someguy11

^-- Good luck One4AL. So you have the expressway vibration, replacement transmission and paint issues? My TLX was a similarly awful car and I feel your pain. I felt it in my best financial interest to simply trade in, take the hefty loss and move on from Acura. In America, Honda is probably ready to release a fox hunt worth of attorney hounds to defend their case. I would be afraid of ending up with a judge like Tardym who couldn't care less about vibrations and wonky shifting.

One4AL

I do have to unpleasingly experience all of that, among other things.

I understand your choice of 'trading' ; it's a decision many others ex-TLX owners decided to make. I don't dispute your choice. BTW, what did you trade it in for?

That said, I've analyse Tardym's Court case (in my spare time), and despite the fact I have great respect for both Judges and our legal system, I do believe there might have been an error made by the Judge by admitting (at least one) Honda proof(s). I'm not saying there is one, just that it appears one may have been committed. I have respectively discussed with my Lawyer (he recommanded me to expose my findings to Tardym) and Tardym. Noone besides me may tell you this, but Small claims is known to be not as exhaustive as standard and supreme court, and may sometime cut corners. That said, I understand going in Court is a painfull process, especially when you are on your own (without a lawyer), and loosing may leave scars on the person who does loose. So rarely people are willing reopen this painfull process, and going through it for a second time, especialy for small claim amounts (which maximum is $15K). I respect that choice, and for the same reasons everyone who has not chosen to go in Court should pay great respect for those who did try their chance at least once.

Accordingly, I've chosen to run against Honda despite the fact that, yes, it is a well greased and smoothly running large machine (Honda Corp, not their TLXs). I do believe I have my chances, and am well prepared for the Court.

TTYTLX

This is reply: Your description is excellent - precise and accurate. I believe if any US or Japan based management representative experienced this shuddering they would never say it expected behavior!! I put on new tires, wheels and Dealer serviced alignment. I am coming from a 2009 RL so I know what a premium quality Acura feels like. I had seen feedback indicating this is not a transmission issue. In an effort to maximize economy (seeing 35-38 mpg with free flow traffic) I am in econ mode most of the time. As I have a 80 mile round trip commute I started experimenting with the IDIS modes. I found starting in Normal/Sport then switching to ECON, once reached speed matched traffic flow, notably suppressed the shudders but not completely. I will keep experimenting. I like using the paddle-down gear for engine-breaking. The RL would not let the gearing overly stress the engine. When I first tried this in the TLX on a long downhill (about 2 miles - I could traffic slowing about 189-200 yards ahead speed about 43-45 mph, I down-paddled, rpm went from about 1700 to almost 7000!! With significant shudder throughout the whole car. That just wouldn't have happened in the RL.

Mak P

I had issues and decided to wait to notify my dealership about it when I got a oil change. I have a 2019 AWD Advance and only the driver seat rattled. The dealer told me I had 4 unbalanced wells and a bent rim from these raggedy ass streets. I haven't had any rattle or vibration since. I went up to 90 to test it and it didn't start at 70mph like it was before

Beyond Euphoria

Hi everyone! I want to share my history of highspeed vibrations.
TLX 3.5 SH-AWD user here. I've bought a car in 2017 with around 80k kilometers on odometer.
I felt a vibration through the floor and seat starting around 120 km/h up to 140 km/h with a maximum amplitude around 130 km/h. Made a couple of road force balance procedures - tests showed perfect balancing, but vibration was still there.
Changed winter used tyres on a new summer tyres (Potenza RE003) and had a same issue. Road force balancing - ok, but vibration there. I've read a lot about this problem, but I've decided to fix this problem at any cost. So, I've bought a new set of wheels (R19, used Rays R19 from Japan) and new tyres Altenzo Sports Comforter 245/40 R19. First test drive, and boom - vibration still there in a same range of speed!
After that, I found an expereinced technician on a road-force balancing station and we began make a tests. Just took out a tyres from the rims and placed rims on a balancing machine. Result - 3 of 4 rims were not perfectly round! You can see a very small "bumping" of the rim's edge on a balancing machine. After that, rims were repaired to the perfect round shape, rebalanced and MAGIC - now I have no any vibrations on a highspeed. Now I want to check my winter rims (OEM 18R) and I'm sure that they are NOT perfectly rounded too. I think TLX chassis is very sensible to the little difference from a perfect-rounded shape of rims with a low-profile tyres. Hope this post with help you to won an annoying vibrations!
TL/DR - check your rims without tyres on a balancing machine, repare them and enjoy your TLX even if the wheel set have a "perfect" road-force balancing.

One4AL

I'm very glad for you that your wheels are now better and your vibration appears to be gone. If your post can help others, that's great, and I'm glad you shared it with the community. That said, the vibration I (and many others) feel is not related to tires, because it comes and goes at the same speed when tires are rotating at the constant speed. Many feel this vibration at high speed (around 120km/h or 75 MPH), but I fell them at any constant speed from 40 km/h to 120+ km/h. I was told by an expert that very rarely wheels and tires are perfectly round, and Road Force balancing machine (such as the one built by Hunter and available in Acura dealership or very specialized tire shops) can help better positioning two unperfect components (wheel and tire) to make them (together) the rounder possible. That said, even if overall slightly unperfect, wheel and tire imperfectness is usually not felt it inside the car. I spent $$$$ on specialized vibration tests and it comes out as being a Vertical E1,5 (Engine, 1,5) order vibration which is commonly known for 3 cylinders engine. In a V6 TLX, it relates to the VCM being activated on 3 cylinders (ratter than all six). FYI, my 2015 V6 AWD TLX also has transmission issues (despite it's the second transmission in this TLX), paint issues [peeling off all the way down to the primer coat, on various body parts but certainly not just around the rear window (TSB 19-033 for B-588P color code)] and engine stall issues (engine shuts off, and transmission shift to N).

rubbertramp

I bought a 2020 TLX brand new 4 months back. Now I feel the vibration at 115KMPH when cruising. Exactly what you said except for one difference. It also occurs in Sport+ mode which tells me it is not related to VCM? Now I am stuck with a brand new car stressed. Not sure what to do. I wish I read these forums earlier.
I am going to the dealer again this week to see if they accept the issue. Last time I went for a drive with the technician and he gradually the speed on the highway from 60 to 120 and there were no vibrations. But they were kind enough to do balancing nevertheless and the road balance. But it made no difference.
Now the thought of getting rid of this car and searching for another one is a pain !

TSXV6Guy

Here are a few notes / tips to help with your troubleshooting:
It could be the tires flatspotting due to the car sitting for a while (this depends on tire brand and type).
Check if the vibration is present after the tires have warmed up (drive about 10 kms then check the vibration).
Also, if vibration is present, it may be alleviated by additional weight of the 2nd passenger (hence, you and the tech, no vibration).

One4AL

If I knew back then (in 2014) what I'm in for now (since 2014), I would have resold asap my TLX on the very same day I got it and found out it had issues.
FYI, so far I invested (it makes me feel better to say "invested", instead of "spent") over $9K CAD and $12K CAD in respectively legal expertise and lawyer and I'm not over yet. If I win in Court, I might recover part or all what I paid for the expertises, but I'll never recover what I pay for my lawyer. COVID-19 has, si far, added one year of delay to my Court process. I also had to buy another car because the TLX is unsafe to drive (because, besides vibrations, its engine randomly stalls causing its transmission to shift to "N" by itself; I can't restart immediatly and get stuck on the middle of trafic) and remains parked in my driveway.

One thing is certain, your car is not going to get any younger as the days go by, and maybe more issues will be found. Long story short, its value will not remain high. I hope this helps you make your own decision. On a personnal note, I wish someone had provided me the same personnal feedback many years ago.

rubbertramp

Thanks for taking the time. My car has 6k in the ODO and its 5 months old. Wondering if I will incur losses If I sell now or sell after 1 year ? Wondering If i can ask the dealership to convert the finance loan into a lease option

One4AL

I don't think they'll ever change anything to any contract. This would be sort of an admission there is something wrong. If I was your potential buyer, today, I would propably compare your car with a demo from the dealer (which most likely has 10K kms (6K Miles)). If your Price is similar but you offer me a couple G$ in rebate, i would consider to buy from you. But in one year from now, I would compare with a demo car that also has 10K kms (6K Miles) but one year younger (warranty) and less mileage ( I assume your mileage may double or triple by then). Unless you'll offer a very significative price reduction compare to the new models, in one year from now, personnally, I would choose to go for the demo car.

The longer you will wait, the more devaluation you'll end up paying from your own pocket. Especially after the first year where devaluation is the fastest.

FYI, I really understand the frustration and pain of the singular idea that you'll have to go through the buying process of another car once again ( and doing it with the back thought that TLX was your first choice and you'll be stock choosing between the other renaining choices). This is exactly where I stood in early 2015, and today I regret I could not foresee how bad this could get. I'm stuck on this situation because all along I was hoping they (Acura dealer and Honda) would fix my TLX. I was wrong. When they figured after 3,5 years (or waited until then to advise) they could not fix it, they told me " The car is behaving as per desing. There is nothing to be fixed " .

rubbertramp

I was hoping to live with the vibration considering the amount of losses I will incur. It comes only @115 kmph and above. However engine stalling is a whole new level. When did start noticing the issue. Right away after buying ?

One4AL

For my TLX, it started around 18 months after purchase.

csmeance

Look up lehto's law on youtube. I would advise against selling the car as the next owner can come after you just like you are going after honda for selling a defective car. Have you tried to lemon law?

One4AL

@csmeance I am not familiar with lehto's law nor did I look for it yet, but this is certainly a valid concern. I am also not much more familiar with the full details of the lemon law (not applicable in my province, Canada). If it's cheap or free of charge, everyone should try it.

That being said, FYI, no later than last year, I was told by an Acura Used Cars and Body Shop Director I could trade in my TLX to avoid being sued by the next owner for its issues. This is apparently a way to get out of trouble. Of course, your Trade in value is lesser than what you owe on the car. I responded to him they are not offering anything near the TLX full value and, because they are not recognizing its issues, the next owner would be stuck with the same situation but may not have as much $$$$$, energy, time and well documented case as I have to try make things right.

rubbertramp

I am not aware of this law. Good to know. But I would only opt to trade it in. The dealer who knows the issue will obviously use that reason to buy it for less and I am paying for that loss. Its up to the dealer to deal with the person who buys it next. But I dont know if i will do that now. I probably will keep the car. I bought it for 0% interest for 5 years. After 5 years, anything that comes on it wont feel like a loss to me.