CerberusKy

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This may not be an issue, it may just be due to me not being used to my car yet.... To me it seems like the clutch engages pretty high on the pedal travel, which I do not like. Is this the case with others who have the 6MT, or so I need to adjust the clutch cable?

TIA.

mY sLOW UA6

I dont think there is a clutch cable on our cars we have hydrolic clutches.

justnspace

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my 3rd gen is like this as well.
the clutch engagement is SUPER HIGH.

I like my american cars. Hmmph!


anyway, there is a way to adjust the pedal.

JM2010 SH-AWD

It's definitely higher than my last car, but I've gotten used to it completely.

IDK if there's a way to adjust the clutch pedal travel/engagement point.

justnspace

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while there is away to adjust the pedal, it wont change the clutch engagement point.
its not advisable to mess with the pedal height

CerberusKy

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Thanks all. I'll do some research, and if I find a way to do it, I'll post back here.

CerberusKy

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https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/6mt-clutch-adjustment-3g-garage-092-a-558971/
I will play with this later today and post any results I can manage (If Mothers day activities allow me the time).

CerberusKy

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Anyone interested, this is SIMPLE!

what you need:
17mm box-end wrench
12mm box-end wrench
needle-nose pliers
flash light

* open drivers side door
* move seat all the way back
* remove panel in front of clutch pedal (Twist turn knob, and gently pull)
* Disconnect wire from panel
* use needle-nose pliers to remove wire guide from panel.
* put flashlight on the floor facing clutch pedal assembly.
* remove wire from clutch pedal position switch (b in diagram)
* use 17 mm wrench to loosen clutch pedal position switch lock nut (a in diagram)
* back out clutch pedal position switch
* use 12 mm wrench to loosen clutch push-rod locknut (d in diagram)
* use needle-nose pliers to remove pin from the bolt that holds the push-rod to the clutch pedal.
* pull the above mentioned bolt out of the clutch pedal.
* turn the push-rod in (counter clockwise) the desired amount.
* Put the bolt that holds the push-rod to the clutch pedal back in.
* Insert the pin into the above mentioned bolt.
* Tighten the clutch push-rod locknut (d in diagram).
* Adjust the clutch pedal position switch to the desired position.
* Tighten the clutch pedal position switch lock nut (a in diagram).
* Insert the wire back into the clutch pedal position switch.
* Reattach the wire guide to the panel.
* Insert the wire into the plug on the panel.

DONE.

It took me almost as long to write this up than it did to do the work.
Cheers and good luck.

Edward'TLS

So the clutch will now engage/disengage at a lower pedal height ?

CerberusKy

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Yes, still a little high for my liking, but much better than the factory setting.

maddogtheta

How far in did you turn the push rod?

CerberusKy

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All the way. It still lets out a little higher then I would like, but much better. Also, I moved the clutch pedal position switch so it does not let the pedal come all the way up to the top, which makes for a sorter pedal throw.

maddogtheta

I did this yesterday, it makes the clutch pedal feel like it's supposed to by engaging at the bottom of the clutch travel rather than the middle. Awesome fix!

CerberusKy

iTrader: (1)

MadDog, did you turn the push-rod so it was as far at it would go as well? I would still like my engagement a little lower, but I can live with it now.

maddogtheta

I turned the push rod as far as I could, for me the clutch engagement is perfect as it starts engaging just past starting to raise my foot.

mY sLOW UA6

Hmmmm I wonder if anyone has tried this on the 3g

sympley

i just tried this mod but can not see much difference. I followed all the steps but it is not much difference. I think I am messing up when it comes to rotating the push rod. Is it actually the push rod you are turning counter clockwise or the bracket that attaches to the clutch pedal. When I rotate the push rod all it does is moves the bracket bit in or out. Overall I probably changed the pedal height by about 4mm. Can you guys help me out.

sympley

Never mind I fiddled with it a bit more and got it done. I used needle nose pliers to turn the push rod and it went in much more. now it engages much closer to the floor.

Is there any negative side effect of doing this?

So far everything is well but...

CerberusKy

iTrader: (1)

Glad you got it... should not be any negative side effects what-so-ever, out side of larger left calf muscle.

Shoot2Thrill

FWIW Interestingly comparing the 04,08 and 12 each successive one the clutch grab is a bit higher. You do notice it when you drive them back to back. Even the 04 is high by most cars as a standard. Gotten used to it but will still look at potential to adjust them.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Had this thread been around several months ago I may have made this change, but now I'm used to it and don't want to have to adjust again.

Now when a DIY thread comes around about removing the valve in the slave cylinder I may have to partake...assuming it won't lead to issues (which the 3G thread leads me to believe).

3rdGenHybrid

Adjusting the pedal height is adjusting the actual clutch engagement/disengagement, there are actual specs for pedal travel, changing them can cause premature clutch wear, not adjusting the clutch pedal height after installing an aftermarket clutch is also another reason why some people burn through a clutch. I never had an issue with my pedal height, but I hope those who did adjust their pedal don't have any clutch wear issues.

i64X

If the clutch is fully disengaged when the pedal is on the floor, and fully engaged when the pedal is released, there's no way this is going to cause any pre-mature wear issues.

djoulez

Yes!!! Finally!

Coming from a background of BMW's. I spent so much effort hating the shifter feel and lengthy throws that I forgot to consider the pedal and engagement.


The TL in my opinion has a very high friction point. Where as I'm used to just lifting my foot a little bit and the car begins to grab.

The last post on here was from a few months ago. All those who've done this mod, only fantastic things to report??

Thanks!
-djoulez

liquidneon

Agreed - I've owned/driven numerous manual Acuras/Hondas... all have the friction point high. It's what I'm used to now. My sister's 335 was much lower (boy did I ever beat that thing up).

CerberusKy

iTrader: (1)

Makes a big difference, but still a little high for my liking.

djoulez

Hey cerberusky

how long have you running the car with the new pedal adjustments? I've been reading on some threads about the friction point being auto adjusting via the CDV I think and someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

I would love for the friction point to grab significantly closer to the floor board, but I'm hesitant to tinker with the pedal and move the friction point because I don't want the clutch to auto adjust on me to a point so low where i won't be able to disengage even with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

And with the winter coming up, I don't know if the freezing temperatures here in Chicago will cause additional auto adjustments of the friction point as well.

Have you seen any "auto adjustments" occur since your mod?
Thanks!
-djoulez

CerberusKy

iTrader: (1)

djoulez,
I have not noticed any "auto adjustments" since doing the mod. I think it has been well over a year now since I did this, an even though I would like the engagement point even lower, it is much better then when I first go the car. Give it a shot, it takes about 10 to 15 minutes to do, and you can always set it back if you don't like it.

djoulez

Just did this and it's incredible the window of customizability.

It truly feels like and probably is. My clutch pedal throw length feels like it's an inch and a half long

Mini step, click, click, mini step

CerberusKy

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Glad that it worked for you!

toddrhodes

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This also worked for me, though all I've been able to do is back it out of the garage and back in. Great post and write-up, thank you!

PS - yes this is my first post, just got her a few days ago

CerberusKy

iTrader: (1)

Hope you enjoy the new TL