I have been a long time TL "enthusiast", still have my 13 year old 2g TL.
Just traded in my V6 TSX for a SH-AWD TL with Tech. Color is Graphite Luster.

Here some pics with the Iphone I will be giving the car a full detail this weekend and will take better pics.
Today I removed the pinstripe and the side moldings on the doors. Removed excess glue with goo gone and washed the car with Chemical Guys Citrus wash.Then used Blackfire Polymer Spray Sealant for the time being.







After wash and pinstripe and side molding removal.








Goodbye TSX

 

Congrats and welcome to the family I love my TL, had a TSX (2009) prior to my TL and loved the I4 but this car with the SH-AWD is just in a league of its own. I know your TSX was the V6 but I think you will not regret the TL.

I think it wise to remove the pin stripe. I do like the BSM and would have been happy with them on but to each their own.

Any other mods like aero kit in the future?

 

Congrats and enjoy your Tl.

 

Congrats! My fav colour!

Why did you remove the side moldings? I was thinking of maybe adding them, but haven't because I worry they don't go with the flow of the car...

 

OG member... Congrats man, glad to see you sticking around.

 

Welcome and congrats on the new car

 

Congrats, she's a beauty.

 

Performance wise how do you find the TL stacks up against the V6 TSX?

 

Congrats on your new TL!

 

Congrats on your sweet ride! Nice choice~

 

Congrats! Looking good!

 

Love the color, congratulations. I'm sure the stealership don't have to detail the TSX since you kept it prestige condition.

 

Welcome to the 4g forum and congrats on your new ride!

 

Wreak >> I cant say for the FWD TL, but SH-AWD TL is miles ahead of V6 TSX. I had the V6 TSX as a loaned for a few days when my TL was in for some warranty work, and TSX felt a bit sluggish. Though I did get used to the TSX in a few minutes, but when I got back in my TL and drove it away, I had to adjust my peddle foot a little. To me, SH-AWD TL is faster and quicker than the V6 TSX.

Yeah, same here. I was thinking of adding the side molding too, but there is no way I will ever be adding the pin-strip on my TL...

Also, not to thread-jack, but did anyone here got the trunk drawer in the TL? I am seriously thinking about it, but want a second opinion. We all know how limited the trunk space is in TL, I just want to find out how much space the trunk drawer will take away.

Oh yeah... OP... sweet ride man.. I got the same color, but with Taupe interior. Love the Graphite Luster color...

 

Nice...another new 4G owner. Congrats! And I didn't know some came with pinstripes. Mine didn't. The TSX looks sad in the pic LOL!

 

The pinstripe was a dealer feature they did...not sure why, especially on a TL. No offense to those who has them, but that is so 80's!

 

Best of luck with your new TL..

 

That was nice TSX by the way.

 

Thanks, as of now, just the aero kit.

I removed it because I like the clean look of the panel, after I detail and polish it you will see what I mean

Defiantly OG, been here since I got my 2001 TL. You too had a 2g TL with a bad ass system, right.

Still letting the TL break in so cant really say. The V6 TSX was quick but handled like a boat.

I am sure they will manage to add swirls to the TSX before selling it. The manager was shocked how clean the car was.

I too am thinking about the trunk drawer, glad you brought it up.

Yea according to the sticker it was a $200 dealer add on. And my 2001 TL had one, my brother 2006 TSX, and my 2010 TSX had one too.

 

Congrats.....very nice ride. I just picked up a 2013 SH-AWD 6 M/T last week. After driving an 08 base TL and then an 11 base TL the difference is night and day. The car "looks the same" but drives soooooo much better with the SH-AWD. Throw in the 6 M/T and every time I drive it I can't top grinning. Really doubt you miss your TSX.

 

I didnt realize how bad the swirls where on this paint till I washed, decon, and clayed. For a brand new car it makes me question the dealerships wash techniques.

Well here is some pics of the exterior, I will get some good interior pics tomorrow.

Since I am moving back to FL soon I took most of my detail supplies back and used what I had here.

First I applied Blackfire Total Polish and Seal with green LC pad, then I applied a coat of Blackfire Wet Diamond. Let the car sit overnight and applied a coat of Blackfire BlackIce and managed to drop my jar of Blackice, and cracked the pot and lost a good chunk of it.

Wheels and tires cleaned with Blackfire Eclipse tire cleaner then the tires got 2 coats of the eclipse tire gel and wheels got Blackfire Crystal Seal.


Not the best shots, when I do a full correction ill get some good ones.





Still swirled but paint does a good job of hiding them.

 

Love the color, but that's because I am biased towards it. My paint was also kind of rough when I bought it. Its amazing how smooth the clay made it. If you don't get the aero kit (I am not a fan of it), get some splash guards. They are painted body color and have kept the side of my car much cleaner.

 

Paint indoors looks amazing after you worked on it! How pro are your detailing skills? Reason I ask is because I recently bought a bunch of stuff (porter cable, pads, paint correction supplies, polish, glaze, sealant, etc) and am planning on detailing my car. I have plenty of hand washing, waxing and claying experience but none with a DA polisher.

 

I would say my detail skills are on par with a pro. I picked up detailing as a hobby last year and learned it quickly.

Let me know everyhting you have, and I can tell you a efficient process.

Here some of the work I have done on my cars and family members cars.

https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/review-blackfire-blackice-884262/

https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/review-new-improved-dp-max-wax-884263/

https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/review-blackfire-rapidfire-875251/

https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/power-duragloss-501-a-874776/

https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/review-pinnacle-liquid-souver%E4n-new-rinsless-875250/

 

What size pads did you end up getting?
There are some areas on our 4G TL that the 5.5" or the 6" will not be very efficient. That curve above the door handle to be specific. I would recommend 3" pads in that area.

 

dnd2984.... quick question bro, when u use the machine to polish do u tape off certain areas?? like maybe the chrome around the TLs window?? thanks in advance

 

Only when I polish, because most of them stain trim. If I am waxing or applying sealant I don't.

 

I'll post that in a few or this afternoon. I got into it a year ago as well, but only recently started getting professional with my techniques and supplies.

I have a 3" and 5" backing plate, with 3" and 5.5" pads. I don't know how anal I'm gonig to be on my first attempt. I might avoid difficult areas such as the door handles, top of the doors and around where the chrome trim is on the roof; I'll most likely concentrate on the major panels such as the hood, roof, trunk, doors and bumpers.

I've watched a video and read that theres a ton of taping involved, which is really bothing me because it seems like a very tidious task. I want to do this right so can you tell me what are the must tape off areas? Where theres rubber trim (windows/sunroof), door handles, anything else?

Thanks dnd and C8N, I appreciate it!

 

Looks amazing! Love the color, my old TL was the same

 

If there is one area that is an absolute must... is the sunroof seal. I actually made the mistake and stained it with carnauba and I can't get it off with the cleaners that I have. I just apply dressing on it now to hide it.

The rubber on the top of the front windshield actually seemed to benefit from some wax. But don't take my word for it because my normal maintenance wax is Meg's ULW which does not stain trims.

I would also tape the badges on the trunk unless you are ready to break out the good old used tooth brush. I have seen some people actually take off the badges and re-apply them after they are done.

 

Yea man taping is tedious, this is what I do to make life a little easier.

Sunroof open it up a little. So one you dont hit the trim and two its now flat so you can place a bottle on it.

When polishing the pillars I will open the door so I dont hit the trim.

I am sure if I did this for a living I would use more tape but if you are careful you should be fine...

 

pro tips! Obvious but I didn't even consider doing either of those things. Anymore secrets? How would I know if my products can potentially stain rubber seals?

This is what I have for paint:

Chemical Guys Citrus Wash (to remove all waxes/sealants)
Griots clay bar
Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash
Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo + Chemical Guys GlossWorkz Hi-Foam (I'll use these together)
Chemical Guys paint Correction 1, 2 and 3
Poorboy's World Black Hole Show Glaze
Chemical Guys JetSeal 109 Sealant
Chemical Guys Extreme Depth Liquid wax

Porter Cable HD
3", 4" and 5.5" pads, different grades for different uses.

I'll be using the two bucket method for washing. Will 1st wash with citrus, clay bar, wash with pinnacle, then go to work polishing.

 

No problem, I am pretty careful but it can sometimes stain trim, if so I use this to get wax out of trim http://www.duragloss.com/Exterior-Cleaners/Wax-Eraser.

This is what I have for paint:

1. Chemical Guys Citrus Wash (to remove all waxes/sealants)
2. Griots clay bar
4. wash after polish to remove oils from polishing or you can rewash car traditional way Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash
Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo + Chemical Guys GlossWorkz Hi-Foam (I'll use these together)
3.start with the least aggressive first Chemical Guys paint Correction 1, 2 and 3
Poorboy's World Black Hole Show Glaze
5. Do 2 coats for a nice even coverage Chemical Guys JetSeal 109 Sealant
6. Chemical Guys Extreme Depth Liquid wax

Porter Cable HD
3", 4" and 5.5" pads, different grades for different uses.

I'll be using the two bucket method for washing. Will 1st wash with citrus, clay bar, wash with pinnacle, then go to work polishing.

 

Nice pickup, excellent cleanup!

 

Some updated pics.

https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-photograph-gallery-296/my-2013-glm-sh-awd-889194/

 

So after I clay bar I will wash, after that I will polish (paint correction), after that I will wash again?

I thought I'm am suppose to start with the most abrasive product first and work my way towards the finer ones?

Do I have to wipe the vehicle down after every step of paint correction? I'm going to be washing the car after I complete all three anyway or it doesnt matter?

Do I have to wipe the car down after the glaze and sealan steps?

Thanks!

 

Answered below, any more questions let me know man.

-Dhaval

 

I wanted to do opti cost (which I bought), but rather not attempt it with such a tall order on my plate already. I'm a little confused as to pad grades in conjunction with compounds grit level used for example, is it a given that im suppose to use a very abrasive pad with my most abrasive compound? Can I use a very fine compound with a medium abrasive pad?

 

Pad and product is a mix and match and will depend on the paint's "correctability" and the type of defects you want to get rid of. CBP is pretty soft but I have not used CG's products so I really cannot comment on that note.

However, when I am working on my car which is also CBP, for light swirls, a light polish like Ultimate Polish on a LC CCS orange pad does fine. For scratches I would go with a heavier compound like Ultimate Compound with LC CCS orange.

Remember that the level of cut you achieve can be controlled by the following factors.
1. Polish
2. Pad
3. Pressure
4. Number of passes
Its a mix and match to find the combination that works best on your paint.

If you use too heavy of a combo, it will leave damages of its own which can be cleared up with a follow up of a lighter combo. However, no need to do more work than necessary and waste clear coat so do a test spot first to find the right combination of products and apply that to the rest of the car.

You certainly can use a an abrasive pad with a light polish and vice versa but as mentioned, do a test spot and find the combo that works best. Detailing 101 is to go from the least aggressive and then move up so that you minimize the amount of clear coat you remove.

If I remember correctly, it's only recent that you picked up your car so I would like to assume the defects aren't too heavy. Go with a light polish and light cutting pad. Apply medium pressure on speed 5 on the PC and do about 4-5 section passes. See how that goes.

Also, get 10% IPA and softly wipe the area that you have worked on and inspect. I am recommending an IPA wipe down because the oil in some polishes can act as fillers and mask the defect. IPA will get rid of those oils from your paint. IPA can be abrasive so do soft wipes with a plush MF towel.

 

Hit 5k last night http://www.flickr.com/photos/97033171@N07/11470712113/http://www.flickr.com/photos/97033171@N07/11470712113/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/97033171@N07/, on Flickr