Stall when coming out of Auto Idle Stop
10-05-2018, 10:54 AM
#41
I purchased my TLX October, 2015. In August 2016 the auto stop began to occasionally fail to restart and other times is barely started and I began disabling auto-stop every time I used the car -- until my wife started driving it in mid-2017, forgot to push the button and it left her stranded for awhile at a stop light until she called me and I walked her through the restart procedure (she won't drive that car now). In August the dealer tested battery as bad and replaced during a visit where the transmission and numerous other systems were replaced (5 pages of parts in the service write-up, 22 days in the shop). One year later in August 2018 the auto-stop began acting up again. The Infotainment stack would often flicker during successful and failed restarts. The dealer said battery tested as good so they drove the car around for two days without duplicating the issue. I then suggested they engage the rear defroster and max out the seat coolers to increase current draw. Still no go. Finally they discovered that the voltage sometimes dropped to 6 volts for 1/2 second during restarts. Maybe they have some mobile diagnostic system?
Net result was a new battery (and a $1700 warranty bill to Acura, last year's bill was something like $7000). What am I to think other than this car destroys $290 batteries yearly. BTW a buddy's 2015 BMW 3-series also has auto-stop but it can be permanently disabled and also still has it's original battery (and transmission!). I guess I bought the wrong brand of automobile... My warranty expires very soon.
I miss my 1999 TL, the best car I've ever owned. The 2015 TLX is tied as the worst.
Net result was a new battery (and a $1700 warranty bill to Acura, last year's bill was something like $7000). What am I to think other than this car destroys $290 batteries yearly. BTW a buddy's 2015 BMW 3-series also has auto-stop but it can be permanently disabled and also still has it's original battery (and transmission!). I guess I bought the wrong brand of automobile... My warranty expires very soon.
I miss my 1999 TL, the best car I've ever owned. The 2015 TLX is tied as the worst.
10-08-2018, 12:45 PM
#42
I having the same problem on my 2015 TLX SH-AWD. I took it to the dealership and was told that there was a problem with the cable. They said the battery was fine. They replaced the cable but unfortunately, it did not fix the issue. So is this then a battery issue? Should I just go to AutoZone and get a new battery?
10-08-2018, 04:06 PM
#44
10-09-2018, 10:21 AM
#45
Instructor
10-29-2018, 11:48 PM
#46
My ‘15 TLX never stalled, but at 2 1/2 years old, the battery was replaced under warranty after the car wouldn’t start and had to be towed to the Honda dealership ( no ACURA dealership in Montana). The previous few months I had to push the Start button multiple times before it would start. I had to call Acura’s Roadside service to have it jumped at work, and it took a long time before the guy finally got it to start. Had O’Reilly check the battery, it needed to be charged, which I then did. It was ok for a few days, but then totally died. The gal at Honda said that the alternator doesn’t charge the battery, it just maintains it. So,I was killing the battery all the time when I would listen to the radio or use the Bluetooth to talk on the phone during my lunch hour without having the engine running. Since I got the new battery, I will charge it every 5or 6 months to keep it charged up and hopefully avoid this problem again.
I also turn off the Auto-Stop and turn on the Brake Hold every time I drive. I wish there was a way to have those 2 defaults switched!
I also turn off the Auto-Stop and turn on the Brake Hold every time I drive. I wish there was a way to have those 2 defaults switched!
01-25-2019, 12:08 PM
#47
Some Guy Who Loves Cars
This thread is very helpful. Thank you all. 2015 V6 SH-AWD Advance. I had my first stall a couple weeks ago after a 20 min drive on the expressway. Auto stopped then failed to restart on the offramp. Dashboard lit up. I went through the @nascar9900 restart process described perfectly in post #18. I took it to dealer, who said it checked out using the Acura AGM process @EE4Life posted in #37. I thought it may have been TSB 15-034 where the tranny shifts itself to N, but dealer said no codes were thrown. They did the relearn and sent me off. About a week later, the stall happened again, but the car restarted itself. It wasn't a typical auto stop/restart - the whole car shut down. Headlights, dashboard, radio all went off. Then after two seconds the car restarted - still in gear with brakes applied - and everything came back online with the NAV screen displaying the startup "disclaimer" message. Over that entire two weeks, weird stuff was happening like ACC dropping out, LKAS not working, MID saying "Engine Shutoff Unavailable." When it did shut off, it would only do so for like 10 seconds before saying "Engine Will Restart Soon." All consistent with low voltage.
I took it to AutoZone. Battery checked out at 12.3V, but they said it had 60% charge, which was after a 40 min drive on the highway. We brought out a multimeter. Confirmed battery at 12.3VDC. Started it and alternator was running at 14.5VDC. All good. They said it could be voltage regulator, solenoid or relay, totally trying to not sell me a battery. I insisted I buy one while I was there. Wanted an Optima Yellowtop AGM. H6 is available for the Acura TLX V6f for $289, but no one stocks it. Got a Duralast AGM instead. $210. Both made by Johnson Controls. So far, new battery makes engine start and restart much more strongly and no more issues with my electronics. OEM AGM battery we pulled also had Johnson Controls sticker on it. So that's interesting. I mean, the OEM one did last 4 years, which is not bad. I figured I'd replace than get the runaround.
My guess is the behavior described by everyone in this thread are symptoms of an AGM battery on its last legs. I hope time proves me right. Maybe name brand AGM are better than the OEM AGM battery. They are all pricey and they do tend to have some issues, so buy a battery with a long warranty (many are 3 years) and save your receipts. If you get a bad one, you'll probably know within the first month due to low voltage or lack of starting Amps. Battery people say AGM is required for vehicles that are heavy on the electronics, high parasitic load or have auto start/stop. They are better for deeper discharges and more stressful use. In the good old days, you could just turn the key and hammer the battery until the starter caught. With push button and the starter controlled electronically, not so much.
I took it to AutoZone. Battery checked out at 12.3V, but they said it had 60% charge, which was after a 40 min drive on the highway. We brought out a multimeter. Confirmed battery at 12.3VDC. Started it and alternator was running at 14.5VDC. All good. They said it could be voltage regulator, solenoid or relay, totally trying to not sell me a battery. I insisted I buy one while I was there. Wanted an Optima Yellowtop AGM. H6 is available for the Acura TLX V6f for $289, but no one stocks it. Got a Duralast AGM instead. $210. Both made by Johnson Controls. So far, new battery makes engine start and restart much more strongly and no more issues with my electronics. OEM AGM battery we pulled also had Johnson Controls sticker on it. So that's interesting. I mean, the OEM one did last 4 years, which is not bad. I figured I'd replace than get the runaround.
My guess is the behavior described by everyone in this thread are symptoms of an AGM battery on its last legs. I hope time proves me right. Maybe name brand AGM are better than the OEM AGM battery. They are all pricey and they do tend to have some issues, so buy a battery with a long warranty (many are 3 years) and save your receipts. If you get a bad one, you'll probably know within the first month due to low voltage or lack of starting Amps. Battery people say AGM is required for vehicles that are heavy on the electronics, high parasitic load or have auto start/stop. They are better for deeper discharges and more stressful use. In the good old days, you could just turn the key and hammer the battery until the starter caught. With push button and the starter controlled electronically, not so much.
Last edited by someguy11; 01-25-2019 at 12:22 PM.
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9SpeedTran (01-31-2019)
04-24-2019, 10:16 AM
#48
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5 time failure by the dealer to fix this problem
Our 2015 TLX was bought as certified pre-owned. We have had it at the dealer 5 times in 2 years. It is on its 3rd battery and now 2nd starter. The recent fuel pump recall was supposed to fix the problem. It didn't. The thing just stalled again last night. Our dealer claims that Acura helpline told them they had never seen the problem before (but then why the recall to fix the non-existent problem?). Something is clearly amiss with these vehicles.
04-24-2019, 07:32 PM
#49
Some Guy Who Loves Cars
I haven’t had any battery, starting or electrical issues since replacing my AGM a couple months ago. I wish I could help you find whatever phantom draw you have that’s draining your battery. But your comment there is the understatement of the entire fifth gen TLX. I hope for more problems, but they happen so often that I’m used to some new issue every month and I fear for losing my warranty soon.
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9SpeedTran (04-29-2019)