So I just got Tein sa put on my car and I am wondering if anyone can tell me if I need to address the camber or anything else. Any help is much appreciated.

It had an alignment done after the coils were installed and this is the report I got.

 

How much of a drop do you have on the car? When you lower it that messes with the suspension geometry and in most cases (past an inch or inch and a half of drop) the OEM arms don't have enough of adjustment to keep everything in spec.

The toe and the camber are off a bit, so a set of Ingalls or SPC arms might be worth some thought if you're trying to get the most out of your tires. I'll provide some links below so you can take a look, you'd need two of each:

Adjustable Ball Joint (Front): 35592 - Ingalls Alignment Kit - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
SmartArm Adjustable Camber/Toe Kit (Rear): 35623 - Ingalls Alignment Kit - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!

On a side note: While the toe is much better, you ended up with more camber on 3 out of 4 corners then when you started. Was this to fit wheels, or just from a lack of adjustments?

Hope everything works out for you!

 

Thanks for the info! I said to set it to the recommendations from tein which should be 1.6 in the front and 1.9 in the back if I am remembering correctly. I am not sure why exactly 3 out of 4 corners ended with more camber than when they started. It does have 20 inch rims on it. In your opinion are the numbers close enough or do I need those kits?

 

front right camber needs to be fixed.. everything else looks decent.. i still would get a camber kit tho...

 

I agree. The front right would be the first thing to address, and I would still recommend the rear kit but if you don't have the funds for that right now you could get away with holding off.

The longer you wait the worse the tire wear is going to be, so just keep that in mind!

 

I'd measure the front right to make sure the drop is even with the left. I been running around -2.5 camber for 2 seasons now and do have a rear camber kit but it would prolly be lower if I hadn't. Personally anything under -3 is ok. The wear would be close to even.

 

Is it odd that the front right would be so much different than the front left? I did measure and it appears to be even. I wasn't sure I was on even ground so I measured a couple of times and all 4 corners appear 26 and 1/2 inches from the ground to the top of the wheel well.

Would the Adjustable ball joint (front) in this link fix this issue?

Adjustable Ball Joint (Front): 35592 - Ingalls Alignment Kit - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!

 

I was just looking at street advance myself, I'm still tossed up between the basis and advance. Kind of hard hearing feedback on them with 4G, I know they do ride smoother than stock which is good enough for me. Mine is a DD so what would be best in my situation? note I don't want to buy ball joints and camber stuff just drop them in and go.

 

ARe the advanced worth the extra $cratch? can some one explain the main benifits between basic and advanced to me (I am in the market for lowering the type s)

 

If you're not looking for dampening adjustments then the Basis will serve you just fine, but that's really what you need to figure out since that's the big difference.

If you're looking to stay way away from needing alignment pieces, then you can install the Teins at their highest settings and adjust for as much as you can on the OE arms (which should be able to get you pretty close if not in spec); or you could get something like a set of Koni yellows since those will allow you to retain your stock ride height with the stock spring. Stock spring and stock height don't necessarily mean stock ride quality however, since the Koni yellows have dampening adjustment you'll be able to dial them in to what you're looking for.

Good luck and happy modding! If you'd like pricing feel free to send me a PM!

 

Thanks for the info, I am looking for a slight drop maybe an inch and a half or so just to rid of that unsightly well gap.

 

I don't know what the basis ride like (im sure they ride fine) but the advance gives you options. Mine is set to what tein recommends which is soft. It rides so nice and smooth. Perfect for cruising as I barely feel the crappy roads im driving down. If in the future I want to make it more stiff I have that option. For me I didn't think the advance cost much more than the basis so it was an easy decision.


But anyways does anyone have an answer or any comment on my previous question?

 

From what I hear the Advance and the Basis aren't too dissimilar most people have Basis in their DD but almost equal numbers have the Advance. Basis get a lot of acclaim for being smoother than OEM struts while still having an aggressive feel but from where I'm literally sitting anything better than worn OEM would be an improvement.

 

Ya im sure either or will be a fine decision and ultimately result in a nice driving car. I just looked it up and for my car at least the advance are only $90 usd more than the basis. For me that was a very easy 90 dollar decision.

 

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unfortunately cost is a thing with me because of a baby arrival in a week or 2 so all I can is the coils hence why I asked if I needed any hardware. Do the Advance just plug and play like the Basis?

 

An adjustable ball joint should almost entirely fix that issue. They allow for 1.5° of adjustment, so you'd still be ~.25° off 0 when they're maxed out (but that would still be in spec).

I'd also jack it up and take a look at the arms. Make sure nothing is bent or seems out of place since it's always possible that could have something to do with the discrepancy.

 

You don't NEED any hardware since your OEM tophats can be reused, but some people do like to take the opportunity to replace them while the strut is out.

The Street Advances plug and play just like the Basis. All of Tein's coilovers come out of the box with pre-sets and recommended ranges to help make setting up your car quick and easy.

Congrats on the new baby, I'm sure that's exciting!

 

As mentioned, it should correct the issue but I'd advise you to not buy them. The fronts are within spec and not worth the money. Plus those who do buy them usually want more negative camber for aggressive fitments. If anything, I'd try to get another reading to see if maybe the suspension has settled completely. Or it could be something with the installation.

 

adjustable ball joints are annoying since they hitting the tower area if you are very low. If anything juts do the rears