I'll be removing the stock subwoofer in my 2011 TL and installing a subwoofer and amp in the trunk. At this point, I'm considering a 10" JL Audio Powerwedge with TW1 sub (CS110LG-TW1-2) and the JX250/1 Amp. However, I don't want anything too loud that will drown out the factory speakers, so I'm wondering if I should go with an 8" microsub/enclosure. Is anyone running either of these subs that can comment?

 

every one's ears are different!
some can hear things others cannot and vice versa!
what I'm trying to get at is; subwoofers are completely subjective on how the listener hears it.

even if you had two exact same setups, some one will hear something different than you!

this is one of those mods that if it happens to drown out the stock speakers, it gives you justification on upgrading the front speakers!!

 

Anything that is using an aftermarket amplifier will overpower the stock speakers.

You can always turn down the gain on the subwoofer, so it is not too overwhelming of the other speakers.

Probably better off with a solid 8" sub rather than the 10". Less adjustments to be made, and the 8" will offer enough bass to sound better than stock, but not the only thing you hear.

 

I agree that a solid 8" sub is probably the way to go. Thanks.

JL customer service brought up an interesting point about the low-level signal fed to the factory amp. They said the signal may be constant voltage, in which case I wouldn't be able to use it to directly feed the JX250 amp. I always assumed the low-level signal was variable voltage, not variable current. Anyone know for sure what the TL uses? I could easily convert the variable current to a variable voltage, but I'd likely just use the factory subwoofer wires and high-level input on the JX250 instead. I'd imagine with strictly a subwoofer application that low-level vs. high-level wouldn't be as critical.

 

Just bought a JL Audio JX500/D amplifier (500W RMS into 2 ohms) and an 8" JL audio 8w3v3 subwoofer in ported enclosure. I'll post back with my impressions once I get everything hooked up.

 

I think what they meant is that the amp doesn't accept a balanced signal from your OEM head unit. It will still play but there will be significant noise as a result.

 

I asked for further clarification and he definitely meant that some amps have a fixed voltage input and the gain is adjusted inside the amp via a separate connection. I don't think our TLs are wired that way. Regardless, I'll likely end up re-routing the factory subwoofer wires to the high-level input on the JX500. The only other question I really have is whether it would be beneficial to use a line-level converter to attenuate the amplified signal and use the low-level RCA inputs on the JX500, or if I should just use the high level inputs and let the amp attenuate the signal. I'm leaning towards using the high level inputs because less components = less noise, less money, less wiring, etc, and I'd like to think the JX500 internal circuitry is superior to any external converter.

 

On second thought, I actually may use a line-out converter, because I just realized they make converters with remote turn-on. This would alleviate the need to run a separate wire to a switched 12V source.

 

Decided to try one of these: LC2i - AudioControl

This way I won't have to worry about a cheap passive converter attenuating or filtering any of the bass signal.

 

Good choice. That one is a winner for sure and has bass restoration for the roll off that is programed into the OEM system. Low level is always going to be superior in sound quality opposed to high level inputs even if it is used for bass only duties. Good luck with your install mang.

 

Good to hear. I'm going to be tearing into things next week once the weather clears up. I'll be doing the sheet metal TSB and dynamatting the rear deck at the same time. Sh@#, I may even dynamat the entire trunk while I'm at it.