Regular brake maintenance
04-19-2017, 06:13 PM
#41
04-20-2017, 02:50 PM
#42
Just a quick note to make about honda pads. They upgraded the part numbers and obviously the pads themselves. Use to be 45022-sjc-a01 and now its 45022-sjc-a02 for the fronts and 43022-tk4-a01 instead of 43022-tk4-a00 for the rears. Not sure what the upgrade is all about since the original ones on the car were just fine. The only difference I see, when I looked at the ones a friend got (see pics below), is some funky double sims on the outer front pad. Also the new ones appear to be a bit more "rough" on the surface. Time will tell...
PS. by the way, we (i.e. TLs) share pads with the older Ridgeline. Surprisingly enough honda dealers sell them for a few bucks less.
PS. by the way, we (i.e. TLs) share pads with the older Ridgeline. Surprisingly enough honda dealers sell them for a few bucks less.
Last edited by Tonyware; 04-20-2017 at 02:52 PM.
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echodigital (03-21-2018)
05-29-2017, 12:00 PM
#43
Instructor
So do you guys buy Acura brand pads and rotors or do you go to a Honda dealership and get Honda brand?
I am about to replace all 4 of my rotors and pads not sure what to get, OEM (Acura), OEM (Honda) equivalent, or the Stoptech brake kit package.
I am about to replace all 4 of my rotors and pads not sure what to get, OEM (Acura), OEM (Honda) equivalent, or the Stoptech brake kit package.
05-29-2017, 01:03 PM
#44
Thanks for this, I didn't realize it used a drum type e-brake. Never done this style before should be interesting. When I replace my brakes I'm not going to go aftermarket as those fancy pads eat away at rotors quickly I find, at least that's what happened on my old accord.
05-29-2017, 07:01 PM
#45
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Good luck. Just take your time. After you're done you can test them by coasting to a stop and with hands off the steering wheel, car should stop straight and you should have no noise from the brakes.
Pedal may feel a bit soft for first couple stops but should be normal after that.
Pedal may feel a bit soft for first couple stops but should be normal after that.
08-02-2017, 11:51 PM
#46
Nice write up! I just replaced my front and rear brakes with StopTech rotos and Akebono pads. Whole job took about 8 hours because of all the freakin rust. If your going to do this job at home, I highly recommend a garage jack, jackstands, impact screwdriver, and a torque wrench. The jack and jackstands will give you piece of mind while your working on the brakes. Impact screwdriver for the notorious Honda Acura rotor screws (don't use a regular screwdriver because they will strip). Spray some PB on it and wack it with the impact driver and it will come out in less than 5 sec.
My rotors were super rusted on the front. I had to hammer out the rotors from behind as I spun it because the rust had surrounded the hub from behind. It had gotten loose but only would budge an inch out. This is because of the rust. (Rear rotors, make sure your e brake is off). Hammer the rotor from behind while covering it with a towel will help you from going deaf with the clanking. My rubber mallet was useless here, I used a three pound hammer.
Chris Fix on YouTube does a great tutorial on changing your rotors and pads.
My rotors were super rusted on the front. I had to hammer out the rotors from behind as I spun it because the rust had surrounded the hub from behind. It had gotten loose but only would budge an inch out. This is because of the rust. (Rear rotors, make sure your e brake is off). Hammer the rotor from behind while covering it with a towel will help you from going deaf with the clanking. My rubber mallet was useless here, I used a three pound hammer.
Chris Fix on YouTube does a great tutorial on changing your rotors and pads.
08-03-2017, 01:19 PM
#47
After the brake job, with the engine off, pump the brakes until it builds up pressure. then with foot on the pedal, start the car.
Pump the brakes to make sure you have normal pressure, and move slowly and test out the brakes.
Then, go out for a drive. Your pedal should not be softer than normal at any time.
08-04-2017, 07:23 AM
#48
Nice write up! I just replaced my front and rear brakes with StopTech rotos and Akebono pads. Whole job took about 8 hours because of all the freakin rust. If your going to do this job at home, I highly recommend a garage jack, jackstands, impact screwdriver, and a torque wrench. The jack and jackstands will give you piece of mind while your working on the brakes. Impact screwdriver for the notorious Honda Acura rotor screws (don't use a regular screwdriver because they will strip). Spray some PB on it and wack it with the impact driver and it will come out in less than 5 sec.
My rotors were super rusted on the front. I had to hammer out the rotors from behind as I spun it because the rust had surrounded the hub from behind. It had gotten loose but only would budge an inch out. This is because of the rust. (Rear rotors, make sure your e brake is off). Hammer the rotor from behind while covering it with a towel will help you from going deaf with the clanking. My rubber mallet was useless here, I used a three pound hammer.
Chris Fix on YouTube does a great tutorial on changing your rotors and pads.
My rotors were super rusted on the front. I had to hammer out the rotors from behind as I spun it because the rust had surrounded the hub from behind. It had gotten loose but only would budge an inch out. This is because of the rust. (Rear rotors, make sure your e brake is off). Hammer the rotor from behind while covering it with a towel will help you from going deaf with the clanking. My rubber mallet was useless here, I used a three pound hammer.
Chris Fix on YouTube does a great tutorial on changing your rotors and pads.
08-04-2017, 08:41 AM
#49
Drifting
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Thanks for the heads up on not using a hammer to remove rotors. I've used a rubber mallet in the past, with no ill effect, but will avoid that in the future.
You may want to add info about doing a brake fluid flush. I find that every car I buy used has super nasty brake fluid, especially if it's at 80K+ miles or so (which most of the cars I buy are). A brake fluid flush always seems to breathe new life into my braking system. Less spongy afterwards. I did it to my wife's '09 pilot about a month ago and she was shocked at the difference.
You may want to add info about doing a brake fluid flush. I find that every car I buy used has super nasty brake fluid, especially if it's at 80K+ miles or so (which most of the cars I buy are). A brake fluid flush always seems to breathe new life into my braking system. Less spongy afterwards. I did it to my wife's '09 pilot about a month ago and she was shocked at the difference.
03-16-2018, 09:18 PM
#50
This is out of order but you need to remove those little pita screws to get the rotors off. I have heard various explanations for why they are there but one thing no one mentions is that the rotors can only be installed in one position due to these screws. They are placed so you always get the holes in the rotor over the same studs when you install a rotor. Maybe Honda balances the hubs and the rotors? I don't really think that's it....... Anyway, you can use an impact driver like this if you are lucky enough to own one. Just give a rap with the hammer and the screw is loose. BUT that reminds me....NEVER use a hammer to whack away at your rotors or other brake parts. The sensors for the ABS and the VSA are in the hubs and they are expensive to replace!
If you have trouble removing a rotor, take your time. There are two threaded holes in each rotor and you can thread (metric) bolts through there to force the rotor off. When I got my (used) car it took me 2 hours to get the rotors off because they were rusted to the hubs. That was two years ago. Car was just over two years old. This spring I took them off again in seconds. After you clean the rotors and the hubs, rub a smear of anti seize compound around the surfaces where the hub and rotor are almost in contact. The hubs fit very tightly into the rotors. Anti seize is sometimes coppery or sometimes silvery but it's good stuff. Don't over-do it.
If you have trouble removing a rotor, take your time. There are two threaded holes in each rotor and you can thread (metric) bolts through there to force the rotor off. When I got my (used) car it took me 2 hours to get the rotors off because they were rusted to the hubs. That was two years ago. Car was just over two years old. This spring I took them off again in seconds. After you clean the rotors and the hubs, rub a smear of anti seize compound around the surfaces where the hub and rotor are almost in contact. The hubs fit very tightly into the rotors. Anti seize is sometimes coppery or sometimes silvery but it's good stuff. Don't over-do it.
My M12 fuel impact driver wouldn't remove the rotor screws even after soaking with kroil. I ended up drilling the screw head out (use a bit slightly smaller than the head of the screw and keep drilling until the head falls apart). With your advice, the first rotor took me 20 minutes and the second one took me 5. Beats the crap out of banging with a hammer potentially damaging sensors. I believe the bolt was an M8 coarse thread if memory serves me right.
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