. Mid level mods, the 335is was running 15PSI max in every gear for the whole quarter mile I ran 12.5 @ 114MPH (still listed on Drag Times)
Dynos @ that level ran in the 360-370WHP range. Can't be exact as I was beta testing multiple versions of the 335is specific JB4 tune. My old farts brain can't exactly remember & for this exercise its not important enough to look up.
Be interesting to see how much over boost headroom Honda left in the current engine. Also with a new not yet tested by the public engine you want to be very very careful that you are not buying a new one out of pocket. If you can't afford to buy one don't be dumb. New engine = no wrecking yard supply yet.
Bear would I fact check you?
My only comment is it's kinda pointless to compare boost pressure between different ICE's, since the shape/volume/diameter of the plenums are not the same so the pressure is not a comparable metric.
I.E. a Honda CR-V's L15BE produces 190HP with 18.5psi, while the J30AC produces 355HP with 15psi, so boost is mostly irrelevant comparing various motors. What's really important is the mass of air entering the engine which is measured by a MAF or calculated using a MAP, intake air temperature, and RPM.
I saw some of the interior picture of the Type S....did I see it right, is the steering wheel adjustment still manual?? If yes, are they freaking serious??
correct me if I’m wrong but most cars in the segment are manually adjusted steering. I know for a fact it was manually adjusted in the s5 I test drive.
I saw some of the interior picture of the Type S....did I see it right, is the steering wheel adjustment still manual?? If yes, are they freaking serious??
Originally Posted by djhtsx
correct me if I’m wrong but most cars in the segment are manually adjusted steering. I know for a fact it was manually adjusted in the s5 I test drive.
German luxury has electronic steering adjustment (not sure about Lexus, Infiniti, or Genesis). This makes it super easy for individual driver settings to take effect (rearview mirror is always a manual adjustment with a driver change).
Those of us with the 2.0 TLX are not the least surprised as not even the Advance trim has it. Corners are cut to keep the value proposition.
When I hear people say "reliability is important" and "it's why I bought an Acura" I cringe inside and it comes from people are aren't keeping up with the brand. It's been well know that Acura's reliability has tanked the last 8 years. As someone who actually worked for Acura, I can tell you they were less than stellar in the reliability department. Looking at the TLX-S just the engine design / layout, I can firmly assure you within due time it will show it's ugly in reliability. It's a complex design and still requires additional maintenance as in replacing a timing belt. Long term ownership, the TLX-S will cost you more vs the base trim. You also mentioned a tune, but are concern about reliability, well sorry to burst your bubble, but leave it stock, no offense. You got to pay to play as I say. Germans have maintenance included for 3 years, so 3 years of ownership your real cost is insurance and gasoline (possibly tires if you smoked through them). The Koreans are also very reliable and cost of maintenance isn't anything expensive. Again, with all these vehicle have performance bits like suspension, brakes, tires ect, they all generally cost more to maintain. If you're truly an enthusiast or a loyal Acura buyer, this shouldn't be a shocker to you about their reliability tanking over the last years.
So are you saying that all Acuras over the past 8 years have tanked in reliability? This sounds like an inaccurate sweeping generalization. You have no clue which Acuras I’ve owned or how long they have lasted. SMH. Think before you type next time.
So are you saying that all Acuras over the past 8 years have tanked in reliability? This sounds like an inaccurate sweeping generalization. You have no clue which Acuras I’ve owned or how long they have lasted. SMH. Think before you type next time.
Pardon my ignorance, but I worked for Acura and i'm very well active here as well as other groups. I don't know why you feel the need to say "think before you type". I didn't call you out on what you owned or your knowledge in the automotive industry. I highly doubt you would actually know what I've experienced. Take some time and start doing some research before you make such ignorant statements.
I think it's fair to say that much of the vaunted Japanese car maker reliability rests with the Toyota/Lexus pairing and not such much the disjointed Honda/Acura pairing. Many brands follow a trickle down philosophy from premium/luxury brand to mass market brand but apparently Honda/Acura does not. Makes no sense to me.
I think it's fair to say that much of the vaunted Japanese car maker reliability rests with the Toyota/Lexus pairing and not such much the disjointed Honda/Acura pairing. Many brands follow a trickle down philosophy from premium/luxury brand to mass market brand but apparently Honda/Acura does not. Makes no sense to me.
You are correct. Lexus and Toyota hold that crown for Japanese. Not surprising Porsche has been holding it down for the Germans.
Pardon my ignorance, but I worked for Acura and i'm very well active here as well as other groups. I don't know why you feel the need to say "think before you type". I didn't call you out on what you owned or your knowledge in the automotive industry. I highly doubt you would actually know what I've experienced. Take some time and start doing some research before you make such ignorant statements.
Well read exactly what I wrote and think about it. You have no idea what my experience with the brand has been, including which years/models I’ve owned and how long they’ve lasted. That’s why I said to think before you type. You made a sweeping generalization about 8 years worth of vehicles from the company without a clue about what I’ve owned. That’s what’s truly ignorant here.
correct me if I’m wrong but most cars in the segment are manually adjusted steering. I know for a fact it was manually adjusted in the s5 I test drive.
I do not believe that is correct.
Infiniti had steering wheel power adjustment available already in the G37 (if not the G35 even earlier)
All the Germans have it available (you may have to pay for it but it's there)
The Genesis G70 has it, the Lexus IS and even the Lexus ES.
The Dodge Charger had available electric steering wheel adjustment since 2010 if not earlier.
Sorry but nowadays its absence in the TLX Type S is inexcusable.
Well read exactly what I wrote and think about it. You have no idea what my experience with the brand has been, including which years/models I’ve owned and how long they’ve lasted. That’s why I said to think before you type. You made a sweeping generalization about 8 years worth of vehicles from the company without a clue about what I’ve owned. That’s what’s truly ignorant here.
Your experience doesn't speak for everybody else. You can easily go look up reliability reports and see that Acura/Honda has a host of issues. Transmission problems being the most common. I've had a ton of issues with my TL and MDX all transmission related including one being replaced.
Infiniti had steering wheel power adjustment available already in the G37 (if not the G35 even earlier)
All the Germans have it available (you may have to pay for it but it's there)
The Genesis G70 has it, the Lexus IS and even the Lexus ES.
The Dodge Charger had available electric steering wheel adjustment since 2010 if not earlier.
Sorry but nowadays its absence in the TLX Type S is inexcusable.
bmw nor Audi has electrically adjusting steering wheel in this class. It’s one of those options I could live without. What’s inexcusable is acura excluding 360 cam for the USA market when every car in this class has the option. Especially since it’s there biggest sedan they offer.
Well read exactly what I wrote and think about it. You have no idea what my experience with the brand has been, including which years/models I’ve owned and how long they’ve lasted. That’s why I said to think before you type. You made a sweeping generalization about 8 years worth of vehicles from the company without a clue about what I’ve owned. That’s what’s truly ignorant here.
I honestly don't care how many Acura's or Honda's you've owned, as that doesn't change the history of this brand. I can assure you that you don't hold an ASE master certified degree or worked for Acura as a Master Technician. I speak from 12+ years of experience and being an active car enthusiasts. I do not say things that aren't true, nor will I defend any brand because of personal preference. You are a VET, as I am not, but did recently rescue a kitten and have some questions. I would love to ask you questions about that since that's what you specialize in.
Infiniti had steering wheel power adjustment available already in the G37 (if not the G35 even earlier)
All the Germans have it available (you may have to pay for it but it's there)
The Genesis G70 has it, the Lexus IS and even the Lexus ES.
The Dodge Charger had available electric steering wheel adjustment since 2010 if not earlier.
Sorry but nowadays its absence in the TLX Type S is inexcusable.
I also want to add that the Stinger GT2 I rented from Turo last week also had power adjustable steering column.
Your experience doesn't speak for everybody else. You can easily go look up reliability reports and see that Acura/Honda has a host of issues. Transmission problems being the most common. I've had a ton of issues with my TL and MDX all transmission related including one being replaced.
And neither does your experience speak for everybody else.
Originally Posted by petdocmb
Ah thank you for your insight. Another expert from the internet stumbles into the conversation like the town drunk to give his $0.02. If you can’t follow along with the conversation, then please don’t comment. I’m not speaking for anyone else with my posts. Only myself.
Originally Posted by Kense
Nice insult . As if only your opinion and experience matters. GTFOH then you sensitive weirdo
You replied to him on #144, he didn't reply to you so wouldn't that make you the weirdo?
Originally Posted by Kense
You’re an idiot. Plain and simple. Plenty of consumer data showing Acura reliability has slipped . Including right from an employee who worked for Acura over a decade. Then again you’re another Vtec yo fanboy Jnco Jean wearing bum that randomly throws insults out when called out.
Worked for a Acura dealer, big difference.
One of my wife's colleagues husbands has been a BMW certified tech since 1978, doesn't mean he's the absolute gospel in BMW quality but he knows a thing or two that we discuss whenever we meet.
As for Acura slipping I still at AoA recent quality video which brings light to CR data, it is something but it's not the end all as he shows in his video.
Infiniti had steering wheel power adjustment available already in the G37 (if not the G35 even earlier)
All the Germans have it available (you may have to pay for it but it's there)
The Genesis G70 has it, the Lexus IS and even the Lexus ES.
The Dodge Charger had available electric steering wheel adjustment since 2010 if not earlier.
Sorry but nowadays its absence in the TLX Type S is inexcusable.
My S5 doesn't has power steering wheel adjustment. I also don't recall it being an option either. I have adjusted it just once since I have had it. I would rather have the massaging seats instead since I use that a few times a week and I didn't even know it had them when I bought the car. Also I don't let anyone else drive the car so adjusting the wheel isn't an issue but doing it manually really didn't take but a few seconds the one time I did it. Never had a car that had electric steering adjustment so maybe that's also why I don't miss it.
I would rather have the massaging seats instead since I use that a few times a week and I didn't even know it had them when I bought the car.
Hey my 1G TLX had massaging seats that I didn't even know about when I bought the car too! Just had to drive between 70 and 80mph to activate them.
There has been a little chummy buddy action going on here as well as a few personal arguments. Let's keep this thing on subject - about the Type S sucking. I'll keep it going.
C/D TEST RESULTS - 2008 TL TYPE S ................C/D TEST RESULTS - 2021 TLX Type S 60 mph: 5.5 sec ................................................ .. 60 mph: 4.9 sec 1/4 mile: 14.1 sec @ 101 mph ............................... 1/4-Mile: 13.6 sec @ 103 mph PRICE AS TESTED ............................................... PRICE AS TESTED $50,122 inflation adjusted (base price: $38,940) ..... $54,625 (base price: $53,325)
What a shitbox! It took Acura 13 YEARS to gain a half a second to 60 and half a second in the 1/4 mile. Less money (adjusted for inflation) basically bought you a more impressive performance sedan back in 2008.
Acura be like YEAH... BEAT THAT by a half second. Or was it TALK LESS about that half second, DRIVE MORE!
TD04, exactly which model I haven't seen it mentioned. So that is where my underboost comment comes from, because it the turbo characterristics is similar to CTR, then closer to 20psi should be reasonable.
bmw nor Audi has electrically adjusting steering wheel in this class. It’s one of those options I could live without. What’s inexcusable is acura excluding 360 cam for the USA market when every car in this class has the option. Especially since it’s there biggest sedan they offer.
Agree, for this point in the market there should be a 360 camera for one of the top trims. I only used a 360 camera for the first time recently in a friend's Tesla X, and it was very impressive to use in a parking lot.
bmw nor Audi has electrically adjusting steering wheel in this class. It’s one of those options I could live without. What’s inexcusable is acura excluding 360 cam for the USA market when every car in this class has the option. Especially since it’s there biggest sedan they offer.
Actually thank you for your info....I assumed that you could options the M340i and the S5 up (as log and you were willing to pay) with these convenience features but I guess I was wrong...I did check both cars user manuals and there is no mentioning of power adjusting for the steering wheel...frankly coupled with the lack of cooled seats for the M340i, it does lower the BMW standing in my opinion down a notch or two...I would not buy a luxury sport sedan without these features, inexcusable indeed.
I guess in this case Acura is aligned to the two Germans and behind Lexus, Genesis and, believe or not, the Americans. By the way, I did check and the MB C Class does indeed offer steering wheel power adjustment.
And neither does your experience speak for everybody else.
You replied to him on #144, he didn't reply to you so wouldn't that make you the weirdo?
Worked for a Acura dealer, big difference.
One of my wife's colleagues husbands has been a BMW certified tech since 1978, doesn't mean he's the absolute gospel in BMW quality but he knows a thing or two that we discuss whenever we meet.
As for Acura slipping I still at AoA recent quality video which brings light to CR data, it is something but it's not the end all as he shows in his video.
Some of us have worked for the brand that you seem to preach highly of. It seems you haven't opened your wallet to support the brand in a long time besides not being able to buy OEM parts which are quality parts, so why is that? All these years on Acurazine and you seem to have a personal issue with those that have proven their worth and have helped many others here. I question why you feel the need to get easily offended with my posts or anyone else's post or the need to "Be right"? You're an adult (which I may question) with a family, no idea what your issue is at times but I think it's best to act like the parent you are. There's a reason why you're on my ignore list. No need to speak for me, I can do so myself. There's a lot more I could say, but I'm not going to be petty with you again. There's plenty of members here who know the difference between you and I and the qualities or our worth. So as always, wish you the best Legend.
Last edited by 04WDPSeDaN; 07-26-2021 at 07:34 PM.
I will add that the cool seats are a very nice feature I didn’t know I needed. I thought 20+ years of sweaty nuts were just a normal thing while driving on a 100° day. I’ll give up surround view for cooled seats. Slightly concerned there’s going to be a lot of sand ending up in the perforated seats after I arrive in Florida Thursday.
Wow, you are triggered. Whew! Hey I get it. I lit you up pretty bad with that town drunk line. It was hilarious. Calm down though Beyoncé. I’ve had a bunch of Acura/Honda products over the past 3 decades. They have all been bulletproof with their reliability. Including several examples over the past decade, one of which has 200k on the odometer. Are there bad ones out there? I’m sure there are. I haven’t had any though. I’ve see plenty of junk from other manufacturers though. Not too many 10+ year old German or Korean cars out there compared to Acura’s. I’ll stick with Acura.
You're speaking for yourself which you have stated. Not everyone is guaranteed to suffer a failure, but it still doesn't mean that others don't or that statistics lie. You logged back after a while to prove exactly what? Thus far the only thing i've seen is an individual who couldn't conduct a normal conversation. What was ultimately achieved? Other than I had to reply to someone I could careless to ever speak to?
I will add that the cool seats are a very nice feature I didn’t know I needed. I thought 20+ years of sweaty nuts were just a normal thing while driving on a 100° day. I’ll give up surround view for cooled seats. Slightly concerned there’s going to be a lot of sand ending up in the perforated seats after I arrive in Florida Thursday.
They are on my must-have list for any future car, especially if it's a daily driver.
Seems like a waste of time to debate with those two, yes you as well Legend.
Some of us have worked for the brand that you seem to preach highly of. It seems you haven't opened your wallet to support the brand in a long time besides not being able to buy OEM parts which are quality parts, so why is that? All these years on Acurazine and you seem to have a personal issue with those that have proven their worth and have helped many others here. I question why you feel the need to get easily offended with my posts or anyone else's post or the need to "Be right"? You're an adult (which I may question) with a family, no idea what your issue is at times but I think it's best to act like the parent you are. There's a reason why you're on my ignore list. No need to speak for me, I can do so myself. There's a lot more I could say, but I'm not going to be petty with you again. There's plenty of members here who know the difference between you and I and the qualities or our worth. So as always, wish you the best Legend.
you worked for a franchised dealership
Meh, as for your rambling I just ignored again, your not worth the time with your babbling
My only comment is it's kinda pointless to compare boost pressure between different ICE's, since the shape/volume/diameter of the plenums are not the same so the pressure is not a comparable metric.
I.E. a Honda CR-V's L15BE produces 190HP with 18.5psi, while the J30AC produces 355HP with 15psi, so boost is mostly irrelevant comparing various motors. What's really important is the mass of air entering the engine which is measured by a MAF or calculated using a MAP, intake air temperature, and RPM.
Its not a matter of horsepower its a matter of pressure on components. At 15PSI my charge pipe was go to go. At 18.5/19 it shattered at the throttle body connection and had to be replaced with an alloy piece. Lost two before I was able to get an alloy replacement. Very common with high boost BMW's thats why the alloy units are available in the aftermarket. When you start putting pressure outside I the structural design specs things break. Clamps give way all kinds of interesting stuff can pop up and break.
Having actually experienced my share of unintended consequences over the years I chuckle at the spec guys who never turned a wrench saying 'it would only take this or that" for a killer Type S that everybody says they don't want.
A few years in one of these you can learn a lot & realize how much you don't know. Should have added had/have alloy charge pipes the 335IS & 135IS both running/ran JB4 units
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 07-26-2021 at 07:55 PM.
Then why do you? you worked for a franchised dealership
Meh, as for your rambling I just ignored again, your not worth the time with your babbling
Yeah I did work for Acura, til they wanted me to do something illegal and I walked out. Doesn't mean my credentials are any less good or my experience is now obsolete. Now I run an honest construction business and make a very good living which has paid for everything I own. Can't speak for everyone pal, we all make our choices good or bad so Ditto... Keep me on the ignore list and stop wasting each others time.
Its not a matter of horsepower its a matter of pressure on components. At 15PSI my charge pipe was go to go. At 18.5/19 it shattered at the throttle body connection and had to be replaced with an alloy piece. Very common with high boost BMW's thats why the alloy units are available. When you start putting pressure outside I the structural design specs thing break. Clamps give way all kinds of interesting stuff can pop up and break.
Bear, I'm going to shoot you a PM on a downpipe I just purchased for my BMW
07-26-2021, 09:38 AM
Thank you for the information
