theprez1980

Hey All -

I've decided to perform what the dealer suggested (and wanted $2800+ tax for to stop the oil seepage:

1) Oil Pump Reseal
2) Oil Pan Reseal

Of course, as part of this process I'm changing the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, associated o-rings on the oil pump and the front crankshaft seal.

All has been going well except..... I can't get the oil pan back on the block.... it was a lot of maneuvering to get it off to begin with as the oil pickup tube and the vehicle subframe gets in the way. In reviewing the service manual, it makes no reference to dropping the sub frame. Any ideas why I can't get the pan back on? Perhaps removing the motor mount as part of the timing belt removal process made the engine drop slightly? I didn't notice the engine drop at all when I removed it.

Also, when it comes time to press in the new crankshaft seal... do they go in dry or coat with oil?

Thanks all

csmeance

removing the side mount certainly will cause some drop, you should try to see if you can put it back on temporarily to get a little more clearance. Worst case you'll have to lower or remove the subframe

theprez1980

As a follow up to anyone else... putting the front left motor mount back did raise the engine but not enough to get the oil pan to slide over the plastic oil pickup tube. I had to loosen the passenger side front and rear frame supports along with the 2 middle bolts next to the strut to lower the subframe enough to get the oil pan back on.

jgalloway84

I had this same issue on my 2012 Acura TL SH-AWD. Naturally, the oil pump started leaking about a year after the timing belt job. Here are some tips I found helpful about the oil pan reseal. You will have clearance issues with the oil pan, so here is how I handled it without screwing with the subframe.

Removing the oil pan:

1. I bought an engine support bar from Harbor Freight for around $80. This allows you to support the engine safely and remove the oil pan. Do NOT try to go across the car on the fenders with the support bar. The fenders are not strong and you can see them flex and bend. What I did was put it on the passenger side strut mount and near the battery on the radiator support bracket.
2. Attach the chain to the hook on the passenger side rear until you have tension.
3. Unhook the passenger side upper mount (the engine support bar is now holding it up).
4. I raised the engine about 1/2" using the support bar, not too much.
5. You can now remove the oil pan, but you have to maneuver around the pick up tube. You should be able to get it off the car.
6. Tip - Practice maneuvering how to get the pan back on before you clean it up. You should start with the passenger side front of the pan and able to wiggle it back around the pickup tube.

When installing:

1. I cleaned up the block and pan with a loose utility knife blade, wire brush, and brake cleaner.
2. This part sucks because you have to be quick - I placed the bead of Hondabond on all sides except the passenger side. I placed the Hondabond on the passenger side directly to the block. Since the pickup tube hits a little when moving the pan, you don't have to worry about smearing the Hondabond on the pickup tube on that side.
3. Get all 18 bolts back in and torqued BEFORE you try and put in the four 17mm bolts.
4. Torque the four bolts to spec (54ft/lb I believe)
5. Back on top, lower the engine support back down until you can easily start the engine mount bolts by hand.
6. Tighten the passenger engine mount bolts to spec when it is back level and remove engine support.