rubypham

Anyone here do a valve adjustment to their 4G TL yet? just reached 100K and was looking to get the valve adjust but couldn't find in the forum any post about it. If someone could point me to the right direction that would be great.

Thanks in advance

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

do you want to perform it yourself?
or do you want to go and get it done?
basically, what is your question?

Hazsun

Do you really need to do it? You are almost at 105k service, ei. timing belt, water pump, etc. Maybe ask whoever is doing that major maintenance to do valve adjustment too?

Reorge

It's best to do the valve adjustment when you replace the spark plugs. You have to turn the engine and it's MUCH easier without plugs installed.
I won't be doing mine at 105k. I've done a handful of J engines and they didn't really need it and didn't reduce the valve noise even when set on tight side of specification.
There are several thread about this issue already in the forum.

rubypham

I want to do it myself, the car just got to 100K and this weekend im planning to change timing belt + waterpump and spark plugs so i figured it time for valve adjustment also

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

do you have the valve feeler guides?
purchase the feelers and the specs will be on the hood.

rubypham

I'm planning to change all that this weekend at the house, i did some research and people said it not necessary to do a valve adjustment.
But i just want some more opinions on this.

rubypham

my friends the the valve feeler, so i can borrow his.
and i saw somewhere that some valve need to be adjust while hot and some are cold it that true?
it will be my 1st time doing a valve adjustment so i just to get as much detail as possible don't want to mess up

rubypham

thanks for the information, i been searching around and i found like 2 post for valve adjustment.
can you please let me know where i can find those post at, would really appreciated. thanks

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

NO!
if you are tearing down the engine for timing belt install, how do you think you're going to warm up the car?
for valve adjustments; you should be doing it cold! as metal expands when HOT. and if you do it HOT, the valve values will be OFF
watch some youtube videos because you dont sound confident AT ALL

rubypham

yes i understand that, but i saw somewhere that what it said so i just wanted to make sure, because it didn't sound right thats y im asking.
i been looking for any valve adjustment of the jseries and just haven't seen any specifically for acura tl 4g

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...lve+adjustment

Reorge

- Its recommended that you replace the valve cover and sparkplug tube gaskets.
Reinstalling the valve cover is a pain. The sparkplug tube gaskets have to be expanded individually to fit over the tubes.
- The upper intake manifold had to be removed but I've been able to just move the manifold out the way (rearward and forward) while the throttle body is still connected.
- I think the upper manifold gasket can be reused but I replaced it just to be sure. Its a MLS (multi layered steel) type.
- All adjustments MUST (as previously stated) be preformed while engine is cold.

Reorge

Fel-Pro has gasket kits for the valve adjustment procedure.

These are the ones for my car.
Valve cover and sparkplug tubes: $28 More Information for FEL-PRO VS50773R
Upper intake, throttle body, air chamber, etc.: $31 More Information for FEL-PRO VS50773R

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't bother unless it's REALLY noisy. The J series is already pretty clattery. I did it to my old TL and it made no difference. I did it to my Pilot, which has quite a bit of valve train noise, and it didn't help. I'm going to have to have that looked at since it's got to be something else causing the noise. It's a pretty loud metalling tapping noise. Much more than the normal clatter.

Teddybear

I'm gonna bump this.

I recently had the new pistons and rings done under the extended warranty. The tech also noted pitting on the front bank cam shaft, so he replaced that under warranty and did a valve adjustment. I got the car back and noted that there's a lot of ticking. I suspect it's from the rear bank. I took it back to the dealer, and they adjusted the rear bank valves (or so they say they did). After driving for 1000KM the tick came back after i did an oil change. and now it's much louder. I took it back to the dealer and the tech said that the J37 is very finicky and from his experience, if the valves are even slightly too tight, they will throw a code. I can hear it all the way to 4000rpm while driving with the radio off and windows up. TL's at 220k KM, and never had a valve adjustment until this.

How loud is unacceptable (i understand that's subjective)?
Does valve ticking lead to other issues?
Is the tech speaking the truth when he said that the J37 is extra sensitive to valve tolerance and throwing a code?
Is it worth it for me to just get both banks readjusted? Should i just replace the valve springs while i'm at it? or even the rear camshaft?

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

I'll throw in my but I'm not an expert so take it as it is.

I've never known the ticking to cause other problems. As I mentioned in this very thread two years ago now, my wife's Pilot makes the loudest ticking of the three vehicles I've owned with this Honda V6 and it's still making it with no other side effects. So regardless of what exactly is causing it, it doesn't seem to cause adverse problems. I've done another valve adjustment on it since then BTW and it didn't change much at all.

Can't speak much to the J37. However, the only way I can see a valve clearance issue throwing a code is if it were too tight. If the valves were too tight, it could result in misfires due to poor compression. The valve wouldn't seat on the cylinder head correctly and you'd have the fuel/air mixture exiting the valves during the compression cycle. Too loose of valves, as far as I can tell, would result in the valves not opening as far as they might be able to if they were adjusted correctly. That may lead to less power due to increased restriction of air in and out of the cylinder but I don't see how it would throw a code unless it was super severe.

Noisy valves, at least when it's due to adjustment, is normally due to loose valves from what I understand. The rocker arm and valve have too much clearance, resulting in more of a tapping sound when they contact. Tight valves often have little to no clearance so they're not really noisy. Although I'm sure some wacky noises would result if they were excessively tight but from other problems.....

I definitely don't want to make a call on that. Post a video and you might get some opinions.

vertigo2

Almost seems like they're putting in a heavier-weight oil to quiet down the ticking and when you change that out for the proper 5W20 it reappears.

Teddybear

Thanks!! I took a vid just now. i'll post it later.

That's what i suspected as well, but the oil in there from the piston job at first was 0w20, I put in 5w30... so unless they dumped in a very heavy oil thickener... hard to say..... And to be fair, they were REALLY nice about the pistons+rings job. They didn't try to blame consumption on my leaking oil pump seal, or try to charge me for worn cam shaft.

Teddybear

Here's the vid:

ryuflatron

Same here with my 2009 TL FWD. I brought it to Honda Tech, they said it’s “normal”

vertigo2

Mine sounds exactly the same and I haven't had the rebuild done yet. If this is normal for a $56,000 car (CAD $) that's only 7 years old, this is my last Acura.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

That definitely ain't no sewing machine but it's not extreme either. I don't think I'd consider that to be harmful. My wife's Pilot is far worse. I've walked past, or had my windows down near MDX's and other Acura's/Honda's with this J engine and heard plenty of clickity clackity just like that. Not ideal but not dangerous IMO.

How does it sound with the hood closed?

Teddybear

I can hear the ticking inside while driving with the windows closed, radio off, to about 4000rpm. I haven't taken it too far past 4000rpm since the rebuild still.