K&N air filter is out!!!
#2
Three Wheelin'
I've used K&N air filters in the past and I've seen no difference in performance as a result. Now, if you put in a K&N CAI system or aftermarket exhaust, that's a different story.
#3
When I had bought my wife's 09 Accord (the EX 4cyl), the K&N filter was the first thing I bought for the car. Then I posted pictures of it compared to the stock air filter (K&N is 1/2 as deep BTW) and how I put it in (took all of 5 seconds) and put it all on driveaccord.net. For days, there was a huge fight about whether or not it was a useless mod or if it did anything at all. I had everyone from "filter experts" to guys who have been using K&N since they had their first cars clamoring on and on about whether it was useful or not. One guy even went as far to say that he turned a vaccum on blow instead of suck, and blew a whole bunch of dust/sand at the stock filter and then at the K&N filter and said he saw "alot of the dust" coming through the other side of the K&N. I don't know how realistic his test is though. And that only proves that if you live in a sandy place like el paso, you should take caution (which I also lived in el paso and ran a K&N cone filter on my prelude with no problems, but he said that was different)
I can't tell you if it got more horsepower or if it got more fuel mileage, but the my only argument is K&N wouldn't be a huge commercial success if it wasn't for the products it made. So there has to be some benefit.
I can't tell you if it got more horsepower or if it got more fuel mileage, but the my only argument is K&N wouldn't be a huge commercial success if it wasn't for the products it made. So there has to be some benefit.
#5
I have used K&N air filters in the past and every single Used Oil Analysis I have done usually come with a high Silicon value(dirt). So I changed and tried various different air filters and the ones that I have found to be the best is actually Fram. I actually have consulted with a guy who reads used oil analysis for a living(Mr. Dyson) and he verified my claims and actually recommends Fram for honda motors, which according to him helps immensly with fuel dilution, an inherent problem with Honda motors. I really don't know how and why this works but then again I have not owned a honda motor for more than a year. I know that I will change to a Fram Filter at 15K miles and use a cheap Fram.
Now if you have a race car, which I have had many, a K&N filter is a wise decision as the extra air it allows really helps on the race course.
Now if you have a race car, which I have had many, a K&N filter is a wise decision as the extra air it allows really helps on the race course.
#6
Wow! What a confusing post you just did. I didn't know whether you were talking about a Fram Air Filter or a Fram Oil Filter half the time.
And fuel dilution? What the hell is that? That doesn't make sense, what is it being "diluted" with?
And I would also like to verify how Mr Dyson determines that a high amount of silica got into the engine's oil in the first place. If he suggests that "dirt" manages to squeeze through the piston rings or valve seals, then we should be seeing a worn out engine very very soon with K&N filters... and with tons of warranty claims that would ensue afterwards, it would put K&N out of business...
I would like for anyone that reads these comments to always remember that every side of an argument always has two sides of the story that are both true. Comments like dshahs420's are not set in stone, and for the record, neither are mine. But do not buy in to the notion that if you go out and put a K&N filter into your car that it will let in more dirt and there are no positives about it. What if you live in a midwestern city or large urban area? There aren't sandstorms that exist like out west or southwest, so an air filter will get dirty much less often than if you lived in those areas. Also, test results from one or even 10 oil analysis's don't cover the full spectrum of what all drivers go through.
And fuel dilution? What the hell is that? That doesn't make sense, what is it being "diluted" with?
And I would also like to verify how Mr Dyson determines that a high amount of silica got into the engine's oil in the first place. If he suggests that "dirt" manages to squeeze through the piston rings or valve seals, then we should be seeing a worn out engine very very soon with K&N filters... and with tons of warranty claims that would ensue afterwards, it would put K&N out of business...
I would like for anyone that reads these comments to always remember that every side of an argument always has two sides of the story that are both true. Comments like dshahs420's are not set in stone, and for the record, neither are mine. But do not buy in to the notion that if you go out and put a K&N filter into your car that it will let in more dirt and there are no positives about it. What if you live in a midwestern city or large urban area? There aren't sandstorms that exist like out west or southwest, so an air filter will get dirty much less often than if you lived in those areas. Also, test results from one or even 10 oil analysis's don't cover the full spectrum of what all drivers go through.
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#8
Wow! What a confusing post you just did. I didn't know whether you were talking about a Fram Air Filter or a Fram Oil Filter half the time.
And fuel dilution? What the hell is that? That doesn't make sense, what is it being "diluted" with?
And I would also like to verify how Mr Dyson determines that a high amount of silica got into the engine's oil in the first place. If he suggests that "dirt" manages to squeeze through the piston rings or valve seals, then we should be seeing a worn out engine very very soon with K&N filters... and with tons of warranty claims that would ensue afterwards, it would put K&N out of business...
I would like for anyone that reads these comments to always remember that every side of an argument always has two sides of the story that are both true. Comments like dshahs420's are not set in stone, and for the record, neither are mine. But do not buy in to the notion that if you go out and put a K&N filter into your car that it will let in more dirt and there are no positives about it. What if you live in a midwestern city or large urban area? There aren't sandstorms that exist like out west or southwest, so an air filter will get dirty much less often than if you lived in those areas. Also, test results from one or even 10 oil analysis's don't cover the full spectrum of what all drivers go through.
And fuel dilution? What the hell is that? That doesn't make sense, what is it being "diluted" with?
And I would also like to verify how Mr Dyson determines that a high amount of silica got into the engine's oil in the first place. If he suggests that "dirt" manages to squeeze through the piston rings or valve seals, then we should be seeing a worn out engine very very soon with K&N filters... and with tons of warranty claims that would ensue afterwards, it would put K&N out of business...
I would like for anyone that reads these comments to always remember that every side of an argument always has two sides of the story that are both true. Comments like dshahs420's are not set in stone, and for the record, neither are mine. But do not buy in to the notion that if you go out and put a K&N filter into your car that it will let in more dirt and there are no positives about it. What if you live in a midwestern city or large urban area? There aren't sandstorms that exist like out west or southwest, so an air filter will get dirty much less often than if you lived in those areas. Also, test results from one or even 10 oil analysis's don't cover the full spectrum of what all drivers go through.
1)Every Used Oil Analysis with a regular K&N filter showed high amount of Silicon which usually means more particles of dirt getting in. This does not necessarily mean that there is more wear on the engine because these particles may be small enough that it does not puncture the oil film to cause abrasive wear. My point was, I am not willing to take that chance.
a)When I changed to a OEM air filter, the silicon amount was dramatically decreased. The WEAR numbers were usually the same or a little lower than K&N filter. In the end, most people don't hang on to their cars to warranty worrying about K&N v/s OEM filter.
b)Personally I'd rather just use an OEM air filter and chuck it rather K&N filter and wash it. Best of both world to me.
c)In my track cars all I have used is K&N CAI's. It works well and this is all I'll use.
2)Mr. Dyson of www.dysonanalysis.com, has done enough oil analysis of honda motors that when he gives you your custom interpretations, it will dizzy your mind. He is worth every penny. In his trial and error with honda motors, he has found that when a Fram air filter is used in a honda motor, his oil analysis shows a very small amount of fuel found in the oil. When he used OEM air filter the fuel dilution in the oil increased dramatically. Increase fuel in oil and you deacrease flashpoint, viscosity and film strength which can all lead to sludge, metal to metal contact thus inability to protect as well. Now how he came with the conclusion as to Fram Air filter decreases fuel dilution, I have NO clue. I will take his word on this over anything you have to say. The END.
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GotSka81 (08-03-2013)
#9
You should ask him then. And I think that you mean increased fuel dilution in the oil increases flashpoint, not decreases it.
#10
As to flashpoint, I did mean decrease. When fuel dilutes oil it also shears it which increases the volatility of motor oil or in another term it vaporises quicker and can cause sludge. The optimum flashpoint is >255. If a oil has a flashpoint of 255 degrees then anything above 255 degrees the oil sees it will thicken and vaporize thus increasing its viscosity. Now if the same oil is contaminated with fuel, the fuel will shear(thin) the oil which in turn means that the oil no longer has the same film strength or viscosity and thus wont be able to tolerate even 255 degrees so now the flashpoint is reduced and oil will thicken at a much lower temprature. Summary higher the flashpoint usually means lower volatility. Same is true in the other direction too.
#11
6th Gear
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Soon to be El Paso, TX
Age: 53
Posts: 6
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#12
6th Gear
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Soon to be El Paso, TX
Age: 53
Posts: 6
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When I had bought my wife's 09 Accord (the EX 4cyl), the K&N filter was the first thing I bought for the car. Then I posted pictures of it compared to the stock air filter (K&N is 1/2 as deep BTW) and how I put it in (took all of 5 seconds) and put it all on driveaccord.net. For days, there was a huge fight about whether or not it was a useless mod or if it did anything at all. I had everyone from "filter experts" to guys who have been using K&N since they had their first cars clamoring on and on about whether it was useful or not. One guy even went as far to say that he turned a vaccum on blow instead of suck, and blew a whole bunch of dust/sand at the stock filter and then at the K&N filter and said he saw "alot of the dust" coming through the other side of the K&N. I don't know how realistic his test is though. And that only proves that if you live in a sandy place like el paso, you should take caution (which I also lived in el paso and ran a K&N cone filter on my prelude with no problems, but he said that was different)
I can't tell you if it got more horsepower or if it got more fuel mileage, but the my only argument is K&N wouldn't be a huge commercial success if it wasn't for the products it made. So there has to be some benefit.
I can't tell you if it got more horsepower or if it got more fuel mileage, but the my only argument is K&N wouldn't be a huge commercial success if it wasn't for the products it made. So there has to be some benefit.
I never thought of the sand and all that stuff, I am moving to El Paso in July.
#13
Can anyone else weigh in on this? I just put a K and N air filter in my 2011 tl. I feel like I have a little better throttle response but that could be in my head. Anyone else think its letting to much dirt through and damaging the engine? Thanks
#15
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (4)
I used to go with K&N. Not that I ever had a problem with them, but they are pricey and then the cleaning takes more time/money. Did some research and came to the conclusion of Fram. Seems to perform very well.
http://fram.com/FRAM_Extra_Guard_Air_Filter
http://fram.com/FRAM_Extra_Guard_Air_Filter
#16
WDP 4G
iTrader: (8)
I used to have a SRI but I got rid of it and am now using Purolator classic air filter. Thought about a K&N but seriously just by looking at the K&N its almost like having no filter. The height of the K&N's are half the size of the paper filters. I've also read that yes K&N has good flow but when it comes to filtering particles, not so great (which would seem obvious just by looking at the height difference compared to paper. Plus paper filters are like $20 at most. If they made K&N's the same height as paper I'd go for a K&N
#17
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
I don't really think going with the K&N is that bad for your car. I ran a CAI with a K&N on my old Accord V6 for over 100K Miles and never had any issues with the engine. As long as you clean and re-apply oil to the filter 1 or 2 times a year i think it'll be fine for the car.
Alot of guys on this forum have the Takeda SRI intake. While I'm not looking for more power, I'm looking to increase my average MPG, and it looks like this intake will do that. I ordered one today, I'll post what difference it made.
Alot of guys on this forum have the Takeda SRI intake. While I'm not looking for more power, I'm looking to increase my average MPG, and it looks like this intake will do that. I ordered one today, I'll post what difference it made.
Last edited by deuce415; 09-08-2011 at 06:45 PM.
#18
WDP 4G
iTrader: (8)
I don't really think going with the K&N is that bad for your car. I ran a CAI with a K&N on my old Accord V6 for over 100K Miles and never had any issues with the engine. As long as you clean and re-apply oil to the filter 1 or 2 times a year i think it'll be fine for the car.
#19
I used to go with K&N. Not that I ever had a problem with them, but they are pricey and then the cleaning takes more time/money. Did some research and came to the conclusion of Fram. Seems to perform very well.
http://fram.com/FRAM_Extra_Guard_Air_Filter
http://fram.com/FRAM_Extra_Guard_Air_Filter
#20
I used to have a SRI but I got rid of it and am now using Purolator classic air filter. Thought about a K&N but seriously just by looking at the K&N its almost like having no filter. The height of the K&N's are half the size of the paper filters. I've also read that yes K&N has good flow but when it comes to filtering particles, not so great (which would seem obvious just by looking at the height difference compared to paper. Plus paper filters are like $20 at most. If they made K&N's the same height as paper I'd go for a K&N
#21
Senior Moderator
if you put in a K7N drop in and remove the lower resonator and or add a straight pipe down towards the front bumper u will have something similar to the comptech ice box ... on stock 2nd gen tl/cl theses would show an 8 -12 hp increase
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