My 20" teaser
04-26-2010, 09:59 AM
#1
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My 20" teaser
I have gone back and forth with every type of rim design available for the 4G TL. Acura going to a 5x120 bolt pattern hasn't helped with the search at all; it would have been better if they stayed with the 5x114.3 that everyone else uses. There aren't many good designs made in high offset for this bolt pattern and the nice ones have no lip. I decided to go with a mesh design for two reasons. The first is that you can run a mesh without a big lip and it still looks decent. The second is that I don't plan on doing any further mods (other than a tint) and this wheel design will look decent even without dropping her. In my opinion, an aggressive wheel design means I'd have to go with a good drop to finish the look, but a mesh wheel classes the look up without making it look aggressive. But that's MY opinion.
I received the first two pieces of the puzzle today; my hub rings and my TPMS:
The wheels are due tomorrow. I can only hope the lip is the size shown in the ad. It wont be more than 1 1/2" but at least there will be something. That's the other problem with a high offset. You don't get anything for a lip. I'll bring everything down to my local tire shop towards the end of the week to put it all together.
I received the first two pieces of the puzzle today; my hub rings and my TPMS:
The wheels are due tomorrow. I can only hope the lip is the size shown in the ad. It wont be more than 1 1/2" but at least there will be something. That's the other problem with a high offset. You don't get anything for a lip. I'll bring everything down to my local tire shop towards the end of the week to put it all together.
04-26-2010, 02:05 PM
#3
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74.1 to 64.1
04-26-2010, 06:20 PM
#5
an adult perspective
hub rings are for those non-centric aftermarket wheels that require them for universal applications. This way, they can fit the 5x120 wheels to any vehicle that has that bolt pattern, but has different hub sizes. Odds are, unless you're buying wheels from RonJon, you'll need hub rings.
04-26-2010, 06:32 PM
#7
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Trending Topics
04-26-2010, 06:39 PM
#8
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In short, it helps keep the wheels perfectly centered. Even though you can find aftermarket wheels with the right bolt pattern, the hub bore is always overszed in comparison to the hub on your car (except for factory wheels). If it wasn't oversized, the wheel manufacturer would have to make too many different sized wheels (for every car out there). The hub ring acts as a bushing and takes up the gap between the hub diameter on the car and the hub bore on the wheel.
04-26-2010, 06:58 PM
#9
Instructor
Depending on who you talk to - hub rings may or may not be required. It all depends on the wheels you buy, some are hub centric and some are lug centric.
If I recall, the lug centric have acorn type of lugs, so one has to fasten the lugs while the wheels are on the jack, the acorn lugs would take care of centering the wheel.
The hub centric wheels do not have the acorn lugs, the hub help with centering the wheel. Without a proper hub ring for non oem wheels, you could feel some major vibration on the steering wheel at a certain speed as the wheels may not have been mounted correctly.
Personally, I think is always a good idea to have the hub rings whether they are hub centric or lug centric.
Anyone please feel free to correct me if my understanding is not correct.
If I recall, the lug centric have acorn type of lugs, so one has to fasten the lugs while the wheels are on the jack, the acorn lugs would take care of centering the wheel.
The hub centric wheels do not have the acorn lugs, the hub help with centering the wheel. Without a proper hub ring for non oem wheels, you could feel some major vibration on the steering wheel at a certain speed as the wheels may not have been mounted correctly.
Personally, I think is always a good idea to have the hub rings whether they are hub centric or lug centric.
Anyone please feel free to correct me if my understanding is not correct.
04-26-2010, 07:50 PM
#10
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I think there is a little confusion here. Some wheels are availailable with what they refer to as a "universal" lug pattern. There used to be oval shaped lug holes that would allow you to mount the same wheel on several different 4 or 5 bolt patterns (or diameters). As far as I know, that type of design has been gone for years now. If they try to make a wheel with multiple lug patterns, it may be two completely different patterns and have 10 holes drilled instead of 5.
Acorn style lugs are cone shaped at the bottom which help center the wheel when you tighten it down, but that has no bearing on hub centric rings.
Hub centric rings simply help center the wheel when you tighten it down. You don't always need them unless you run in to issues with vibration. I always use them in advance. For $10.00, it doesn't make sense to screw around trying to center the wheels without them.
Acorn style lugs are cone shaped at the bottom which help center the wheel when you tighten it down, but that has no bearing on hub centric rings.
Hub centric rings simply help center the wheel when you tighten it down. You don't always need them unless you run in to issues with vibration. I always use them in advance. For $10.00, it doesn't make sense to screw around trying to center the wheels without them.
04-26-2010, 07:59 PM
#11
Does it matter if the hub rings are plastic or aluminum? How much stress do they recieve? Can't wait to see the wheels you chose!
Last edited by SmokeTL; 04-26-2010 at 07:59 PM. Reason: grammar
04-26-2010, 08:08 PM
#12
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There is virtually no stress on hub rings once you tighten the lugs, so either material is ok. Hub rings are as much an alignment tool as anything else. Some say plastic is better because they are easier to pull out than aluminum. I'll post pics of the wheels tomorrow...they're tracked to be delivered.
04-26-2010, 08:15 PM
#13
Instructor
^ Plastic are easier to remove. I have aluminium(?) or some other metal/alloy and they were a b* to remove. Also, I notice some sort of "rust" ( or the residue of the metal interaction between the hub and the hub ring )
So, if I can have the choice, I'd go for plastic - I think they are referred to as polycarbon(?)
My 0.02
NJ, my hub rings are 79.5 to 64.1 and it is very hard for me to find them in polycarbon unfortunately.
So, if I can have the choice, I'd go for plastic - I think they are referred to as polycarbon(?)
My 0.02
NJ, my hub rings are 79.5 to 64.1 and it is very hard for me to find them in polycarbon unfortunately.
04-26-2010, 08:24 PM
#14
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Sounds like the corrosion from dissimilar metals. Another reason for PC rings. I had a set of aluminum rings that almost became welded to the wheels.
04-26-2010, 09:13 PM
#15
04-27-2010, 10:22 AM
#16
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And they have arrived...
20" x 8.5" ADR M-Classics
Color matched for P/M?
20" x 8.5" ADR M-Classics
Color matched for P/M?
04-27-2010, 03:16 PM
#20
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The color is an identical match to P/M and the polished lip matches the grill. The wheels have a 40mm+ offset so they should stick out 0.85" over stock. They should be close to flush. Tires are on there way and should be here by Friday. With any luck I'll be rolling by the weekend.
04-29-2010, 06:04 PM
#22
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Dropped them off to be mounted tonight. I'll be rolling tomorow!
04-30-2010, 03:34 PM
#24
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Just picked her up and snapped a few quick ones. I've got to clean her up and shine those tires for the full effect.
04-30-2010, 04:13 PM
#25
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a few more:
04-30-2010, 07:30 PM
#30
Instructor
I never thought I'd say this - I'm definitely liking 20" rims on the 4G. Car looks great with the mesh. Good play on the offset, definitely liking the "not overly done flush" look.
Thanks for sharing these pix - definitely gives me more ideas/choices of what I could do with my PM.
Thanks for sharing these pix - definitely gives me more ideas/choices of what I could do with my PM.
04-30-2010, 08:24 PM
#31
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I cant stop now...
04-30-2010, 09:09 PM
#32
Looks Great! I'm getting ready to buy some 20's, was going to go with 19" but there are more tire choices in 20's and cheaper.
I found a set of rims I really like but they are 20x8.5 with a 34mm offset. So that would cause them to stick out an additional .23" from what you have. You think .23" more would hurt? How close is it to hitting the rear fender? Looks close, but can't really tell. I'm lowering mine on eibach's so might have to roll the rear fender, which isn't a problem.
Will
I found a set of rims I really like but they are 20x8.5 with a 34mm offset. So that would cause them to stick out an additional .23" from what you have. You think .23" more would hurt? How close is it to hitting the rear fender? Looks close, but can't really tell. I'm lowering mine on eibach's so might have to roll the rear fender, which isn't a problem.
Will
05-01-2010, 06:30 AM
#33
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Not sure with the drop and another 1/4". You may have to roll. If you look up at my top pick, the rear is close with a drop (depending on how much)
05-01-2010, 02:27 PM
#34
an adult perspective
05-01-2010, 03:24 PM
#35
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Six are yours 8" or 8.5"?
05-01-2010, 04:32 PM
#37
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Running a 35 et with a drop will require a roll unless you pull your tires really tight. Even then you may have issues
05-01-2010, 09:13 PM
#38
I'm really in love with these, http://www.luxury4play.com/wheels-ti...xus-f-wow.html but I think they are around $500 each. Too much for me.
05-02-2010, 07:57 AM
#39
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I'm with ya, but be careful. What you want and what you can really get may be two different things. I almost bought the VVS 083's but because of the high offset, we can't get a decent lip and it really changes the look of the wheel. I looked at a couple of concave designs as well. You need to look at the actual wheel in the offset for our car and not what is in the catalog to see if you like it. They always show the wheel with the best looking offset to get you hooked.
