Bchester6

You need the wiring schematic if your going to do it... That shop should really be doing this.

know610

When to the shop and still no good. They put a filter and I still hear the "hiss". They lower amp setting then the hiss more to the rear speakers. So they lower the rear and now i feel like rear is kicking.

I asked how they wired. they said factory stereo to fix82 to amp.

Bchester6

Have you disconnected all speakers that are run by the OEM amp?

know610

I went to the shop and seem like they don't do anything. They just plug a filter and it's done. So I sat in the car mute the volume and still hear the hiss. The hiss is their just the music is louder than the hiss, Came back to them and they lower the amp vol both rear and front. But they lower the rear that it seem like I can only hear the front speaker more. However, hiss still their. I asked how they run the wire, Owner said, Factory stereo to Fix82 then to Phoenix Amp. Based on what he said, it's like the picture I drew. I didn't get into details because he's running around, shop was bz.

Bchester6

I still don't believe that. I suspect the hiss is coming from bad capacitors in the factory amp which means they used the post amp wires. Get a wiring schematic and check it for yourself as pre-amp colored wires aren't often times the same color going out to the speakers.

know610

Thanks,

I found the schematic here: 2017 TLX KA USA UB2 (2AW) AT Base https://acurazine.com/forums/fifth-g...s-ewds-947011/
Electronic Wiring Diagram

Could you explain what is "post amp wires" so when I talk to them I know what they are saying instead of alien language when they reply to me..

OEM speakers:

know610

Is this how they should connected it to. Cut wire in pin 15, 16, 19, 20, and 24 (ACC) and tap to fix82?

Pin 15 Brown FL_SP_PRE+
Pin 16 Yellow FL_SP_PRE-
Pin 19 Light Blue FR_SP_PRE+
Pin 20 Black FR_SP_PRE-
Pin 24 Purple ACC

01LSi

Today I used an aftermarket harness (factory harness untouched/no splicing into the factory harness necessary) to connect. The harness took weeks to find because it's not advertised to be used for this application but applicable to other Honda's for other uses.

On the aftermarket harness I left all wiring the same going to the factory amplifier except for the FR+- and FL+- wires (4 in total)

Here's what I learned testing the pre amplifier connection (IOW the wiring that goes from the factory stereo before it reaches the stock factory amplifier). I had a cheap 4 ohm panasonic speaker connected to the FR pre amp wiring. The OEM speakers are 2 ohm. I recorded video of this and will eventually post it.

1. Mute button on the steering wheel still works. Speaker went silent when hitting mute.
2. Volume control moving from 0-40 does nothing audible at all. Speaker played at the same exact volume regardless of the volume adjustment (even at zero) as indicated on the GUI.
3. Handsfree bluetooth calls worked properly - other person could hear/speak to me and I to them. (I had ANC disabled in the diag menus but plugged in)
4. Pre Amp AC voltage while playing a sine wave and pink noise measured at .004 volts or ~5mV. Unforuntately I may have done this part incorrectly. I measured the current while the speaker was still connected and playing the tone, so it was part of the circuit.
5. Used a free RTA app to roughly measure the sound coming out of the cheap speaker, I have a screenshot of it and it seems the whole range is there (the very bottom and very top of the range wasn't picked up by my iPhone and the cheap speaker may not have been putting it out, don't have an RTA so I don't know but it would be a very safe to assumption that the full range is present).

know610

Waiting to see your video. Thank you.

Unfortunately, the shop cut door speaker wires and also cut/butt connect factory harness to "assume" fix82 that was on passenger side (under cabinet)

01LSi

6. You lose fader and balance.
7. You retain Skip controls on the steering wheel and display. Can pause and play using display.
8. Aux works
9. USB / iPhone port works

Can't edit original post for some reason ... so quoting myself to include the above addition.

01LSi

Victoranastacio - In your design did you have them put the Fix 86 before/pre factory amplifier (bypassing the factory amp entirely) or is the Fix 86 installed after the factory amplifier.

It sounds like the Fix86 is after the factory amplifier and you are still using the factory amp which feeds the fix which feeds the JL amp.

Really appreciate your response, thanks.

know610

I look at the wiring diagram and now I understand how the shop wired. They wire to the 18 pin which is post wired. I then unplug 28 pin connector (pre amp) and I don't hear "hiss". Before, they left 24 pin connector connected to factory Amp causing "hiss" noise.

The 18 pin has Front L/R speakers (+/-) , Rear L/R speakers (+/-) , Subwoofer (+/-) , and tweeter (+/-) . The Pre Amp wire only have Front L/R (+/-) speakers.

All factory function works as 01LSi mentions. So I'm not sure if I should ask Shop to re-wire to Pin 24 connector (pre-amp) that only has Front L/R (+/-) speakers?

Conclude: Fix82 is after OEM Amp but since Pre-amp speaker wired unplug, I'm not sure if After or Before??

know610

Factory stereo (28-pin "Pre-Amp) unplugged -//- Factory Amplifier (Post Wire) --> Fix 86 --> Pheonix Gold --> All your aftermarket speakers.
18 Pin Connector: shop cut out Subwoofer (+/-) Pin 2 (white) and 4 (red) because aftermarket Subwoofer connected straight to aftermarket Amp
ANC module unplugged.

So, I'm not sure if Post Wired become Pre Amp since "pre wired" unplugged from Factory Amp.

@01LSi: Have look in here. I think you have Vin# UB1 and your v4 Base? I'm not sure how the Pre Amp Wire work since it only have Front Speaker whereas Post wired had all speakers wire

http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/sm/1/2/Contents/ewd/app/ewd.htm?package=2017_KA_KC_KX_TZ3&diagram=&lang=en u&deriv=9&body=UB1(2WD)&area=KA%20USA&trans=DCT&gr ade=TLX(BASE)&name=TLX&year=2017#

know610

Personally, I think ANC should not be unplugged because it has R/F_MIC_SH, R/L_MIC_+. Instead, should unplug the 4-pin connector from Factory Amp sinve it only have ANC F/R (+/-)

know610

I lie again. Still hiss when mute

know610

01LSi: did you do anything with the "post wired", 18-pin connector?

The 4 Pre Amp Wire (28-pin connector) connected to fix82. Will that female connector still plug back to factory Amp? When I unplugged it, no audio found when car start.

the 18-pin connector- posr wire: do not touch that one?

know610

I give up. The shop said it's not the right way to run wire to Pre-amp. So now they just put filter (RCA) connecting to Fix82. They said all the sh*t that i will all function and button if connect to pre-amp. I mention about you guys did it that way and all button/function work. So they say Ok, let me see how they did it. lol

01LSi

Know can you tell me / take a picture of where exactly they mounted your fix? I need to find a place for mine and hoping there's space in the passenger area.




I'll try to answer you question in more detail but for now but yes people are recommending you tap the wires you circled in blue in your image. Unfortunately you will lose features doing it that way including factory volume controls, but it may solve your hiss problem. You don't remove the harness completely though you only cut off and tap into the FR & FL wires in that harness.




I am pretty sure that if victorianaso (sp) has factory volume control then he has his set up similarly to yours. Hoping he will reply to confirm at least how it's set up. I wish those who worked on their vehicles successfully would chime in. Still waiting for efcrxman (sp) to come back and share his set up as well ... Although at this point I'm pretty close to finished setting things up specifically for this car since it's more complicated than older vehicles, but it would have been pretty nice to have some feedback from those who went the whole way to reply in a little more detail. One user did offer more assistance and guidance by phone whose name I can't think of at the moment but it's really appreciated. To be clear I don't think any of these users owe me anything and I am still very appreciative and thankful for the time they took to give feedback they have given.




I agree with everyone here / bchester you should not be working on the car if you paid them. You paid them so they should make it right for you.

know610

01LSi: They put the fix82 and filter laying flat on the bottom cover under the passenger leg. Slide toward the front of the car and to the right, near factory amp. Yes it's tight.

After adding filter there's still little hiss(high pitch) and "shhhhhh" noise but not as loud. So, they concluded it's an acceptable noise. To be honest, this was from me lowering front/rear gain to almost "min" not cuz of filter. I explain to them about me lowering the gain that's y only "acceptable" noise right now. So they said yea gain need to be lower and all aftermarket system will produce that noise. If I don't like it, I have to pay them to diagnose in detail. bullsh*t

So I asked, what if I hear louder than this? they said to bring it back and they will figure out but if i'm their and noise are acceptable they will charge me.

know610

@01LSi: Where did you ground your Amp?

Bchester6

That shop is bullshit and who determines "acceptable" levels of noise? We are talking about noise associated with an installation of audio equipment which means that it wasn't done correctly and as a business owner I would want my customers to be happy especially if it can be corrected in about 20 minutes by a somewhat competent installer. If you lived anywhere near me I would do it myself just so you stick it to them and call bullshit on them.

Bchester6

Can I ask you why a Fix82 instead of an Fix86?

know610

They told me the only different is fade balance but it's my decision on 82. Not sure why I didn't go with 86.

Whatever I told the tech person, they always got something to say back since they knew it's alien language to me. They install filter cuz they said it's ground loop and current noise now is acceptable based on "code". It's like they r professional and whatever they said is true. If I want to prove them wrong, i need to pay for their time to re-do the work. I did review surrounding within my location and so far they got the best review. That is why I pick them.

At first they owner try to get me when I told them they did a bad wiring on fiix82 until I show them the picture, Then the tech guy said "oh cuz the place tight" that's why they throw me a $20 filter for free lol...

Maybe it could be the wiring that I cannot see? like door speaker etc.. I should open the door panel and photo if it's bad wiring..

know610

They tie all wire together in the trunk. Then they split power and ground to driver side. I though you can't put it together and need about 18inces apart. Picture is in trunk.

01LSi

JL tech told me that the Fix86 demands more than 2 speaker channels as inputs and said I have to buy the 82 because unlike the 86 it will work with only 2 inputs (which is all I have preamp in the base model). I have a feeling that may have been misspoken however the 82 has digital out, the 86 does not, and the 82 still has RCA out as a single pair which is fine for sending to a processor. I have 2 pairs of RCAs laid and one Optical cable laid so I can basically take multiple approaches without gutting the car again. JL's reply to me is copy pasted on a different page here.

So they found space to mount it right under the glove compartment in the plastic part you pull directly down? I'll have to take another look but it seemed like it wouldn't fit in there...

Know, i haven't officially grounded /installed the amps yet. In the other TLX forum they switched to the tail light factory grounding and said it was better than other locations. I measured .03-.04 resistance (or was it .003-.004 I can't remember) using the spare tire threading and the chassis factory ground by the seats. I didn't sand down the spare tire thread mount but it's probably not a good spot anyways... There's a factory grounding point where the seats fold down. I'm still working on the front and planning where to install the Fix and my unconventionally shaped tweeters at the moment.

Its not a fix of the fundamental problem but I have read how the Jensen CI-2rr is the real deal for noise filtering and unlike cheap filters. If you're willing to try it you may be dissapointed but you may be surprised. They say not to run RCAs with power wire if that's what's happening with your zip tie bundle in the trunk, that it's not the best idea. Also sharing the grounding point with as many devices as possible is beneficial. If Victorianaso is tapped into the output side of his amp (which is highly probable because he still has factory volume control) then that would communicate it's possible to amplify the factory amp signal without it being noisy.

Bchester6

I only asked because the fix 86 has multiple outputs opposed to just one set on the 82 . The wiring in the trunk isn't the issue as most cables are shielded to protect against electrical noise. You don't have a ground Loop. I don't know if I've asked you this before but does the inherent noise follow the engine? Meaning, does it fluctuate as you accelerate and decelerate?

know610

the Fix82 was not mounted. It just placed on the black cover. I will take picture when I'm home.

i will cut those tie and separate power/ground from the rest and see what happen with and without filter. Also I will move ground to different location.

@Bchester6: I'll let u know after work. Anyway, are you from east coast - Chester PA?

01LSi

If JL tech did not misspeak then the Fix86 would be fine if you want to go without optical out and need more outputs. I wish they both had 8 total sets of outputs and one model included optical as well. I don't understand that strange segmentation.

If it's correct that he's using a Fix82 and is not using optical then he has one set of RCAs going to his Phoenix gold amplifier because like you said the Fix82 has only has one set of RCAs out

01LSi

@Know does the sound fluctuate with engine/vehicle speed? (Edit never mind you said you were going to reply to that later)

Also to answer your earlier question if it wasn't clear, from your photos the shop did not take the signal directly from your stereo like they said they did, they took it from your factory amplifier. Your pre amp harness (circled in blue) looks like it's untouched.

know610

Yes, the pre-amp harness is untouched. They tapped Fix82 to factory amp harness. They said it's not right to use pre-amp harness since you loose all sound feature and vol button and maybe other features. I will take all photo or video so you can see

know610

From PG. Left Front/rear is 2 male/1 female adopter

Bchester6

wrong coast. San Diego

know610

It hard to tell about the noise because sometime I hear and sometime I don't hear. Not sure if my mind playing game on me about when the accelerator increase the hiiss noise increase and when I step on break it go down like an opposite of a high pitch. Sound is sharp at a high pitch and at a low pitch. Like a "V" at a low pitch and reverse "V" at a high pitch. Seem like rear left and right, front right. Left front not that loud.

Dropbox are picture of Amp wiring in trunk. Ground wire is 4 AWG. It's 1 ft and not long enough to reach screw at the rear passenger. Should I buy 4awg or 0 AWG so I can ground to nut at rear passenger?.

Thanks
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0427rlayy...H4AZOBePa?dl=0

Bchester6

I don't think it's a problem where it's grounded in the trunk. The TL's had the same issue and it wasn't until you grounded the HU to the same ground location as amp did the whine go away. In fact, if you can ground everything to one spot you can eliminate a lot of electrical noise that your experiencing. Read this thread and take what you can from it: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...nk-sub-955600/
The good stuff comes towards the end.

know610

Based on the picture on previous post, how do I check if the ground is good? I watch youtube and majority just test from the car battery to find good ground. Since it's the trunk, how do i test with a multimeter for good ground? What digit is a good ground?

know610

Maybe I need to ground HU too. Question, how do I know which one is HU ground? I will picture tomorrow under driver seat. Hopefully it's the same ground. When he said run HU ground to aftermarket amp ground. Does he mean run a long 16ga ground wire to the trunk where aftermarket amp was grounded?

know610

Based on the diagram and description of V6 Base, is that the Ground (G303) for Audio System? Thanks

Oh, the hiss noise is like this... WeeeeWeeeeWeeee (the big "W" is the starting point then it continue with a long "e") also with that WeeeWeeeeWeeee there's a second sound of "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" aka white noise. Like you tune to a radio station or TV that has no signal broadcast. If I increase gain, shhhhh and high pitch get louder. I notice the high pitch came from rear speaker and right side front speakers. Left side front not as loud on high pitch. The "shhhh" sound produce all speakers. It two separate sound. I can hear both noise. At sometime the WeeeWeeeWeee reach higher when speeding and when break or slow down, it sound like a "circle WeeeWeeeeWeee" " I think it's like an airplane landing noise or about to jet off.

This is hiss noise, white noise like that youtube,

Bchester6

Reground your HU and get off the factory amp. If you aren't comfortable doing this yourself then take it to someone. You now have the info you need to tell them how to get it done.

know610

I do not understand what you mean by "get off the factory amp ". Please explain.
The Ground G303 is reachable

See picture if that what you mean?

know610

Is it like this? Based on the video, insert 16ga ground wire into PG Amp ground slot and run the wire to Post-amp ground wire by doing a T-tap? see picture in previous. If that's the case, can the 16ga ground wire run along with speaker wire passenger side?