OEM rims wheel locks
#1
Instructor
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OEM rims wheel locks
Wondering if someone can give me some clarification.
I have a 12 awd advance with OEM rims. I found the lug size is 14mmx1.5 but I found some posts saying that aftermarket wheel locks don't fit properly because they don't have a ball?
I'm trying to avoid paying $75 for OEM locks. Anyone provide some insight?
I have a 12 awd advance with OEM rims. I found the lug size is 14mmx1.5 but I found some posts saying that aftermarket wheel locks don't fit properly because they don't have a ball?
I'm trying to avoid paying $75 for OEM locks. Anyone provide some insight?
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echodigital (12-24-2014)
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Edward'TLS (12-23-2014)
#5
6G TLX-S
Justnspace is correct.
Honda/Acura factory wheels have ball-shaped lug-nut seats, but all aftermarket wheel locks have conical-shaped seats.
Don't use conical (lock or regular) nuts on Honda/Acura factory wheels, because the lug-nut seats will get ruined.
Honda/Acura factory wheels have ball-shaped lug-nut seats, but all aftermarket wheel locks have conical-shaped seats.
Don't use conical (lock or regular) nuts on Honda/Acura factory wheels, because the lug-nut seats will get ruined.
#6
Drifting
#7
Drifting
Or if you don't mind used locks:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Acura-MDX-TL-OEM-Wheel-Lock-set-with-key-Used-P-N-08W42-TK4-200-/321605665484?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae13102cc&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Acura-MDX-TL-OEM-Wheel-Lock-set-with-key-Used-P-N-08W42-TK4-200-/321605665484?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae13102cc&vxp=mtr
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#8
Given my recent experience working on my step-daughters 2001 TL, I would not use the OEM wheel locks. I just had two of them disintegrate while removing them (both on the front wheels). The first broke out the center but the removal key held it together long enough to get it loose and the part that did not fall off was able to be screwed off. The second one broke apart the top completely so the key could not finish the job, and leaving the remaining bottom part still tight. When using a punch to try to drive it around, it continued to further break up, finally just enough so it would fall off. I was at least able to keep from banging up the stud too badly so it does not have to be replaced, just had to dress out some of the threads.
Examination of the faces of the fractures showed rust, meaning these had been cracked for awhile, starting around the inset locking pattern in the center and continuing down the sides. And the metal looked crystallized. The center inset pattern is what failed first when trying to remove them. Either bad design for strength or bad material choice, or both.
Fortunately this happened while doing other work in my garage and not by the side of the road somewhere and stranding the step-daughter. The remaining two came off OK (making sure to soak them with penetrating oil first) and all four will be replaced with regular lug nuts.
Examination of the faces of the fractures showed rust, meaning these had been cracked for awhile, starting around the inset locking pattern in the center and continuing down the sides. And the metal looked crystallized. The center inset pattern is what failed first when trying to remove them. Either bad design for strength or bad material choice, or both.
Fortunately this happened while doing other work in my garage and not by the side of the road somewhere and stranding the step-daughter. The remaining two came off OK (making sure to soak them with penetrating oil first) and all four will be replaced with regular lug nuts.
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