Acura11TL

Is there a fix for this issue? Hoping the dealer will fix the issue. The car has been in the service bay 2 separate times and no fix. The technician hooked up a computer to the car and sent the data to Acura headquarters in California. Acura came back and said the data was normal (i.e. within their range). The issue is driving my crazy and is taking away from the driving experience of the vehicle.

Shudder - car slightly below 1500 rpm's shakes and a loud noise similar to an engine rattle? I do mostly city driving and it's a constant issue now.

Thank you for your time

DefMunkie

Currently I'm not aware of a fix for this issue.

There has been a recall on the Torque Converter and Auto transmission retune/reflash. Check with your dealer if it has been done.

There have been no catastrophic or major failures reported from this shudder...it's only an annoyance at this point.

I keep the issue under control by servicing the transmission fluid every other oil change along with the TC (Approx every 14k), this has worked to keep the shudder at a minimum for me. I still think it is a mismatched power band issue. If you downshift with the paddle shifters and keep the rpm over 2,500 it will be fine...after 40mph it's no longer an issue

I would recommend using the search function as this topic has been very well covered in this section.

BSG1

Not much to add other than I feel your pain. I've done the same thing, twice. They send the data to Acura and it gets denied. Mine makes a horrible vibrating at low speeds at below 1500 rpms too. But I haven't been able to replicate it as well on the test drives as I can other times, although any vibrating and growling should be a concern regardless of how exemplified it is.

xtreme2014

I took the car to Dealer twice and they said normal. I pissed off and bought me a case of ATF transmission fluid and changed it myself. Just drain and fill, there are 2 more to go..I'll let you guys know if it help about shudder/jerk transmission.

Shgeek

They need to replace the torque converter, just go in and tell them exactly what it is and they should take care of it. Be aware that it will come back, at least for for me it did. Check my thread out.

Tonyware

I think I wrote about that before, I think the issue is that the oil is getting too hot. I spent the entire winter (up here in Canada in freezing temps 4-5 months) with no vibrations in 4th at low speed. Now, with temp well above the freezing point, second-third drive of the day and the vibration comes back. I suspect that a larger tranny oil cooler will fix the issue. No software or drain and re-fill stuff. BTW, there is no way for the techs at Honda to know the tranny oil temperature to say that "everything is ok". Yep, there is a bit of research the Acura engineers need to do to properly address customer issues. Hope they do. After all, this is a premium brand (roll eyes, maybe).

nyblue

This thread is comforting and frustrating at the same time. It's good to hear that I'm not the only one experiencing this problem. But then I get angry that such a nice car has this characteristics. Reluctantly I've decided to look for a replacement.

jim_c

The shuddering is very likely caused by the incorrect application of the lockup clutch(es) in the TC, but it is not necessarily true that the TC must be replaced. The lockup clutch or clutches (I believe in '12 the TL got a second lockup clutch, as if one isn't enough trouble) are controlled by various sensors and electronic circuits. There is a temperature factor for sure since lockup is not supposed to happen before the vehicle is warmed up. The reason for the shuddering etc. is that when the clutch locks there is a mechanical connection between the engine and the drivetrain, just like in a car with a standard trans. It's the same sort of symptoms you get when you drive a standard and forget to put the clutch in as you slow down and come to a stop. The dealership should be able to diagnose and fix these issues; there is plenty of guidance in the shop manuals. It's always good to have clean ATF, but the fluid per se is not the issue and changing it is not going to do much for you.

Acura11TL

Jim, what sort of fix do you believe would take? If changing the transmission fluid does not work and it's not an issue with the torque converter failing, what step do you think the dealership would take to fix the issue?

Thanks for your time

BSG1

I dropped my TL off at another dealership, they were able to replicate it and send the data to Acura. They are now replacing the torque converter. This second dealership was well aware this is a common issue (first one said they've never heard of a torque converter issue on the TL), and also said they've never had a car come back with an issue after the TC has been replaced. So here's to hoping the problem will be fixed.

I think you just need to be vigilant and take it in as many times as necessary until they can get a "snapshot" to send to Acura; sounds like Acura won't do anything unless they have this data to show the issue. Fortunately, as someone mentioned above, there doesn't seem to be any actual failures caused by this, and also the warranty for the TC is covered until 100k miles or so since it is a known issue.

MED

Anyone know why the shifting feels different when the a/c is on?

jim_c

Acura11TL :
It's hard to say what the fix is for your car. It appears that several members here have had torque converter replacement. I believe the 09 - 11 cars have a single lockup clutch but the '12s and later have two clutches in the TC. These clutches can operate (lock up) in second gear and higher. The lockup function is controlled by the power train computer which receives signals from several sensors for vehicle speed, temperature, brake system status, etc. I am not knowledgeable about the whole system. The dealers have routines they should go through in diagnosing trans problems which includes driving the vehicle with the test equipment plugged into your cars computer. You van get all the gory details from the service manual that ArtUnique has posted on this board. The problem is that the dealer's troubleshooting requires a smart technician who is well trained and it's a very time consuming process. But if your car is exhibiting problems with the lockup functions, there should be obvious symptoms. I suppose the problem could be a faulty converter, which is expensive and labour intensive to replace. But if the problems originate in the electronics, then you might get the same issues even with a new TC. So they have to find the real root cause to fix the car properly and permanently. Keep trying until you get satisfaction. If you are under warranty they should fix it for free of course. If you are out of warranty........ouch.
Sorry I can't be more helpful, it's a complex problem and I have no recent experience in the trade.

BC2G

i had a bad shudder at low rpm around 30 mph...

i replaced all motor mounts - didnt fix
i changed the axles to raxles - no more shudder

I also did 3 tranny fluid changes


why are you assuming its the torque converter? check the axles!

Tonyware

Thanks for the tip. It is true that sometimes the vibration or shudder may be a problem with the inner joint or a bent shaft, during acceleration. These raxles maybe more light than the OEM too so maybe they put less load on the entire system so it locks the 4th gear at low speeds easier. I'll look into it to see if this is an axle issue.

mynameisjacob

I get the same shudder on my car. This is obviously a wide spread issue but like others have said... an annoyance, not a precursor to critical failure. Based on reading all the posts and complaints and speaking with my service adviser, it all has to do with the lockup clutch on the torque converter. I've also gotten pretty good at simulating the shudder.

1. Assuming you're at a dead stop... speed up to about 40+MPH... this will ensure your lockup clutch on your TC has engaged.

2. Let off the gas and let car coast and decelerate to about 15~20MPH.

3. GENTLY depress the throttle.

4. If your TC has its lockup clutch still engaged, you will experience a judder as if you're driving over a metal grating.

I experience this the most during stop-and-go traffic on the highway since it is most conducive to the driving conditions I posted above. At this point I am trying to figure out what exactly is causing that judder/grinding noise. Can it be the clutch actually slipping? Could it be the transmission fluid being abnormally compressed? (kinda like fluid cavitating under a pump impeller) I don't know. Any ideas?

MED

This is a good summary and mirrors my experience. I also tend to get a pronounced kickdown as I'm decelerating around 40. I may take mine to the dealer and see if I can replicate the growling/rumbling I get around 25 mph as I'm slowly accelerating. If I accelerate up to exactly 20 and let my foot off the gas, the car shudders.

chiptouz

Finally got the dealership to acknowledge that I had the torque converter shudder issue! Parts are ordered will have the car back in a few days. Its nice at 90k miles getting a new torque converter. This should be the final item. Have the new software, new fly wheel (or whatever it is called) and not the torque converter. Looks like the 100k mile extended warranty is paying for itself.

Acura11TL

Chiptouz, what symptom was your car exhibiting to make you realize it was the torque converter? I have an appointment Monday morning at my local dealer. Hoping for a fix.

Thanks

minsbang

I've been having similar issues for the past month or so. I just didn't have the time to take it to the dealership for them to take a look at due to my business trips. I'll be dropping it off in a few weeks and hope my wallet won't get raped.


For me, it happens when I first start the car for the day (after leaving it parked overnight). This means that I'll have to leave the car at the dealership for them to replicate the incident.


When I turn the wheel (left or right) and accelerate, the car vibrates ALOT. Luckily, I haven't had anyone in the car with me when I first drive it for the day so I'm saving myself the embarrassment. =)


I have a '10 SH AWD with approximately 46k miles. I'm out of warranty and hope it won't cost me too much $ to get this replaced. I don't recall seeing this in the list of recalls. If it's too much $, should I just deal with it? I'll most likely be trading in the car in about two years and I'm willing to live with it, unless you guys think it'll cost me a lot more $ down the short road.


Any additional advice/info is greatly appreciated.


Thank you in advance.

dtrayers

The torque converter is part of the powertrain... 6yrs/70000 miles. You should be good.
http://www.hondanews.com/channels/ac...specifications

minsbang

Thank you dtrayers!!!! Must appreciated.

Pghighway

Mine is an older Acura, 05 RL with 128K, but one tiny tube of Lubegard Shudder Fixx and the shudder was gone. Still have to see if it work long term, but so far so good.

Im not under warranty so having them guess at $105 an hour was not an option. They did diagnose Torque Converter replacement for $2200 so I made a few calls to mechanics and they suggested Shudder Fixx. Like I said, on 100 miles thus far, but 1500 RPM shudder is no longer there.

NBP04TL4ME

Lubeguard Shudder interested to hear how/if this works long term.