Replacement part #: Moog K750092

Tools Needed to get the job done in 10 mins or less:
- Die grinder or Cut off tool (preferably)
- Sawzall (Second best)
- Grease gun (optional if your parts have zerk fittings)
- Lucas Marine Grease (Or your favourite brand)
- Antisieze

Tools you can try if you have none of the above:
- Wrench set
- Ratchet with Socket set
- Vise grips
- Dremel (Will take forever too cut bolt use as last resort or go buy a sawzall)
- Grease gun (optional if your parts have zerk fittings)
- Lucas Marine Grease (Or your favourite brand)
- Antisieze


(You are going to need wrenches, ratchets, and sockets either way, which you should already have if you are planning on working on your car.)

PRICE DEPENDS WHERE YOU GET FROM

This is a guide to remove your 10+ year old rusted to shit OEM sway links too sum it up and save time, Cut them off.
I sprayed mine with PB blaster let it soak for a few hours, used my foot and a ratchet to crack the bolt, tried vise grips to hold the other side while i attempted to loosen the nut, popped off the plastic bushing to access the ball joint head used a dremel to square off the ball joint head so it grips better. All useless all it did was spin, or my vise grips fell off but i was using shitty vise grips. In the end i took a 20V dewalt sawzall to it, I would recommend getting a die grinder or cut off tool if you can, its a compact space to get the top one. However the sawzall worked fine it was an awkward angle too cut the bolt and nut off though. After everything is off, install for these parts was easy as they include all the hardware and even have nuts too place your second same sized wrench to prevent the ball joint from spinning while tightening down nut.

My opinion on Moog is they haven't let me down so far. I replaced my upper control arm on my driver side when i installed my coilovers about 2 years on them no issues. Build quality is great alot nicer than the OEM sway links (which snapped on me). However for our vehicle they use what appears to be a rebranded TRW part for the driver side K750093 and a revised design made by moog for the passenger side K750092. Between the two the passenger side part (92) seems to be of better build quality and included all the hardware and pre-installed zerk fittings. I ended up ordering two sets of the passenger side it does not matter for our vehicles if you swap them. The main thing is that the zerk fittings are accessible when you go to grease them. Speaking of grease i use Lucas Marine Grease as they appear to be a really good option from specs and what i have read about them. Also the fact Moog recommends either the extra heavy duty one or the Marine one both Lucas brand. I figure if the people who made the parts im using are saying "hey use this one its good with our shit" and from looking into them myself, I should probably give it a shot.

Moog is made worldwide from Japan, Germany, Mexico, USA, ect. I recieved two parts from different countries, one from Mexico and one from Japan. I ended up using the Mexico made ones just because they seem to be made better Moog parts are also made by machines to prevent human error according to a video i watched on youtube which i will provide a link for. You can choose whichever part brand you want, Mevotech is also a popular option. However, remember your opinion of brand choice is going to be different from other peoples. Some people hate Moog some people love them from my experience they do just fine. Unfortunately i can't tell you 100% that Moog is the best as i haven't tried every brand in the world. At the end of the day it is your vehicle and you can put whatever part you want on it. Hopefully now this post won't get filled with people arguing over which brand is the best, remember you only gain true knowledge from your own personal experiences, you can read a million different articles but still won't learn unless you give it a shot.

Here are some pictures of the two parts i recieved both are Moog brand:

Top Photo: Moog "TRW" K750093 "Japan 555"
Bottom Photo: Moog K750092 "Taco town"




As you can see the Mexican made Moogs are thicker and seem to be more robust. They are also alot heavier than the "TRW" ones. Which are also a sealed design, nothing wrong with that my 10+ year old sealed OEM ones grease was absolutely fine they were worn to shit, but they were 10+ years old and were beaten to death by me and my aggressive driving. Serviceable joints are ment to prolong the life of the ball joint providing you actually service them i try to do mine every oil change or every other oil change depends on how often you like changing your oil.

Here is a picture of the installed Moog Sway links:


Don't mind the rust i live in Canada and road salt is a bitch.

I also antisiezed the shit out of everything just incase i need to get back in there. It may wash off but i would rather have it there than not. In terms of torque spec they should be torqued to 60 ft. Lbs. But unless you have a mini torque wrench you're going to be tightening it until you say "Yep that ain't going nowhere".

"ALL MOOG GREASEABLE PARTS SHOULD BE GREASED UPON INSTALLATION"

MOOG PRODUCTION VIDEO

Hopefully this helps some people who want too try this DIY all in all its a simple job with the correct tools.

Im going to be doing a full front and rear suspension rebuild using Moog parts. I will take pictures and posts threads for each individual part i replace, to further help anyone out looking to DIY.

 

My RSB was loose due to rusted out links. Got the moog's installed on mine as well back in august. Feels like a much better part than the OEM ones. Can't tell if I feel much of a difference on the road though. Might have felt a bit tighter in the corners but not perceptible.