JMAL

Hey guys has anyone tried Alpine SWR-843D as a drop in replacement sub?

I have a Tech pkg, and the ELS system is generally great. I dont crank the bass, but sometimes it seems to bottom out.

I am looking for a drop in replacement for the stock 8" 2ohm unit.

This one is a 4 ohm dvc with a Qts = 0.55.

Thanks
J

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Read up on ohm's law....

Say the 2 ohm speaker is on a 40 watt poweramp

You increase the load to 4 ohms with the larger coil sub, then you're only going to get 20 watts to it.

Now if you ran a second sub in parallel with the first one, and it was 2 ohms, you'd effectively drop the load to 1 ohm and get 160 watts going to each.

(Don't count on the stock amp being 1 ohm stable; you'll blow the poweramp).

JMAL

its a Dual Voice Coil @ 4 ohms each = 2 ohms in parallel.... that matches the load of the stock speaker.

aweedman

If you make the change definitely let us know the result. The sub is definitely the weak part of the factory stereo system.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

And don't overload the amp with resistance; you will blow it.

dark_lunar

If you replaced the sub, then you should get the new amps as well.

dance2dp

I bought an 09 TL base model last month and wasn't happy with the sound. I wasn't sure what I was unhappy about. One sound shop recommended replacing everything with more expensive components. Second shop suggested adding a bigger sub and amp to give factory system more umph.

I went with option 2(less expensive): added a 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch sub and Alpine MPR-M500 mono amp. The guy tapped into the current sub for the audio signal, placed the amp behind rear driver side seat and box is in the trunk behind the passthrough door. Since the guy didn't remove any of the factory speakers, my warranty is still intact and just need to remove the box before going to the dealer.

The sound is amazing!! I guess all I needed was more bass. The factory 8" sub wasn't cutting it.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

All I did was add a 12" in the same fashion, and left the 8" hooked up for the higher range/mid bass.

You won't hear any mind-blowing difference in clarity (assuming none of your speakers are blown) unless with these higher end speakers you are putting adequate wattage to them. If the wattage/ohm needs of a desirable replacement are spot-on, I always reccomend with Honda/Acura vehicles because of the plastic speaker pockets they use, that you purchase ring adapters and a foam insulation pocket with any door speaker replacement. A sheet of dynomat for each door is also a huge difference maker in isolating vibration for more clarity at higher volumes. I've not had the doors on the 4g apart to see if the same plastic speaker pockets are in use.

Underdriving good speakers is as bad as overdriving cheap ones.

The leads for the subwoofer are easily accessed without even needing to remove the carpeting, to tap for a speaker to RCA converter, and they're on the correct subwoofer feed from the head unit already.

If you want to run your own sub - the power line can be run through the drivers side fender, peel back the fender liner from around the wheel, and follow the hood latch cable; there is nowhere else in the firewall I could find to easily get through.

Mproved

Any drop in solutions?

JMAL

I know its been a while but wanted to check in. After 3 years and about 30k miles, the els subwoofer seems to have finally broken in. It seems a lot smoother, and doesnt bottom out as much considering i have bass at +/- 1. It doesn't bother me as much anymore. Has anyone else had this feeling?