jnc2000

Well, just finished up the deadening process of the TL. Wanted to hit the main areas. The main areas at first being the 4 doors, the trunk, the deck lid, under deck lid, and trunk lid as well as the interior door panels. Here are some pictures of the process. (My last TL deadening thread is here.)

First the naked door panel


Two coats of eDead 80 were applied on the outer door skin.





V4 applied to on top of the two coats of eDead 80 on the passenger side


Driver-side same two coats of eDead 80...


Rear driver-side with two coats of eDead 80


V4 applied to the rear driver-side door


Rear driver-side all sealed up


Rear passenger-side door after two coats of eDead 80 and starting with the v4


Rear passenger door sealed with eDead 80


I didn't take detailed pictures of every door and every step along the way, but rest assured every door was done the same way. Two coats of 80 on the outer skin topped with V4 then sealed with 80.

Here are picture of a door panel --- all of them were deadened with 80 and strategic placement of V4 where there might be plastic on plastic rubbing, or where I wanted to block of large areas.


The rear shelf got a treatment of V3 liquid, topped with eDead 80.


The trunk floor.


Strategic placement of piece of V4, couple coats of 80 top off the rear shelf to help mass load and help reverberations.



For the full photo gallery go here and view all the pictures:
http://jczechphotography.com/Cars/20...12398293_BLYhw

Impressions after deadening? Sickening lows. Reminds me of how a good IB install should sound. If you're familiar with IB installs you might mistakenly think this is a 10" driver. Deep Deep lows that'll vibrate your back, your review mirror and side mirrors. Kick drums that you can feel the impact, and crisp sharp double kicks that are dead on. Improved sound stage, and vastly reduced road noise. I can't get over what a night and day difference this is. For good measure through in a DVD-A or a live concert CD and it you'll sit back and go :wow:

SaNdSuKkA

Wow that's a lot of work. Looks like it paid off though.

Curious as to what the material cost and number of hours spent were?

jnc2000

It was WELL worth it. Total material cost was around $400. Total labor time was around 18 hours during a 3 day period.

The more and more time I spend listening to this now the happier I am... the little rattles are gone. The pings, and vibrations are gone even when the music is off. Overall the car is much more quite over rough and uneven pavement. I can't get over how much my HFL connection has improved as well.

Bottom line, lower noise floor = higher headroom.

skoobahead

Did you have to replace the *one time use* fasteners on the c pillars?
The shop manual also says to tap with mallet to release. Did you find that to be the case?

jnc2000

^^ yes, I should have taken a picture, it's a PITA. I didn't use a mallet, rather I used the KTC tools to release all the plastic fasteners first. I then used the palm of my hand to push up (pushed hard a couple of times) and it released.

Brew0360

Nice work. If you want even more of a acoustical difference, sound deaden the floor and start replacing the OEM speakers.

jnc2000

The floor's will be coming shortly. Waiting on a supply of more V4 deadener

Elemental Designs ran out...

I ran a PXE-H660 in my Ridgeline with the OEM nav setup and wasn't that impressed with the factory integration. Don't get me wrong, it sounded fantastic, but the feature I used, and loved the most (the HFL) had a very bad echo / feedback problem in part because of the PXE-H660. Right now I'm really happy with the stock speakers. One thing I might swap is the IB OEM 8 with an IB 10" from DLS.

Brew0360

Integration processors have come a long way since the H660. I sound deaden my TL back in Jan 2010 and stated with 2 cleansweeps and now use the JL MS-8. I made sure my system configuration was done so that I would no lose HFL and it works perfectly with no echo.

Kingmeow

Just curious, how heavy is this stuff?

Mr Marco

1 oz per dollar

SaVE YOUR MONEY

jnc2000

So positive Mr Marco... no wonder you're such a beacon of sunshine Thanks for the feedback guys!

myron

iTrader: (4)

so this edead stuff is good? I read some reviews about it and people were bitching about the edead 45 so I wanna kno w first hand from someone from acurazine if this edead 80 stuff is good. I wanna get some of it because they have free shipping to Canada and it's not costing me 5$/ sq.ft.

How much do you think I can cover with 50sq.ft. of this stuff? I wanna do the doors for sure and the rear deck. And the rest of the stuff probably in the trunk as I don't wanna rip out the carpets in the car and take seats out (front seats).

jnc2000

Get the 80 - it's doubly thick and butyl backed like the 45. You'll need twice the 45 to make up one layer of 80.

If you go two coats of 80 on your outer door skin, and seal up your door you'll be in for about 20sq ft per front door, and 15sq ft per rear door. I would HIGHLY recommend covering the 80 with the closed foam cell (the V4 as it's it'll make a dramatic difference in your road noise and noise floor.

eDead 80 - mass loader - for vibrations and rattles etc
eDead v4 - closed foam for increasing mid bass lowering road noise also works well on plastic on plastic rattles.

myron

iTrader: (4)

^ I am not interested in making the car completely sound proof like you, that's too much money for me. But thanks for the info

liquidneon

shit, this looks like a hell of a lot of work...
I just wanted to get some insulation/padding or something to get rid of a bid of the vibration for when playing songs with a lot of bass @ high volume... no easier way, huh?

csmeance

You can use dynamat in strategic areas to add mass to prevent rattles and vibrations. Also foam helps. Look at Second Skin Audio's Products too

workTL

AlphaDamp the entire car.

The roof is the biggest improvement.

csmeance

How much did you use to do your car? You said the roof was very noticeable and I'm looking to quiet down the TL a little bit. Any other area's with large improvements?