jim_c

Could someone please do a quick overview on how to change plugs on the TL V6? (Or is there one somewhere already you can refer me to?) I have done lots of plug changes but just want a quick description of the specifics on this car. Mine is a 2010 FWD. E.g. Can the rear plugs be done fairly easily from above? Looks like it. How much fiddling is needed with the covers and stuff that is in the way? Is it all pretty obvious or is there anything tricky? Thanks very much.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the front you will have no problem.

the rears are do-able, i suggest removing any thing in the way. (covers, shields, strut bar, push power steering hose to the aside, etc.)
if this isnt your first rodeo, then you will have no problems as its pretty easy


also, whats your mileage?
they arent due til 105k miles.



However; the 3.5's from other cars have problems with ejecting number 5 out of the cylinder as the heads are aluminum.
the 3rd gen TL's are prone to this, as well honda odyssey's
I suggest at least seeing if they are tight.
I wouldnt change them until 105k miles tho


Firewall
123
456
Radiator.


if you do change them out, take pics of the current ones to show us.

Mr Marco

Pics of ODO too...

BEAR-AvHistory

I would not do plugs unless you have a torque wrench. Aluminum heads are easy to strip the plug threads out of.

jim_c

Thanks for the comments. I was primarily asking about access and all the clutter that's in the way and how to deal with it. I have done lots of "tune-ups" in the past but I haven't done a transversely mounted V6. I have also built hundreds of automatic transmissions but haven't worked on many newer cars. My reason for doing this is to check the plugs but mostly to ensure that they don't seize in the block. The newer vehicles will easily go 6,8,10 years on the original plugs but then when it's time for removal there can be nasty surprises. I plan on keeping this car for a while. Sometimes with very old plugs the porcelain insulator will separate from the metal body. What works really well is to use this trick for reinstalling and getting the threads started properly: hold the plug by sticking the outer end into a 10" length of clean vinyl hose. This works way better than using a socket, to get the plug started threading. You simply turn the hose and twist the plug into the threads. You can't use enough force this way to damage anything and the plug won't fall out. After it's well started then you can tighten with a plug socket, extension and a 3/8" ratchet. It will be a while but I will post about it when I get around to doing this. My mileage is only 62,000 km (about 39,000 mi.) but the car will be 4 years old soon.

Mr Marco

40K miles? Time is valuable. Get out of the garage. Spend the afternoon with family and friends instead of changing perfectly good spark plugs.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

as noted; the J35 has aluminum heads and the plugs are prone to ejection.
its a good idea to check to see if they are indeed tight.