Dragstrip Times - ET/Trap/60?
#1
Dragstrip Times - ET/Trap/60?
Anyone taken their TLs to the track and gotten slips? I was debating on going Friday night just to see what it will do. Finding the time...that'll be the trick.
Fresh oil change - first since I've done all my bolt ons and the car feels much more fresh.
Letting the car shift in S mode, with all the traction control goodies on, a carseat in the back, full trunk, and a sub/amp, I'm hitting 100 from a non-squealing dig in ~14.5 max, closer to 14 flat.
Traction control/stability control and manual shifting should knock a few tenths to half a second off that.
Car gets to 90 in about 13 seconds with it shifting in S and all the safeties.
I weigh in at about 250 - so figuring it's about 4300lbs in motion.
If my math is correct - using 18% drivetrain-loss (estimate) - I SHOULD be able to run mid to high 13s manually shifting - MAYBE as well as a 13.5 with 100+ traps. 14.0 flat should definitely be attainable.
Same math says I'm making about 335-340 at the crank.
Most factory time review estimates on the AT SH-AWD car show high 14 times.
It's reasonable to say the bolt-ons should be good for taking it from a high 14 car to a mid to high 13 car.
....and the supercharger should bring it into the mid 12s that being the case....
Fresh oil change - first since I've done all my bolt ons and the car feels much more fresh.
Letting the car shift in S mode, with all the traction control goodies on, a carseat in the back, full trunk, and a sub/amp, I'm hitting 100 from a non-squealing dig in ~14.5 max, closer to 14 flat.
Traction control/stability control and manual shifting should knock a few tenths to half a second off that.
Car gets to 90 in about 13 seconds with it shifting in S and all the safeties.
I weigh in at about 250 - so figuring it's about 4300lbs in motion.
If my math is correct - using 18% drivetrain-loss (estimate) - I SHOULD be able to run mid to high 13s manually shifting - MAYBE as well as a 13.5 with 100+ traps. 14.0 flat should definitely be attainable.
Same math says I'm making about 335-340 at the crank.
Most factory time review estimates on the AT SH-AWD car show high 14 times.
It's reasonable to say the bolt-ons should be good for taking it from a high 14 car to a mid to high 13 car.
....and the supercharger should bring it into the mid 12s that being the case....
#2
Senior Moderator
Anyone taken their TLs to the track and gotten slips? I was debating on going Friday night just to see what it will do. Finding the time...that'll be the trick.
Fresh oil change - first since I've done all my bolt ons and the car feels much more fresh.
Letting the car shift in S mode, with all the traction control goodies on, a carseat in the back, full trunk, and a sub/amp, I'm hitting 100 from a non-squealing dig in ~14.5 max, closer to 14 flat.
Traction control/stability control and manual shifting should knock a few tenths to half a second off that.
Car gets to 90 in about 13 seconds with it shifting in S and all the safeties.
I weigh in at about 250 - so figuring it's about 4300lbs in motion.
If my math is correct - using 18% drivetrain-loss (estimate) - I SHOULD be able to run mid to high 13s manually shifting - MAYBE as well as a 13.5 with 100+ traps. 14.0 flat should definitely be attainable.
Same math says I'm making about 335-340 at the crank.
Most factory time review estimates on the AT SH-AWD car show high 14 times.
It's reasonable to say the bolt-ons should be good for taking it from a high 14 car to a mid to high 13 car.
....and the supercharger should bring it into the mid 12s that being the case....
Fresh oil change - first since I've done all my bolt ons and the car feels much more fresh.
Letting the car shift in S mode, with all the traction control goodies on, a carseat in the back, full trunk, and a sub/amp, I'm hitting 100 from a non-squealing dig in ~14.5 max, closer to 14 flat.
Traction control/stability control and manual shifting should knock a few tenths to half a second off that.
Car gets to 90 in about 13 seconds with it shifting in S and all the safeties.
I weigh in at about 250 - so figuring it's about 4300lbs in motion.
If my math is correct - using 18% drivetrain-loss (estimate) - I SHOULD be able to run mid to high 13s manually shifting - MAYBE as well as a 13.5 with 100+ traps. 14.0 flat should definitely be attainable.
Same math says I'm making about 335-340 at the crank.
Most factory time review estimates on the AT SH-AWD car show high 14 times.
It's reasonable to say the bolt-ons should be good for taking it from a high 14 car to a mid to high 13 car.
....and the supercharger should bring it into the mid 12s that being the case....
#4
Oh, I'm no stranger to the track. Every tenth is exponentially faster the quicker you get...
I think the car is at a minimum 14 flat fast - and potentially mid 13 fast.
Most recent car I've tracked was my S2K on spray. My 60' always sucked, but S2000 60' always suck. The AWD is a new element, where you might get out of the hole a bit more hustled and not have to trap 110 to hit mid 13s.
Mainly curious if anyone has done it, as I've never seen slips posted on here.
I think the car is at a minimum 14 flat fast - and potentially mid 13 fast.
Most recent car I've tracked was my S2K on spray. My 60' always sucked, but S2000 60' always suck. The AWD is a new element, where you might get out of the hole a bit more hustled and not have to trap 110 to hit mid 13s.
Mainly curious if anyone has done it, as I've never seen slips posted on here.
#5
6G TLX-S
Tire choice and tire pressure are two of the most important factors that determine the final dragstrip times.
Super sticky tires make a hell of a difference.
Super sticky tires make a hell of a difference.
#7
6G TLX-S
Most are still driving around town on the crappy stock A/S tires, but others have long since moved on to super sticky summer tires (not the treadless track tires).
There will be a big difference in real world performance numbers between the crappy A/S tires and the super sticky DOT-approved summer tires.
There will be a big difference in real world performance numbers between the crappy A/S tires and the super sticky DOT-approved summer tires.
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justnspace (06-15-2012)
#11
6G TLX-S
I had used Bridgestone RE-010R (same extreme performance category) in my 2G TL-S before, and it had unbelievable grip in the dry.
Let us know how well the Z1 sticks, after you have them on.
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justnspace (06-18-2012)
#13
#14
#15
Drifting
Damn... I need to get out of the east coast. Would need well over 1mm to get a house that came with that kind of garage space.
#16
Racer
subbed
I am interested in seeing the diff between having VSA on or off. When on I feel lots of power loss and with the other I dont have traction for maybe 2-3 seconds. I have a fwd tsx v6 so I am just curious as to how much power is being cut with the vsa
I am interested in seeing the diff between having VSA on or off. When on I feel lots of power loss and with the other I dont have traction for maybe 2-3 seconds. I have a fwd tsx v6 so I am just curious as to how much power is being cut with the vsa
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Misc-ura (06-19-2012)
#18
6G TLX-S
VSA/Traction-control only reduces/cuts engine power if it detects any driving wheel is spinning.
The amount of cut is purely depended on how good the tire traction is.
Therefore, less power will be cut if you're using good traction tires (a.k.a. super sticky summer tires in the dry) rather than the crappy OEM tires.
The amount of cut is purely depended on how good the tire traction is.
Therefore, less power will be cut if you're using good traction tires (a.k.a. super sticky summer tires in the dry) rather than the crappy OEM tires.
The following 2 users liked this post by Edward'TLS:
justnspace (06-19-2012),
Misc-ura (06-19-2012)
#20
6G TLX-S
The Z1 is gonna be awesome. Don't forget to give us a review later on.
#21
Racer
so in theory, a good wide sticky tire will prevent any power loss because of the VSA but also by that logic if you are running a sticky tire your car should launch with less wheel spin without VSA right? So basically if you want to run fast 1/4s run sticky tires.
#22
6G TLX-S
Everything has a delicate balance. You don't want the sticky tires too wide, because then they will bog down the engine during the initial launch for the auto tranny TL. This will end up with slower acceleration times.
Unless you have a 6MT TL, then you can rev up the rpm, and modulate the clutch to make sure that the rpm always stays high in the power band for the fastest time slip.
Unless you have a 6MT TL, then you can rev up the rpm, and modulate the clutch to make sure that the rpm always stays high in the power band for the fastest time slip.
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Misc-ura (06-20-2012)
#23
Your contact patch with the road is always the same relative surface area.
Wider tire = wide contact with shorter length, skinny tire = long contact with skinny width.
Width = good for initial grip / bad for long term resistance
Skinny = bad for initial grip / good for long term resistance
Width = better lateral traction
Skinny = less resistance
on straight line acceleration
You need the balance of enough power at the wheels that the traction benefit outweighs the increased resistance when going wider. Dropping 3/10 on your 60' with wider tires is more beneficial than the 2/10 you lose in resistance after you're at 120ft in most situations. Much more noticeable in 1/8th drags. In the 1/4 - gets trickier.
Wider tire = wide contact with shorter length, skinny tire = long contact with skinny width.
Width = good for initial grip / bad for long term resistance
Skinny = bad for initial grip / good for long term resistance
Width = better lateral traction
Skinny = less resistance
on straight line acceleration
You need the balance of enough power at the wheels that the traction benefit outweighs the increased resistance when going wider. Dropping 3/10 on your 60' with wider tires is more beneficial than the 2/10 you lose in resistance after you're at 120ft in most situations. Much more noticeable in 1/8th drags. In the 1/4 - gets trickier.
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justnspace (06-21-2012)
#24
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
GREAT sticky summer tire.
when I first mounted them, I literally had no torque steer. I have them in 255/40/17.
couple this tire with a thicker RSB, and she drives like a dream!
As i'm getting down to the NT05s last leg, I'm getting torque steer out the ass! also, on hard launches, i'm getting wheel hop. WHICH IS BAD!!!! lol
with the wide 255 tires and VSA on, I can tell it still cuts power off the line.
Feathering the skinny pedal is the only way to get a good launch with the FWD cars.
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Misc-ura (06-21-2012)
#25
Racer
Very informative posts on this thread!
I wanted to run a 19x9.5 +22 wheel set up and honestly run any summer tire(thought about toyos) that would fit and still allow me to do u-turns. I am now getting the impression this would be too wide if I wanted to take my car to the strip. Of course when I am done with my baby I plan for her to be around if not hopefully over the 300whp mark(I am a dreamer). My friend who use to race his ap1 chassis s2k(fully bolted on and tuned to rev to 11000) constantly keeps telling me that if I am going to have so much power to run something very wide. He also had a kswap eg back in the day but it was manual so I don't think he realizes that my auto would bog off the line. Since you guys actually deal with virtually the same drive train set up as me what would u recommend for track and strip duty as far as width. I actually used to search function before asking and I found nothing really related to ppl with autos only those with 6 speeds.
I wanted to run a 19x9.5 +22 wheel set up and honestly run any summer tire(thought about toyos) that would fit and still allow me to do u-turns. I am now getting the impression this would be too wide if I wanted to take my car to the strip. Of course when I am done with my baby I plan for her to be around if not hopefully over the 300whp mark(I am a dreamer). My friend who use to race his ap1 chassis s2k(fully bolted on and tuned to rev to 11000) constantly keeps telling me that if I am going to have so much power to run something very wide. He also had a kswap eg back in the day but it was manual so I don't think he realizes that my auto would bog off the line. Since you guys actually deal with virtually the same drive train set up as me what would u recommend for track and strip duty as far as width. I actually used to search function before asking and I found nothing really related to ppl with autos only those with 6 speeds.
#26
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
At some point I WILL take my car to the track. I've only been once and it was in a 15 second car...so I'm dying to go back. The thing that sucks is the track that's closest to me is only 1/8 mile, while the 1/4 mile track is 35-45 minutes away. I strongly prefer the 1/4 mile track though so the drive will be worth it.
When that day comes, whenever it may be, I'll post up the results. My brother and a guy I work with both have 5.0's so I'm sure I could get them to join me.
When that day comes, whenever it may be, I'll post up the results. My brother and a guy I work with both have 5.0's so I'm sure I could get them to join me.
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justnspace (07-24-2012)
#31
Truth. Especially in the auto.
I took my bone stock 2012 6 speed AWD and ran a 14.3/.4 repeatedly at 97 mph with a 2.1 60'. I actually found that the stickiness of the track combined with the factory rev limiter wouldn't let me get off the line as hard as I wanted to. It would launch and slightly bog every time. If I could have spun it up to 5500-6000rpm and slipped the clutch, my time probably been a few tenths quicker.
I used to have a modded EVO and a 1st gen DSM so AWD launches are nothing new to me.
I took my bone stock 2012 6 speed AWD and ran a 14.3/.4 repeatedly at 97 mph with a 2.1 60'. I actually found that the stickiness of the track combined with the factory rev limiter wouldn't let me get off the line as hard as I wanted to. It would launch and slightly bog every time. If I could have spun it up to 5500-6000rpm and slipped the clutch, my time probably been a few tenths quicker.
I used to have a modded EVO and a 1st gen DSM so AWD launches are nothing new to me.
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