That looks awesome! I want one... Does it rattle the rear deck at all? Did you remove the factory sub as well?

 

Just ordered that box along with some HAT speakers, a JL 10W3, and a JL XD 500/3. Hoping to get it all installed ASAP, hopefully all goes well....

 

I have been eyeing this box for a while thinking of a 10w7 or a 12w7 with it U def post pic when u get it

 

Getting it all installed Wednesday. I'll post pics of the sub/box afterwards.

 

Sweet looking forward of the,

 

I went ahead and ordered this box I'm going with a 10w7 hopefully I can get it all done next month

 

Just picked up everything today. I was supposed to have it all installed today but, UPS didn't show up until 10:30 last night so I had to wait until this morning to go and pic everything up. All I can say is the box is a work of art. It's all fiberglass and the front where the port and sub go, is wood. I'm having everything installed tomorrow morning and hoping all goes well! I'll post pics of the sub once it's complete.

 

sweet man i ordered hd 750/1 and my 10w7 last night (was gonna wait a few weeks but i couldnt) now im trying to track down a good set of amp kit i want to get jl but the box builder recommend me a different set that he uses often i think it like $35 diff i might go for JL lol eventually imma replace my interior w/ C5 speakers along w/ a hd600/4 gotta save up some dough

 

Had everything installed today. At the moment, it sounds worse than the factory speakers did....very "bright" I guess I would say....overburdened by treble it seems. I'm getting an awful lot of feedback/buzzing when I'm idling as well which I assume is a bad ground. Even when I turn on my headlights, I get a humming coming through the speakers as the HIDS are warming up....that's really odd. Also, the balance is backwards. When I fade all the way to the RIGHT on the HU, it puts all the sound to the LEFT and vice versa. So, I'm going to have to bring it back tomorrow to get looked at. Could the fact that the balance is opposite have an effect on the sound of the speakers?

 

Here are some pics of the factory speakers and tweeters. I can't believe this is what they use from premium audio....those are small ass magnets....LOL

 

I'll get pics of the sub install and amp when it stops snowing!!! Just my luck, install a stereo one day......$%*& snow the next!!

 

u ever get the problem fix?

 

I brought my car back to the install place this morning. He fixed the right and left balance issue so it's back to normal now. He also added a some sort of ground loop something or other....can't think of what it's called at the moment. I still get the noise when I turn the headlights on but it's not as bad. I also still have a little bit of buzzing but it's not too bad either. I'm extremely picky/fussy about how things sound and it sounds much better than it did. I am going to have to increase the gain on the sub though cause it's not overly noticeable at the current level it was set at. Once it stops snowing I can do that too!

 

The magnet on the woofer is a neo magnet. They are all small.

 

I'm hoping to get more pics up as soon of my install

 

Great thread, making notes for my future stereo upgrade

 

It sounds like whoever installed it, botched it. I hope you didn't pay someone to install. BTW what did you install, and did you have the tech package before hand. Thanks, hope you fixed your problem by now

 

Hi Travis, what is the ported enclosure for the diamond audio tuned at?

 

Awesome job. He does great work. He did a custom bracket for my double din in my 2g CL

 

I see someone is up to the same old games. Why does this guy refuse to answer the most basic questions about his enclosures? Either he doesn't know or they're tuned very high. When the 3G guys started asking about airspace and tuning frequency he took his toys and went home.

"Built to the specs of the subwoofer" is a bunch of BS. Not giving a tuning frequency is like buying a new car that can either have a 4 cylinder or a V6 and the salesman saying he's not going to tell you what engine you're getting, just trust him, it's the best for your needs. I've never seen anyone not give the tuning frequency of their enclosures, this is almost weird.

And this whole thing about the customer listening to rock is also BS. A lower tuned sub will sound better on all music and it will be more versatile at the expense of a little SPL. I think the customer should have a say in what they want the tuning frequency to be or at least know what it is so they will know if it's somethin they want or not. It's as simple as adjusting the length or diameter of the port.

Looks like he's no longer a vendor anyway so disregard.

 

Good point. I would always discuss with client what their preferences were when it came to tuning box. Not the same as throwing a sub in a sealed box, although I liked sealed better..

 

And that price. LOL!!! Over $500 bucks for a fiberglass box....no way in hell.

 

Mine is custom made; on the passenger side so it does not block the emergency gas lid release.

Made to MY subwoofer specs and Hz required, with the correct size port for $350.

SQ is perfect and slams hard when i turn the gain up.

 

Is there ANYONE on this forum who did aftermarket upgrades for their ELS system and would like to share their story? The system sounded great for a minute but now it's falling apart and I need to upgrade... If I would've known how cheap in quality the ELS speakers were [Panasonic], I would've passed on the ELS tech upgrade and spent the money on aftermarket parts which would've sounded ALOT better...

 

Rip it all out and upgrade to quality speakers, amps, and wiring.

I dont see how owners think the ELS is so great??

 

That's because your are only thinking on an audiophile level. The average person that buys a luxury/sports car isn't buying it for the audio system. In fact, that may be one of the last things on their mind. For a stock system, it is pretty good. Not the best, but good enough for most people.

 

lovely nice location

 

Have you even attempted to do a search on this? There are many, many threads regarding aftermarket upgrades to the factory ELS system ... Brew has altered/modified his system at least 3 times if not more. Mine involved changing everything out after the H/U ... basing my system around the MS-8. The ELS is fine if you have a collection of DVD-A's, but is BOSE-ish in stock form.

 

i like the box off to the side, but i think im guna do a custom box for 2 12s up against the seat

 

Just replaced blown front passenger side speaker with JL TR components (very inexpensive). While I was at it, I also replaced the 3.5 inch speakers in the center and the 2 sides with JL CRs [again, very cheap). Although the replacement speakers were all 4 ohms vs the factory 2 ohms, the speakers, even with the same factory amp, REALLY sounds good! Now I just have to find time to do the rear deck. Not sure how I'm going to replace the sub. No one sells 8 inch free-airs that fits.

 

There's no such thing as a "free air" sub, just some that are labeled or marketed that way. Just about any sub that sounds good in a sealed box will sound even better free air. Look for one that will fit of course and look for one with the most xmax (stroke) you can get. I've run a lot of "box" subs free air and the results are always great. The JL 12W6 and 13W7, Tempest X, an old MTX, IDQ15, I've heard the IDMax12", Dyn Esotar 1200, Morel Ultimo, etc, etc. All sounded wonderful in free air.

With that said, you would be better off going with a larger sub or a pair of larger subs on a baffle behind the rear seat. The low end efficiency of free air or IB is awesome and the larger speakers will play the really low material, lower than most systems go, effortlessly while having great punch and "quickness". With my pair of 15s I was still able to fit two tires in my trunk to take to get them mounted and 3-4 large suitcases for a trip to the coast. Even with the large subs you lose very, very little trunk space. Maybe the equivalent of one of the side mounted enclosures but you get the advantages of the larger subs and the advantage of free air so you can go with a smaller amp.

Anyway, if you're stuck on sticking a sub in the stock hole, look for any sub designed for a sealed box and pick one with good xmax. You will want aftermarket amplification.

 

thats the best thing to do. i did it to my 2002TL 'Bose System':
http://nealgravatt.com/acura/index.htm

it was best to save up for the head until, amps, and speakers and then install them all at once. i left all the factory wiring in place so i could install the factory system. i also suggest that.

 

Anyone help me out with the plastic speaker cover rattling with the FACTORY SUB? i just bought it 8 days ago and should have the dealership fix it, but i gotta figure out how to take this car apart and this is where is start.

any help would be appreciated if you have had this issue or know a quick link. yes i have been search for a few hours now, so...

 

progress on sub rattle.

removed the rear trunk liner:
http://nealgravatt.com/acura/2013/tr...valpg20-68.jpg

i can press down on the plastic over the sub and the rattle stops.
i can also pull down on the sub and the rattle stops. need to tighten down the sub.
i guess i have to tighten the screws from the top?
i tried from the bottom and the lug nuts are welded to the frame:
http://nealgravatt.com/acura/2013/subnuts.jpg

so how to i remove the plastic cover over the sub to access the screws? pull from the top or push from the bottom? i see this plastic 'clips' by the sub i could push up?:
http://nealgravatt.com/acura/2013/bysub.jpg

thanks in advance.
trying to document steps for anyone else trying the same thing.

 

Remove and add a IB sub in trunk.

 

i will, again, but i my car is 9 days old and i need to buy the speaker, wires, amps, and box.

in the mean time i would like to fix current rattle.

thanks for you help.

 

Anyone know where to get these driver side sub enclosures? Seems the guy building on here may not be doing it anymore but not sure.