Exhaust Resonators Delete
If you're taking both out -- put a dynomax resonator back in. I believe that's what the 3rd gen guys do, and it sounds really nice.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fafzl...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAX8N...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fafzl...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAX8N...eature=related
Trending Topics
I really don’t feel any different other than the annoyance of the raspy sound lol. Really thinking of getting a dynomax or magnaflow resonator now, but not sure what would be the outcome. Anybody out there with a 4G resonators delete replaced with 1 dynomax or magnaflow resonator?
What a shame. The crush bent pipe probably killed any performance you had. The stock pipe was of way better quality (Stainless vs galv. or whatever that is), looked larger, and the resonators were probably flow through with virtually no restriction. What was your purpose of deleting the resonators? Certainly you must have read that the rasp will be imminent!
The raspy sound is getting on my nerve, so I made an order on Amazon yesterday for a Dynomax 24234 Ultra Flow Aluminized Steel 2 1/4" In/Out Muffler
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIR42C
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIR42C
Can someone tell me what brand is the OEM resonator? And size if possible. I'm wondering if replacing this (with a Magnaflow round) would be different. The G3 TLs are a bit different because it's a actual muffler there (if I understand it correctly).
Where as G4 guys only have room for a round resonator.
Where as G4 guys only have room for a round resonator.
Last edited by cabanalane; Feb 24, 2011 at 11:47 AM.
On the 3G side of the forum, the general consensus is that deleting both resonators and replacing with straight-pipe is too raspy.
The most popular combination when hacking the stock exhaust seems to be a mid-muffler (2nd resonator) delete and replacing the front resonator with a Dynomax or Magnaflow resonator. This combo sounds good but may have a little drone at high gear (5th) and low rpm (like constant 40 or 45 mph).
Adding an after-market J-Pipe improves the tone (a little deeper), removes most/all of the drone and adds some HP.
There are no expected change in HP when just a stock exhaust mod like this on the 3G.
You guys will have to experiment a little to find if 4G is different.
Here is the 3G thread. Summary in post #1 with collected vids, part numbers, pics, etc.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/removing-resonator-stock-exhaust-summary-post-1-1811-a-589747/
The most popular combination when hacking the stock exhaust seems to be a mid-muffler (2nd resonator) delete and replacing the front resonator with a Dynomax or Magnaflow resonator. This combo sounds good but may have a little drone at high gear (5th) and low rpm (like constant 40 or 45 mph).
Adding an after-market J-Pipe improves the tone (a little deeper), removes most/all of the drone and adds some HP.
There are no expected change in HP when just a stock exhaust mod like this on the 3G.
You guys will have to experiment a little to find if 4G is different.
Here is the 3G thread. Summary in post #1 with collected vids, part numbers, pics, etc.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/removing-resonator-stock-exhaust-summary-post-1-1811-a-589747/
On the 3G side of the forum, the general consensus is that deleting both resonators and replacing with straight-pipe is too raspy.
The most popular combination when hacking the stock exhaust seems to be a mid-muffler (2nd resonator) delete and replacing the front resonator with a Dynomax or Magnaflow resonator. This combo sounds good but may have a little drone at high gear (5th) and low rpm (like constant 40 or 45 mph).
Adding an after-market J-Pipe improves the tone (a little deeper), removes most/all of the drone and adds some HP.
There are no expected change in HP when just a stock exhaust mod like this on the 3G.
You guys will have to experiment a little to find if 4G is different.
Here is the 3G thread. Summary in post #1 with collected vids, part numbers, pics, etc.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589747
The most popular combination when hacking the stock exhaust seems to be a mid-muffler (2nd resonator) delete and replacing the front resonator with a Dynomax or Magnaflow resonator. This combo sounds good but may have a little drone at high gear (5th) and low rpm (like constant 40 or 45 mph).
Adding an after-market J-Pipe improves the tone (a little deeper), removes most/all of the drone and adds some HP.
There are no expected change in HP when just a stock exhaust mod like this on the 3G.
You guys will have to experiment a little to find if 4G is different.
Here is the 3G thread. Summary in post #1 with collected vids, part numbers, pics, etc.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589747
. I believe I installed it around 1,026 miles. Car is currently little over 2,000 miles and drone is still there. After I deleted both the resonators, the only sound that was good was at start up. After start up, it sounds very raspy as you can tell by the video
. Got my Dynomax today and will install this coming Sunday if it doesn’t rain
. When I installed the ATLP J-Pipe & Hi-Flow Cat, I definitely heard some drone
. I believe I installed it around 1,026 miles. Car is currently little over 2,000 miles and drone is still there. After I deleted both the resonators, the only sound that was good was at start up. After start up, it sounds very raspy as you can tell by the video
. Got my Dynomax today and will install this coming Sunday if it doesn’t rain
.
. I believe I installed it around 1,026 miles. Car is currently little over 2,000 miles and drone is still there. After I deleted both the resonators, the only sound that was good was at start up. After start up, it sounds very raspy as you can tell by the video
. Got my Dynomax today and will install this coming Sunday if it doesn’t rain
. FWIW - when I added the J-Pipe, alone, to the modded stock exhuast it helped the drone. No doubt. Later, when I added the test pipe, the drone returned.
Your experience is very similar (so far) to the 3G: No resonators is raspy and J-Pipe PLUS Test Pipe/Hi-Flow cat has some drone.
Curious to know how the Dynomax effects your current tone, if at all.
1st attempt: Removed both resonators and installed straight pipe.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAyRb7KDC-4
2nd attempt: Installed Dynomax 24234 Ultra Flow Aluminized Steel 2 1/4" In/Out Muffler, reinstalled original pipe, and straight pipe second resonator.







http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKjIym8LV90
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAyRb7KDC-4
2nd attempt: Installed Dynomax 24234 Ultra Flow Aluminized Steel 2 1/4" In/Out Muffler, reinstalled original pipe, and straight pipe second resonator.







http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKjIym8LV90
- 1st attempted $60 for parts and labor
- 2nd attempted $54.90 for Dynomax Resonator and $50.00 for labor
- Total cost for mod = $164.90
- $60 loss, but what is $60 when you’re riding a 30k car? It’s all good
.
Last edited by cybersonic; Feb 27, 2011 at 06:42 PM.
Straight pipe all the way back from J-pipe
[flash= http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcAND6EUT-c]width=425 height=350[/flash]
[flash= http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcAND6EUT-c]width=425 height=350[/flash]
Last edited by eazy; Feb 28, 2011 at 10:42 AM.
<object width="640" height="390"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/JcAND6EUT-c&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&version=3"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/JcAND6EUT-c&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></embed></object>
Straight pipe all the way back from J-pipe.
Straight pipe all the way back from J-pipe.
Two more questions:
1. Do you think you would have gotten the same result by removing this (2nd resonator) instead, and leave the 1st OEM one on?
2. I like to try this. But I'm afraid of the welding. See how the two pipes meet right at the can (on the right side). Was there a concern about welding a straight pipe there because it really is a joint weld.
1. Do you think you would have gotten the same result by removing this (2nd resonator) instead, and leave the 1st OEM one on?
2. I like to try this. But I'm afraid of the welding. See how the two pipes meet right at the can (on the right side). Was there a concern about welding a straight pipe there because it really is a joint weld.
Two more questions:
1. Do you think you would have gotten the same result by removing this (2nd resonator) instead, and leave the 1st OEM one on?
2. I like to try this. But I'm afraid of the welding. See how the two pipes meet right at the can (on the right side). Was there a concern about welding a straight pipe there because it really is a joint weld.
1. Do you think you would have gotten the same result by removing this (2nd resonator) instead, and leave the 1st OEM one on?
2. I like to try this. But I'm afraid of the welding. See how the two pipes meet right at the can (on the right side). Was there a concern about welding a straight pipe there because it really is a joint weld.
If you look at the 2nd attempt pictures, the joint weld was left untouched. I’m not a pro and still learning here, but I figure deleting both resonators would free up any restriction. That is what I did for the 1st attempt and resulted rasp sound.
You can delete the small (2nd resonator) and leave the 1st resonator OEM on first. See how you like the sound.
I'm not sure. I think there is high flow(one for each side) right before the tips but everything else is straight. I'm running ATLP J-pipe/race pipe/cat-back
Deleting the 3rd will not cause you oto fail smog check EXCEPT possibly a visual inspection.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DerrickW
3G TL Performance Parts & Modifications
9
Nov 15, 2015 05:52 PM
johnpancakes014
2G TL Performance Parts & Modifications
3
Sep 27, 2015 12:58 PM













