1” lowering on Acura TL SHAWD
#1
1” lowering on Acura TL SHAWD
Hello everyone, I have been searching for 1” lowering springs for my 2010 Acura TL SHAWD 6MT. It’s been an extensive search, and all that has come up is 1.75” plus drops. This is not optimal for my driving conditions, but neither is the height I’m riding at now with stock springs. If anyone knows the compatibility of what spring I could use or has one they have tried, please let me know.
#2
I think Tein H tech should meet your needs, no?
Now that I've tried answering your question....I'll risk sounding massively boring. When you lower a car, you really need to loosen all the pivoting bushings in the entire suspension, and then re-tighten them at your new ride height
Its going to be a bit difficult (but not impossible) to do that to the front LCA's fluid filled bushings. You have to somehow mark their new angle, then remove the arms, and then re-clock the front bushing. The subframe prevents you from doing it while the arm is installed.
Just a heads up on that. Again...I realize that was an extra boring peice of info.
Now that I've tried answering your question....I'll risk sounding massively boring. When you lower a car, you really need to loosen all the pivoting bushings in the entire suspension, and then re-tighten them at your new ride height
Its going to be a bit difficult (but not impossible) to do that to the front LCA's fluid filled bushings. You have to somehow mark their new angle, then remove the arms, and then re-clock the front bushing. The subframe prevents you from doing it while the arm is installed.
Just a heads up on that. Again...I realize that was an extra boring peice of info.
The following users liked this post:
altair47 (01-26-2023)
#3
I think Tein H tech should meet your needs, no?
Now that I've tried answering your question....I'll risk sounding massively boring. When you lower a car, you really need to loosen all the pivoting bushings in the entire suspension, and then re-tighten them at your new ride height
Its going to be a bit difficult (but not impossible) to do that to the front LCA's fluid filled bushings. You have to somehow mark their new angle, then remove the arms, and then re-clock the front bushing. The subframe prevents you from doing it while the arm is installed.
Just a heads up on that. Again...I realize that was an extra boring peice of info.
Now that I've tried answering your question....I'll risk sounding massively boring. When you lower a car, you really need to loosen all the pivoting bushings in the entire suspension, and then re-tighten them at your new ride height
Its going to be a bit difficult (but not impossible) to do that to the front LCA's fluid filled bushings. You have to somehow mark their new angle, then remove the arms, and then re-clock the front bushing. The subframe prevents you from doing it while the arm is installed.
Just a heads up on that. Again...I realize that was an extra boring peice of info.
The following users liked this post:
BROlando (01-26-2023)
#4
I think Tein H tech should meet your needs, no?
Now that I've tried answering your question....I'll risk sounding massively boring. When you lower a car, you really need to loosen all the pivoting bushings in the entire suspension, and then re-tighten them at your new ride height
Its going to be a bit difficult (but not impossible) to do that to the front LCA's fluid filled bushings. You have to somehow mark their new angle, then remove the arms, and then re-clock the front bushing. The subframe prevents you from doing it while the arm is installed.
Just a heads up on that. Again...I realize that was an extra boring peice of info.
Now that I've tried answering your question....I'll risk sounding massively boring. When you lower a car, you really need to loosen all the pivoting bushings in the entire suspension, and then re-tighten them at your new ride height
Its going to be a bit difficult (but not impossible) to do that to the front LCA's fluid filled bushings. You have to somehow mark their new angle, then remove the arms, and then re-clock the front bushing. The subframe prevents you from doing it while the arm is installed.
Just a heads up on that. Again...I realize that was an extra boring peice of info.
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#8
Here we go. What are you going to say now, dick? I'm pretty sure a large majority of people that want to lower their TLs don't want to not be able to go over speed bumps. They want the lowered look. Going from a 17" to a 19" or from 18" to 20" can have the same visual effect without compromising the suspension geometry and stressing components. Your speedo accuracy will be off, but better than dealing with alignment issues and premature wear of components.
If you don't have any constructive feedback, how about you put the phone down for a few days and find something else to take your anger out on. Sad life you must live.
If you don't have any constructive feedback, how about you put the phone down for a few days and find something else to take your anger out on. Sad life you must live.
Last edited by mossman77; 03-18-2023 at 05:30 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Frankyy (03-20-2023)
#9
Here we go. What are you going to say now, dick? I'm pretty sure a large majority of people that want to lower their TLs don't want to not be able to go over speed bumps. They want the lowered look. Going from a 17" to a 19" or from 18" to 20" can have the same visual effect without compromising the suspension geometry and stressing components. Your speedo accuracy will be off, but better than dealing with alignment issues and premature wear of components.
If you don't have any constructive feedback, how about you put the phone down for a few days and find something else to take your anger out on. Sad life you must live.
If you don't have any constructive feedback, how about you put the phone down for a few days and find something else to take your anger out on. Sad life you must live.
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