No Power Steering-Slew of Lights, etc.
#1
No Power Steering-Slew of Lights, etc.
I'll admit I'm not a car guru, but I understand mechanical and electrical concepts. The problem I had this morning has me stumped and hopefully after I describe the symptoms and what is found after the shop I took the car to looks at the car can help others when this happens....
2009 TL AWD base, 102,000 miles
Went to start the car last night leaving work and I could tell it labored very slightly when turning over. I had been painting the rotor hubs and calipers on it last weekend and the battery died within minutes of having the door open and the radio on. It was very hard to get started again (this weekend) and I figured I was about due for a new battery. Last night I told myself that I need to get a battery today if I could even get it to start.
This morning I went to start the car and it labored very hard to turn over. I felt lucky I got one more start out of it and was going to get the battery replaced today. I let the car run for 20min before starting off to work.
Pulling out of the driveway the dash lights up with VSA, AWD, Emission Sys, Check Engine lights. No oil or battery light comes on. The power steering goes out and I stop, back up back in the driveway and the power steering starts working again. I wasn't sure, but I figured this was still something with the electrical system and I'd drive it directly to the dealer.
As I began to accelerate once I am out of the neighborhood the car basically kicks out when it started going beyond 2500-3000RPMs I freak out and turn around and go home. I leave the car on as I don't know if it will start again because the battery or altenator may be bad. If I can drive it to the dealer I still wanted to as I live 35miles from them and towing it there would be a huge inconvenience. I decide to try and baby it back up the road to see how it goes and it went fine. I couldn't accelerate fast, but the car would get up to 70mph on the highway without any issue. It is at the dealer now.
Is it possible it is an alternator or a fuel pump issue? Alternator because of the battery drain and the fuel pump because of the lack of ability to accelerate quickly?
Other things to consider:
-There was no fluid splattered inside the engine compartment
-One belt squealed for 45-90seconds this morning when I started it up, but it was raining. The belt quit after that time frame.
-I put a new headlight on the passenger side last week as the old one had the seal broken and water was getting in it. I was an idiot and purchased bulbs on ebay to save some coin and ended up getting some purple 10000k bulbs looks horrible. In addition to this I forgot to put a bulb in for the turn signal. The battery drain started directly after that.
I'll keep you updated and welcome any similar experiences or suggestions.
-Mike
2009 TL AWD base, 102,000 miles
Went to start the car last night leaving work and I could tell it labored very slightly when turning over. I had been painting the rotor hubs and calipers on it last weekend and the battery died within minutes of having the door open and the radio on. It was very hard to get started again (this weekend) and I figured I was about due for a new battery. Last night I told myself that I need to get a battery today if I could even get it to start.
This morning I went to start the car and it labored very hard to turn over. I felt lucky I got one more start out of it and was going to get the battery replaced today. I let the car run for 20min before starting off to work.
Pulling out of the driveway the dash lights up with VSA, AWD, Emission Sys, Check Engine lights. No oil or battery light comes on. The power steering goes out and I stop, back up back in the driveway and the power steering starts working again. I wasn't sure, but I figured this was still something with the electrical system and I'd drive it directly to the dealer.
As I began to accelerate once I am out of the neighborhood the car basically kicks out when it started going beyond 2500-3000RPMs I freak out and turn around and go home. I leave the car on as I don't know if it will start again because the battery or altenator may be bad. If I can drive it to the dealer I still wanted to as I live 35miles from them and towing it there would be a huge inconvenience. I decide to try and baby it back up the road to see how it goes and it went fine. I couldn't accelerate fast, but the car would get up to 70mph on the highway without any issue. It is at the dealer now.
Is it possible it is an alternator or a fuel pump issue? Alternator because of the battery drain and the fuel pump because of the lack of ability to accelerate quickly?
Other things to consider:
-There was no fluid splattered inside the engine compartment
-One belt squealed for 45-90seconds this morning when I started it up, but it was raining. The belt quit after that time frame.
-I put a new headlight on the passenger side last week as the old one had the seal broken and water was getting in it. I was an idiot and purchased bulbs on ebay to save some coin and ended up getting some purple 10000k bulbs looks horrible. In addition to this I forgot to put a bulb in for the turn signal. The battery drain started directly after that.
I'll keep you updated and welcome any similar experiences or suggestions.
-Mike
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
because the vehicle has so many gadgets, it sounds like the battery is on its last leg and needs to be replaced.
once the battery is replaced, report back to us.
please dont use ebay bulbs and hurry and get the factory bulbs back in.
if they are indeed 10000kelvin, you lost a lot of usable light. you must be straining your eyes at night and especially in the rain. NOT GOOD for you or other drivers on the road.
the power steering is ELECTRONIC.
so, if the battery cant power all the gadgets.....
once the battery is replaced, report back to us.
please dont use ebay bulbs and hurry and get the factory bulbs back in.
if they are indeed 10000kelvin, you lost a lot of usable light. you must be straining your eyes at night and especially in the rain. NOT GOOD for you or other drivers on the road.
the power steering is ELECTRONIC.
so, if the battery cant power all the gadgets.....
Last edited by justnspace; 02-20-2014 at 09:26 AM.
#3
because the vehicle has so many gadgets, it sounds like the battery is on its last leg and needs to be replaced.
once the battery is replaced, report back to us.
please dont use ebay bulbs and hurry and get the factory bulbs back in.
if they are indeed 10000kelvin, you lost a lot of usable light. you must be straining your eyes at night and especially in the rain. NOT GOOD for you or other drivers on the road.
the power steering is ELECTRONIC.
so, if the battery cant power all the gadgets.....
once the battery is replaced, report back to us.
please dont use ebay bulbs and hurry and get the factory bulbs back in.
if they are indeed 10000kelvin, you lost a lot of usable light. you must be straining your eyes at night and especially in the rain. NOT GOOD for you or other drivers on the road.
the power steering is ELECTRONIC.
so, if the battery cant power all the gadgets.....
To answer your question about straining my eyes, yes the 10000k light output sucked. Luckily I only did the one light (just changed one headlight assembly)j and was going off of the amount of light largely put out by the driver side.
I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
#5
You mean Mike Lowwwwwwwwwry?! Great name to have, right?
I understand the issue with the power steering, but I'm not grasping the inability to "give it gas" or accelerate without the car basically cutting out. Is it a matter of the fuel pump not getting power because the battery is basically running on its last leg? I'll apologize as I grew up thinking that the battery was basically needed to get the car started and once started it you were good. I am assuming that has changed with newer cars because of the amount of electrical gadgets on the car, power steering, and other electrical components. Basically what I'm trying to ask you if the fuel pump is strictly a mechanical part or is it electro-mechanical?
-Mike Lowwwwwwwwry
I understand the issue with the power steering, but I'm not grasping the inability to "give it gas" or accelerate without the car basically cutting out. Is it a matter of the fuel pump not getting power because the battery is basically running on its last leg? I'll apologize as I grew up thinking that the battery was basically needed to get the car started and once started it you were good. I am assuming that has changed with newer cars because of the amount of electrical gadgets on the car, power steering, and other electrical components. Basically what I'm trying to ask you if the fuel pump is strictly a mechanical part or is it electro-mechanical?
-Mike Lowwwwwwwwry
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
LOL is that really your name?
the fuel pump has electrical sensors and is mechanical.
however, it's not really a maintenance kind of thing.
the fuel pump and filter rarely fail, as they are hidden inside the gas tank.
you're on the right track, tho!
lets solve one problem at a time. lets see if a new battery will take care of your electrical gremlins first!
then we can move on to the idle/fuel problem
the fuel pump has electrical sensors and is mechanical.
however, it's not really a maintenance kind of thing.
the fuel pump and filter rarely fail, as they are hidden inside the gas tank.
you're on the right track, tho!
lets solve one problem at a time. lets see if a new battery will take care of your electrical gremlins first!
then we can move on to the idle/fuel problem
#7
If I only was that cool. I'm a Mike, but just Mike Lowry to others. For some reason I think if your name is Mike it is common to get the nickname Mike Lowry. Friends called me that in high school, in college and now have people who I work with who have no idea I've ever even seen the movie Bad Boys calling me that.
Dealer says battery only. We'll see if that is the fix. Good day for them as they got me for a brake flush, oil change, cabin filter, replace the headlight bulbs and the ballast on the drive side. The good news it my worst fears seem to not be reality and I'm not out big money for any big failures.
Hopefully if anyone searches the internets now they may see this and know what that is.
-Mike
Dealer says battery only. We'll see if that is the fix. Good day for them as they got me for a brake flush, oil change, cabin filter, replace the headlight bulbs and the ballast on the drive side. The good news it my worst fears seem to not be reality and I'm not out big money for any big failures.
Hopefully if anyone searches the internets now they may see this and know what that is.
-Mike
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#10
#11
6G TLX-S
If you have a weak or bad battery, all kinds of weird engine/electrical/electronic problems will crop up unavoidably, simply because there ain't enough +12V juice to feed them.
Replace the bad battery first, then check and see if those problems will reoccur.
Replace the bad battery first, then check and see if those problems will reoccur.
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (02-21-2014)
#13
The battery was it. Got the car back today and it started easier (obviously) and seemed to accelerate better, etc. It could be a façade, but it seems like the entire car runs more efficiently with the ne battery.
Headlights changed to matching 4300K bulbs. Glad to not look like a 16 year old in a 92' Civic with a K&N intake kit and cheap muffler when I come up on people. I will admit that a shade of blue looks nice, but I'll stay away from messing with the stock lights.
Headlights changed to matching 4300K bulbs. Glad to not look like a 16 year old in a 92' Civic with a K&N intake kit and cheap muffler when I come up on people. I will admit that a shade of blue looks nice, but I'll stay away from messing with the stock lights.
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (02-21-2014)
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