Door Lock Actuators going in and out
#1
Door Lock Actuators going in and out
2010 Acura TL tech, my door actuators are going in and out intermittently, sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. It's really annoying when I'm carrying a bunch of things for work only to find out my door won't unlock this time.
First time it happened I was still under warranty, (Rear left door) - Repaired under warranty
Second time: Front Right Passenger door
Third time: Rear left door again ( Now I'm out of Warranty)
Anyone have this happen to them? I took it to the dealership, told them my about the 1st repair and they basically said no go, I'm out of warranty now. POS.
First time it happened I was still under warranty, (Rear left door) - Repaired under warranty
Second time: Front Right Passenger door
Third time: Rear left door again ( Now I'm out of Warranty)
Anyone have this happen to them? I took it to the dealership, told them my about the 1st repair and they basically said no go, I'm out of warranty now. POS.
#2
Not sure if this is related by my 2010 TL SH-AWD, 80,000 miles, had problems with the driver's side door lock. Sometimes it would lock and unlock, sometimes not. I had to revert to using the key to lock and unlock the door at times. Touching the handle and/or pushing the exterior door button and/or pushing the remote lock wouldn't help. I took it to the dealer and asked if it was actuator related. They wound up replacing the entire latch (under extended warranty).
#3
My 2005 Acura TSX had this problem and it was an Acura design flaw, the actuators were built with plastic gears that would eventually wear down and round out causing the doors to only work sometimes depending on the temperature outside (the expansion of the plastic in hot weather seemed to help the issue a little). I wouldn't doubt it if the problem you're experiencing is from the same kind of issue. I replaced one myself on my TSX, it was a pain in the ass to get at.
#4
Burning Brakes
My driver door actuator just went out (totally dead) after misbehaving for a week. Can't use remote. Have to use key (1st time ever)
#5
Burning Brakes
I replaced my driver door latch this weekend. Followed the 09-10 service manual (same as my 2012 service manual) and the directions were perfect. I did not deviate. Took about 1+1/2 to 2 hours from garage door up to garage door down. I took my time and retaped the vapor barrier behind the door panel and put away my tools. I did need my impact driver to remove the latch screws. This is the same tool used to remove the screws that hold the wheel brakes discs on the hub. Getting the outer door lock cable reinserted was a bit tricky but I managed. I had to put the key in the outer lock and turn it a little to get things lined up. Also, the use of a 4" diameter mirror helped tremendously. And make sure the window is UP before you unplug the door panel or you'll have to replug; not reinstall but replug. Door lock works great now.
Last edited by Reorge; 10-10-2016 at 02:09 PM.
#6
I went through the same process recently, because the lock cylinder had seized and the key wouldn't work. I guess when you don't use the key at all, since new... the lock cylinder rusts. Good thing to check once in a while if the key can lock/unlock just in case the battery goes dead or you have to disconnect the battery and lock the car if you are parking it for a long time. At least the new lock cylinder part number isn't the same as the original so I guess Honda has short of acknowledged that the lock cylinders on the 09's (at least) were bad. Frustrating to remove that plastic weather sealing and put it back on without ripping it apart... oh well !
PS. ah, forgot... if you change the lock cylinder, give the serial number to any Acura dealership and ask them to put it in their computer database, just in case you lose the keys. The new lock serial number will get associated with the car VIN so that they'll know.
PS. ah, forgot... if you change the lock cylinder, give the serial number to any Acura dealership and ask them to put it in their computer database, just in case you lose the keys. The new lock serial number will get associated with the car VIN so that they'll know.
Last edited by Tonyware; 10-11-2016 at 08:02 PM.
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Reorge (10-11-2016)
#7
Burning Brakes
I had to tear my plastic vapor barrier and repair it with tape. I have been using HVAC metal duct tape for auto repairs for many years. It conforms nicely to uneven surfaces and adheres well when installed. It also holds up very well in the harsh conditions of heat, cold, vibration, and humidity. I usually purchase at Home Depot and I keep a roll in the garage. See attached picture of my latch change right before I install the door liner.
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Tonyware (10-16-2016)
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#8
Yeah, between metal tape and gorilla tape... there is a lot that can be fixed with those two!
#9
Excellent thread.
I had the same issue on my tsx v6 and I ended up doing the same thing but i ordered just the door latch motor which honda sells for the accord. When i compared the schematics of the latch assemblies, the parts appeared to be almost the same. I took the chance and it paid off. Honda sells the latch motor for $40. Acura sells the entire assembly for $200 or so.
The motor would have to be installed to the existing latch assembly which will require further disassembly of the latch unit. I was able to get all to work but it does take extra time to get it all back together.
I noticed that the accord uses a different steel bar then the tsx for actuating the door lock. So i had to reuse the original actuator bar.
If i experience a door lock issue on my wife's TL i will attempt this method take some pictures of the motor assembly for reference.
Cheers to the OP for posting pictures.
I had the same issue on my tsx v6 and I ended up doing the same thing but i ordered just the door latch motor which honda sells for the accord. When i compared the schematics of the latch assemblies, the parts appeared to be almost the same. I took the chance and it paid off. Honda sells the latch motor for $40. Acura sells the entire assembly for $200 or so.
The motor would have to be installed to the existing latch assembly which will require further disassembly of the latch unit. I was able to get all to work but it does take extra time to get it all back together.
I noticed that the accord uses a different steel bar then the tsx for actuating the door lock. So i had to reuse the original actuator bar.
If i experience a door lock issue on my wife's TL i will attempt this method take some pictures of the motor assembly for reference.
Cheers to the OP for posting pictures.
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Reorge (10-17-2016)
#10
Burning Brakes
What year accord did you order the part from (or part number)?
#11
72150-TA0-A12 - Genuine Honda Latch Assy., L. FR. Door Power
The link above is the part i ordered. Its door specific so you would need to order according to the door it belongs to. I believe i ordered from the 8th Generation accord 4 door. 2008-2012 year.
If you look at the diagram in the link above you will need to remove your door latch cables and connect them to the new actuator. For the tsx i reused the steel bar im sure the tl might need to do the same thing.
The link above is the part i ordered. Its door specific so you would need to order according to the door it belongs to. I believe i ordered from the 8th Generation accord 4 door. 2008-2012 year.
If you look at the diagram in the link above you will need to remove your door latch cables and connect them to the new actuator. For the tsx i reused the steel bar im sure the tl might need to do the same thing.
#12
Burning Brakes
72150-TA0-A12 - Genuine Honda Latch Assy., L. FR. Door Power
The link above is the part i ordered. Its door specific so you would need to order according to the door it belongs to. I believe i ordered from the 8th Generation accord 4 door. 2008-2012 year.
If you look at the diagram in the link above you will need to remove your door latch cables and connect them to the new actuator. For the tsx i reused the steel bar im sure the tl might need to do the same thing.
The link above is the part i ordered. Its door specific so you would need to order according to the door it belongs to. I believe i ordered from the 8th Generation accord 4 door. 2008-2012 year.
If you look at the diagram in the link above you will need to remove your door latch cables and connect them to the new actuator. For the tsx i reused the steel bar im sure the tl might need to do the same thing.
Last edited by Reorge; 10-17-2016 at 04:02 PM.
#13
You are correct. For the TSX when i was searching i could only get the more expensive assembly. I guess for the TL they sell the latch actuator assembly which is very cost effective, the same as what i used from the accord.
In the future i might just order a TL one if i have another failure.
Thanks.
In the future i might just order a TL one if i have another failure.
Thanks.
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Reorge (10-18-2016)
#14
I started to notice this problem a year ago started with the front passenger side door lock acting up. And now the driver side lock is also acting up. I notice that this issue only happens when the weather becomes warmer; never had issue during colder weather. I know it's weird but this is what's happening lol
#16
Hey guys. Have a 2010 acura tl and am having an issue with the doors and dont know what I should replace the actuator pr the latch assembly? Need a some help. Cant open the doors with the keyless remote from outside have to use the key. When I'm inside and want to close the doors all the doors lock except the drivers door. When I lock the door manually on the drivers side door it makes a funny sound like its struggling or shitting itself even more. If anyone knows what the issue is itd be much appreciated.