jim_c

Well, just on principle, I hate to agree with Edward, lol, but I am totally biased and closed minded about which cars I will own. I will not buy anything except a Toyota or a Honda product and I have done that since 1986. Call me a stubborn old fart and I will agree. I am not saying they are perfect, not by a long shot. I like to drive other vehicles but I don't want to own them.

lift3d_

i think that's applying practical principles to a major investment (if you even dare call it that!), not being stubborn. if everyone operated like this, I'm confidant most luxury car brands would not exist in today's day and age. Cars are a form of expression for many people, and it's easy to dance on either side of the line of practicality when it comes down to form over function. while I am young and haven't owned as many vehicles as most people have, i don't think it's a hard line to find....people who bitch about unreliable german vehicles really need to give their heads a shake and understand that it is what they signed up for. some of the most beautiful women in hollywood require the most about of work to make themselves presentable...but then you see the outcome and understand why.

sorry for the rant, been drinking.

echodigital

Can you bring in a car to have a dealer check TC?

jim_c

Yes, there is a routine where they hook up to the car's power train computer and road test the car. But if you have no obvious symptoms there is no real need to do so.

Bobby39

I have 2012 AWD tl that I just purchased, how can I check if the software update was done? I've been having issues with gear changes as well, especially from 1st to 2nd, and makes the whole car jerk. Not sure if this is normal. Thanks

Strosek

No updates for the 2012 from what I understand...

My car did the same and if you reset the computers by disconnecting the battery overnight it may cure your problem.

I did the above to my car and its like I'm driving a new car now! Incredible improvement and smooth shifting up and down.

Good luck

Bobby39

Did you disconnect both battery wires? Or only the positive? And should I keep it unplugged all night or is few minutes good enough?

jim_c

When you disconnect a car battery you should always disconnect the ground wire first (negative terminal). This (safely) breaks the circuit so there will be no flow of electrical current in or out of the battery with the ground disconnected. You don't need to remove the connection at the positive terminal unless you are removing the battery. When you are installing a new battery you would connect the ground wire last.

Strosek

Fell free to remove either... I just removed the little cover over the positive post, grabbed a 10mm wrench and removed the lead. Just use a rag or something to make sure it's well clear of the post and not touching even lightly.
Removing the ground is safer but either will work fine. Just dont let your wrench touch any part of the body if you remove the positive as this will cause a short and the associated fun that goes along with that.

Also remember to have your radio code on hand in the morning... if your radio doesnt ask for it then the battery wasnt disconnected long enough for the capacitors inside the computer to discharge and you`ll have to start over and leave it disconnected longer next time.

The difference in my car was nothing short of amazing! I suspect the ecu stored some erroneous data that made a mess of things.

Good luck!

Tonyware

I doubt, based on experience that disconnecting the battery for a while will make any difference since the computer will eventually re-learn. When you disconnect the battery the data go back to their default values from the factory. As you drive, it adjusts the fuel maps etc etc. and eventually you go back to square one.

What I would suggest is to try filling up with no-ethanol gas. I have noticed on mine that up here in Canada, Shell 91 that has no ethanol, makes the engine run quieter and cooler. Instead of 84oC, highway speeds, with any other 91 gas, I see on my OBD reader 81oC, with the same ambient temperature of 25oC and 91 octane Shell. A cooler engine seems to minimize the torque converter issue when I drive the 2nd and 3rd drive cycle in the same day in the city at low speeds in 4th gear. Unfortunately Honda J engines are notorious for heat-soak all over. But somehow no-ethanol gas seems to keep the engine, and in effect the tranny oil cooler, so the tranny oil doesn't loose too much of its pressure properties that affect the torque converter's mechanisms.

Just my own observation. Would be nice if someone can recreate this no-ethanol scenario for their own torque converter at low (~40km/h) speeds in 4th gear and 2nd or 3rd drive cycle of the day. It may take you 2 fill ups to recreate this.

Ps. I believe this is a software issue, the car shouldn't drop to 4th at low speeds, don't bother changing torque converters. Honda hasn't got the software right, yet.

deano1122

Hello,

I recently purchases a very clean used 2012 TL with 43K miles. Beautiful car. Love the way it handles and plenty of power. However I did notice the rocking/hesitation under normal acceleration in second through fourth gear. Under very light acceleration I can hardly feel it and under hard acceleration I can also hardly feel it. I took it into the Acura dealer this morning and they also diagnosed it as a bad torque converter. He assured me that the only seal on the transmission that will be removed is the torque converter seal. It's about a 10 hour labor job to swap it out. He did indicate that this is a common problem with this transmission and that the new torque converter will have updated parts.

real_mckoy

correct me if im wrong but i read a thread on here that said acura extended the warranty from 60k to 100k due to the torque converter issue my question is is this all 4gen with and without torque converter issues and what part(s) warranty were extended is it the torque converter only or is it our overall powertrain which is both engine and tranny? thats my question

Osman.S

I just had my Torque Converter Changed at 149,000km under warranty, took 3 days got my car back. The issue has gotten worse. The car shifts smoother most likely due to a full fluid change but the rumbling/ grinding and hesitation at 40KMPH is even worse and louder then before. I have to reschedule an appointment and have the tech get in the car with me yet again to see what the heck is going on.

Tonyware

^my fellow Ottawan (lol), I still think this is a software issue and Honda/Acura didn't get it right yet.

Also based on experience for about 1 1/2 years now, I see that Shell 91 (no ethanol) helps reduce the heat, and somewhat minimize the grinding/rumbling at low speeds in 4th during the 2nd or 3rd drive cycle of the day.

No need to chase a ghost here. Its software related. Doubt that Honda/Acura will ever acknowledge or fix it. Its not a life threatening issue and its not an emissions class-action-law-suit triggering issue. So they won't bother.

Osman.S

Thanks for the response fellow Ottawan I figured it has always been software related. I use Petro 91 and 94.

vuongvan

I have the same issue with my 2011 TL.
They sent out a letter regarding the "Judder Noise" and suggested I bring in the car for a CPU update. I got the update and the noise was still happening. This typically happens in 4th gear going from 28mph-32 mph. The car vibrates and makes a noise. I drive it frequently where I can reproduce it. The dealer and mechanic said they drove around for half an hour and was able to finally reproduce it. They said it was quite a moderate "judder". Now they put in the order to get it replaced. I hope it hasn't produced more wear on the other parts (should that be of any concern?) They estimate it might take a day or two depending if they have the parts.

vuongvan

They gave me a 2012 TL as a loaner, and I also feel the same but more mild feeling on the 6th gear going apprx 45 mph.

e-meihofer

My 2012 TL not awd Torque converter failed. Marked shimmying and rough shifting. Waiting for part. Software upgrade little value.

tjackson8608

Hi everyone! im new here. I just bought a 2012 white Acura TL FWD tech package 32K miles in October and went in today to get the TC replaced. I went in a few weeks back and they gave me the software update but that only worked up until a few days ago. Experienced the jerking and rumbling at low speeds as evryone else. Tech told me that if the update didnt work then they will have to order a new TC. Dealer mentioned that this is a common thing. I didnt ask will the new TC be an updated part or not.. hopefully it is from what other posts I have seen in this thread. Anywho, ill keep you all posted on the outcome. I pick it up Monday or Tuesday they said. Will post pics soon as well.